A Rare GQ gets Built Assembly Begins

Alright, welcome back guys, another episode. Now in this episode we're still on the GQ but today we've actually got traction. In this episode coming up we've got motor stuff, we've got all the internals going in, hopefully turbos, motors should be going in, gearbox is going in, batteries going in, we actually got momentum. So let's get cracking and get straight into this video. Shut up! Axle! Anyways, alright guys, so first things first, most arguably important thing, arguably important thing in a car, is your battery. So we're running the battery in the backs because we're trying to keep the engine bay empty and keep room for the massive snails that you're going to see later in this video. So we're going to make a quick little tray, drill some holes in the floor, run all our cables and stuff and get that all sorted, while trying to keep all the cable management nice and tidy. Now we're going to move over to our 12 volt system which I'm going to explain and have installed in less time than it takes to go to Smoko. I'm not going to bore you with a hundred thousand dollar setup in a canopy that's going to take me five days to wire up, I'm going to keep this simple, keep this short and keep this very good. What we've got here is an EcoFlow Delta 2 Max. Now this is going to be our entire 12 volt system in this tiny little box. This runs 180 amp of lithium, it has the inbuilt inverter, has inbuilt the screen, everything, everything you need in 12 volt systems in this box. Now this is perfect for our tub setup as we're limited to space and we kind of want this removable so we can go out, go down to the beach, run the fridge etc etc. Going to chuck in this BCDC today as well, that's only going to take me a couple minutes, not going to have to pre-terminate all these wires and everything, it's all pre-wired and all done. So let's get cracking into this and I'll show you guys how quick and easy it is to throw these in. Alright guys, we quickly knocked up that battery box, it's nothing fancy, just a bit of alley. So now we're going to move on to the BCDC charger. Now they come with this little powder coated bracket where you can put it on and then bolt it to the side of something. Because we've only got a single skin tub, what I'm going to do is smack a 90 in this bracket with our bender and sit it under here and potentially counter sink some cone head bolts into the top of this, this is where the rooftop sits, like the frame. So if I whack a 90 in there, counter sink some bolts under there, sit it on a 90, we should be able to mount that charger right there, nice and protected by the wheel well and the eco flow box, so we'll be able to mount this and then I'll start making up just a little hold down bracket for this fridge here, fridge, for this box here and then we're literally done. We put the positive and the negative to the battery and that's the 12 volt install finished. How quick and easy is that? Guys, my very competent employee Mitch is about to show you his latch, okay? He's very proud of his latch and he's about to show it to you, so I want you to pay attention, okay? While he talks about his latch, okay? All right guys, well that was super simple, 12-volt systems, I could pretty much say done, battery tray is there, all I need to do to that now is rivnut it in, which I'll probably do right now and then buy a little battery clamp towards the end of the build, probably one of the last things we do. Anyways, I'll show you this, I made a little bracket for the eco flow, it's those little things that you're kind of proud of sometimes, I really like it, it's just a little hinge, a bit of flat bar to a little clip so you can just pop it off and then pull the eco flow out and take it down the beach or take it to your mate's car that doesn't have a 12-volt setup and help him out and then just line it with some of that car builder's sanded and the stuff so it's nice and soft, that way it doesn't rub into the eco flow box. Yeah, that's my little adventure for this afternoon, so all right now get down in the comments and tell Mitch how good his latch was, all right? I want to see it, do it now. Anyways guys, so this stuff obviously when you have a fresh paint job and you're working on your car and ----, you get a lot of sparks, shavings, dust landing on your paint job and we don't want that, so this isn't a sponsor but if you go down to Bunnings you can get this stuff called hard floor cover, it's for like chippies when they're working on tiles and they want to scratch tiles, works pretty good for paint, not super sticky but it also sticks to itself ******* heaps but if you have fresh clean paint, not dirty paint, fresh clean paint, this stuff sticks pretty well, you just lay it on there and it'll just stick to the paint. It's kind of like a PPF to be honest but just yeah, it just doesn't look good, that's all. So we'll just run it down there, like you're not trying to make it look good, more bubbles and more air between your paint job and elements so that's just what we do in between builds, you'll see all of our ----'s covered