Mystras: final outpost of Byzantium

For a century, Mistras, or Mistra, was capital of the Despotate of Morea, an autonomous Byzantine principality that covered most of the Peloponnese. The despots were princes of the Palaeologan dynasty, often sons or brothers of the Emperor and Constantinople. As the Ottomans closed in, Mistras became one of the last beacons of Byzantine culture, famed for the skills of its court artists and scholars, including the Though never on the scale of Thessaloniki or Constantinople, Mistras was a substantial city with a population of more than 40,000. Byzantine rule survived until 1460, seven years after the fall of Constantinople. Thereafter, despite another brief era of prosperity under the Venetians, Mistras slowly declined, becoming a virtual ghost town by the its proximity to Sparta. Mistras has no ancient history. The first structure on the site was a castle built in 1249 by the Frankish prince William de Villardoyne. Most of the extant structures, however, were built under the Byzantine despots, beginning in the mid-14th century. Walls of that era divide Mistras into upper and lower towns. Most people lived in the Although most of the houses in Mistras are now very ruinous, seven Byzantine churches are still well-preserved. Let's climb up to see a few of those churches. That climb is not of the faint of heart, but the views aren't half bad. The Pantanasa Church, begun in the mid-14th century and renovated in the 15th, shows an interesting blend of Western and Byzantine influences. The middle register of the exterior had pointed Gothic arches, as does the Belfort. Just above, however, is the elaborate brickwork typical of late Byzantine churches. A better look at those Gothic arches. Let's go inside. I couldn't talk inside, but I'm sure the frescoes spoke for themselves. They're often described as among the finest products of late Byzantine art. Onward and upward. The huge monastic complex known as the Vrontikion had two churches, both still extant. The first church, Hagii Theodoroi, is remarkable chiefly for the fineness of its stonework. The other, more impressive church, was Panagia Hologitria. And there it is. This was the most architecturally sophisticated church at Mistras, apparently inspired by contemporary work at Constantinople. The interior is especially remarkable. We'll go inside now. A few frescoes survive, for the marble slabs that once lined the walls are long gone. Notice how bright the interior is. The most important church in Mistras was the Metropolis, the cathedral. Built in 1291 and renovated many times, Metropolis has a rather odd plan, with three aisles, as in a Western-style basilica, but a Greek cross plan crowned by a dome. This is the result of a 15th century renovation, which added a second story and the dome. The frescoes we'll see inside are mostly Byzantine, but heavily restored. Inside the Metropolis, the place where Constantine XI, the final Byzantine emperor, was crowned. Of the Paravleptos Monastery, little more than the church survives. The frescoes are impressively vivid and well-preserved, landmarks of the Palaeologan Renaissance, but unfortunately the church is currently closed, so take my word for it. No matter how much time you spend at Mistra, you never quite get accustomed to the vertiginous beauty of the place. Don't slip though. An especially impressive collection of ruined houses here. And off to our right, another astonishing view of the Erodus Valley. We are now approaching the Palace Complex. This plaza, almost the only large-level place in Mistras, was the city's most important public place. The highlight, just behind it, was the Palace of the Despots. Begun by William de Bihardwan, it was extended and modified by a series of Byzantine rulers. They had two long wings. One contained the kitchens and private rooms of the rulers. The other had the chief public rooms. In the great throne room, twice, in 1408 and 1415, the emperor himself held court. One more overview of the palace. The throne room was in the wing to our left. Hagia Sophia was the palace church of the despots. The frescoes are obliterated, but part of the marble floor is well preserved. Finally, we reach the castle, built by the Franks in the 13th century. Though restored several times, the plan never changed. The view was and is magnificent, taking in the Erodus Valley and the mountains that guarded both ancient Laconia and Mistras, the final bastion of Byzantine Greece. One final panorama, with a rainbow for good measure.