I Made a fancy Shirtwaist on an 1896 Antique Sewing Machine!

The Nobby shirt—what is it Why is it called that And above all how do you make one All this and much more in the final part of my 1896 outfit presentation on my 1896 sewing machine project At the end of the nineteenth century there was a surge in the number of women entering the workforce With the rise of the industrial revolution women were able to work in factories as well as perform household chores An important symbol of this transformation was the evolution of fashion as women began to embrace new styles and expressions Need a professional outfit to wear to work in workshops and in factories Something professional yet also aligned with the social constructs of the time From there emerged the shirt size known as the Nobby shirt Shirt size originates from men's fashion specifically the standard men's shirt but was altered to conform to the Victorian ideal of femininity and attire Elegant Edwardian-era bustles with prominent pouter-pigeon-like busts And most of his work is done using gathers pleats and ribbed folds Shirts and numerous shirt-sized variations have become popular You have the standard shirt size that looks more like a blouse with a few gathers a charming little collar and puffed sleeves Or you can have incredibly ornate blouses with inserted lace and smoking with a beehive neckline huge collars lots of lace For the first time in history working women inspired everyday fashion which is incredible given the number of women who were employed and those who were at the forefront of fashion became so widespread that even women from The upper class who did not work wore these outfits It was an upward trend in fashion rather than a downward one Now it was the turn of active women Oh I should probably clarify Sorry yeah I just mentioned nobibai The word simply means "in style " It's the stylish blouse Well it's somewhat similar to the word "snob " but it carries positive connotations rather than negative ones Dedicated to Anola Holmes and her magnificent hats Today I'm using a ready-made pattern instead of drawing my own That's because I'm running a workshop and will be teaching people how to make this shirt I want to test this model to fully understand how it works before teaching others how to make shirts The advantage of this model is that it comes in a wide range of sizes making it easy to adjust according to your needs This model is a Victorian-era field shirt from 1908 It is therefore slightly more recent than the one from 1896 But since this is a campaign model the modes don't change as quickly campaign but it will always have the same style as the first shirts the original shirt sizes And I'm going to add a little of my own touch to it I'll be doing some inserted lace you know having a bit of fun with it Let's not start drawing Let's start cutting I just need to iron my fabric because it's been lying in a bowl Since last year I've been pinning and marking my pattern before cutting it out Here's the right front I've placed it with the front side down and now I'll make the dough So the first step is to flip this type I think this one is about half an inch Then fold it down to the level of the second line And then I'll sew here Then I simply turn the fabric right side out and from the outside I topstitch along the edge like this Very well And then I have the front of the dough Here's what it looks like on the back Then I'll do the other side So I'm now working on the left side And I placed it with the wrong side facing up Then I'll fold along the first mark So I folded that item and ironed it Then I make another fold about a quarter inch or an eighth inch farther out from the marked line And that makes it 2.2 centimeters wide So I'll fold it now Then I'll also iron it So basically I bend one by pulling it away from the edge And then I'll iron it And then I'll sew it Here with a backstitch Very well Now we have the left side and the right side You can now see how it looks on the left side And then this one will be layered on top like this But that's for later And we'll do it afterward because I want to be a very fashionable woman Um I'll use insert lace to add a nice touch to this piece Now the insert lace must be made before the garment is assembled because otherwise it becomes really awkward to do So basically what you're doing I'm just going to So I'll be placing the lace like this I want to establish a kind of parallel arrangement for the front pieces Um because I think it's really beautiful and there are just a few of them I believe So I'll just pin it And I carefully measure between the lace edges to make sure they're evenly spaced And I pin them neatly straight on the outside front edge of the garment Then I carefully catch each edge of the insert lace Then I turn it over to the reverse side And right in the middle of the scene I just cut straight through the center taking great care not to catch the lace Then I simply stitched the seam allowance and pressed it flat for a clean sharp finish Then I catch the seam allowance And there it is the insertion lace Very well then I'll do the insert lace on the cuffs I think I just want a small band around the wrist Well however since the wrist consists of two layers I think I'll Insert a spacer into each thickness Now for the wrists I'm not just going to fold the seam allowance flat There are two pieces and I'll sew them together later So the seam will be on the inside anyway But I think I'll just trim the seam allowance slightly so it looks a bit nicer Very well So the insertion lace is right here And that means I can start putting the pieces together Yeah okay So gather the front gather the top here and ease in the waist slightly here Now you can do it on the machine but you can't expect me to change it The stitch length on my 1896 machine is set to maximum because to be honest it takes hours It's not as simple as pressing a button on a modern machine Well if you were doing it on the machine I'd set the stitch length to about 5 Uh make sure you don't tie the thread or you'll have trouble gathering the gathers Very