in green stuff and if you're wondering what it is, that it is Bunnings hard floor cover if you've got a project car. Holy freaking zoomed in, all right good morning guys, so even though it's the same episode it's actually been quite some time, me and Sammy just got back from holiday, I went down to Jindabyne to go snowboarding with my friends, Sammy went over to New Zealand to go snowboarding with his friends and as you know when we go away from the shop for a week a lot of parts arrive, so now we've got a lot of parts. So right now we're about to marry up the motor to the gearbox with some parts that we've got and we're going to put the motor in and weld out all the engine mounts and get all the motor and stuff sitting in nicely before the cab gets here because it's just a lot easier to do it that way. So let's check out some of this ---- we've got. All right so for conversion parts we've decided to go with Marks 4WD once again, we did them for our last LS build, everything just works flawlessly and perfectly so we're going to do it again. Now we didn't get like heaps of stuff we just got more of the basic stuff because this build's not going to have like a lot of functioning things I guess. So we've got the engine mounts, really easy just to get them prefabricated everything's going to sit right. Bell housing obviously, clutch save, clutch line and a few nuts and bolts. Your input shaft conversion little thingo and that's about it really. And then we've got these, super exciting to talk about, these are our turbo headers from Proflow, once again these guys do amazing, heaps of amazing LS stuff. So these face forward as you can see, they kind of look like the exhaust you see on boats, these are pretty cool. So these face forward on the motor and you bolt your turbo to the end of them. Pull the box in, what we're going to do is put the bell housing on, just mock it up, smack it on the motor, no clutch, no flywheel yet, just get everything sitting in there properly then we'll pull it out, ice blast everything and then completely build the motor and then it can go in for the last time. All right so gearbox, what box are we running to handle the twin turbo LS power and why have I gone this box? So we've just done a TD box, it's going to be a touch and go if this thing will last. We've only decided to do this because if we're going to get like a T56, it's just they're really hard to get, also quite expensive. GU boxes, they will handle a lot, actually a lot more power than you think and it's all about the power delivery. So with the supercharged LS like Sam's old one and his manual, when you stand on it and the torque curve is really sharp that's when you blow up gearboxes but with turbo LS you can kind of roll onto the power and then when you roll onto the power it's not a sharp torque curve so it won't really explode your box that often. My mate Darcy's running one and he's got 660 through a turbo LS and it's been lasted for years with collapsed bearings and everything. So I've got faith, I think we'll see how we go, if we keep blowing them up then we might go to a turbo 400 or something like that but we'll see how we go, I've got faith in the old TD boxes, they can handle heaps. So now we're going to chuck on this bell housing from Mark's and then chuck it onto the motor, chuck it in the car just to get all those engine mounts lined up and welded up. All right so I'm not really concerned about sealing it up or torquing anything or any of that just yet because this is all going to come back off to get ice blasted and stuff anyway. This is just for our mock-up but this is all on. It's a sick bit of gear so you kind of go away from this fork style with the booster going in there and then that operating your clutch. So this full hydraulic booster setup, not booster, master setup, way simpler and a way better setup. So now we're going to pull this off, take it over to our motor, get the motor on the ground, marry these two up and we'll be bloody good to go guys. We're going in, we'll be in by smoker. All righty guys so we've got the bell housing on, that's all married up to the motor, super easy and simple process. Thank god these guys have done it a million times, it makes it a bit easier. So now we're going to move on to our next little project and that's going to be putting on the engine mounts onto the motor. Then we can put the rubber mounts on, sit the motor, because it's super easy you just line up those existing transmission mounts with the transmission cross member and then you can pretty much find where these are going to sit, where these weld-on mounts are going to sit and what height they're also going to sit at. So it's different to if you had a ZD30 and you do the LS, you can actually retain your ZD30 engine mounts, you don't have to cut them off but because we had, I'm pretty sure the chassis had a TD in it, so you do have to cut them off and re-weld them on but that's completely fine guys, I'm very happy to do that. So let's get these engine mounts off, smack these new ones on and then we'll finally be able to drop it in, see where it all