HOW TO HOLD YOUR BOW

The evolution of the B-Real Grip. It's been a long work in progress, I guess. I don't even know when we first had our first B-Real Grip or Ultraviz First Matthews Grip, years ago. I mean, probably six years ago, five years ago, something like that. And I thought it'd be kind of cool before we unveil our all new B-Real Grip 2.0, that we kind of go through some history. This was the first ever B-Real Grip. It was a 3D printed concept. And honestly, the first B-Real Grip, geometry was not too far off of this. We didn't make too many tweaks. I think I picked this up, and this is probably dumb luck, but I picked this up and I think I shot a 30X, like right away, back when I was shooting like a ton of indoors. And we had the archery shop out of the back of the Archery Learning Center. So we ran with it, added side plates to it. So this was also still a 3D printed grip. And then we would 3D print side plates and put it on. And the more final version of that looked like this, but definitely, definitely not fully done. And it was 3D printed and not the best quality, but at the time, that's what we had going for us. And that's what we were rocking and rolling with. We then upgraded to a better material, not 3D printed anymore, but we still had 3D printed side plates that we would, that we'd glue into it. So a little bit better. And then we upgraded our 3D printed side plates. It's a little bit cleaner, a little bit nicer. The main grip is still a better polymer material. And then we got smarter and we started laser cutting our side plates out of like acrylic type material. And then we were able to do cool things like the limited editions and overall just the grip just kept getting better how we were making it. So this was the original B-Real grip, but you know, we had the, most people really like the B-Real grip, but I personally had, a couple of people personally had ideas of like, we can make this thing better. We can make it more appealing to the masses, I guess. So we started tinkering. This I think was my gen one. I just took a Dremel tool and just started buffing the crap out of it because there were a couple of little pain points, little tight points every now and again up in the throat of the grip. So I was like, what's it feel like if we just round it out? But I started losing material too fast and started punching holes and shaving that down a little bit, making your index finger have a little bit more freedom in there. So then we started prototyping. I wish I could find them, UltraView has them, but then we started prototyping. We ran several, several, several different variations. This was one of our proof of concepts. We have a 3D printed version one and it's goofy looking like this. It's cool because it's white, but proof of concept, we wanted to see if this was something we could actually run with. But now, now we have, wow, that was probably loud. Now we have the final. This has been a, honestly, a very long project and process because it's very complex how we did this, how we wanted to do this. And we wanted it to be right. We wanted the colors to be right. We wanted, we just wanted it all to be right. So we honestly kept pushing it back a little bit until we were a hundred percent like, all right, that's it. So here we go. This is the all new Be Real Grip, UltraView Be Real Grip, that of course, you know, my relationship with UltraView and Colby and everyone, this is kind of like our flagship, flagship collaboration project. So I'm excited. I have not unboxed one of these fully yet. Obviously I know about the packaging and everything, but I personally have not unboxed one fully. So this is exciting. Upgraded packaging from the standard original grip. There we go. Man, this is exciting. UltraView grips. Look at that. That's sick, man. That's really, really cool. That is cool. So here we go. We got QR code. And then of course, pull it out. And this is the new Be Real Grip. And we have more of these, right? Do you have them here? They're different colors. So we have more color options here. Boom. We have dune, which honestly is maybe my favorite or this next one might be my favorite. We got OD green. So OD green, dune. We do have a gray. I don't know why they didn't send me a gray to take a look at. I have some other ones floating around, but we got black, OD green, dune, and gray. In the all new Be Real Grip. Man, dude, this is the first time me taking this out and that packaging looks sick. That was satisfying. So initial glances on the new grip is yes, of course, it seems like there's two different materials on this grip and that is because there is. We did what was called an overmolding process of two materials merged together to become one essentially. And the base of this grip is still the same. I think with maybe a few tweaks, but essentially the same. And then this material that is the actual color is actually like a tacky material. So we wanted to create a unique feeling that created what our honeycomb feeling was trying to do, which is like that added texture, that added feeling of repeatability and know where to hold your grip every single time. So you can actually feel this cutout specifically on your hand, along with that tackiness, no matter the conditions, cold, wet, dry, it has this unique tackiness