well But you know if you do it by hand you can add a small knot at the end of the thread I'm just going to step away from here to get some space to sew the seam allowance And then I just do a built-up area Sir There you go I'm just leaving the wires loose here for now I'll tie them later because uh my old machine doesn't work Um she doesn't do backstitches just like she doesn't do back loops So I have to tie them by hand But sometimes you can simply sew them on top Since it'll be in yellow I'll just sew them on top and cut them afterward That means I don't have to secure each small wire individually Because they'll be sewn over And the second line just a little below the first And then basically you just hold the two threads taut And then that creates the pleats And you're doing exactly the same thing if you do it on the machine Just make sure you only take the two top or bottom wires And you can do exactly the same thing Just pull Very good Okay So I have both pieces of yellow here Let's see I'll start with a piece Alright Here is the front Now I'll adjust the pleats so they fit neatly here I'll just pin it on both sides and use the same amount of thread Next I'll just make sure the pleats are nicely aligned Very well Then the other piece of yellow goes on top And the gathers are sandwiched between the two And then I'll do the same thing on the other side And then I'll just sew through all three layers right here Next I'll just trim the seam allowance Inside Yes iron it again Iron it thoroughly pressing it flat from the top And I'll start by tying the threads so I don't forget Alright then So I'll attach the back piece to the top yellow one Yeah Cool And I'll just aim for the center here A touch more gathering toward the center back Something like that Then inside the yellow the lining is simply turned under and topstitched So I have two strips of colored fabric and I'm just sewing a line half an inch from the neck On one of them By the way now's also a good time to try it on to check whether the neckband is large enough or too tight Well if the shoulders are properly positioned you know things like that Basically you just slip it on And just feeling a little you know Then I'll place this one on top Then just sew here To create the small collar band So Now I just need to trim the excess seam allowance here Alright So I've got my color and I'll just pin it on Around the neck I'll try not to catch the folded edge's interior in the seam Just try pushing it back so it doesn't get stuck And it's a bit easier because there's a curve all around it So Very well Now everything is pinned Most modern machines have a small mark here half an inch up Oh Very well It's time to sew And I'm going slowly because I'm sewing A nearly straight segment on a curve is quite delicate and cannot be stitched forcing you to keep it straight You need to make a circular straight point Bend if it makes sense That's one aspect of it Then I'll just cut a bit since it's not Not very pretty I'm careful not to cut into the color Alright And I'll just make a few tiny adjustments here Not beyond the seam just within the stitching margin here This makes sewing easier Oh please don’t let it fall apart so much Very good Then just re-enter the seam allowance Then fold the already-bent edge over it Alright Now you can sew this from the inside or the outside—it really doesn’t matter Well if you sew it from the outside you can control the stitch and its outward appearance But I just pinned it inside So I'll go with the interior since it's just a small test But I'd recommend starting from the top just to have A bit more control over where the seam line goes Just a small stitch Very well There you go Next we have a color Just a quick ironing touch needed Very good now you can see it Of course it's a fake cup so it'll look a bit nicer Yeah I hope that's a satisfactory explanation Very good we have the collar and it's time to sew the side seams Now I'll do an English seam for the side seams First I'll sew a small seam allowance turning it to the outside Then I'll turn it right side out and sew with a slightly larger seam allowance inward so the second row of stitching hides the fabric edges I made sure to include the grave accent Keep them well clear of the taxiway Now I'll do the small sleeve cuff detail Okay I think first of all I need to say— just realized I used a permanent marker But of course it'll vanish instantly Oh well Very well agreed We'll just follow what the thing says It's off immediately Oops Okay So it's this one This guy'll do Hmm question mark I suppose And that's it Alright alright I think I get it Alright Then again Alright So I think I should sew here on both sides then cut here and turn it right side out Let's do it Then I simply sew along the seam line I've marked And it starts from inside the sleeve And I just sew this small square piece around the spot where the werewolf was cut Then I turn the sleeve with the right side facing outward And I made the small incision And now I'm using the lines I went over earlier Figure out where the dough is going So just fold the lines to make it fit Then I simply sew the small buttonhole patch underneath From the buttonhole stitch if that makes sense Then I sew from bottom top along the buttonhole tape Um that small house-shaped structure that runs all around the top and crosses through To create the dough the dough And there you have it—finished pasta Then I simply sewed the sleeves together exactly the same way I did the side seams It's probably easier to do this without my huge sweater but oh well Well then that's how it's going to be And then I'll just insert it And then I'll align the The sleeve seam aligns with the side seam because that's where it looks just right Good Then I'll pin the shoulder seam at about mid-height I think And then I'm going to Create a small gathering fold at the top of the sleeve I stabbed myself I hope I don 't get blood on my white shirt It will be a little sad Next I'll just add a small pleat at the top I'm going to make some lovely little ones points because I can't do a row So it'll just