sits and then we can start messing around with with all the spicy parts. Also while I'm here, if you guys don't have a set of these, these are called long handle, long handled double-ended ratcheting spanners, you just would have heard about me talk about these before. They're actually just amazing, they've got the straight step there so you can really crack on bolts, then the other end is ratcheting. I find these just amazing but when the bolts are hard to get to, the other side is really hard bolt to get to, but when the bolts are hard to get to, these things are just cracker. So SP Tools guys, jump over there, grab yourself a set of these, you will not regret it. All right guys, as we can see I've got the motor in and the mount somewhat lined up, now I'm just going to mark out where it needs to be grinded down so we can get rid of obviously the powder coat on the chassis, find out where we need to grind these down and then we can weld them in. Now with the Hilux build, we had to make our own mounts and I can confidently say this is significantly a thousand times better and a thousand times easier than having to make your own mounts. So I'm really stoked we could get these, obviously you guys know where to find them, marks if you want to get yourself set, they just make this process so much easier. Also having your cab off makes it, I would hate to lose the cab on. So let's get these all marked and grinded and then we'll have this motor sitting on its own weight very shortly. All right guys, so now the engine mounts are in and if you follow all of Mark's instructions properly then they should be like happy to be there, you shouldn't have to pry anything in place, they kind of just line up with everywhere they need to. I've gone and hit the back side of the chassis and the back side of the mount with some weld through primer, that's just to keep it all sealed up so there's going to be no salt, moisture or anything in there for years to come, so they'll never have a problem rusting. All right, so now what you want to do is kind of just center the motor and make sure everything's just nice and center and happy where it is and then we're going to tack it out, just do a really good tack so nothing moves, lift the engine out and the box out completely and then you can weld these out, then we'll ice blast this motor and box and we'll be able to put it back in. Righty-o guys, so the engine mounts are now welded out, I've sprayed them to keep them nice and non-rusty and that's the last time this chassis will get touched, that was, yep, last thing, so now we're going to try and ice blast this motor, we do have an ice blaster here so we'll try and get that sorted out shortly, hopefully we can do that soon, then we'll split box, actually now split box and motor again and then motor back on engine stand and start stripping this motor, rip the heads off and get into some internal work, something a little bit exciting for everyone. Oh ----, apologies guys, I've just had influenza for like two weeks now, I'm so wrecked, I've had way too long off of work, went on a holiday, that was enough time off, but no, you're gonna be stuck in bed for another week after that with influenza B. All right, well just ignore me while I'm recovering from the week of death, okay, there's another LS in the house, oh they are breeding around here, I tell you what, we're back with another LS baby, she's an L98, before Mitch rips in to this and strips the thing, because I know he wants to do that, I thought I'd film what we're doing first, okay, we've got a lemon, possibly, shout out to Bailey winning, right, this is his old motor, why did he sell it? Because it wasn't running the best, why did I buy it? Because I couldn't find another one, for less than 10 grand, they're about, honestly, seven, eight thousand dollars for an LS motor these days, or six liter at least, so the price was right, and if nothing mechanically is wrong, I'm just hoping replacing every sensor on the thing will fix the little misfire it had, plus we're changing a lot of stuff that may just delete that anyway, so there's a risk there, we'll probably pop back to this section of the video in a couple episodes time, when the thing's running like ----, and this will be why. So yeah, six liter L98, what we're doing, twin turbo, but we're leaving stock bottom end, we're not going to go stupid, spend a heap of money on forging it for a car that's going to blow a ton of diffs anyway, because she's a four-wheel drive, right, this ain't no Commodore. So here's a few mods we're going to do, we're going to get this tuned by Kent and the boys at High Torque Performance, really great with LS stuff, spoke to him about what cam we're going to chuck in, they've got their own custom grind for the twin turbo, he said with the stock bottom you're looking at about 15 pound of boost, all right, so we'll talk about turbos in a second, what we use in there, but what we need to do to prep this motor for that sort of boost, I'm going to take heads off, we're going to change valve springs to double valve springs, change the timing chain, so that's