On the morning of my first full day in Dominica, I headed out on a fun and diverse Dominican breakfast food tour of Portsmouth!
U&H LOCAL KITCHEN: After watching the cook, Ursula, work in the kitchen, we tried her saltfish (codfish) with salad and roasted breadfruit. The saltfish was tender and flavorful, while the roasted breadfruit was starchy and had a bit of sweetness. We also enjoyed a passionfruit, pineapple, and soursop smoothie, which had a tropical feel and helped wake me up!
BAKE AND CHEESE: Our driver Bongo stopped at a local convenience store for a bake and cheese, which is crispy on the outside but fluffy, doughy, and cheese on the inside. It smells a lot like a Brazilian pao de queijo!
LOCAL MARKET: We briefly stopped at a local market and saw some vendors selling produce and honey. The market was pretty quiet at the moment, but it becomes very lively on Saturdays, which is Market Day. Past it is a fish market and a pier overlooking the Caribbean.
GREEN LIGHT RESTAURANT AND BAR: Here, I got a saltfish bake, which had a crispy exterior and a soft, doughy interior. The salty, briny saltfish was perfect. Adding hot sauce gave it a kick—it was definitely spicy!
CONVENIENCE STORE: Inside, I met a Guyanese man who gave me a hat before we ended our tour!
My name is David Hoffmann. Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,300 destinations in 96 countries to experience and document unique cultures on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media. I highlight culture and historical sites, but my passion is food! I love to experience and showcase the different flavors each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Good morning from beautiful Portsmouth, Dominica.
Today, I'm gonna take you to have
some traditional Dominican breakfast,
eight in the morning, in the second largest city.
I'm actually staying right here at The Lighthouse
on this strip, and there's a few different breakfast spots.
They're all like super small local restaurants, right?
First one we're going to is this one right here.
This is UNH Local Kitchen.
Look at that, they have some codfish salad,
they have roasted breadfruit, they have bakes.
I'm going with some roasted breadfruit.
Hello, hello.
Okay.
How you doing?
Hi.
You ready?
Is she ready for me?
Okay, so we're going to the back.
Okay, it's a small kitchen.
No, no problem, thank you so much.
I'm still getting hungry.
What's your name?
My name is Ursula.
Ursula?
Yes.
Pleasure.
I'm going to put you some breadfruit.
So that's breadfruit, oh I love it.
Roasted breadfruit?
Yes.
It's the best.
Mm-hmm.
I'm going to put you some lettuce.
Some fresh lettuce?
Yes, some fresh lettuce.
I'm going to use my hands, though, to make it easier.
No problem.
Okay.
I wasn't quite ready, and my staff is late.
No problem.
I have some of the salad.
They have codfish salad here.
I try to encourage vegetables.
Yeah, of course.
This, okay, a little shaky.
You're nervous, why are you nervous?
Okay, actually, well, because.
Nay, are you nervous?
I'm a little nervous, man.
Oh, man, you are.
Big deal over here, man.
You are nervous, too.
No.
Okay, I made this dressing myself, so it's nice.
We can have this, because it's, take me the salt fish.
You're going to have this,
then after I'm going to make you the smoothie, okay?
The smoothie as well?
I'm going to make you a smoothie.
Here we go.
I'm going to make you the smoothie.
Oh, so we're making a smoothie as well.
So she started making breakfast yesterday.
Yes.
So I'm one of your first customers, huh?
I'll do a little.
No, no problem.
So it's salt fish with roasted breadfruit.
Breadfruit is a staple here,
staple in most of the West Indies, right?
Yes.
So what are you doing there?
I'm going to cut this, right?
You can have that.
I'm going to cut it, and then you have it,
and the smoothie, you get to go.
And this is it, our breakfast.
Salt fish, or cod fish.
You got beautiful salads on the side,
and you have breadfruit.
So the best thing to do, Nate, is this.
Add it to the top.
Let's say that.
Mm-hmm.
All right.
Mm-hmm.
Oh, wow.
That is good.
Oh, wow.
I love it.
Salt fish.
Mm.
With the onions, the breadfruit's so soft, huh?
Yeah, it's really soft.
It's really nice.
Mm.
And avocado now.
Mm-hmm.
Avocado's like creamy.
Yeah, it's really good.
Mm.
