5 Years Owning A Cult Classic From Sinn - The 556 I
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The ZIN 556 is not going to be a watch
that everyone is going to recognize.
However, it has carved out a unique lane of acclaim
amongst enthusiasts for its robust construction
and design identity that still works
in a variety of environments.
Well, after owning this piece for five years now,
I wanted to share my reflection of ownership
over that period of time, address some of the key points,
whether the latest clasp is actually worth the money
in going for that, and concluding thoughts
regarding it years later.
So it was the middle of the pandemic,
and I was in a different phase of hunkering down
and focusing on making as much watch content as possible.
This was a period where I was mostly spending time
reviewing watches from a variety of different brands,
not ones in my own collection.
And since I was experiencing so many watches
during this stage, I halted a lot of my own
collecting pursuits as I was trying to build the business
during a very uncertain time.
Although seldom, there were a couple of splashes
of acquisitions I made around this period,
one being the Zen 556i.
This model has been a mainstay on this channel
and amongst specific subsets of watch enthusiasts,
being an in-the-know tool-oriented watch,
if there is such a thing, for under $2,000.
Zen was a brand in the early stages of my collecting
that was a palette cleanser of sorts
and bridged my interest to newfound understandings
of my proclivities of appreciating
contrasting genres in watch design.
On one side, there was this understated elegance
that I have just always enjoyed in watches,
where appreciation comes through this discovery
rather than being so forward when wearing it,
it creates an abrupt announcement to everyone in the room.
And it was brands like Zen and others like Seiko
with their dive watches, Tudor with some of their
Submariners and other brands of this style
that really landed with me during this period of time.
Over the years, I have owned several Zen watches,
my most documented one being the Zen 104,
as I just acquired it again last year
after years without it, being the only watch
that I have purchased twice in my life.
And I can link to a video down below
that shares the complete story behind that one.
Yet until I acquired the 104 again,
the Zen piece I likely wore the most was this one,
the Zen 556i.
Now, I prefer the I compared to the versions
like the IB or the Arabic dials
because it felt more bold in its contrast
of simple linear markings,
all while evoking more of this aviation cockpit instrument.
It was so remarkably simple, easy to read,
and with its high gloss dial,
I thought it had some surprising beauty
despite the austere approach to the brand's aviation roots.
What pushed me over the edge at the time
was an impending price increase for this watch,
which I'm glad I did,
given that these have only gone up since.
Nevertheless, the 556i was the logical choice
for a watch that could handle just about anything
that I threw at it,
all while still looking proper enough
that it could find itself comfortable
even if it did decide it to be dressed up.
The first step in the process of acquiring a 556
is determining the dial type.
For those not privy,
you have the Arabic numeral dials,
which will come with designation of A
in the reference nomenclature,
the I, which refers to indices
and can be obtained in a few dial colors,
and the RS models with the red seconds hand.
For me, the 556i was the way to go
when it came to the 556
just because I think it represented the collection
on the purest level.
And I think if you find yourself liking the Arabics,
the 856 collection starts to make sense
as a better stretch pick,
as long as you're okay
with the larger case diameter of 40 millimeters
as you get into those tejumented case treatments.
The 556i is the simplest of the bunch by far,
although it also doubles
as the most striking in my opinion.
The dial has a straightforward layout
with just black and white colors on display.
The Zen logo is beneath the 12
opposing the automatic text above six
with the made in Germany mark residing
on the inside of the bold linear markings
showcasing minutes and hours.
The hour markers contain lume
as well as the hour and minute hands,
which have blackened bases.
With the tips being in white,
it creates an impactful visual
which enhances the legibility,
guiding the eye to the ends of the hands
showing a clear indication of the time.
The date resides at three o'clock
revealing a color match disc underneath
and the date position at three
is my preference compared
to some of the other takes on this
like the Arabic models,
although the IB and Mother of Pearl
with the no date might be better for some.
Then there is the dial itself
executed in this high gloss effect.
If I had to put into words
why I like this so much,
it is how this marries well
with the opposing idea brought forth by the case
with its satin finish leading into the shine.
The color black serves this dial finish well
as if it was executed in another color,
it might deviate too far
into this lighthearted category
where it would become
an entirely different proposition altogether.
It is stark, it's legible
and surprisingly attractive in person
as at every single angle,
it's easy to read the time.
The boldness of the display
deserves much of the thanks
to the crystal made of sapphire.
Yet it is the coating
that allows these ideas to take effect.
