How I Grow Unlimited Plants for My Food Forest

FFG - Food Forest Garden
177 followers
30 Video Views·Nov 24, 2025
Learn the five propagation methods I use to turn one plant into dozens and build a food forest without spending a fortune.
Once you’ve grown all these plants, how do you know where to actually plant them, and how to make them work together as a productive, low-maintenance food forest? Check out my guide “The One Guild Food Forest” here: https://www.theforestgardener.com/
Chapters:
00:44 - The Propagation Setup
01:16 - Plant Nursery Overview
02:30 - The Plant Factory Mindset
03:02 - The Mass-Production Factory
07:13 - The Copy-Paste Factory
12:03 - The Slice-and-Multiply Factory
17:22 - The Sucker Factory
21:33 - The Bend-and-Bury Factory
24:27 - Where to Place All These Plants?
This entire food forest started with a handful of seeds, a couple of cuttings and a picnic table.
And you know what's fun? Spending 50 euros on a single fruit tree and then realizing that you'll
need a hundred more just to start that food forest dream. And that was me in the beginning,
10 years ago. I was standing in the nursery holding one sad looking fruit tree in my hand,
doing the math in my head and then realizing that well there must be a better way.
Since then I've planted food forests in three different climates and in the last couple of
months we've planted over 500 different types of fruit trees, shrubs and support species
for a total cost of about 200 euros. Welcome to my highly curated ultra professional propagation
center. As you can see I've invested heavily into a somewhat wobbly picnic table that I built from
local wood, recycled trays and whatever that thing is. But here's the funny part. This little
table has already produced over a thousand different plants and in just a few months
from high quality fruit trees to support species to shrubs and everything in between.
So let's have a quick look in the nursery at what we've got growing right now.
This is our basic nursery setup and as you can see we have a whole bunch of different kind of
plants growing here, most of which will be planted in the upcoming weeks. So we've got
well a whole bunch of different things. We've got some nitrogen fixes, we've got some duquinas,
we've got some abyssias, here we have papaya, we've got some ginger, carob trees, loquats,
like there's a whole bunch like lots of palm trees over there because who doesn't love palms.
Here we've got some feijoas, we've got some bamboos, we've got tamarillo, avocados,
like there's a whole bunch of different things that are getting started in such a simple basic
setup that will then go into the food forest. Now is this the perfect setup? Not at all. Will
I upgrade it? Probably. But that's the point. You don't need much to start a lot of plants.
When we moved to this new location most of our time went into well getting the basics sorted and
still with a couple of hours a week this setup was enough to kickstart our new food forest.
And you can build something like this in an afternoon for well basically almost no cost.
All we need to start is are a few supplies and mostly plants. And every plant that you grow
create more of itself. In fact you can see every plant as a tiny factory and each one is built to
multiply life in its own way. Some create diversity through seeds, others make perfect
clones through cuttings. And I want to share the five simple methods that I use to grow a
near endless supply of plants without using a greenhouse and with a very basic setup and
without spending more than two hours a week. So let's start with the first one which is the
mass production factory. Nothing and I mean nothing gives you more diversity, more resilience and sheer
volume of plants for less money than a handful of seeds. Nature doesn't overthink it. She just
floods the ground with seeds and the strongest ones will take root and survive. It's efficient
and it's easily one of the fastest ways to fill your land with plants without emptying your wallet.
Every seed is a tiny experiment and each one carries a slightly different genetics. Some handle
the wind better, some fruit earlier, some taste amazing and some well compost happens.
That's nature's version of quality control and if you grow a fruit tree from a seed and you don't
love the results, well no problem. You can always graft onto that seedling later on and that's part
of the fun. These days I start almost everything from seeds, from nitrogen fixers to fruit trees,
from shrubs and herbs and even wild species I stumble upon. And half the time the seeds come
from something that I just ate. You can literally plant the seed from like for example a mango or a
local apple that we have here and you've got a whole new tree. The trick is you need to understand
what kind of seed that you're dealing with because not all of them wake up the same way. Some of the
seeds are well quite impatient and you just drop them in the soil and they're up in a week. Others
are a little bit more cautious and they need a what's called a winter before they trust the
world enough to sprout. The fancy term for that is called stratification. It just means like giving
the seeds a little bit of a cold nap before spring. And you can very easily fake winter by sealing
seeds in a damp paper towel inside a zip bag, stick it in the fridge for a few weeks and just wait.
When they start sprouting you can then plant them in a pot and grow them on from there. We've done
that with these apricot trees and even these comfrey plants. The method works perfectly for
temperate climate species like apples, pears and chestnuts. Some other species are the exact
opposite and they need more warmth and moisture to germinate. And that's called stratification.
