My first day in Kenya continued with an incredible street food tour of the capital that focused on country’s amazing meat dishes! Join me as I try the national dish, nyama choma, as well as the country’s most controversial food, mutura!
Joining me on this adventure are my friend and cameraman Tasos, and my guide Obed from Kumbukumbu Tours. Let’s go eat!
BAYLEY’S: Here, we had an incredible spread centered around nyama choma, the grilled goat meat that’s the national dish in Kenya! We had it alongside ugali, sukuma wiki, kachumbari, sliced avocado, irio, and spinach.
SUGARCANE JUICE: After our nyama choma feast, we enjoyed some refreshing and potent sugarcane juice with ginger and lemon.
#kenya#nairobi#streetfood#travel#foodie About Me: My name is David Hoffmann. Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,400 destinations in 97 countries to experience and document unique cultures on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media. I highlight culture and historical sites, but my passion is food! I love to experience and showcase the different flavors each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
We see goats everywhere, literally everywhere you look there's goats.
Right here we have all the goats hanging, so many goats.
My leg of goat, 3.4 kilos and straight to the grill.
Welcome to Nairobi, the capital of the East African nation of Kenya.
This country is known for many things.
It's vibrant culture, beautiful wildlife.
One thing Kenya isn't as well known for is its cuisine,
which is rich in meat and a starchy cornmeal paste called Ugali.
In this episode, we're exploring Kenya's meat culture
and its national dish, Nyama Choma,
as well as a controversial blood sausage called Mutura.
This meaty delicacy was first made by the Kikuyu people,
but gained the reputation of being a low-class food,
a stigma that stuck for decades.
Oh wow, incredible mixed meat.
All the herbs are here.
In this video, we dive into these unique Kenyan dishes.
Mambo from beautiful Nairobi, Kenya.
Today I'm taking you to the national dish of the country.
And what is that?
It's called Nyama Choma.
That is grilled meats, but we're having goat.
And they also have cuckoo at this restaurant.
Cuckoo is chicken.
We're going to have it paired with Ugali, which is like a mash, right?
It's cornbread.
Also, we're going to have like some salad along with that, right?
It has what we call Tsukumawiki.
It is a national vegetable, green vegetable.
It always comes with meat because that makes a good dish
because you can't always eat meat and cornbread.
Yeah, you have to pair with something.
You have to, exactly.
Exactly.
Okay, so Bailey's, Ken, the manager, gave us access.
We're going to go into where they have the meats hanging.
Then we're going to go to the grills and we're going to eat.
Exactly.
So, I mean, as you said, the country has, as the statistics says,
1,635,000,000 goats.
There's a lot of goats, guys.
We see goats everywhere.
Literally everywhere you look, there's goats.
And right here, we're cooking goats, cooking chicken.
How are you guys doing?
So, we go on the other side.
The entrance is on the other side.
Okay, okay.
Let's do it.
Right here, we have all the goats hanging.
So many goats.
And then over inside, they have this board where they're going to cut the goats.
Hello, guys.
How are you doing?
You good?
When people are choosing and selecting what they want for them to be grilled,
they will just choose considering the age of the goat.
The more younger it is, the more tasty and soft it is.
The more edgier it is, it will be very, very hard to destroy by the teeth.
So, I'm just asking him to select for us the younger goat.
Some people, they like also edgier because...
The reason why lamb is so tasty and why young goat is so tasty is because
most of the time, well, lamb for sure, they've only drank in the milk.
They've never actually grazed, right?
But goats, you know, a baby one is probably at this point,
this one probably has eaten a little bit of grass, right?
Yeah.
So, it's still going to be tasty.
But that's the difference, right?
Gamier is that they've been eating grass and then super delicious succulent lamb.
It's like pure milk, right?
Yeah.
The fact, another fact is this goat, they are like mountain goats.
Oh, they're mountain goats?
That kind of.
He just means they're not farm goats.
They're just like from the wild, right?
From the wild, they pick them from the mountains.
Got it, got it.
They are grazing natural goats, grasses and they bring them here.
It's not like processed or...
Nothing.
That's why the food in Kenya is so good.
That's why that egg I had earlier is so good.
They don't pass through the fridges and everything.
Nothing.
Just from the mountain, they bring them here.