Breadfruit makes for the saltiness of the fish, right?
You know, I feel like with breadfruit,
they misnamed it, bro.
They misnamed it?
Well, it's a fruit that has bread, right?
It's like a potato.
What I have to do is I have to add everything.
That makes sense.
Look at this.
You go like that.
Let me get some of the avocado on top, too.
Make it a nice bite, right?
Here we go.
Mm-hmm.
Mm.
Nice and filling.
What an incredible dish.
Simple, yet delicious.
Look at this.
Dominica.
Mm-hmm.
No, breadfruit, staple.
Yeah, I haven't had a lot of breadfruit in my days.
Yeah, we're gonna see if on this trip
we'll find some guys roasting breadfruit.
They usually do it like at somebody's house
or on the side of the road.
Maybe some restaurants do it as well.
Did it in Barbados.
Saw it in Guyana, too.
Yeah, it looks like a cool experience.
Mm-hmm.
Wow, breadfruit.
Look at this.
You gotta hot all those goggles, though.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
A little too much.
Yeah.
Mm-hmm.
That's how I got the name.
Mm.
It's good.
Filling, though.
And we don't leave any food, right?
So, put everything on there.
Throw in some breadfruit.
Make myself a little lettuce wrap with breadfruit
and some saltfish.
Mm-hmm.
The vinaigrette.
It's nice.
It's a little sweet.
Passion fruit salsa.
Salsa.
It's refreshing.
It's just, like, lifting me up.
Wow.
Incredible.
Super cold, obviously.
Smoothie.
It's, like, ice cold.
You got the passion fruit.
The salsa, it's a nice, fleshy fruit.
So, when you open it, you peel it,
and then inside, you got this nice, like, white flesh,
and you suck on it, right?
Oh, it's amazing.
Nate, you gotta try this, bro.
Here, here, I got it for you.
Oh, yeah.
Oh, so refreshing, huh?
Should I copy?
She said dragon fruit as well?
Dragon fruit?
No, dragon fruit.
She said passion fruit.
Passion fruit.
Pineapple salsa.
Passion fruit pineapple salsa.
Here, let me say bye to my friend over there.
Ursula.
Yeah.
If I'm allowed back in the kitchen,
I'll say bye to you.
Thank you so much.
Thank you, my dear.
Thank you.
How much do I owe you, by the way?
Nothing.
No, you sure?
Yeah, I make you more delicious.
She's complacent, huh?
She's too kind.
Oh, you're putting some...
Milk in this one.
Some fatty milk in there.
Oh, this is so amazing.
If I didn't have the whole entire breadfruit with the cod,
I would just have the smoothie.
Perfect to wake up.
Oh, wow.
Nice and thick, that one.
No, an extra cold.
Yeah, and condensed milk.
You need the vitamin C.
You need the vitamins.
You gotta go out there,
you wanna make sure you have vitamin C.
Who is this for?
For Bongo?
Yes, Bongo is my friend.
Oh, yeah?
Long time friend.
So, Bongo is the guy who's taking me around
for these five days here in Dominica?
Very nice.
But we have to see some breadfruit roasting.
Oh, you would like to see what's roasted?
Yeah, yeah.
I have this one, it's not peeled.
Oh, look, it's roasted.
It's not peeled as yet.
So, it's not peeled.
They'll peel it and they'll cut it in half
and then you can make a salad on top.
You can do anything with it, right?
I'm trying it from Little Mermaid.
She's Ursula.
This is what you have to edit, okay?
I will, I will.
Sorry, she didn't get the joke.
This is a big world to the world
and everybody's invited.
Please come here, you're welcome.
It's our second day here, so it's still,
but we can.
That's amazing.
So, I'm staying literally down the street.
I'm staying at the Lighthouse.
So, only a two minute walk.
And I'm right here.
Yes, come for breakfast.
I'm gonna come for breakfast more often.
But we close at four though.
We close at four.
We close on Thursdays.
And what time do you open?
Eight to four.
Eight to four, that's a good time.
Close on Thursdays.
Okay.
Come for breakfast tomorrow, okay?
Thank you, Ursula.
Thank you, guys.
That's tasty.
She's making a quesadilla for somebody.
A quesadilla at this time?
Yeah, yeah.
Who's having quesadilla right now?
