Izrada dvostrukog kalupa 1 dio

Evo after some time slightly longer one of these videos I've been consistently getting inquiries about mold making Today I'll try to show you all the tricks for making this homemade mold yourself I think I already made a video about this but I believe there was a single mold there You can head back toward the recruitment office if I call out this way—you'll find him somewhere around there That's why I'm switching to a double mold meaning a mold made of two parts For me the best approach is to cut these MDF tiles or panels like this They're 30 by 20 I don't know today I grabbed about twenty items at Bauhaus for maybe a dozen euros or so so it's not terrible The wall is four millimeters thick and extremely hard—perfectly fine for plaster So you first need to combine that into one basically a box that will look something like this So this is the bottom one two three sides and now we'll fit in the fourth So I'll take the fourth side here and just flip it over I'll cover it all around with packing tape to make sure the corners and everything else are secure Even though I'll be pouring plaster later this is actually helping me figure out the size I need so I can make some molds When working on a larger piece I naturally just take different measurements Now I have just a few small items to make molds so for example this is basically how it would look for this mug This is 30 in length but I don't need 30—I'd be satisfied with half of that I always make sure there's plenty of meat left so to speak—meaning I keep the stuffing well around the main item So we're doing a double mold for the casting now I'm sad about it since I'm 30 meaning I only need 15 here I'll use the dull saw now I've already noted it here So when I cut this it'll fit snug between these two walls going in to the depth that suits me So I'll slide it down the bottom letting it come to a stop somewhere along the way And when I wrap it all with adhesive tape meaning when I secure it so it stays put on me I'll isolate it further from a military standpoint later on Before pouring and before crafting the molds we'll secure everything tightly with clamps That's it You'll need a measuring tape a pair of scissors a pencil and a ruler to measure yourself I have to make three different ones so I'll just record what I'm doing now So here the distance between this and this rock is the inner distance 18.5 cm So this is now 18.5 cm and I'll simply cut it here using a circular saw A comfortable non-motorized pleasant ride Now it depends on which set of molds I'll be making In this case it's a cup with a handle so I'll be moving this part back and forth We won't make an internal measurement for the mold I'll secure it here with adhesive tape and then tighten it with clamps The rope has completely tightened along the guide wires it's now super secure At the moment we're working on the size of the lower section to which we'll attach the object whose mold we need to cast Then we'll reinforce everything from the outside with clay Glue the inner edges and outer edges together to ensure it's completely secure and firm It means that at the moment we start applying plaster we don’t accidentally spill it somewhere or have it start dripping unexpectedly Ready for these lower sections of the mold That's it for now I tied it with tape from the stationery store but I just secured it temporarily—nothing's fully firm yet What's important depends on the size of the object you're working with So here it is secured externally just slightly fastened And if you need something bigger well this is perfectly sufficient for this cup It could be for example this medium-sized cup right here The clay will slump initially but it will eventually firm up in the clay So here it is that's it And the same goes for an object of this size I suppose you could say this is some kind of middle ground So for say a little glass that looks like this that's perfectly fine too So for you some medium-sized items—here's one too Maybe a bit too big but okay For casting the mold can be a little thicker as well I definitely wouldn't go for less here But what I wanted to say is You can also use plastic boxes which are flexible enough to fit this way There are silicone molds and there are flexible plastic ones It depends on what you're pouring Evo that'll just fit perfectly into this plastic bag I'll shift it a bit higher That's where I'll make the pouring spout I'll place it in the center for easier access—these flexible boxes are much better For smaller items Now for larger items the same principle applies But larger pieces Meaning larger structures Sad sam htjela još pričati malo o nečemu što je sada u zadnje vrijeme dosta popularno And that's the creation of a 3D printer mold Meaning printing it using a 3D printer What happens then So here it is right here actually However the old way of working requires clamps some wooden boards spacers and all sorts of other things To be present in some place and physically active I don't have the knife I don't have the starter log I don't know this I don't know that I'm doing this for the needs of my workshop which is currently on Saturday and in this video She sourced the MDF for it today But I have a colleague at home who usually works on software for 3D printers I actually I'm bringing him an item Here this is the specific mold for my mug So these are actually two halves What we'll make at this workshop using cardboard and MDF boards along with plastic containers So some kind of plastic containers Otherwise printing a model on a 3D printer is quite demanding and takes some time You need to know the software and you need to know your 3D printer You might have someone who can do this for you—if not feel free to reach out This is much simpler and far more practical Why It lasts significantly longer Plastic lasts a very long time—if you don't rip it apart literally I'd say even for years If it doesn't burst anywhere unpleasant You'll need small clamps Actually all of this is from a 3D printer So this is the mold matrix the master mold the parent mold Half for this item half for the other When plaster is poured into this plastic mold a plaster mold is obtained So I'm making a positive mold so I can get a negative one Then when I join them I'll pour in the left-handed material This is already a finished ready-made piece but this is a finished mold for casting What do you need on this On this I mean to say assistance with a 3D printer is much simpler So this mold is long-lasting You can use it use it Once you've made one mold in a 3D printer these are all you need I don't know I'll give it a try now If it works for me here are all his parts So you just connect him directly One side the other side Print as is So half of the items we imagined making are now a mold That's one half The other half is dismantled in the same way When you do all of this Evo as you can see it's very sturdy Care must be taken during the large-scale extraction There's very little space to take it It's extremely practical Fold it into one box I'll handle all the parts the small clamps too If the fit feels off gently file down the bottom with a wooden tool or lightly sand the plastic until it slides in smoothly We'ready to replicate As many times as needed That's the advantage of 3D printing Evo I've been working with my teammate on this project for the past year and it's turned out really well We've already made several molds from the prototype versions If you need a MasterMold matrix please don't hesitate to reach out That way I'll pass your contact to him and you can coordinate directly from there I'm sorry but regarding So once we get this—gypsum and the mold—we need to prepare it for casting Once the gesso has dried and everything is fully done and smoothed lightly sand the edges with fine sandpaper so it still feels soft to the touch So get yourself tires that are quite firm They must be extremely sturdy We simply stretch them into two halves One mountain And one down below That's sturdy enough for you to pour in the casting material inside You can add one more if you really think it's not secure enough but the key is the corners—those are where the clay wants to escape the most Of course it won't just sit neatly one on top of the other meaning you won't have to deal with it anymore So at the moment the object is cast which I'll record in a new video it comes out like this—rough and unpolished So he has these assembly lines—I'll call them that—which come into play once the object is dried naturally requiring touch-ups and further processing in this case the object is dry meaning sanding This upper section here is excess but it's actually the overflow section the overflow channel so this is the part located up here I always pour a bit over so this is the bottom edge of the cup indicating its size but when pouring it always fills at least halfway up the overflow channel Then the upper part is obtained which is later simply shifted and removed When all of this is removed you're left with this—this is a clean streamlined object its lines stripped away neat and sufficiently thick After that biscuit firing is performed resulting in the following biscuit-fired item: a biscuit-fired cup Regarding the introduction I'll see if I can record part of the workshop on Saturday since I have four participants and at the very least I'll capture some of the processes so I won’t have to re-record that part later when pouring the left side and everything together we’ll need to apply a release agent so the plaster doesn’t stick to our structures We don't have as many issues with plastic but we still need to clean everything up and so on and so on—I'll talk about that in another section Well then for now farewell goodbye