Forts Of India | Junagarh Fort in Rajasthan | Ep. # 4

The city of Bikaner was founded by Rao Bhikaji, a descendant of the Jodhpur royal family. And the royals of Jodhpur believe that their ancestors came to Marwad, this desert country from Kannauj. Bhikaji established the city of Bikaner, but this fort at Junagadh was commissioned by one of his successors, Maharaja Rai Singh Ji. There are many unusual aspects of the fort architecture here at Junagadh. It is not built on a high rock, on a sheer rock face, looking down on the city, nor is it surrounded by as deep a moat as we witness elsewhere. The towers and ramparts here are lower than elsewhere, and it seems they were built more for beautification than for defensive purposes. Historians believe that the desert surrounding the city of Bikaner and the fort of Junagadh was impregnable. No invader dared cross it easily. It was the fort's best defense. It would be more apt to describe this fortified complex as an enclosure that houses many beautiful palaces. 200 kilometers from Jodhpur, Bikaner's Junagadh Fort is one of the prominent forts of Rajasthan. It was founded about 400 years ago. Till the turn of the 19th century, this remote location remained safe from marauding invaders. Junagadh is actually a complex of fortified palaces that can't be compared with any other fort. The beautifully decorated fort can easily put to shame many a palace. Rao Bika subdued the local brigands who harassed the passing merchants and travelers and laid the foundations of a mighty kingdom. The rulers of Bikaner befriended the Mughal emperors and assisted them ably in their Deccan and Afghan campaigns. In return, they were appointed generals and rewarded with high ranks as mansabdars. The kingdom enjoyed sustained spells of peace and prosperity where artists, poets, painters and musicians enjoyed generous patronage. The speciality of Bikaner Nagar is that it is a desolate, deserted city that has been plagued by many natural disasters. And in a city plagued by these natural disasters, the idea of constructing a fort is a unique idea in itself. Impressive buildings could be built in Bikaner only because its prosperity and prestige increased steadily due to the cordial relations the state enjoyed with Delhi. At one step, you are reminded of the Red Fort of Agra. At another, Fatehpur Sikri is recalled because different structures came up at different times. These reflect a diversity of style. Junagar presents many facets like a brilliant diamond. It is a unique example of Indo-Mughal architecture. Junagar is reckoned to be one of the best decorated forts in India. The red stone used here was brought laden on bullock carts from Jaisalmer, some 250 kilometers away. Balconies jutting out from the palace walls add to its charm. The stone screens are covered with delicate lace-like cutouts. Palaces within the fort are built around courtyards that are conceived as a public square. The fort is rectangular in shape, covering a vast area. The ramparts have 37 towers with an average height of about 12 meters. A moat about 9 meters wide and 8 meters deep was dug around the protective walls to reinforce the defensive armor. The remote geographical location and strong defenses of Junagar kept the residents of Bikaner safe from attacks. Junagar never had to face the ignominy of defeat. The palaces of Junagar Fort cast a powerful spell on all the visitors. A unique feature of the history of this fort is that it has never bowed its head before any invader. And that is the reason that it has escaped destruction or ravages of war. The rulers here had the wisdom and foresight to realize that the games of peace are always more enduring than the booty of war. Chandramahal Palace was built by Maharaj Gajsingh and named after his queen Chandakumara. The paintings here depict terrestrial and celestial scenes. Characters and scenes from the epics and Bhagwat Purana, Dasavatar, Gajantaka, Narasimha and Vara decorate the walls. The rulers, they were great patrons of art. They went to the south of India, they collected art. They were miniature artists, they were ustha artists, they were artists who were making daris, carpets. And those things started to come in because the main purpose of getting them was the rulers wanted to patronize art. They wanted people to have livelihood through their skills. So this was in one way to give employment and the other way to preserve the heritage and the art what they would create. Holmahal Palace was built on command of Raja Rai Singh. Though small in size, it is a bewitching picture gallery showcasing the legendary romance of Radha and Shri Krishna. Some other paintings conceived as pictorial documentary scripts chronicle royal hunts of rulers of Bikaner. No part of the palace walls is left uncovered by artwork. Omalji a bude pada me, Omalji mor na chavo. Karan Mahal Palace, built in the Mughal style, is one of the oldest buildings in the fort. This