feeling that really keeps your hand from slipping around. So I'm super stoked about that. That is probably visually the biggest feature. And of course, there's the tactile feature of that too. Give you a side-by-side comparison there. Do you see how shaky I was there? Didn't even lay off. The next feature is since that is overmolded right there, it is a smidgen bit thicker. At least it feels a smidgen bit thicker right here. I honestly really like that because in the palm of your hand, it is a little bit more rigid and thicker, but then up towards the throat, it really narrows down. So you're not feeling pressure points when shooting a bunch of arrows or anything. And it's very compared to the old one. And what we were trying to do, similar to this, my ultra handy Dremel work is just a rounded out in there. So we did that way more comfortable, way more better feeling. I know Riley, honestly, Riley out of all people didn't like the original grip because of those couple little pressure points right there. But now you really like this one, right? Yeah, we fixed those problems. The next big thing is the shelf. We changed the shelf up a little bit. And I think besides visually looking at this, the shelf doesn't stand out as far away from the bow and it goes more up. So I will show it a little bit later, but it actually has a better chance of catching your arrow if you're a target shooter, if it falls off the rest and helps for sure keep your finger away from any broad heads or anything if you have a shorter arrow, getting it tight to the rest. But probably my favorite part of this is in the old grip, you had a lot of pressure on your index finger right here, but you can kind of tell, we'll have to maybe get some D-roll to show this. It kind of concaves in right there. So what that's gonna do is help reduce torque. It's gonna allow your index finger just to rest there. You still have pressure from the shelf on the start of like where your knuckle is in the start of your index finger, but towards the end of the grip, you have more freedom. So you're not gonna rip in there or torque your bow as much. Essentially, no pressure is the best case. You want very relaxed hands. You don't want anything to feel like you're really stressing it. So that's just one tiny little feature that we added on this one to help make your archery a little bit easier and less frustrating. The connection point to the bow. On the old one, we had just a friction fit with just plain old, you know, nothing special going on on the inside. On this one, since we did this over-molding, we're actually able to put these little tiny soft plastic points in there. So the friction fit on the bow is going to be way better and it's gonna hold a lot tighter, but still be allowed to pull off super easily. You still, obviously when installing it, want to scrape off all of the old glue and the old tape and everything that you got on there. You don't need anything to put this on. You just slip it right in. And that plastic in there, that rubber, really, really keeps it a snug tight fit. All right, we're gonna show how to install this bad boy. So we got this V3X and this grip works on all Matthew's bows 2019 and later. Or a quick way to know, if it has the engage grip on it, this fits on it. It does not fit on Mission. It does not fit on the original TRX38 or any 2018 bows. Does not fit on our Q2 Pawn Shop bow. Unfortunately, I wish it did, but it doesn't. We have a grip on here. I'm just gonna show you. If you have a grip on, the best way is just hold it and pop it out from the bottom. If you start prying at it with like a screwdriver or something, you have a chance of chipping it. If you don't care if you break it or not, I guess you can do that. But the best way is just work it slow, pop it off. So what's also great about these colors is we tried to get them as close as humanly possible to match most of the bows on the market. So of course we have, we have Dune here matching the granite of the Matthew's bows. So when installing this, got a little bit of junk on there still. When installing this, this is best to go at the top first and just grab it and slip it in. And that's it. And that matches dang good on there. Bada bing, bada boom. And then of course, to pop it back out, you just slip from the bottom. That's on there pretty tight. So it's definitely snugger fitting on the top and the bottom, which is good, but you just rock it back and forth and pop it out. See what an OD looks on here. Also looks good. Honestly, I might like that OD contrast better on there. I don't know. We're debating on what people are gonna like more, OD or Dune. Riley thinks people are gonna like the Dune better. And I think people are gonna like the OD better, but we'll see. So just rock it back and forth and it pops out. And then black, let's give you guys a look at that. Black is sexy though. It's subtle, stays on there really nice. I don't know. We'll see what's your guys' favorite. And then we do have gray, which I don't have a gray. Colby from Ultraview didn't send me a gray. That's very unfair of him. But yeah, we'll see. We'll throw the, we'll throw the Dune back on. And I think what I'm gonna do also in this video, is kind of go over how I like to hold the bow, some recommendations like with this grip and why it