So, they brought them here.
They kill it today, right?
Yes, kill today.
And then straight to grill.
Fresh, actually.
And then that makes it more healthier than, you know, they don't have to worry.
Oh, of course, of course.
One more thing to add.
On the side of Kadiaga, the soil is a bit salty.
So, the soil is salty.
That's amazing.
I'm just going to weigh it to see how much it is.
So, it's 3.5 kilos and each kilo is like 5 U.S. dollars, right?
So, that's like 20 dollars, roughly 20 U.S. dollars for this incredible piece of goat.
I'm ready for the grill.
All right.
So, this is my leg of goat, 3.4 kilos and straight to the grill.
Oh, you good?
Amazing.
This is fresh.
Super fresh.
And he was saying the reason why this goat's a little salty is because the soil here is a little salty.
So, it's not just the leg, it's the leg and that whole like extra piece over there, right?
Yeah, we are going to see the different cuisine, different way of cooking the meat,
the grilling the meat.
This is one way, there's another way because we are in a meat country.
So, while we wait about 30 minutes for this to cook, we'll see that.
So, let's go.
All right, guys.
Thank you so much.
Everywhere in Africa is like this, you know?
I love it.
Still raw, still like real.
Yeah.
It's like real life.
That's how it's supposed to be.
Yeah.
The only place that wasn't like that was Johannesburg and Cape Town.
Everything else is like...
That's not Africa.
Yeah, that's not Africa anymore, you know?
This is not Africa.
This is Africa.
Benzema.
All right.
So, walking through non-stop, guys.
Over here, it's like a mix of like street food vendors.
You have some more like little kiosks all over the place.
Lots of people walking through.
Lots of potholes, dirt road.
For me, these places are the ones that impact me the most, you know?
Take me somewhere else.
It feels very natural to be here.
Like, pure life in the streets.
Like, this is pure life, you know?
Do you want to try?
Yeah, maybe I'll try.
All right, let's go.
Let's go.
I don't know where we're going, but we've been waiting 30 minutes.
So, it'll be very good.
Careful here.
So, we're going to this green building over here to see how they cook some meats.
And then, from there, we'll catch the car back, because that was a long walk.
He said 10 minutes, but he's like, that's 10 minutes to African, like this.
That's like 10 minutes, right?
Oh, my gosh.
Hello.
How are you?
Mambo, mambo, mambo.
Mambo.
Dennis.
My brother's name is Dennis.
So, here, Dennis is going to show us how he prepares the sausages,
how he stuffs sausages and the meat he uses to do that.
And later, once, you know, once it's like 5 p.m. sun setting,
that's when people go to his place to eat.
And, wow, we're like going through.
It's like housing here, huh?
Indoor factory.
Yeah, minced for a cow.
We cook them.
After that, we pack them.
Intestines, yeah, yeah.
Then, we just prepare them.
This grill here.
Stains, we, this is where we pack them.
Beef here.
This is beef of a cow.
This is the same as this one.
We don't just boil them.
Okay, so it's not ready to be put into the intestines.
He has to first boil the meat.
So, we'll come back here later.
Now, we're going back to eat the delicious goat, Nyamachoma.
Nyamachoma, right?
All right, so where's the car?
Five minutes.
I mean, this is epic, bro.
This is like, look at this.
Look at all these markets here.
Till what time is the market going on?
This kind of market, they are the whole day.
Five up to, yeah, up to seven in the evening.
They even set up some lights by the evening.
Still, yeah, continue to do that.
But the regular market, mostly like the big market in the town,
they only open morning and evening.
By the day, they're not very active.
This is because they are mostly fruits and the food market.
They are needed every time, so they are open.
So, we're here again.
Ready?
Yeah, ready.
They're ready, they say.
Let's go to the table, they'll bring it.
All right, here we go.
Oh, wow.
This is a goat, right?
And there we go, the goat leg.
Look at this.
Gonna grab this guy like that.
Oh, yes.
This is so good.
It's gonna like literally rip off a piece.
Can't even do it.
Oh, it smells amazing.
Wow.
Okay, do we have a knife?
Cut.
Let's start.
There's more coming.
Yeah, right there.
Hot.
Wow, that is scorching hot.
Like it literally just came off the grill.
