Farexon Electric Standing Desk - Assembly and Review

Hi, I'm Mike with House on the Mend. In this video, we are going to unbox, assemble, and review this fantastic electric standing desk by Ferrixon. I'm also going to show you some much-needed enhancements and modifications at the end of the video. So let's get started. If you break it, he will fix it. If you buy it, he will build it. House on the Mend. So this standing desk comes in three colors and three sizes. The three colors are black, like you see here, brown, or white oak that has white legs. As far as sizes go, there's the 48 inch, the 55, and this particular unit happens to be the 59 inch. So let's unbox it and get it assembled. So as always, let's start with full transparency. I'm not paid nor sponsored by Ferrixon, but they did send me this desk for free for me to record my review. Now this box is every bit of the 70 pounds listed on the outside of it. Very heavy. So I'm going to assemble it right here in its final destination, which is the wall behind me. I have a moving blanket set out. I did notice that the package arrived damaged over here, actually cracked open at the one end. But there is corrugated cardboard inside and also a fair amount of styrofoam right around there. So I'm hopeful that there isn't any damage. Let's see what's inside. All right. It's like some sort of a table mat, like an anti-skid mat. That's nice. It's full of styrofoam. So I'm going to shake it out outside. The styrofoam is pretty badly damaged, so let's see what shape everything is in. All right, let me remove all the plastic and I'll sort everything out, inspect everything, and we'll get going on assembly. All right, I vacuumed off all the styrofoam, got all the parts laid out. Everything is in good shape. I don't see any damage from shipping, so that's a good sign. Now, you get all the supplied screws and the Allen wrench that's going to be necessary for about 95% of them. There's a smaller one that will be used for this bar that drives the two gears to raise and lower the item. So this happens to be a four millimeter hex bit. I have that for my little screwdriver here, so I'm going to use that instead. It'll be a lot quicker than this Allen wrench, but at least they supply it. Every single one of these points where you're going to be putting screws into the medium density fiberboard or MDF wood, as well as the rest of the parts, is all threaded. So that's nice. There's no actual wood screws going in that can get loose over time. They go into these threaded little unions here. So because of that, I'm going to use threadlock. This is Loctite, and that way everything will stay tight and I won't have to worry about it. If you think you're going to be moving and it would be easier to disassemble this a bit, then you might not want to use Loctite. This is the blue, so it's not as harsh. You can get it off, but I'm going to be using that. Okay, so you're going to need the 12 dowel rods that are included, and they're just to line up the tabletop, and they just slip fit. There's no need for glue on those because all they're doing is keeping everything lined up for when you secure them with brackets. So put all those dowel rods in, and then put the four pieces of the tabletop together. It's one thing about shipping all the way from China is your tabletop is broken up into four pieces. Here we go. Now the instructions say that these brackets that are going to join each piece at these four square spots need to have these lines going perpendicular to the union of the two boards. So straight across just like that, and these are all put together with the G screws. They have them labeled right on the back. So a little bit of Loctite. You can also use fingernail polish instead of Loctite if you don't have it, but make sure it's a color that no one in the household is using or you might get in trouble. I love this DeWalt one here. It's got a gyro inside and it senses if you're wanting to tighten or loosen. Pretty neat. I've got the setting pretty low so I don't strip out the screws. Alright, let's take care of all the rest of these. Okay, that's it for now with the tabletop. Let's go ahead and set that aside and we'll work on the frame. Alright, so for the base we're going to start with the two legs, and they are going to get joined together with these two crossbars. The listing for Amazon was pretty proud of the fact that this has two of these bars, so let's get those on. So if you look right here on this bar, these two holes that join up to the leg are offset downward. So you don't want them up, you want them downward like that. And we're going to be using the H screws. A little bit of Loctite. Okay, flip that over and repeat that exact same process with this other cross brace. Alright, raise it up and let's put the feet on. It doesn't matter which side you put them on and which orientation. They all go in the same way. And each foot is going to get four of the I screws. I've got my screwdriver on a really low setting so that I can do the final