might be better than some alternatives out there. All right, so I got my phase four back out. I put the OD on it. Looks nice. Honestly, I might keep this OD on here just to cause some contrast. So I guess before we get the bow, this is very, very elementary, but I'll start elementary and then I'll get a little bit more advanced as we go. On your hand, on your bow hand, it's best to locate your lifeline. So your lifeline is this line that runs right along the center of your palm, going up to your index. That is kind of your north star when dealing with your grip. And your grip is going to want to lay on the thumb side of your lifeline, right along there. You don't wanna cover it all the way. You don't wanna use it as the middle and you don't wanna be way out here on your thumb. You wanna run it just alongside your lifeline. Pretty much, if you had the edge of the grip on your lifeline, you'd be in pretty good shape. So that is your first starting point. Put the grip next to your lifeline like that. Next, again, this is very elementary. So if you're watching this and you're like, Chris, shut up, this is for everyone that really just wants to see how are you supposed to hold the bow. So put your hand out in front of you like you're telling someone to stop. Then turn your hand at a 45 degree angle and relax your fingers. That's your grip. You want your knuckles to be at a 45 and your fingers to be nice and relaxed. So now that perfectly puts your lifeline in a good position, puts your hand in a good position, puts your forearm in a nice, relaxed position. So you go to a stop, rotate your hand, almost as you could go all the way over if you want, but just give it a good 45 degree angle. Relax the hand at 45 degree for your knuckles and boom, you're right there when you put all that into fruition. So we'll do stop, over, relax. Goes right in there and you can see my lifeline right along there. And where your fingers are gonna land is right on the front of the bow there. Knuckles at a 45, bada bing, bada boom. And the knuckles at the 45, why the shelf is actually really nice. Oh, I break it. All right, we're back online. So why the shelf's super nice about that because when you put your knuckles at a 45, you're resting all along that shelf. So it just creates another soft contact point. But again, with the new one, you still have a bunch of flexibility with your index to keep it nice and relaxed on that front. So now you know how to hold the bow, but what's really important is that you do all of those steps in the pre-draw phase. So the pre-draw phase is you knocked your arrow, you got your release hooked in, and then you put your hand into your grip. So while you're just here, set your cam right on your leg or on your belt or whatever you got going on here as your pre-draw. Then you just rest your hand right in there, everything nice and relaxed. You're like, all right, boom, found it. Now you don't really move it. You don't move it. You shouldn't move it at all from this stage. You don't want to draw back, readjust, flare your fingers out, do something stupid with your fingers. Once you're here, you don't do anything. Lock it in, you draw back, boom. Your grip doesn't move. That whole entire time there, your grip does not move. Rest your fingers on the front, boom. And now the fingers on the front, you know, if you have, let's say, anxiety about dropping the bow, there's wrist sling. So you can put a wrist sling on that kind of helps comfort you that you're not going to drop your bow. You can also do a finger sling. And there's even this like weird wrist sling thing that George Riles loves, but he's probably the only person that loves that. Sorry, George. But there's things to help you not drop your bow if you feel like you are going to drop it. But the most important thing in all this is torque. You're trying not to create torque into the bow so that your bow has a nice, smooth shot. Your center shot's on. You're not going to torque your arrow one way or another. And that all can be solved by having a good grip, but also a repeatable grip. And that's why it's so important. Have your hand in the grip the correct way in the pre-draw stage every single time. You're not worrying about aiming. You're not worrying about the shot. You're not worrying about drawing back. All you're worried about in the pre-draw phase is boom, grip. And you can get it locked in there. Then you don't move it and you get it locked in. And then you can start worrying about other things. You know, your shot process, your form once you're at full draw. The grip phase is the pre-draw phase. Besides maybe resting your fingers and lightly touching. You don't want to baseball grip it. I'm talking light. Like if I went up to Riley, if he was doing it correctly, I could just pull his fingers off very easily. And he'd be like, oh, what are you doing? And I'd be able to just lift them off really easily. Anything else? No? That might be it for this video. Hope you guys enjoyed. The all new Be Real Grip 2.0, available in dune, OD green, gray, and black. Available at UltraViewArchery.com and BeRealMerch.com. Super pumped about this. It's been a long time coming for an upgrade, but the old Be Real Grip that you love and a fancy new package of the 2.0. We'll see you guys on the next one. Bye.