That juice is just being sprayed, right?
Wow.
I feel like I have to just grab a piece, right?
It's like I can't wait anymore.
It smells too good, guys.
Nice and salty.
And grab it.
Like buttery.
Young goat, could tell.
You know what I'm saying?
Like it's way gamier, right?
If you have an older one.
Whoa.
I won't stop, my friend.
This meat.
The oils, so good.
I can't believe this is a national dish.
I'm super happy, man.
And over here we have?
Kachumbari.
Kachumbari is tomato, onions, and what is that?
Some parsley?
Broke that whole thing up, huh?
And right behind you, that's where we have Ugali.
It smells amazing.
No, in India they have this, no?
It looks like idli.
How is it called in English?
Idli.
It looks like that, no?
So it's not idli, though.
It's not steamed rice cake.
Okay, you know best.
And what's this?
Just container.
Just the meat.
We have the sweet potatoes.
So it's a mix.
Finally, nyamma chongma.
Yes, grilled meats.
We got incredible goat here.
We have?
This is kachumbari.
It's a kind of a salad, tomato salad.
Kachumbari?
Yeah, kachumbari.
And this, as you see, is avocado.
These are fresh veggies.
They are pita.
Kind of to give you the taste.
And we have sukumawiki.
This is a national veggie that you can find everywhere on every dish.
So they're different, those two, okay.
Literally, they mean like push the week ahead.
Push the week ahead.
Yes, because they are affordable and they are everywhere, you know.
So we have the potatoes, mashed potatoes with the corns.
And we have this famous Ugali.
It's a maize corn bread, fresh maize corn bread.
Right here, Ugali.
And some sauce.
Some spicy sauce.
Then we have some of this.
So I'm just gonna like.
And this is actually what we are here for.
The ribs, right?
It's a goat meat.
It's fresh as well.
Super fresh, right?
So it's like a mountain goat.
It's not from a farm.
No.
Just wild goat.
Not even passed through the fridge.
So it's actually a live goat.
It's slaughtered in Italy.
It is fresh.
I love goat.
I love lamb.
This is super tender.
A little salty, you were saying.
The land, right?
Look at this.
Break that up.
Basically, we are eating wild animals.
Yes, wild.
Like we showed you before.
We have a plate with the Ugali.
So what we do here is we add some greens.
So I'm gonna grab here.
Put some greens right here.
Let me get some of this.
And all with hands.
They didn't give us any spoons.
Get some of this, right?
And this all on the side.
Fantastic.
And then.
So it's got like a piece here.
No, no.
You can eat.
Then you take a piece.
Meeting another piece in your mouth.
So you cannot just.
Got it.
Like take them at the same time.
So take one.
Yes, like that.
Then you pick also.
So you pick slowly, right?
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Slowly.
Every piece.
Everything has been presented in your mouth.
That's amazing.
That one's incredible.
This one.
Wow, what a good green.
It's not spinach.
It's like a spinach though.
Yeah.
This is spinach, right?
Yes.
So the different tasting.
They give you a nice.
Oh, so tasty.
This one with onions.
I love it.
Super moist.
That one's more dry.
And here.
Salad.
So chili.
So where should I put that?
On the veggies.
The smallest chili, yeah?
It's like super hot chili.
You think it's.
So get some ugali.
Too much.
Then you just reduce the chili by the veggies.
It's not too much, man.
It's more like a spicy salsa.
Oh, it's incredible, man.
And after you eat this.
Everything is local.
All these greens came from the market here.
Yeah, they're just from the farms here.
So there's corn there.
Potatoes.
I guess the green might be some avocado.
So next up, we just grab some meat and like.
Just bite, you know.
Chew like a dog, right?
Oh, wow.
It's light ourself.
So they didn't add almost any salt.
That comes from the ground, right?
From what they eat.
I love the meat.
So we just put this on the side somewhere.
Yeah.
Is it okay?
Yeah.
Sure?
Yeah, I'm looking for the fat.
This is what I was looking for the whole time.
This is gonna be good, right?
So tasty.
If oils, you have fat, you have meat.
What a meal, huh?
This is magic.
That's why they say the magic Kenya.
Magic Kenya.
Yeah, just it's all about this.
It's all about this.
