手工皮具免費圖紙 【手工DIY】🎒 卷口大背包 免費圖紙 | 手工皮具教學 | 手工興趣愛好DIY | 手工皮具網課 | 手工皮具

Hi, I'm Tanner Claredge from Claredge Leather and I'm from Summers, Montana and today I'm here to make a backpack So when I choose leather for a bag I like to choose leather that has a little bit of body kind of a medium tempered bag not too firm because in a flipped bag like this it'll be really difficult to flip at the end So I like to pick something in the 5 to 6 ounce range So I chose the Montana side here and this is Kodiak So two kind of two tones of leather that I thought went well together and then also for the straps I chose some 10 ounce It's about 10 ounce saddle skirting and chestnut I believe So that made Hopefully that'll make for some nice straps So then when I've figured out about where I want it to be I lay the pattern right on the hide and I like to put some weights of some sort like an anvil or some little something heavy on there to keep it from shifting around and then I use a little scratch awl something kind of sharp and I just trace around the perimeter of the bag and also mark all the holes that will be used for rivet holes things like that I also at that point if I have a location of something else a piece that will be laid on top in the assembly process I will mark that out as well I kind of do all the marking on the hide at once from the pattern that will save me from having to do it later on If the leather is too oily or if for some reason the scratch awl doesn't show up I use a marking pen or a ballpoint pen as long as I'm sure that won't show up in the final product So when I'm choosing where to cut out for the body of the bag that'll be the largest piece or the largest pieces in this case So I like to look toward the top of the hide toward the top of the back where the grain is usually tighter and I start there certainly for cutting the straps that makes for the best quality straps as well as for the large body of the bag I start near the top of the hide as you get down toward the belly the grain gets a little looser a lot of times the flesh side is a little softer and it's overall a little bit stretchier and that might be okay for some smaller pieces on the bag but for the big pieces I like to stay up toward the top So when I use the Tandy Pro Tool skiving knife it is kind of a Japanese style knife which I like to use for long straight cuts It works okay for making round cuts too if they're kind of a big radius but what I have learned is that your thumb goes right on top of the knife and kind of grip it like this and it's something that you pull toward yourself and I have been taught that the bevel actually goes in toward the finished side the finished piece so and it's designed to be held at a little bit of an angle so that the beveled side when your hand goes at a little bit of an angle the beveled side is vertical and that's a more ergonomical way to cut and so I like to use this on the long straight cuts of bags and also when you get to a corner where it meets another cut like at a perpendicular angle you can just drop the back edge of the knife and it will just chop you don't have to cut beyond the cut you can just lower it and cut right to an exact point so that's one reason I like to use this So I could have cut the one inch straps from one big long section but instead I just I didn't need very long straps so I cut them all out of a of a small little chunk So for cutting the straps or for cutting anything really after I've selected where I want it to be cut Lots of times it's easiest to approximate how much room you're going to need on the hide and then do what's called block cutting where you cut out just that chunk and you can roll up the rest of the big hide and put it away so there's less of the hide to manhandle and wrestle around as you're cutting It's pretty nice stuff And then I use the strap cutter after establishing one long straight edge by hand I use the strap cutter just to make some one inch straps and then one half inch strap And that was it And one thing I do to reduce the bulk of the straps as they go into the strap attachment panel is just to thin them down in a tapered fashion And here I use this splitter which is a tabletop splitter And I clamp down the end of the strap that I was going to insert into the attachment panel and just pulled it through and that thinned that down in a nice taper just so it's a little less bulk that's going to be riveted together there So for all the rivet holes I use a one eighth inch punch For the holes on the straps that will be used in the center bar buckles I think a three sixteenths works well A one eighth might work but three sixteenths gives you enough room so that you can easily put the strap in and attach it to the buckle I use the oblong hole punches for the places where the straps insert into the bag And they work really well If you'll notice some of the oblong holes on the bag are actually an inch and a quarter wide I believe And I don't have an inch and a quarter oblong punch but it's easy enough just to do two punches and move it over a little bit to make a slot that's inch and a quarter wide So after I get all the pieces cut out I look at which pieces need to have the edges finished And my process for finishing the edges After I've cut them if I need to true up any edges if the edge of a curve for example looks a little jagged I will take it to the drum sander or else just sand by hand just kind of smooth it out with sandpaper just to make sure that it looks like a nice smooth curve And then after that I will bevel all of those edges that will be exposed and that I want to look finished So I use the Tandy Pro size 1 edge beveler It's on the small end of the sizes that are available but it worked really well for this project And then after I've beveled all the edges I like to finish them with the edge finishing solution I put that on the edges with my finger carefully I want to be careful not to get it on the surface of the leather because it's hard to get off So it's good just to keep on the edge and keep a rag or something handy so you can wipe off the excess as you go And then after that I sometimes like to use a piece of canvas I used a cocobolo burnisher or a hardwood burnisher which worked really well And then also on the burnishing machine that works really well for the long straps just to run that through and do the long edges of the straps after I put the burnishing solution on For the buckle housing I need a way to install the 1 inch center bar buckles in the housing I decided to glue that in place So I used barge cement And just glued that in place And after I did those edges I wanted to look nice and flush So I took that whole piece on the sander And just sanded them up to make them look nice and true And then I actually ran the edge beveler around that And finished that edge after they were glued together So one tool that I found to be pretty helpful Really helpful in bag making Is the Tandy Pro NP4 skiving machine Which I have at home now and use it all the time And it's helpful just for skiving all the edges That will become part of a seam in the finished bag So that it reduces the bulk of those seams