And I do that for a lot of the nitrogen fixing trees like leukinas or acacias. And I just soak
the seeds in warm water for a couple of days until they swell up like little balloons. And after that
you just plant them into trays or pots and they will turn into new trees. Here's the main rule
to keep in mind. Don't overthink it. Seeds want to grow. That's their only job. Just give them
breathable soil, some moisture and a little bit of protection and most of them will surprise you.
Now sowing the seeds is actually really straightforward. Depending on the size of the
seeds I either use very large pots like what I do for these avocados or I just use these simple
seedling trays for smaller seeds. Which is what I've done for these sesbania trees
which are nitrogen fixing trees native to South America. And all you need to do is fill up
a couple of trays or some pots with some nice loose seed starting compost which you can make
yourself at home or you can just buy a couple of bags at the local agricultural store. And once
you filled up the tray you can then plant the seeds about twice its size in depth which is a
nice rule of thumb for how deep you should plant them. Then you water it. Make sure to label the tray
with the date and the species that you've planted and you're done. A couple of weeks later you'll
see green life start poking through and that's when you realize you can grow
literally hundreds of plants for the price of one store-bought tree. These leucaena seedlings came
from seed pods that I collected in a nearby park a couple of months ago. Literally a couple of
minutes of work, a little bit of compost and now they are ready to be transplanted in the food
forest. And I can start the next batch today if I want to. This is the beauty of the mass production
factory. Once you start doing this the diversity keeps exploding and the whole system compounds
year after year. And seeds keep things exciting because every new plant will be a surprise. But
sometimes you don't want surprises you want results. That's when I switch to the next factory.
Next up is a factory number two. It's the copy paste factory also known as propagating by
cuttings. If factory one was like chaos and diversity this one's precision and control and
this is where we clone success. Let's say you've got a rosemary that never dies or a fig tree that
fruits like it's trying to prove something. Instead of buying 10 more you can just make them yourself.
Cuttings let you duplicate plants that already thrive on your land and once you figure that out
every thriving plant becomes a gold mine or a plant mine. Yeah that's terrible. Let's move on.
Now to make cuttings work it all comes down to one thing. Timing. Cuttings change character
through seasons. In spring you can take softwood cuttings which are those new green fresh shoots
and they root fast but they dry out easily. Then by mid-summer you can take what is called semi
hardwood cuttings. This wood is a bit tougher they root a little bit slower but they are more
reliable. Then in winter when the plant goes dormant you can take what is called hardwood
cuttings from woody branches and this is nearly foolproof. You can literally make a cutting of
about 15 centimeters or like six inches stick them in the soil forget about them come a couple of
months later and most of them will have rooted. Seriously it can be that simple. Generally the
problem with cuttings well at least in like my case in the beginning where I killed most of my
cuttings is by simply trying to babysit them all the time and looking every other day to see whether
the cuttings have rooted yet. If you want to succeed with this method don't do that. A general
rule of thumb is that when the leaves stay green it is rooting and when you gently pull and feel
resistance that's when it's done and you can pot it up. But I have to warn you once you start doing
this propagation can become addictive and you will stop asking like how do I afford all these plants
and you start asking like where am I going to plant all of these. You can't say that I didn't
warn you. Now let me quickly give you an example of a plant that I have growing here in the food
forest. This plant right here goes by many names some people call it Mexican mint some others call
it Cuban oregano, Indian borage, basically it's an identity crisis with leaves. But it thrives here
it smells incredible it attracts a lot of bees and it gives endless biomass so let's clone it.
All I have to do is take a few softwood cuttings of about 15 centimeters each and when doing this
I want to make sure to cut the plant right below one of those leaf nodes which is the place where
it will send out most of its new roots. So it can be just as rough as this and I just literally cut
it under the leaf nodes and let's go and plant these right now to show you what I do from here.
Welcome back to the propagation center. Right now on these cuttings there are way too many leaves
and we want to strip most of them except for maybe like the top two. What this will do is
this will prevent the cuttings from losing too much water through evaporation. This way the
cutting will focus mostly on developing roots itself. So it can be just as rough as this
and once I've taken off the leaves I can quite literally up maybe just two on the top look
this is how it was before and this is how it is after and as you can see it's just below the last
root node on the bottom here and all I have to do right now is plant it in a simple pot it can be a
nursery tray can be anything can be directly in the ground sometimes and that's it. I've got a
new cutting and in a couple of weeks couple of months it will look like this. This is the same
exact species as the one that we just cut and this one's a couple of months old and as you can see
it's got these lovely roots going all over. It's time to plant these ones as they start to become
a little bit root bound well that's no problem whatsoever give it a quick prune but that's it.