I love it.
Okay, so I guess now we're gonna all enjoy.
Everybody, thank you so much.
Thank you so much.
I think I'm just gonna go for this guy right here.
Like this one has a lot of meat.
No, this one, this one.
It's like more like charred.
If you're a vegan, don't come to Kenya.
No, you can eat vegetarian.
You just can't eat the meat.
Yeah, you can come and just take this.
We have all options for vegetarians.
So good.
I'm amazed by it.
It's bland, but you mix it with everything.
That's the point.
I'll get some more of this and just add it here.
It's not as spicy as I thought it was gonna be.
We got, we have three plates of this spinach in one plate, right?
I love the sauce.
Yes, that's the best of it.
I picked the big piece, I know, I know.
We'll slowly get in here, right?
I actually love the veggies so much.
So they are salty.
Amazing meal.
Thank you.
Africa, Middle East, Asia, everybody eats with hands.
You go to the Western world, it's like, no, no, no.
They look down upon you, you know?
So you eat this every day?
When you're, when you're in Kenya, you eat it every day?
Yeah, every day.
Every day.
So after this, we're gonna have like a sausage, right?
So basically, we're gonna see them put the meat into the intestines,
make the sausage, and then put it on the grill.
Because Kenyans are farmers, you know?
Very good farmers.
Of course.
And if you go more to the North, you'll find like one family with maybe 10,000 goats per family.
10,000 goats?
Yeah.
I think what makes this meal, though, is the pairing of all the vegetables.
Like the meat's good, but having meat alone?
No, that's when the vegetables are there.
Very common throughout all of Kenya, except for this dish.
This one's only with which tribe?
Kikuyu tribe.
Yes, Kikuyu tribe.
We are now in Kikuyu area.
Okay.
It's kind of a central area of Kenya.
Oh, okay, nice.
Yeah, and most of the dominating tribe in central Kenya.
I mean, this is fantastic.
Mashed potatoes with corn.
So it's a little chunky, too.
I think there's, what else is in here?
Some onion.
All right, so it's green because they put some coloring in it.
All right, guys, so we're done eating.
I'm extremely full.
We did not finish it all, so we're taking it home.
We're now going to go get some sugarcane juice.
I hope, because I need something to lift me up.
Natural sugar, let's go.
$4,200, so it's like $38, you said?
$38, which I think is a great deal for what we had.
We had a huge 3.4 kilo goat.
Goat meat.
Goat meat, a lot.
All here.
Yeah, it's all right there in him.
He ate it all.
All here, not me alone.
I'm joking, I'm joking.
All right, so let me pay this, and we're ready to go.
And let's find some sugarcane juice.
After that, we'll get the sausage.
And yeah, let's continue.
Look, I pulled out, I changed $500, and then it's so much, right?
Dude, it was so much.
Each one of these is the biggest bill, right?
$1,000 is the biggest bill.
We have the butcher there going ham on that goat.
Guys, come to this restaurant.
Have the best meat ever.
All right, so we're going this way?
Yeah, so me and Tasos both traveled.
Over a day to get to Kenya.
I came from Miami.
He came from Spain.
He had two connections.
I had one, but long layover.
So long journey to get here.
So we're destroyed.
It's okay, we'll survive this.
We'll make this happen, right?
So we're looking for some sugarcane juice so we can elevate our feeling right now.
And yeah, we'll continue.
Here we go.
This place is called Real Juice.
So what do we do right now?
Well, he just brought out this extracting machine.
And this is how they extract the sugarcane juice from the cane, right?
So just put it right in here.
As you can see, he shoved it in here.
He twisted it like 10 times.
Then he added ginger.
He added lime.
It's going to be so good.
It's going to bring us back to life, right?
Oh, right there.
Oh, look, look, look, look, look, look.
Finish it, bro.
Finish it.
All right, here we go.
Sugarcane juice pure with some lemon, some ginger.
Whoa, that is pungent.
Wow, incredible amount of ginger, huh?
I think I need another one, right?
Two more, two more, two more, please.
I'm like, that wasn't enough.
That was a small glass, man.
So one more?
I'm out of here.
We made it.
Kenya, day one.
Nothing better.
Nothing else added.
No sugar besides sugarcane.