be one row So I need it to be perfectly beautiful It's funny how I end up taking twice as long to do one row instead of two just because my brain thinks it's better that way I suppose Very well Alright I'll establish a baseline around the sleeve since I'm going to be good And just make sure the sleeves are properly positioned as this will make sewing them in later much easier Very good It's starting to look like a real shirt I think the sleeves are correctly positioned in the cuffs on the outside I just cuff the sleeves so they match the handlebar height I therefore marked 2.5 cm on each handle and will reposition them to make it easier to insert the handles later Then after that I just sew around the handles trim the seam allowance and turn them right side out And then they'ready to be tied up Well I've got my camera back It's charging I had to go buy thread because I only have beige thread and I’m doing topstitching but I don’t want beige topstitching I'll just topstitch each side of the insert lace to keep it securely in place I'll place a pin on each side of the wrist I will then tighten the gathers until they fit snugly around the wrist I then adjusted the cuff edges to fit the wrist I'll simply sew here Turn it over Sew again I will then turn it back around Everything I'll pin it from the top to make sure it looks nice on the outside It's the most important thing It should look nice on the outside not on the inside The opposite of people I'll just secure the wires at this end All the other boys have either gone home or joined the sewing So those two are the only ones extending beyond each side Very well A rear strip So it's this little guy this small guy And overall I just fold the edges in Does this guy have a half-inch But I don't think it's very important Very good our little man So the boss said to make my own band but I have perfectly fine cotton tape so I'll use that instead And I just take one length measuring around my waist Basically I wrap it around my waist and have enough left to make a small knot Coupé Then I find the exact center and mark it Then I just pull on the gathers I've made In the middle of the back rather So they match the size of the small strip the outer small strip I suppose Then I put on the belt and then the small outer protective strip I suppose Um and I pin it securely just above the gathers Good And I pin it just right in place so the pleats are all nice and neat Then I'll just sew around it And then I'll just hem it I'll just put the bottom edge away first And all these threads will be trapped in the hem so I don't need to worry about securing them And then I'll just do a small hem I'll finish the set-in sleeves now since they look kind of sad and you know it'll be a problem if I have to wash them So if you have a serger you can simply serge this edge It's the easiest You can make a zigzag You can fill it out by hand like this But I'm going to use the Victorian method they often employ using cotton tape Then I'll sew it right above the seam line Then I'll trim the seam allowance fold it over and hand-stitch it on the other side Very well So I've taped it down and now I'll trim a bit of the seam allowance to keep it from being too thick I'm very careful not to cut anything other than the seam allowance Okay I'll then simply proceed to the reduce and place it up to the seam allowance In fact I might not even need to do this by hand I could probably do it in the machine He pins it like this Look how beautifully finished the sleeve seam is inside Alright You may have noticed I've already made a few of these And that's why usually when I make boutonnieres they look really ugly at first And I think to myself that I really don't feel like zooming in on a hideous buttonhole That's exactly why I hope that by the end of this rank I'll be able to show you a nice boutonniere We'll see But overall to make a hand-stitched buttonhole I pull the thread up from below The knot is therefore at the back Make a tiny knot Next I'd like to highlight a few key points Here Just a small dot right across The little line I'm just giving a quick update before heading over to the other side And then I do a few points across on the other side It's crucial that the sides are sturdy enough as they'll bear the greatest tension Then I'll give a quick update before the other side Then I leave the thread there for a moment While I'm using my little scissors And I start in the middle of the buttonhole And I cut right up to the stop point Lay I'm not crossing the stop point I don't want to damage my stop point And then I anchor the line behind the starting line I pull the needle through Crosswise thread Pull And making sure the knot stays on the outside I assume on the inside of the buttonhole And then I keep doing this making sure to firmly secure it behind the seam line I've already stitched And not pulling too hard but also not leaving too much slack Amen Oh yes There you go So I thought we should do a quick summary Yeah actually I'm really glad about it I'm really very happy with the insert lace even though it turned out a bit crooked but you know what I mean You see No you can't I like it too I'm not sure if it's the pattern or if I did it wrong but the handles seem to be going the wrong way As usual the handles come from the front and we think to ourselves Apparently 2023 is the year of camera issues due to corrupted files You will therefore need to handle a hiro voiceover But you can see this cute little mannequin of a blouse turning as I speak I realized what I'd done wrong with the handles I'd put the wrong sleeve into the wrong sleeve That's awkward but we've all done it haven't we Overall I'm really happy with it I love this type of blouse They're simply iconic An essential feature of the late 1800s and early 1900s Truly iconic And I hope you enjoyed this video You know if you liked it you can give it a thumbs up leave a comment You can subscribe I appreciate each and every one of you I suppose it's a bit late to wish you a happy new year Happy New Year and I hope I can make lots of videos this year Alright thank you goodbye