You have AR coating residing
on both sides of this crystal
which I have always expressed my interest in.
As when done well,
it makes it appear
as if you can touch the dial
without any interference
with the crystal looking
as if it has disappeared altogether.
Now, one of the challenges
with the use of sapphire crystals
especially at more attainable price points
is that manufacturers realize
that buyers usually see sapphire crystals
as a mere checklist item
with a field of accepted responses
only containing yes or no.
This way of thinking though
neglects why so many brands
still use mineral or plexiglass crystals
as without proper coating,
a sapphire crystal can be
an inferior crystal type
for things like legibility
or for just making a watch
appear more attractive.
ZIN regardless of price
has some of the best AR coating
in the industry
with little hue coming from the treatment
and it can only be sensed
in direct harsh sunlight.
Although I am a massive fan of this,
I will mention
that there are some drawbacks.
There are some small micro scratches
that have appeared in the crystal
as a result of the coating on the outside
yet they're so small
that they probably won't even appear on camera.
To me, it's a small price to pay
for a more attractive look overall.
Shifting to the broader case,
the 556 wears as true to size
as you will come across.
Measuring in with a diameter
of 38.5 millimeters,
a thickness of 11 millimeters
and a lug to lug of 45.5 millimeters.
I find this to be a very accommodating size
for most people.
It does edge on the side of being small.
Yet given the high contrast dial,
it doesn't appear diminutive.
The case has a satin finish
on every visible surface
including the case sides,
the screw down crown,
which is also signed
and the case back perimeter
that also features a sapphire exhibition center
with AR coating on the underside.
This satin finish is a nice middle ground
as it still can offer some shine
but hide scratches quite well.
As the only place you might see
some signs of wear
despite there being plenty of them
is the step top of that bezel
and on the bracelet.
In terms of where that bracelet meets the case,
you have a 20 millimeter lug width
which gets the aid of drilled lugs
for easy changes.
And in my time of owning the 556,
I have dabbled with other straps
but I like the Zen H length the most.
I've just relied on this mainly.
The bracelet has a mild taper
around 18 millimeters
until it meets the clasp
with the sizing being done
with Zen's hex screws
where Allen wrench like tools
are provided with the purchase.
Sizing it can take some time to get used to
compared to the conventional ways
and Zen employs this idea
to not strip the heads of the screws that they use
and I think this is a nice middle ground
to work around that idea.
As we navigate to the clasp,
those in the know will recognize this
as the former generation.
In the past year or so,
Zen has introduced a new
on the fly adjustment clasp,
a long requested feature.
Now, when I purchased the 556,
there was only one clasp available
for the H link bracelet.
It comes with a fold over lock,
three points of micro adjustment
that can be utilized
with the help of a spring bar tool
and has a diver's extension.
So I will make known
that I do have experience
with the new clasp on Zen watches.
I have it on the Zen 104
that I purchased last year
which is a welcome addition
and is worth the added price
that has come with the inclusion
at the time of purchase.
Now, check out the video down below
if you wanna see my full take on the clasp.
That said, the current price
of getting just the new clasp alone
is $300 and I haven't felt like
I need to get it for the 556.
I don't feel like I have $300 of need there.
In short, it's a better clasp
without question with the micro adjustment.
I just wasn't the one clamoring
for on the fly adjustment
in the first place for my 556
and I'm perfectly okay
with the old school method
of using a spring bar tool for my needs.
One other aspect of the 556
that I think is a huge reason
for its popularity
is the water resistance rating of 200 meters.
Now, the crown sealing
and the threading are fantastic
being premium in their feel.
This 200 meter number
is absolutely overkill.
However, I think Zinn has still delivered it
in a compact package
with a thickness that can still make
some dress watches sweat.
Whenever a brand is able
to add water resistance
without compromising wear,
it is always an added benefit to enthusiasts
and is one of the reasons
why Zinn and other watches
of the type like Alpinist from Seiko
have these strong supporters.
Transitioning to the back of the watch,
we have a view of the SW200 on the inside.
And the SW200 is one
of the most readily utilized movements
in the watchmaking world.
Nowadays, you will see it more
than the Etta 2824 in new watches
outside of the Swatch Group.
With Selita becoming a household name,
providing many notable brands
in the industry as a result
of the ease of regulation
that comes with it,
serviceability and proven track record.
It's absolutely not a world beater
when it comes to the looks department,
but Zinn has taken steps
to enhance its appearance
with the addition of that signature
gold tone sign rotor,
which it appears that Zinn
is starting to move away
from for select models.