It's a different type of sugar, right?
It really gives you energy.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
It's not like white sugar.
White sugar.
And they put so much ginger in this one.
I know.
Me too.
Wow.
Whoa, my eyes are opening up, actually.
Should we go on?
Yeah, let's go.
So how much was it?
So it was 300 for a total of six glasses.
That's around 50 cents a cup.
Deal.
Like, I mean, that's a deal.
Thank you very much.
Awesome.
We're learning something.
Let's go.
Vincent.
You good, bro?
Me too.
I'm ready.
Izzy.
Some sugarcane juice.
We didn't want to walk 30 minutes again.
So we just drove two minutes.
And over here, we got a lot of street food vendors.
Got some vegetable vendors.
Crossing, right?
Yeah.
All right.
What up?
Wow.
It's amazing.
Hey, buddy.
African sausage.
Mutura.
Yeah.
So mutura is minced beef mixed with some herbs.
And they put it into the cow intestines, right?
And they also pair it with like a tomato.
I guess they have tomato juice, right?
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
So you pair this together and that has some chili as well, right?
So how many of these do you do?
Just do all the intestines until it's done, right?
Yeah.
And then do you sell this in the street?
Just outside right there.
Okay, wow.
No, it's good, it's good.
So I can't wait to try it.
We're going to put it on the grill right there.
We're going to eat right now?
Yeah.
My man, Dennis.
Amazing.
Oh, it smells great though.
You guys have no idea.
The aroma coming out of here.
I think it's these herbs though, right?
These herbs are just like very aromatic.
Smell that.
So you do this every day?
Yeah, every day, every day.
Every day?
Every day.
Every day, wow.
And so when people buy this, they buy a big plate
or they just buy pieces and then they always pair it.
Setting up the fire right here.
He like puts it all together, right?
All the sauces together and then he takes this grill out to the street
and then people come and they buy from him.
But right now he's going to do it for us special.
Just right here.
And I like this grill.
It's like slanted, right?
It's different.
Got a stopper, maybe put some here.
So if you want to lower it a bit lower, just pull the stopper up here
and then you're good to go.
Lower it down.
There we go.
So we have our fire getting ready for the matura.
So quick change of plans.
He's like, you know what?
Let's take this outside.
Let me do it the correct way.
I'm going to put this thing.
I'm going to fill this thing up with a lot of sausages.
I'm ready, I'm ready.
Hot enough?
That's how we do it.
Like that.
Stick another piece there.
Only here.
Like that.
Make sure.
10 minutes.
We'll be ready.
There's chili.
Salt.
Salt in there.
Mix it like that.
Let's wait for some minutes.
These are small intestine in this one.
Very nice.
Oh, I'm sure they're nice.
After 30 minutes, we're finally grilling the mutura.
Beef sausage, African style.
On the side, we have some boiled beef and we also have intestines.
So it's going to take roughly 20 minutes.
10 minutes, he flips.
Then 10 minutes more, done.
I'm excited.
What I'm really pumped about though is that sauce because you put some chili in there, right?
Nice chili.
Nice heat.
The intestines though, I'll eat this too.
I'll eat it all, man.
Very nice.
Yeah, I think what you put into the minced meat with a bunch of different herbs,
it's going to give it a lot of flavor.
Very nice.
So what he does is he cuts it, right?
And people come, they buy a piece for like 20 cents and then he just sells it on toothpick,
right?
Quick.
So right now, you're just testing to see if it's good.
Oh, he's opening holes.
Oh, he's just opening holes right there.
Is that good?
Wow, it looks good, man.
I won't lie.
I was full and now I'm hungry again.
Now I'm excited.
Oh, you bought so much, man.
So much.
No, I'm not going to taste it.
Please don't eat enough.
There's some that are coming.
Oh, they're bringing more?
Wow.
So you usually come out here around 5 p.m. and you're out here for a few hours?
Three hours?
And that's it, you sell out.
9.30, he's done.
So basically until you sell out, you go.
Oh man, the smell, huh?
Nothing like that charcoal.
I mean, these like little intestines.
It looks almost like pineapple, but not pineapple.
Not pineapple.
Sorry, just the look, you know?
It's some good beef.
Wow.
Good?
I mean, this is what I came here for, right?