a bit stronger, we'll be doing a trunnion upgrade, but what I've actually got is complete new trunnions, sorry, I've actually got complete new rockers from Proflow with upgraded trunnions already done, so that was a bonus, so didn't even know the guys did that, so you can get them, then we're going to be doing multilayer steel head gaskets, replacing them and ARP head studs, so that should help keep the top end together, bottom end should be good for like 7-800 horsepower anyway, so that's what we're doing there, so I'm going to strip this motor down, change those things out and we are ready for some horsepower, you wouldn't bloody read about it, woke up this morning from a call from Mitch, I'm in bed, I've got the flu, yeah she's gone around a bit I think, I don't think I gave it to him because I've only been here for half a day and I was in bed the whole time, anyway, so now Mitch is out of action, I'm going to start stripping this thing down, and what I'm going to do is not film the whole thing, just do one massive time-lapse because I'll tell you how to strip down an LS motor, if you see a bolt, undo it! All right, it doesn't look amazing in there, it's definitely a used engine, but I'm going to strip it down, once I pull the sump off, roll it over, check all the bottom end, make sure crank pistons and that all look good, the bores look fine, they're a bit dirty and a bit burnt up, but no dramatic damage I've seen so far, give the heads a bit of a service, make sure I don't have any burnt bowels, they all look pretty consistent, no outliers there, but I haven't fully disassembled it yet because the next thing to undo is the crank pulley bolt, if you know LSs, they are not a splined fit, they're purely done up with bolt pressure to stop it spinning on the crank, so I pulled the big birther out of the bottom drawer, SP tools, just for an idea, here's the one you would have seen us use all the time, and how's the size difference, so I thought I'd film this just to see how it goes, I don't even know if it's going to undo it, a lot of the time you need like massive breaker bar, some people go stupid and bloody put a bar on the key with starter motor or something, but I'm going to see if this old girl can do it, otherwise you might have to get a big bar on it, but let's see how we go, proper impact socket as well, oh that's doing it up I think, hold on, light work of the big girl, SP tools blown out of the park again, all right sorry if I still look like death, because I feel like death, still getting over the boogies, so I've done a little bit of inspection, felt each one, feel this one, feel that one, all looks good, so yeah I've taken obviously the heads off now, what I've done is dropped those heads off to my local machine shop, they're just going to do a quick check that they're not twisted or warped, Bailey said it did get hot a couple of times, so to be safe they're just going to give it a little bit of a deck, make sure that the services are still dead flat, just because we're putting a bit of boost in this thing, I don't want to blow a head gasket straight away, so they're going to get cleaned up and machined, with the bottom end I thought I'd just take the sump off and spin it around, still got enough end float in the crank, none of the bearings seem like they're loose or on the way out, there's enough tolerances between everything, everything moves nicely and it spins really good, so that's a good sign that the bottom end is fine, we're not going to be pulling that apart or touching it, because that's just big money and we don't want to spend that, so a stock bottom end on an LS can handle plenty enough, so what I'm going to do now is probably just throw all the old covers, sumps and bits and pieces on and spray the whole block and heads black, and then we can start going through all the bits and pieces that I'm going to change and put on, as you can see in the bin over here, this is all the ---- that we're throwing out, it's pretty much the whole engine, valley covers, front timing cover, obviously all the gaskets and stuff, so I'm going to run through all the ---- that we're putting on from pro flow and it is a lot of stuff, so they do do a heap of stuff for LS motors, which is really cool, so let's get some paint on and then we'll start showing you how we're going to assemble this thing, oh and we do have a cam on the way too, so that should arrive today, hopefully we get heads back today, cam today and then it's Friday, so over the weekend I can actually assemble this whole engine, so that's the plan. So for the paint we've chosen pro spray like a pro, engine enamel paint, pintra, oh it's actually not ******* English, I don't know, sand border and it seems to be looking pretty nice, so we're just painting it to give it that like rattle can rebuild, that way we can sell it on marketplace for an exorbitant amount of money, so I said this episode would be the exciting one, but I lied, so next episode we'll finish the rebuild, chuck the motor in, car will be on, so make sure to stay tuned for next week's video and we will see you guys next week.