Archers!! How To Eliminate Grip Torque.

How you doing? I wanted to do a really quick video on torque. Front hand grip torque because I've gotten a lot of questions about it. I see a lot of stuff on Facebook and I just had a guy call and ask me a question. I'll go and start with his question. He had looked down his bow. He lined his string up middle of the bow and the arrow sitting pretty much dead center but his pins were well outside and he wanted to know what was wrong with the bow. The nicest way you can tell them is there's nothing wrong with the bow. Your grip is wrong. You're torquing the riser. I asked him first. I said, are you shooting down the middle right now with the sight set right there? He said, yes, I am. If you're shooting down the middle and your sight is well outside, it's normal to be a little bit out because every bow's got a little bit of torque installed into the bow just from the cable guard or any off center action of the cables. But if it's way out there and you're still shooting down the middle, I assure you when you're at full draw, that sight is directly above your arrow. The only way to get that sight above the arrow is simply torquing the riser over to get the sight in the right spot. The sight is treating the symptom of the problem, which is your grip. Real quick visual on why torque is so important or why it's so important that you don't have any torque. If you're drawing back and we're going to exaggerate way outside pressure like this, you've got the string right now. If you've got a nice, loose grip and you're not affecting the bow, you move it around like this, the string, the arrow, the bow, the sight, everything stays together. As soon as you grip the bow really hard and especially if you're gripping it really hard with any type of side pressure, what's happening is right here, you can see in effect you're pulling the string side to side when you're twisting the riser. You can see how much that arrow moves. Now granted, this is extreme, but if you're trying to shoot them all in the same hole at 20, you're giving up a ton right here with any type of side to side pressure. The other thing, if I push outside pressure like this, the arrow goes left. What's happening with your sight? Your sight goes right. Now you're already going to shoot left due to this. Now your sight's pointed off to the right. You've got to move it further left to get it on the target. That got me thinking, and this was years and years ago. Jason, if you're watching, I'm throwing you under the bus. A friend of mine could not shoot an arrow through the paper. He was getting frustrated, handed me the bow, shoot it, and I shot it, and shot a bullet hole. Now he's really mad. I got to watching him, and he was torquing the front handle. This was 15 years ago, and I thought there's got to be some way to make sure that everything's lined up. What I did, and I'm going to show you how to do it here in just a second. Right now you've got two aiming points, two aiming references that you're using to aim with. If you remember geometry in high school or whatever, you can always draw a straight line through two points. If you put three points in a line, that line is going to be perfect in a three-point aiming system. We'll lay the bow right here. Take your high-tech piece of wire. Could be a paperclip, coat hanger, whatever you want to use. You've got different options for mounting on the back. You can put quivers, other sites, or you can install one of these, which we jokingly named the Torco Meter. I will build you one and ship it to you for $39.95 plus shipping and handling, or you can watch how I do this and make your own for the night. Get it here. Just get it good and snug. We're going to work this around. Then we're going to go over to the draw board and get it where it lines up exactly the way we want while you're at full draw. Up here, all we're looking for is a reference roughly halfway between your peep site and your front site. What I've done here, now we're not quite done with this high-tech installation. We're going to put it in the bow press and draw it back. Then I'm going to look through the peep at the site, and then I'm going to give me a mark here, cut it off, and get it to where it perfectly lines up just under my aiming dot on this upper post. If you shoot a spot hog with a wire, you can mount it there, wherever, as long as you have something here to reference. I'm going to go right here, put this in. We did try lining this up with the camera through the peep, and we just don't have the tech with the camera that we're using. I'm going to pull this thing back. Here, come up here and show them what we're using for the front grip, because that has got to be about as torque-free of a grip as you can come up with. I don't want to do anything that's going to affect that, just a small loop around it. Now, I'm going to pull this thing all the way back, feel the stop, touch, or keep it up there. There we go. All right. Now, I've got my little sharpie here. Just take the peep, put this up to where it's just underneath my aiming dot. It's going to be roughly right there. We can come back and fine tune it here after this, but right there on that mark. Now, I'm going to trim and get it over to where it's just barely touching that post. See if you can get that. If not, I'm sure you can't. I'm going to drop this board here. Yeah, that's not going to work. You show this right here. All right. I'm going to show you this part. All right. What we have right now, you've got your front sight that is like this. Thank God I'm not an artist. All right. We've got your point and then your post coming down. All right. Your peep sight looks just like this, a little tighter than that, but you got your peep. There's your scope housing. Then this wire between the two becomes your third lineup point. It just comes in right here and goes right there. All right. I wish we could get in here and you'd see that because right now, if I line this thing up and just reach up here and barely touch anything, it's very, very noticeable right here. When I first started doing this years ago, I even noticed that I could draw everything to be lined up, but as I'm aiming, I start seeing that thing start moving off to one side or the other. That's just hand pressure changing as I'm aiming. Now, very important, once you get it lined up, it's torque free. By machine, you're going to load it up and draw. Draw normally. Cut that wire and if it's not lined up, it's telling you that you are torquing that bow one way or another. With me, I've been doing this thing a long time. It is perfect right on the edge, but if you draw back and if it's on the inside, if it's to the right, it means you are torquing that bow this way. Everything exaggerated here, there. Do not draw back, aim, oh, the wire's not in the right spot, and then take that front end and twist it around to where it's straight. Draw, settle in, look at it, and if it's not right, let down, adjust your grip, and start over and keep doing it. You could leave this thing on here all the time. It'll only be good for one yardage for your alignment, but shoot with it, practice with it, but it's eye opening. I hope this helps. If you have any questions, put them in there because I know we could have covered everything on a quick and dirty video, but I hope this helped. Enjoy the Torquameter, like I said, $39.95 or build your own.