tightening by hand. That way we don't strip anything out. Alright, next is the feet. No thread lock for our feet because we want to be able to adjust them to get everything level. Alright, while we're down here and stable, I want to put in this rod. It is a hexagonal shaped rod inside of a bigger hexagonal shaped rod. And this is going to drive the gears in both legs up and down via the motor at the same time. So just keep in mind when you're doing cords and things in the future that this is constantly spinning. So the instructions say the first thing you want to do is set it in on the non-motor side all the way to where this little ring here engages. Then open it up all the way across. That was a lot harder than it should have been. These gears aren't exactly lined up and they were kind of binding. Alright, now I definitely want to remove the four little screws that are in here and put Loctite on those because this guy is going to be spinning back and forth constantly. We don't want that getting loose. So I'm going to put the little screw on the little allen wrench first so I don't get blue all over my fingers. Next thing we want to put on are these little side pieces that are going to attach the frame to the tabletop. And it's going to be easier to just stand this guy up temporarily and do that. Alright, we got one going in on each side. And while we're doing that, the table comes with these little hooks for headphones or bags or whatever else you want. So let's put those on as well. So this gets put on with two h screws on either side. So the motor side is the left when you are facing the front of the unit. So I'm going to put a screw on the back first without the hook and then I prefer to have these little hooks closer towards where I'm going to be. Line these cross braces here up with the frame itself as far as this height up here on top. Alright, let's scoot the frame out of the way. Get the tabletop down and we're connected to. Alright, gently tip the frame back over and it gets mounted to the table at four pre-drilled pre-threaded points. So line those up and those are going to take eight g bolts. Let's not get them all the way tight yet until we get all the screws in. We got all the screws on the side fastened to the tabletop. Now it's time for the last few steps which is to install all of the electronics. I'm going to start first right here in the center. There's two pre-drilled pre-tapped little inserts where this little data box goes and that is going to connect the motor to the controller to the power source. This guy lines right up just like everything else has. Pretty impressed with that. This cable from the motor goes right in on this side and then our really sleek little control pad can go on either side. So I'm going to put it over on the right side. I'm going to undo the little twist tie on here so that we can take this cable. It looks like an ethernet cable. Bring it right across to the center box and click that in place. Now wherever you want to police up these cords, I guess we could do it over here like this to keep them out of the way. Then I'm just going to reuse this twist tie. You could also put a zip tie on there. Then finally here we're attaching the power supply, the little transformer here, to this central box. It is a very fancy little connector here. It's got two different size connectors. One almost looks like a 110 outlet plug. The other one is a straight cylindrical rod. Those line up and can only go in one way. Push those together and then look at this locking clasp. Keep that together. Pretty neat. I'm going to set that towards the back like this. Now while we got it here upside down to make it easy on ourselves, let's use these little self-adhesive little wire minders here. So you just peel off the back and stick them on. Now I'm going to go get some rubbing alcohol so that these don't just pop off. I'm going to wipe down this surface first. Alright, wipe down the bottom of the table with rubbing alcohol. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm going to put one little connector over here to hold this one cable down. I'm going to use two over here for the cable going from the keypad over to this central box. Then I'm going to use two back here. I'm going to put one across nice and loose so it doesn't interfere with this spinning rod here. Then I'll put out just enough cable so that it can raise and lower to its highest point. Then I'll wrap the rest up in between the two. So this is pretty easy, just a matter of peeling back, sticking them on. You can hear those clicking into place almost like little zip ties. And look at that. These guys are big enough to handle several strands of this cord wound up together. That's nice. Alright, I think it's time we flip it over. I'm going to be real careful. Now that's wiped off, we can put in these nice little included cord concealers here that you can stick your cables through for power and charging. And look at this mouse pad. It's so long that it has to cover up one of these little cord