Where there are multiple layers of leather That are joined together And also where the edges are rolled over And sewn to make a finished edge I use the skiving machine to do that So in this bag All the vertical seams of the bag I skive them 3 eighths of an inch in So that was my seam allowance Actually the seam allowance was about a quarter of an inch But I skived 3 eighths of an inch in And then on the rolled edges Like on the top part of the bag I did a 1 inch rolled edge So I skived in 1 inch from the edge So I could roll that And that reduces the bulk Just allows that to fold over on the top And also where the panels overlap There are some big panels of the bag that overlap And they overlap by 3 quarters of an inch And so I skived 3 quarters of an inch Just on one of those So as they overlap There's just less bulk where they do overlap So after I have the edges skived I am ready to sew And before I sew I like to take some double-sided tape And apply it to the smaller pieces That are going to go on to the bigger piece And so the lash tabs Put a little 1 eighth inch wide double-sided tape And where I had marked on the leather itself The location for that Just apply it like a sticker And it stays in place well enough To not move while I sew it Here's a way to look cooler Taking the backing off Let me know I haven't found it yet I'm not very smooth at it I did that for the lash tabs And the strap attachment panel And so I sewed them on first And then after that Sew the rolled edges on top And then after that Join all the big panels together I used double-seam Or double-stitch rows everywhere It's kind of aesthetic But I think where those panels join together On the main body of the bag It's not a bad idea to have 2 rows of stitching I did 2 rows around the top On the rolled edge too Which is just for looks I think But That's why I did that So I really like to use copper rivets I think they look nice And they're very strong They're very versatile But I really like to Reinforce the backside of the rivets As they are on the backside of the leather Just to make sure that rivet head Is never going to pull through the leather Or at least really reduce the chances Especially on something like a handle of a tote bag I think there's You never know what's going to happen To that bag in the real world Those handles might get pulled In a way that you didn't really intend For But I think it should be built in such a way That it's strong enough to withstand that So one way to Assure that it's going to be as strong as can be Is to reinforce that By putting just an extra layer of leather On the backside Underneath the head of the rivet And then after that I did all the rivets I set all the rivets Because while it's all still flat Would be the easiest time to attach all the straps Using the copper rivets So I attached the straps The buckles and the buckle housings Everything is all sewn together And it has been assembled And the last thing I need to do Before I sew it into a bag A three-dimensional bag Is to attach everything All the straps and the buckle housings With copper rivets You could use brass rivets as well I have a few more holes to punch In the strap attachment panel Just so they go all the way through Into the inside of the bag And so those rivets I will put with the head of the rivet On the outside of the bag Just because it will be nicer Against the person's back When they're carrying it So I'll put that Through the outside of the bag And then through the strap And then into the inside of the bag And then on the inside of the bag I'll put that rivet washer And then the rivet burr And then I'll set all of those rivets So now that everything Has been attached to the bag One thing I wanted to do Is put some masking tape on the buckles Just so they don't scratch up the bag In the following processes Where I sew it And then flip it right side out So put some masking tape on there And then using binder clips I attach the long edges of the bag And this is all done inside out So all the straps and everything Are tucked inside the bag at this point And so I attach the long vertical edges Using binder clips And then on the sewing machine Sew a quarter inch in from the edge And I didn't use a roller attachment guide But I often do at home But I use my finger And I could pretty well gauge A quarter inch from the edge So that's what I did On the long vertical edges And then after those long vertical edges Were done All that was left to do Was then to sew along The bottom gusset of the bag And I clamped that Using a couple binder clips And then prior to doing that though You'll see that I cut out a little notch And that's just a way that I Make it easier to sew Over that vertical seam On the bottom gusset So I cut out a notch That's just beyond A quarter of an inch in from the edge And then I just sew right past it And then you'll see that I Double, I reinforce that With a couple extra stitches Right in the middle Just because I like to Reinforce things with extra stitches And then I go on And finish that bottom gusset And at that point All the sewing is done And the last thing I like to do Is at the very top corners Is to reinforce those top corners Of the vertical seams With copper rivets And that's just again Some reinforcement Just in case the top of that bag Is ever opened violently Or with some force you'd hate For the top edges of those seams To rip apart So a couple quick rivets Is an easy way to Reinforce that So as I flip the bag right side out It's kind of a slow process This bag is bigger And the leather is a little softer And more pliable So it actually flipped pretty easily But sometimes it takes a while And it's just a process of being patient You want to flip it from the From the outside You don't really want to reach in and pull it Definitely kind of want to push from the outside That's just a way to keep the leather A little bit nicer Just take your time And roll the top edge over And gently push the bottom through And eventually Hopefully it'll turn right side out And then you can kind of push the seams out And Just kind of make it look like a nice Nice bag Give it some form And some people like to take something like a Oh something hard like a The round end of a burnishing stick And run it along the seams Just to really help those seams Pop out where they ought to be But at that point All that's left to do is attach the straps And it's a bag So this is the roll top backpack we made It turned out really well So this pattern Is actually the first pattern that I designed In Illustrator So we made a PDF pattern Which is available on In the description below As well as on the website So be sure to check that out If you want to make this It's totally free It's fun It's kind of an extension of a tote bag So if you can make a tote bag Or if you ever wanted to learn That's a really good first step And that translates right into making this backpack So as complex as it looks Or as intimidating as it might seem It's really pretty simple Especially If you take it just one step at a time And hopefully the This video has been helpful for you in that way I'm Tanner Claridge And I'll see you next time