is where the rulers of Bikaner were anointed and crowned. Used as the public hall of audience, it was constructed by Maharaja Anoop Singh in the memory of his father Maharaja Karni Singh. Maharaja Anoop Singh ascended the throne of Bikaner in the 10th generation after Rao Bika. His reign is considered to be the golden period in the history of the state. He commissioned Anoop Singh to build the palace. and invited famous craftspersons to decorate it. Such fine ustha work in Mughal style is seldom encountered anywhere else. He was a scholar of Sanskrit, a soldier, a fighter, a general. He was a very versatile man. The decorations in marble with inlay work in Anoop Mahal were ordered by Maharaja Gaj Singh in the last quarter of the 18th century. This job was entrusted to master craftsmen called from Jaipur, Delhi and Lahore. It is adorned with paintings of great beauty executed in Persian, Turkish and Deccan-y styles. The doors too are decorated with paintings. The construction of Junagadh Fort started in 16th century. The foundation was laid by Maharaja Rai Singh. The work continued however for the next four centuries and more. Sixteen generations of his descendants added palaces to these bricks hills according to their requirements and tastes. Here we see an eclectic blend of the medieval with the modern, the local with the cosmopolitan. It has been well said that Junagadh Fort is a living museum of arts. Gaj Mandir Palace keeps alive the memories of Maharaja Gaj Singh. A devotee of Krishna, a swing shaped like a cradle was placed here for the child Krishna. Those who made it did so with a spirit of matching devotion. The Deccan school of painting affected or influenced the Bikaner school. And again later on some of the painters of Shah Jahan's court found their way to the Bikaner court and also to some of the other courts. And so they added to the local painting tradition by bringing in the streams that they were familiar with. Gaj Mandir presents a wonderful display of marble inlay work along with mirror work. Art historians have commented that an attempt was being made to recreate a fairy land. The paintings on the walls of this palace are in the Nathwada style and bear testimony to the refined taste of Maharaja Gaj Singh. Centuries before the city of Bikaner was founded and this fort at Junagadh built, the location was internationally renowned. It was situated on the trade route that connected the famous Antipo cities of Central Asia with the ports of Gujarat. On it passed for generations caravans of prosperous traders who brought to this place myriad influences, diverse cultural influences, economic, political, commercial. Is it surprising that the people of Bikaner and the rulers of this state have imbibed from birth a unique genius to blend and balance, adapt and adopt. And this is what is reflected in the buildings, the splendid palaces within the precincts of the Junagadh fort. Hawa Mahal Palace Hawa Mahal Palace is the topmost floor of the fort. As the name indicates, this is a pavilion to enjoy the cool breeze in the hot summer season. The ceiling is wrought in wood and the residential space is beautified with scenes of Ras Leela. To soothe the sore eyes, imported Chinese tiles in blue were generously used. Ustha Chitrakari is an Indo-Saracen artist. Samarkand, Balkh, Bukhara, Khurasan, all of them have a unique style of painting. And the pen is an Indian pen. And we get to see a unique example of the work of gold water in this painting. The work of gold is done very delicately and beautifully. Badal Mahal was built to please Maharaja Sardar Singh, a great lover of music. He was particularly fond of Rad Malhar. As one gazes at the dark clouds and flashes of lightning painted on the walls, the joy of the monsoon can be experienced in the dry desert. So it is a mixture of so many cultures at one place. Vikram Vilas Palace was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh and became the Darbar Hall where the ruler held court. To meet the needs of 20th century life, it was constructed in the image of palaces in Europe. Stone carvings that decorate this palace are quite exquisite. When Delhi was being built as the capital of the British Empire, the Viceroy sent Lutens, the chief architect, to Bikaner to draw inspiration from Vikram Vilas for the Darbar Hall in Delhi. Junagadh Fort is not just a fort, it is a legacy. And it is to preserve this legacy that we are all working hard. Today, Junagadh Fort is for the people of Bikaner and the world over, tourists, future generations, any and everyone who comes to understand, to behold this amazing, amazing plethora of a bastion of structure which is unparalleled. Junagadh, in its long life, spanning five centuries, has acquired many layers of diversity. The palaces here are akin to art museums. Its distinct identity transcends that of a fort. It is recognized as an invaluable artistic heritage that all Indians are proud of.