Hong Kong's Dai Pai Dongs: Street Food You Must Try

A visit to Hong Kong is not complete without a meal at a Dai Pai Dong, once scattered across the city by the hundreds. These open-air food stalls now flicker in fewer places, but their spirit still burns bright. I'm Sing from Cathay, and today we're exploring a vibrant cornerstone of Hong Kong food culture, Dai Pai Dong. Dai Pai Dong emerged after World War II as a way for families to earn a living, serving quick, affordable, and hearty meals. Unlike cha chaan teng, these street-side eateries specialize in Cantonese stir-fry and the art of wok hei. The name means baked licensed stalls, because the licensed plates they were issued were literally bigger than those given to the other street vendors. There's no better place to start than at Oi Man Sang in Sam Shui Po, a neighborhood staple since 1956. So it's a common tradition to be given a basin of hot water or tea for you to rinse the bowls and all the utensils before the meal. Can you tell us a little bit about these dishes? OK. This is black pepper pork shank. Although this tofu is very simple, the chef has to fry it just right to make it delicious. There are a few more ingredients in the stir-fry. We have dried shrimps, cashew nuts, chive flowers, and squid. I used to be a civil servant, so I quit my job. My wife said, why don't you come back and help? So I came back to help in 1998, and I've been doing this ever since. The current owner, Ms. Wu, is a third-generation license holder of the family business. Although this eatery has moved its dining area indoors, it is one of the oldest and few remaining dai pai dong that still operates the kitchen outdoors. Diners from all walks of life flock here for their flavor-packed classics, from neighborhood regulars to Hong Kong-themed legends and even international icons like culinary world chef Peck Chung Wan. What sets dai pai dong apart is their signature wok hei, the breath of the wok. Secret lies in the heat. Oi Man San still uses kerosene gas burners, which burn much hotter than standard kitchen stoves. They're banned indoors, but in these open-air settings, the warring flames are what give the dishes their authentic taste. There are fewer than 20 dai pai dong left in the entire city, and still fewer that continue to serve street side. Due to hygiene and overcrowding concerns, Kern Gate is one of the last remaining street-side eateries in the city, offering diners a nostalgic experience. Here, you'll find not only classic dai pai dong food, but traditional dishes from the Hakka people too. The clams are super fresh. The black beans is offering a very special aroma. I think it's a really good combination of flavors. A lot of these street-side eateries doesn't keep credit cards, so don't forget to bring some cash with you. These days, dai pai dong are often tucked away in alleys and indoor cooked food markets. But here on Wusun Street, you'll find a cluster of street food stalls beneath an open-air cooked food market. Among these stalls is Wing Fa Seafood Restaurant. The manual has a dozen pages long and has twice as many ways to cook a shellfish. Located by the busy Temple Street night market, it's a great spot to soak up the energy of Hong Kong's nightlife and enjoy some fresh seafood. So over here, we've got the signature nam cheong bo jai fan, the Chinese sausage claypot rice. We decided it would take five minutes so we better drizzle the soy sauce over the top and let it steam. Meanwhile, let's try the other iconic dish, which is the bei feng tong chao hai, Thai-style shelled crab. So the crab meat is super fresh and I really like those garlic crips. It's adding another layer of texture to the food. I think it's about time for the rice. Let's take a look. It's really yummy, really flavorful. And I really like that grease from the sausages, which also make the rice super nice. Sing, do you want to try our signature dish? Sure. We sell 200 dishes a day. 200 dishes? Try it. OK, I'll try it. Thank you. Super crispy, crunchy, and chewy. And the salt and pepper is really popping. So Wing Fat started in 1988 by my parents. So ever since they started the restaurant, we've always been here in Temple Street. I was a full-time diving instructor. I traveled around the world for six years. After COVID, I came back and I realized my parents started getting old. So I don't want them to work as much as before. So I decided to, all right, you know what? I'm going to take it over. We hope to open as long as we can just to provide the true and then 100% local experience to our customers. Amid Hong Kong's constantly evolving restaurant scene, Tai Pai Don San is a beloved enduring fixture of its culinary landscape. They offer travelers a chance to savor the culinary history of the city. After all, some flavors are too iconic to fade.