tenders. No matter what you do, unless you want it overlapping the front here. That could have been done better. Alright, let's move it into place and give it a try. Let's take a look at this sleek control pad. So by default it's set to centimeters and this unit goes from its lowest point of 69 centimeters all the way up to 115. Now that translates in inches from 27 to 45 inches. Now I happen to have a tape measure that has centimeters and inches on it. And as you can see right there, we're almost spot on at 69 centimeters for its lowest height. So it seems that's accurate. I also, as you can see here, when it raised it all the way up to the top and that's also pretty accurate. So if you would prefer to have inches rather than centimeters from its lowest point, you double click the down button and it switches over to inches. So that's pretty cool. To raise and lower it, you simply press and hold the up or down and it raises and lowers to the spot you like. When you find a height that you like, to record that height you simply press and hold any one of the four numbers for four seconds. When you hear that tone, it has saved that as your memory setting. Now me personally, I'm six feet tall, so all the way up to the top is my preferred standing distance. And I just press and hold the four for that. And then I'm going to leave the other two for my teenage daughter. She's been eyeing this thing, wanting to do her homework. So I'm going to let her pick her preferred point as well. Now if you want to reset all the settings from memory, you simply wake up the screen, press and hold the up and down button. You'll get three zeros and an audible beep when it's all reset. There we go. So this desk can hold a maximum of 80 kilograms. And if you're in America, you might be wondering, is that three pounds or 300 pounds? Nobody can know because it's a metric system. Well, a kilogram is 2.2 pounds. So 2.2 times 80 is 176. So 176 pounds is a pretty good weight limit for the normal use. I find the stability of the desk and the feet to be very good. The feet are totally stable. When the desk is fully lowered, it is also very stable. As you start to raise it up, there is a little bit of wobble that is more easily introduced. However, when I'm standing here and working on the computer or using the mouse, I haven't noticed any issue. It doesn't bother me at all. The countertop is very susceptible to fingerprints. It's probably because this one is the black model. If you have the brown or the white oak, I would imagine those might subdue those fingerprints a little bit more. However, I just have a microfiber towel and I wipe it down anytime I notice anything. The edge banding on the front seems to be the weakest point. It is very thin and I could see a belt buckle when you're standing or the chair if it bumps into it when you're sitting, causing an injury to it quite easily. So I'd be really careful with that. The motor speed and a noise level I find to be no problem at all. I will say that this unit, as it's descending, there is an audible click. Also, keep in mind that the rod going between the two legs is constantly spinning as the unit is ascending or descending. So if you have a dress or other loose clothing or long leg hair, maybe that could potentially be some sort of hazard for you. So I would keep watch out for that. Finally, the mat. I have come to really like this mat overall. I think it's a great addition. I've never seen anything quite like it. There are a couple things about it I don't appreciate. One is it's got some very visible ripples in it. And two, it is so big that it covers up the two cable management grommets in the back and that's going to need to be modified. Well, in editing this video, I'd like to keep it around 20 minutes so we're going to close things out. But in part two, coming soon, I'm going to install a pullout drawer. I really miss having a drawer underneath this desk. I'm also going to install a power strip underneath the desk so that when I raise it up, I'm not yanking cords out of my various devices from the plug down below. And this particular one I've got not only has 110 outlets but also has four of the USB ports. So that's going to be great. And then the final thing I'll handle in part two is addressing the mat and the fact that it covers up those cable grommets. So if you found this video helpful, will you please give it a thumbs up? It really helps the YouTube algorithm to start suggesting it to more people like you. Also, please consider subscribing. I work really hard to put out good quality content and there's more videos to come. Now I'll leave a link to everything I talked about in this video. Full disclosure, those are Amazon affiliate links, so if you click on them and end up making a purchase, it won't cost you a thing, but I do get a small reward at the end of the month. It helps to justify the time and the effort it takes to make these videos. And also to afford some of these accessories that I can show you. Until next time, thank you for watching.