Adjusting your arrow rest for different diameter arrows- THIS TRICK GETS YOU IN THE MIDDLE FAST!

Hey, I'm gonna give you a quick little way to adjust your setup from one diameter shaft to another. And this is a perfect time for me to explain this because I just went from indoor training to finally getting outdoors right now. So I'm gonna be converting over from a large diameter indoor arrow to a outdoor arrow, a little bit smaller. I'm gonna go with a Sonic KE right now and I've got it fletched exactly how I'm gonna want it for some of these spring hunts and also just some of my early outdoor training pre-tack. I might go to a smaller vein later, but for now I want to show exactly what I do to just make a quick change over. I don't wanna have to spend tons of time replacing everything and redoing everything to go to this small diameter shaft from a large diameter. This also works if you go the other way. But mainly what we're doing is we're gonna adjust the rest so that it makes up for the difference in diameter on the arrow shaft. So the easiest way to explain this is if you can imagine right now, my launcher with this large diameter arrow shaft is set up to where that arrow is gonna be at about 90 degrees when it's at rest. So it's gonna be like this, okay? Now, if I have a smaller diameter arrow shaft, because it's smaller in diameter, where it's sitting on that rest, it's gonna fall deeper down. So a smaller diameter arrow shaft on the same rest is not gonna be 90, right? It's gonna be a little bit deeper in there, so it's gonna be more like this. So what I'm gonna do, and this is the easiest way to do it, is I'm gonna take an arrow that I know is tuned and I know is set up, which for me, I've already worked on all that with this larger diameter shaft. I'm gonna pick a distance that I'm very comfortable with and I'm gonna go ahead and make sure my marks are zeroed in to where I'm hitting dead center at the distance I've determined with the diameter shaft that I've been working with. Okay, so in this case, I'll just go ahead and make a few shots for you here. In this case, I've been using this 23 diameter arrow for indoor training. So I'll just, for now, I'm just gonna go right on that black panther. It's a big white dot, I can easily see it. Okay, there we go, that's pretty much dead center. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take this smaller diameter shaft and honestly, if your spines match, your spine matching your bow's weight and everything, your lefts and rights shouldn't vary too much and that'll be determined by some of your fletching configurations as well. But as a general rule, what I'm gonna do now, let's see, I've put this on, you can see it's running a little downhill. So all I'm gonna do is adjust my arrow rest to bring this arrow into the same impact area as the previous arrow. So I'm not gonna adjust my sight, I'm not gonna adjust my sight to where that's happening, I'm gonna move my rest. Again, I can tell this is running downhill. So what I would do in this case is I'm gonna loosen up my arrow rest and if you wanna know the value of micro adjust arrow rest, this is where the micro adjust really, really comes into play, spending that extra money for these micro movements. So what I'm gonna do is I loosen my rest and now I'm gonna roll my dial right here and I'm gonna try to bring that point up to where the point would have been the same as that other one. And this is just a quick and easy way to get you close and honestly get you on paper and from there you can just do a little bit of shooting and see how your groupings are and if your groupings aren't exactly where you'd want them, you can go back to paper and you can go back to bear shaft tuning. But for me, just quick fix, getting this arrow back up to that 90 degrees and trying to get this arrow to impact the same as what that one was. Another thing too is calm days are very nice for this. You don't wanna be adjusting tunes and adjusting setups on days where the wind's blowing all over the place. And that arrow looked like it was going really nice and I believe it is just under that other one. One's top of the 12, one's bottom of the 12 and honestly, yeah, that's right exactly where I thought it'd be. I'm gonna make one more quick adjustment and I'm gonna bump that up two more clicks, tighten it down. And again, this is just a way to get you on paper and let you do some quick checks on an arrow shaft. This is valuable. If you're ever in a hunting camp and something happens with your arrows, you gotta grab someone else's arrows. If they are different diameter, just learning to adjust that rest and bringing your point of impact closer together. If you do this a little bit closer, it's the value of it will be greater just because if you have a really heavy arrow shaft versus changing over to a light one, there could be differences in an impact further down range because of the cast of the arrow. But for regards of just getting the arrow rest into position, this is such a quick and easy way to do it. We need one more. Let me go one more time. Boop, boop, boop. There we go. And let me do this one more time and I'll show you guys exactly what we got. That was nice. All right, let's go down here, give you a quick look. So this is just an easy way for people to understand the value of that micro-adjustability for just fine tuning different diameter arrow shafts into the right spot. So you can see here, I was just bottom of the 12, raised it once, one more time. Now my height is right where I need to be. And actually the fact that that arrow shaft is just a little bit further to the right than that larger diameter is actually telling me that I'm gonna be able to bring my sight closer over the top of my arrow shaft, which is telling me that spine of that Masonic is actually gonna agree with my bow a little bit better. So simple adjustments, huge gains, and I'm not completely gutting the whole bow to start over. So this is a great way to do it when you're out in the field.