She's gonna do that
and then she's gonna add some tomatoes
and put it on the dough
and cheese and stuff like that.
No, you deserve a fist pump.
You're not shy.
Let's go.
Thank you.
All right.
Let's go.
Yeah.
Let's go, Bongo.
Thank you.
You made it, my man.
The market, perfect.
All right, let's go.
Look at this.
So, just wanna show you the map of the island, right?
So, this is Dominica.
We're here in Portsmouth.
We came from this area.
This is like where the airport is
and the capital, Roseo.
Roseo?
How do you say it?
Roseo?
Roseo.
Roseo is at the very bottom.
We're gonna stop in this little,
I guess it's like a convenience store
and this is where Bongo says he gets his breakfast.
So, let's go inside.
So, Bongo, this is where you get your breakfast?
Yeah?
What do you get?
What'd you get there?
Bake?
Bacon cheese.
Oh, bacon cheese.
Yeah, they have bacon.
Okay.
So, it smells like Pão de Queijo.
It smells like a Brazilian cheese bread.
Okay.
Yeah, or Pão de Bono in,
Pão de Bono in,
what's it called?
In Colombia.
Let me see that.
Yeah, yeah, dude, same thing.
Same thing.
Very similar.
And what's that?
Tangerine juice.
Okay.
Yeah, but with extra grapefruit.
Grapefruit.
So, when we go to Silicon,
we're gonna get to see tangerine and grapefruit.
Okay.
On the trees.
Awesome.
We're gonna do panels, all right?
Okay, and you know what?
I'll try one of, like, what you're having.
I'm gonna try one so I can show you guys
what it looks like, what it tastes like.
And as you can see, this is a convenience store.
So, this is, you know, local, small convenience store
that got, like, necessities for the household, right?
You got coffees, you have beans.
What else we got?
We got some cereal.
Each section's different.
You got baby wipes.
You have, you know, stuff for the kitchen.
Some Tupperwares, right?
Keep going.
They have fresh eggs.
Obviously, Adobo.
My God, from Goya.
And then, if you keep going around,
you got more beans, flours, different things.
And I wanna show you something cool.
So, this is the flag of the country.
Here's the flag.
Look at this.
And this is their bird, right?
And it's the only flag in the world.
There's only two flags in the world
that have purple on their flag.
Oh, and this is it?
Nicaragua's the other one.
Oh, Nicaragua's the other one.
Yeah, Nicaragua's the other one.
I was there.
Here, let me show you this.
Let's do it right here.
Ready?
Let's show this.
So, what is this called again?
A cheese bake, right?
Yeah, all the way.
Right here.
Oh, it smells great.
Look at that.
So, it's a mix of some cheese, creamy cheese in there.
This is small bread, right?
And then, what do we do?
Let's take a bite.
I love bakes.
Nice, crispy outside.
Inside, super doughy.
Oh, with the cheese.
Look at this, guys.
Look at that.
Oh, the cheese just like burst out.
Nice, cheesy, fluffy.
A little crisp.
It's good, and what was this?
Like a dollar?
$2.50.
$2.50 for this?
It was like a dollar US.
A dollar US.
It's good, it's good.
Nice little bite.
I like it.
It crisps up.
Quick, fast food.
Let's go.
All right, Mongo, stop eating all my cheese, man.
That cheese is the main charger?
That's the main charger.
Catholic, yeah.
Is that the main one on the island, or?
Catholic, man.
Snack it, but currently they're a little busy,
so we're gonna keep going.
We're gonna walk right here to this market.
Okay, so this is the market.
They say it's way more lively on Saturday.
Saturday is market day, so just so you guys know that.
So over here, what do we got?
We have a vendor selling a mix of things.
Hi, how you doing?
Morning.
So you got some potatoes.
She has avocados, some nice onions.
Can I see?
Nice little onions.
How's everything, good?
Fantastic, fantastic.
Bless the day.
How you doing, man?
How you doing, boss?
I'm okay, I'm okay.
Let me see what else you got.
So there's a bunch of different fruits and vegetables.
Looks like they have over here, let me see what this is.
It's like honey, right?
Could be honey.
Busy, pure honey.
You selling honey?
Yeah, how many bottles do you want?
How many bottles?
I mean, what do you have?
Is it pure?
Pure Dominican honey.
So what does a bottle like that cost?