The first few times that I tried it I messed it up by watering too much too much poking and like
too much checking and now I do the opposite. Once they are in I leave them alone and just make sure
that the soil stays moist. Cuttings often fail more from love than from neglect and that's the
copy paste factory. It's quick, it's easy, it's endlessly scalable and this is how you multiply
what already works on your land but sometimes instead of cloning success you just want instant
expansion and turn one plant into 10 today and that's where the next factory comes in. Now this
next one feels great the first time you do it because you don't need trays you don't need
cuttings and you don't even need seeds you just take a shovel split a plant in half and suddenly
you've got two. That's the slice and multiply factory or better known as propagation by
division. It's a really easy way of turning one plant into sometimes more than 10 plants.
There's no waiting weeks for roots to appear no wondering if it's going to take it's basically
instant results and I use this method all the time for plants that naturally grow in clumps like
this lemongrass or chives but also plants that produce offsets rhizome and bulbs like ginger
or comfrey. Basically anything that forms like a big root ball or keeps sending up new shoots
from the base can be divided and the beauty of division is that it helps you multiply plants
fast because one healthy mother plant can quickly become 10. Those 10 become a hundred next season
and before you know it you've got well enough species to fill every empty space in your food
forest and the process is quite straightforward. You want to use a plant that is well established
something that's already outgrown its space or started forming multiple clumps like this
lemongrass here. This was a small division when we planted it out some six months ago and it's
already grown enough to multiply it across the food forest. It's obviously a great use for cooking
it provides a ton of biomass and it's reducing the weed pressure around it quite significantly.
So let's propagate some more of this plant but first let's give it a quick haircut and take
about two thirds from the plant off which will help it establish faster once we start transplanting
it. All right that's what's left. Now I can come in with a shovel and I can go around the base of
the plant just to like loosen it a bit. If the soil is really compact you can give it a deep
watering before it'll make everything a little bit softer and easier to handle and you can do
this in two ways. You can either dig out the entire plant or you can loosen the soil around
the plant to kind of see where like the natural divisions are. Generally I find it easier just
to take out the entire plant and make some divisions, amend the hole a little bit and
then replant a division back into it. So let's do it. That's it. Now it's ready to be propagated.
So now that I have the entire clump out I can clearly see where the natural divisions are and
all I have to do now is either make a cut or just separate them from each other and you can be pretty
rough while doing this. So already got this one's already fell out of each other. As long as you
ensure that each of the divisions has some roots or at least a healthy shoot on it with some roots
that'll work. So basically it can be very rough and voila we've got a new lemongrass plant and all
I do is I can just rip them off some roots and another one and like this what started as one plant
turns very quickly into a whole bunch of new plants. All right so as you can see I've now
divided the plant and we had one main plant which was this one with the largest root set and right
now we've got one, two, three, fifteen, sixteen plants. So one plant just became sixteen plants and I just
have to transplant these now out into the food forest and then in a couple of
months time I will have sixteen plants like the one you just saw before and I can redo it again.
So all I need to do right now is I need to dig a little hole while this one was already here.
I amend it with a tiny bit of compost, dig it in there, put it in there, some of the native soil,
give it a good water and that's about it. I can use some of these leaves as mulch,
ferment a little bit and that's really all there is to it. Within a few days you'll see new shoots
popping up, within a few weeks it will look like it was never disturbed and within a few months
you will probably be dividing it again and that's how fast this method compounds. One plant becomes
10, 10 becomes 50 and suddenly you will start considering actually turning this into a side
business and start selling plants and that is how we propagate plants through divisions. But sometimes
some plants do the work for you and you just have to know when to step in and claim them.
Now this next one you don't even have to do much, you just let nature do what she already is doing
and you take the credit. This is the sucker factory and it's one of the lazy gardener's
best friends. Some plants, well many plants, naturally send up new shoots from their base.
Even a lot of fruiting trees and plants like figs, olives, mulberries, cherries and these bananas.
Basically they send up little clones of themselves nearby and once they're strong enough you can
dig them up and give them their own home. Free bonus plants growing around the originals. It's
nature's way of saying like hey I'm already multiplying whether you help me or not and
that's the beauty of it because you don't need any trays, you don't need any pots or any setup,
you just need to keep an eye out on when you're walking like through your garden because
once you start noticing suckers you'll see them basically everywhere. But the key with propagating
suckers is timing. You want to wait until the sucker has grown its own little root system.