For this.
Exciting.
I'll taste it, I'll taste it for sure.
Some sauce.
Yeah, yeah, I am broke.
Oh, wow.
Nice.
Oh, incredible minced meat.
A lot of herbs in here.
Spicy.
Super smoky.
Delicious.
Very delicious.
Get the rest of this, right?
Wow, pretty good taste.
Hungry, hungry.
Why wait?
So good.
Extremely juicy too.
So every time he puts on the board, he cuts and then he adds sauce.
So put me some sauce.
Salt.
I'm gonna get a toothpick later.
Oh, we're here.
We're hitting some mutura.
So here we go.
You do it like this.
I personally love this type of sausage, right?
Here we go.
Very nice.
Let's do one more time.
We're hitting mutura in Ongata, Rongai, Nairobi, Kenya.
So tasty.
Now it's worth the wait.
It's almost time.
So people will be flocking, flocking here.
Everybody will be coming here.
They know he's the best guy in Rongai.
So it's just amazing, yeah.
Everybody's coming in now to check mutura.
So we're gonna see.
Casting with chilies.
Yeah.
Very nice chilies.
So what's up with the intestines?
I'm waiting for that one.
Yeah.
I should definitely get a little piece of intestines.
Very delicious.
Highly recommend it.
We're waiting for intestines.
I have to have a little more.
I'm gonna have another bite.
It's like literally, we're having pure fat here, guys.
Nah, it's not pure fat.
That's minced meat, man.
It's not so fat.
Obviously, intestines.
Yeah, these ones.
Right?
Oh, this is so good.
Super nice.
Crispy, smoky, charred.
You gotta throw some salt on it, right?
Chili.
All right, all right.
It's very nice, yeah.
Oh, this might be better than the mutura.
Nah, I don't know, man.
What is?
It's like pure fat that has been melted and made crispy.
It's smoky.
There's juices in there and the spice.
Spice, man.
Street food in Kenya.
Wow.
That's a lot.
Two dollars is a lot of money to eat mutura.
It's a lot.
And it's addictive.
It's really good, but it's spicy, huh?
You didn't tell me it was spicy.
Why didn't you tell me it was spicy?
It's not so spicy.
Nah, it's not at all.
10 shillings, Kenya shillings.
But that's basically like 10 cents.
Like two pieces, you get two pieces.
So having like 50 cents is enough for you.
But remember, you cannot have 10 cents enough for you for mutura.
You need more than that.
Because this thing is addictive.
You can't get enough of it.
Every day, you just, after work, you just think of going to mutura.
It's common.
Everybody loves here.
So everybody passing by here, everybody wants mutura.
It's good.
I'll tell you, it is really good.
When Taso says it's good, it's good.
It has like a bit of a kick to it.
But like compared to what you're used to, it's nothing, right?
No, it's nothing.
They just put a bit of chilies in the sauce.
All day, all day.
This is my favorite so far on the trip.
For sure, it's like the most like real, I'd say, you know,
like in terms of like, you can tell it's been done like handmade.
Handmade, super fresh.
That meat was butchered today, right?
Wow.
I won't stop with this.
Just like that, guys.
And then just pick it up like that.
Oh.
Bam.
So good.
Mutura.
Guys, this is epic.
Today, we tried two of the most famous meat dishes here, right?
The national dish, Nyamachoma, goat.
I mean, they do mix, right?
But this one was goat.
We also had a mix of salads.
Super delicious.
Ugali, of course, Ugali.
Got the spice in there.
And then from there, we walked over.
We tried some sugar cane juice, which lifted us up because I was destroyed.
And from there, we walked over here.
My friend Dennis here packed up some mutura for us.
Mutura, super delicious.
This is my favorite of the trip.
I've only been here one day, of course, but super, super good.
Mixed with the salsa, that smokiness, crispiness.
I mean, epic, epic.
So guys, if you love this video, please give me a thumbs up
and let me know in the comments below,
would you ever come to Kenya for the food?
Don't just come for the wildlife.
Come to eat some of this delicious meat.
And yeah, subscribe for more awesome travel content.
I'll see you in the next one.
Then I'm gonna eat some more because this guy doesn't stop.
My belly needs to get full, right?
Yeah.
Mutura, mutura.