Okay, you want the small one, $20,
and the medium size, we get it $50.
We ask you what that one, how much it cost,
what that cost, like that.
That's okay, I mean.
Bless the day.
Okay, no problem, no problem.
She's okay.
I think she was a little shy for the camera, but it's okay.
So Bongo, so this is where the market is?
Yes, and this is where I actually grew up.
This is where you grew up?
Yeah, this was where I grew up.
Right here?
It was like ruins, and we had the boots that are here.
They used to be pulling them up on the sand.
Oh, wow.
Okay, but this is like a fish market over here.
Yeah, the fish market is in here.
So this is a market for local provisioning.
So on Saturday, it gets really lively.
I think this Saturday is going to be,
market day for the friends is going to be decorated.
A lot of-
So we're coming here this Saturday, right?
Saturday, yeah.
We'll see this, perfect.
Yeah, and then the boats, they come in here, the fishes,
and this is the complex where they sell the fish at.
So this is where they sell the fish,
and here's where they, what, they clean it,
or they bring them on?
No, no, no, here it's just for food.
Oh, just for food, okay, got it.
So this is where the fish is, this is everything else.
And then over here at the very end,
we have like a little dock, right, a little pier.
So come, come, let's see the pier.
It's nice.
Love this.
I mean, wherever you are in Dominica,
you're going to see ocean, Caribbean Sea, Atlantic Ocean.
This is the Caribbean,
because we are on the west side of the island right now.
Beautiful, hey, how you doing?
Morning.
Bless the day, bless the day.
So we have a bunch of boats.
These are all like little speed boats, right?
Look at this, beautiful.
Santa Maria, obviously.
Very Christian country, right?
Keep going.
All right, I'm taking my clothes off.
I'm taking a dip, bro.
It's incredible, look at that.
Beautiful.
So that's like northwest over there in the mountains.
That is how the whole island is.
If you go around, if you keep looking,
look at this, look at this.
All of this is mountains.
We've got rainforest, we have eight volcanoes.
I think we should keep going,
see what else we can find in terms of food.
And yeah, let's keep going, man.
Let's go.
The sun is blazing, nine in the morning.
The sun is cooking me.
So if you're wondering why all these boats
are pulled up here.
Tell me, tell me.
Because we're in the hurricane season.
Oh.
And we had,
when,
this hurricane that went up.
Yeah, it's a iron, yeah, yeah.
Yeah, yeah.
So when the hurricane passed,
they had to take everything out.
And Fiona.
So then the fishers, they got their boats up here.
So they're gonna leave it here for the most part
until the hurricane season.
Is over.
Ends October 31st, that's the.
That's the date.
So just so you guys know,
if you ever go to any Caribbean island
in between July and November, let's say,
prepare because there might be hurricanes.
This island, unfortunately, has been hit multiple times.
The last one that hit was Maria?
Yes.
Maria was the catastrophic hurricane
that passed through here.
I think it's 07.
Am I crazy?
I don't even remember the dates.
17.
2017, 2017.
Yeah, and it also.
It's the 18th.
It also destroyed Puerto Rico, right?
But yeah, so very unfortunate.
But you know, this is what we deal with
living in the tropics.
Let's continue.
You good, man?
You good?
Itching.
Oh, dude, you broke my hand.
I want five push-ups, five.
Five?
Well, I could do a hundred, dude.
But I'm not gonna do it with this.
I'm gonna do it like this.
I mean, what am I, all day?
I could do this all day.
Come on.
That's awesome, that's awesome.
Dominica, Dominica.
Africa.
Love it.
The lion.
Like a lion in Zion.
Oh, look at this guy.
It's amazing.
Awesome, bro.
Hey, peace, peace.
Let's go, let's go.
Next, we're gonna stop at one more restaurant
here in Portsmouth.
I mean, this is breakfast, right?
So, we started at eight in the morning.
It's already almost 10.
We've been going around.
We went to like five different spots.
All in the same area, right?
We've just been driving to speed up the process.
Plus, it's really, really sunny right now.
Really hot.
And look at this.
Beautiful.
Because I got my jacket.
Okay, so we just like literally did a loop
and here we are.
Another little spot.
Green Light Restaurant and Bar.
They still got some breakfast.
You know, breakfast starts here at seven in the morning
and it's already 10.