Usually once it's about 20 to 40 centimeters tall and it looks like it can handle life on its own.
If it's too small and you try to remove it, it will die. If it's too big the roots can be tangled
too much with the mother plant and that can cause more harm than good. But once you get the timing
right this method is awesome because not only are you getting free plants that are identical to the
mother plant but if it's a really healthy plant they've already adapted to your soil and
they've proven that they can thrive where they are. So the odds of them thriving somewhere else on your
land are really high and the process to separate suckers without damaging the mother plant and give
them kind of like the best shot at survival once you move them is quite straightforward. So let me
show you how I do this because this is the kind of lazy gardening that I think that we all kind
of deserve. First you will need to spot a sucker and you can usually find them popping up right
next to the base of the parent plant or sometimes even a few meters away if it spreads through roots.
Once you've found a winner you can basically just grab a sharp shovel or a spade or a knife
and dig like a small circle around the sucker to loosen the soil and then slice down between it
and the main plant. The goal is to cut like the umbilical cord cleanly but without ripping
everything apart. So let's get this sucker out of the ground. There we go, there we go.
Up some roots fall off and there we have a brand new banana plant with roots still intact.
And this one I can transplant it and it becomes a new plant. So let's go and let's do that.
Once you have the sucker and the hole is ready it's just a matter of planting it
and watering them deeply and that's all they need to settle in. And that's all they need to settle
in. But don't forget about the one who did all the work. After removing the sucker I always backfill
the hole, give the mother plant a deep watering and maybe a little bit of light mulch. It helps
recover and she'll often reward you by sending up even more suckers next season. It's really one
of the easiest ways to propagate a ton of new plants in your food forest. But there's a one
more type of plant factory that's just as sneaky and it doesn't pop up next to the plant but it
literally grows from the branches themselves. You just have to bend it, bury it and let nature
handle the rest. So let's have a look into that one. Now this last one might just be one of the
forgiving ones because it's the most set and set it and forget it method that there is. And it's
called layering. But I like to call it the bend and bury factory. You literally bend a branch down
into the soil, cover most of it and just wait. That's it. Nature handles the rest. And when you come
back a few months later that buried section will have grown its own roots completely independent
from the parent plant. Then you just cut it free and boom you've got a new plant. Same genetics,
same resilience and already pre-adapted to your soil and microclimate. And you can use this method
with vines like kiwis, passion fruit, grapes and also blackberries. But you can do this with many
more species. Pretty much with anything that has flexible stems and likes to grow low or ramble.
That can be layered. And the best part is that you can do it while the plant is still producing.
You're not cutting it up, you're just borrowing like one of its arms for a few months. And you
can see this method in action often like what we have here with brambles. So this right here is a
bramble that I don't want to have that I send out a long primocane. Which is the name for the
arching shoot that the plants generally send out to expand their territory. It's a very vigorous
shoot from the mother plant, sent from the rootstock. And when this shoot eventually touches the soil
like it just did here, it will form new roots on the tip and it establishes a new plant. This
primocane then becomes a floricane from which new side shoots grow and produce a fruit. This is a
classical example of tip layering where the tip of a shoot forms new roots and becomes a new plant.
And there are tons of different layering methods that you can use from tip layering like this one.
But also air layering and trench layering and mound layering. All methods are quite straightforward
and allow you to propagate a ton of new plants that you can use elsewhere in the food forest
with not much effort. Now I'm not much of a big fan of propagating a bramble like this. And I have
several thornless varieties in the pots in the nursery that are ready to be transplanted. But
they don't have these long canes yet. So I can't really demonstrate of how to use this method with
those plants. But all in all this is a very straightforward method. You just literally
take a cane. It can be the shoot of a vine, of a grape or anything. You just dig a hole, you put
it in there, you put some soil on top of it, you put some weight on it. It could be a
peg, it could be a piece of a rock or whatever. And you just let it there. And that's all there is to it.
And then in a matter of time they will just pump out all these new roots. Which for this one I don't
like too much. And I will definitely remove it and replace it with something that I do like.
These are the five simple methods that I use to get a near unlimited supply of plants for my food
forest. And once you get the hang of it, you will never look at a plant the same way. For every plant
that you really enjoy and want more of, there is a method to multiply it. And in no time you will
have more plants than you know what to do with. But then once you start to stock up on some of
your favorite plants and you get a whole bunch of them, how do you turn all of these plants into a
thriving food forest one patch of land at a time? And that is what I will show you in this next
video. Thank you so much for watching. I hope you've enjoyed it and keep on propagating. See you next time!