Further, this is a premium
or top grade equivalent of the SW200,
which comes with some added embellishments
like blued screws.
The movement contains 26 jewels.
One more than that of the Etta 2824
has an EttaKron regulator
and features hacking or stop seconds.
The frequency of the movement
is 28,800 vibrations per hour or four Hertz
and has a power reserve of 38 hours.
The power reserve is far from exceptional.
And I do recall there being some times
where I saw this just sitting
in the watch box and thought,
yeah, I wanna grab that today,
but I saw it wasn't running
and you know what, I'm just in a hurry.
I'm gonna grab something else instead
because it wasn't running.
That said, the movement
has been nothing short of accurate
and reliable for me in these five years.
This is not chronometer certified,
but mine anecdotally still runs exceptionally
well within COSC parameters to this day.
Further, the watch complies
with the Dean 8309 standard for magnetism
and the Dean standard 8310 for water resistance
with the DIN or Dean being the German equivalent
to ISO fulfilling further on the brand's reputation
of robust capability.
So looking back when I purchased the Zen 556,
my collection was a lot smaller than it is today.
Therefore its ability to thrive
as one of the pieces in my daily rotation was high.
In this period of collecting,
I would wear watches like my Seiko Divers.
I had my Explorer II 16570,
the Black Bay 58 Blue,
Hamilton Khaki Fields,
and this Zen 556.
Of this crew of pieces,
the Zen was arguably the most boring.
It was a three hand black and white watch
from a brand with little recognition
outside of watch nerds.
Nevertheless, when it came time to grab a watch
that could fit the mold of the day amongst this group,
something was constantly firing in my brain
that had me picking up the Zen more often
than you might suspect.
The Zen had little going for it as far as standing out,
both in my collection and to others
who would see me wear it.
But that didn't stop me from grabbing it
and enjoying it each time I decided to wear it.
A theme I talk about when it comes to collecting
is how watch purchases are not merely a logical pursuit
and making decisions solely based on rational thought
doesn't always lead to what our intended end result is,
which is having this enjoyment when it comes to watchmaking,
as these types of emotions are not easy to measure.
That said, watches like these remind me
that it's more than just emotion
that should be part of the purchasing journey.
The Zen 556, quite frankly, is boring at times.
It's a safe watch.
Yet my appreciation for it has grown as a result
of how much it makes plausible sense.
When I'm looking at my watch box
and think about the day ahead,
I will quickly scan a list of questions through my mind
to determine what watch is going to be the one
to choose for the day.
Some of these are emotional questions.
Others are more practical.
In these practical circumstances,
the Zen 556 showed why it has continued
to stay in my collection
and went out in these levels of discussion,
as there really isn't a day
when it wouldn't make sense to wear it.
But all right, guys, that's my take here on the Zen 556.
This is a strange watch in many ways
because it's not going to wow you in certain circumstances.
It's not something that you've never seen before.
But as you start to get into the details,
you recognize through its own utility
and utilitarian approach,
it actually does have a distinct look.
There's not necessarily anything else
like this exactly under $2,000.
Maybe a Damasco and what they're presenting
with some of their watches,
which is another obscure type of take.
I think Zen is a more known idea around that concept.
And then if you think about other comparisons
like Longines maybe being above it
with some of their Spirit series,
or you look at Hamilton and the khaki field range below it,
I do think that's a slightly different approach
compared to something like the 556.
And as much as there might be an emotional decision
that comes with watch collecting,
if you are trying to add something
that just can be a great everyday type of wear,
I think the 556 still remains as one of the best options
under $2,000 in today's market.
It's very easy to wear.
I think it looks great.
It works in every single environment.
And I don't think it's a watch I'll ever get rid of.
I really do appreciate it.
Despite having some watches
that definitely fill a similar void now,
I think it's just able to fill so many voids
if you wanted to lean on it
and also not being at a price
where you have to be so overly concerned
about babying it all the time.
But love to see some comments down below.
Are you an owner of a 556?
Have you considered one in the past?
I know this is also a brand
that you're not really able to see out in the wild.
They don't have distribution
where you can try one of these on in the United States.
So I'd love to see some personal ownership stories
going down below,
because I think that's helpful for people
that are maybe on the fence of considering one of these.
But hopefully you guys enjoyed my take
of talking about my journey with this watch.
If you guys like these style of videos,
I can absolutely do more of them.
Just like to see a thumbs up,
maybe some encouragement down below.
I could share some more of these watches
that are parts of my collection.
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