So, they're sort of running out of breakfast
but there's still some like street food style breakfast
here which are basically bakes, right?
So, here we have two different bakes.
I think this is the salt fish one
which is what I like the most.
And then next to it, we have like almost
like a chicken empanada.
I mean, it looks like an empanada, right?
Then over here, we have maduros.
So, that's sweet plantains.
And on the side, we have some vinaigrette
and some hot sauce.
So, when a gentleman comes out, I'll order this
and maybe we try something else or maybe just this.
This looks good.
Which one?
Which one you like?
Yes.
That's what I like too.
This is the bake with salt fish.
Beautiful salt fish inside there.
And you know what?
I'm gonna take one bite without hot sauce.
Next one with.
Crispy, doughy, salty.
Now, let's open this up.
Thank you.
A little tough here.
And there's some nice hot sauce.
Look at that, right?
There we go.
That's some pepper.
Nice, easy, quick street food.
Probably really affordable.
How much is this one?
That's only $3.
$3?
It's like $1.50 US?
Yeah, it's like $1.50.
I'm feeling the heat.
It's not, you put a lot of pepper.
Yeah.
You put too much.
Never too much.
Serious go.
This is good.
It is fire.
That's a lot of pepper.
I mean, for me, this is a quick thing.
If I have to like go on a, I don't know,
drive about an hour, get something like this on the go,
quickly with my coffee.
Oh, ooh, it's hot.
It's hot.
It's good with the coffee.
Hey, thank you so much.
Appreciate it.
So good.
Tasty.
Saltfish and bake, green light restaurant.
I love it.
Super chill.
Way to relax for me.
I'm from Miami.
I need something super intense.
And you know what?
My friend here is from Guyana.
He's like, I have a gift for you.
My man, how are you doing?
I'll give you a hat because it can get hot.
A hat?
Whoa.
Yeah.
This is nice.
No, no.
We need the purple one.
We need the purple one, no?
It's cool.
What do you guys think of the hat?
Let's see over here.
Let's see.
Let me see in the mirror.
Well, I was actually thinking getting one of these
for my head.
You know, a quick scarf.
This is cool though.
I mean, if I'm going somewhere super hot,
let me see how I look.
Is this Dominican or is this a Guyanese?
Well, now I'm in Dominica.
This is awesome.
This is beautiful.
I love the hat.
Are you sure?
Yeah?
This guy's too kind.
Look at him, look at him.
He's too nice.
Here.
Oh my God.
On Friday, Chapo Pai Day.
Chapo Pai Day.
That's awesome.
Thank you.
On Friday.
Chapo Pai Day.
So Friday, we'll wear this hat.
I mean, I think we look great, right?
I was gonna hit you.
I mean, especially with the sun.
This is awesome.
Some Chinaman.
Cause the rice paddy feels, you know, this is awesome.
Oh, and the flag too.
Nate, Nate.
Let's go.
This is it.
We're official Dominicans now.
That's it.
Officially Dominican.
That's it.
From the West Indies, not from the Republic.
My man.
Thank you so much.
Thank you.
And that's my morning here in Portsmouth.
We had traditional breakfast.
I got a hat.
This is great to cover the sun, right?
Oh my God.
It's tight.
Let me take this off.
But yeah, so we had breakfast, right?
We walked around from eight in the morning
to around 11, three hours.
We stopped at three spots, right?
But again, in terms of breakfast,
that's sort of how it is.
Bakes, salt fish.
You have breadfruit.
And then look over here.
Like incredible.
We have the Caribbean Sea right there.
This is how the houses are.
Really old, rustic.
You know, we're staying literally right there.
That's the lighthouse.
That's where I'm staying.
It's my Airbnb.
Not that building, the one next to it.
We have incredible views.
This is the place you should stay at.
These are the places you should visit for breakfast.
You could do this easily.
Again, three hours.
Just try a bunch of stuff.
Walk around and that's it.
And guys, I hope you enjoyed this video
in beautiful Portsmouth, Dominica.
I am super excited.
This is really day one.
All right, let's get in the car.
Let's continue.
And I hope you guys love the video.
If you did, thumbs up.
Comment below.
Subscribe to my channel and let me know.
Do you know about Dominica?
Where is it?
Can you find it on the map?
Let me know in the comments below.
♪♪♪