Day 4 in Armenia started off with a bang as my amazing guide Lusine and I headed off to the village of Garni. There, I tried my hand at baking Armenian lavash and toured Geghard Monastery and the magnificent Temple of Garni! Let’s continue exploring Armenia!
My day began with a drive east to Geghard. I spotted Geghard Monastery as we rounded a bend. There, a woman gave me some Armenian sweet bread called gata. It’s fluffy and super sweet and tasty!
As you approach the monastery, there are vendors selling rosaries and other religious items.
Geghard Monastery is a 13th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Geghard” actually means “spear.” The spear that pierced Jesus Christ’s side was kept in Geghard Monastery from the 13th to 18th centuries!
Then, we entered a cave with carvings on the walls. It leads straight into a 13th-century noble family tomb inside the mountain. It was all carved from one piece of rock! The history was carved on the walls to document it.
Then, I got to witness a beautiful performance where women sing and chant. There are columns and lots of carvings in the corners. We moved on to a church that was constructed, so it isn’t made from one stone. In the back is a holy spring. I took a drink from it. It was freezing!
I had never seen anything like this. This part of the church is carved out of the mountain. There were pillars and intricate carvings in the walls. To the left of the holy water stream room is a rock-carved church. Outside of the rock-carved church is the main church, which was built in 1215. Inside are religious paintings.
From there, we headed to the Temple of Garni. It’s a pre-Christian and pre-Hellenistic pagan temple that was dedicated to the Armenian sun god, Mihr that was built in the 1st century. It collapsed in 1679 but was rebuilt from 1969 to 1975. It reminded me of temples I’d seen in Italy.
It has 24 columns, a main hall, and an altar. Around the back, you get incredible views of the surrounding mountains. The temple was built without cement, but they used iron to unite the stones of the foundation. Futher on is a stone that a king carved in Aramaic that talks about uniting Garniani land with Ararat.
Nearby is the summer residence, which contains a beautiful, 3rd-century mosaic. It’s made from 14 types of colorful natural stones!
Next, we went to eat and learn to bake lavash at Garnitoun Restaurant. There was a woman making nonstop lavash. I sampled some with cheese and herbs and tried making some of my own. I thought I did a bad job!
From there, we entered the restaurant, which boasts unbelievable views of the Temple of Garni and the surrounding valley. I started with lavash with a crumbly cheese and herbs. It was so refreshing! I added a cucumber.
The cheese ferments underground in clay jars. It was so delicious and healthy. Next up was the eggplant stuffed with cheese. It was unbelievable. The greens with pomegranates were dark and had a nice pop. It was crunchy and refreshing!
We enjoyed some 2018 VanArdi dry white wine, which was almost like an Albariño wine from Spain and Portugal. Then, I had a phenomenal dried fruit salad with apricots, plums, pomegranate, and apple. I followed it with a fresh and runny green bean omelet.
Our main course was barbecued trout. The skin was nice and smoky and the meat itself was buttery and smoky as well. You can’t beat great food in a beautiful place with great people!
I hope you enjoyed baking Armenian lavash and visiting Geghard Monastery and the Temple of Garni with me! If you did, please give this video a thumbs up and leave me a comment below. Also, please subscribe to my YouTube channel and click the notification bell so you don’t miss any of my upcoming travel/food adventures!
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last decade, I have been traveling around the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,100 destinations in 76 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media sites.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local history and culture.
P.S. Thank you for watching my videos and subscribing!
One, one, one, one, one, one.
No?
Love it, love it, love it.
That's good.
That's good enough?
That's good enough.
Hold on.
Oh my God, you can see it like starting to bubble up.
Oh, I love this bread.
It's really incredible.
This lady is not happy with me today.
Bad job, David, bad job.
No, that was great.
Good morning, everyone.
I hope you're all doing amazing.
This is David Hoffman from David's been here in beautiful
Armenia.
I'm here with my guide Lucy, and today we're actually leaving
Yerevan, the capital.
We're driving east to two different places.
We're going to Geghardt to see a monastery, a Christian
monastery, and then after that, we're going to Garni to see
a pre-Christian temple.
So this is like, it's basically a pagan temple, right?
But it's not Roman.
It's very similar style though.
And then after that, where are we going?
We're going to have a delicious lunch and lavash baking
masterclass.
Awesome.
I can't wait.
And what's behind us?
Mount Arat.
And that is where Noah from Noah's Ark landed.
Now, let's go explore Armenia.
Follow us.
So this is my first time driving in Armenia.
I gotta say it is gorgeous.
Look at this.
So over here to the right, it's like super flat.
And then out of nowhere, you have this huge mountain.
Arat just like literally comes out of the earth and then to
the left you have, you know, now it becomes really hilly.
And more mountainous.
So the whole country is basically mountains, right?
60% of our country are mountains.
Wow.
We are in Kotak region, which is central region in Armenia.
We are going to be high about 1,600 meters above sea level.
So that is why you can see super rich landscape around.
Yeah, and right now it's the first day of October actually
and the weather is amazing.
In the morning, it's a bit nippy.
You know, you have a little sweater on but then as the day
goes on, it gets hotter and hotter and hotter.
And the highest it gets like maybe 85 maybe but then at night
again, it drops, you know, because you are in the mountains.
So you have both temperatures.
Wow, look at this.
I mean, so over here, it's like, you know, golden brush and
then you have green to the left, whole different like landscape
though, completely changed right now.
And by the way, the two places we're visiting today are the
two most visited places in Armenia.
Almost everybody who comes here, you know, travelers, they
go visit these two spots.
And here we go.
We made it here to Gegard, Gegard Monastery.
Whoa, up here in the rocks.
Oh, it's gonna be good.
Oh, look at that.
Very good.
By the way, this is one of the famous breads here, the katia.
This is for breakfast.
It's fluffy.
The inside is very, very sweet.
What's inside it?
Do you know?
It's flour.
It's sugar.
But mostly they put honey, by the way.
Okay.
Yeah.
Yeah, lots of honey, but super sweet.
So as soon as you start walking up to the monastery, there's
some people here selling, I guess, like rosaries, a lot of
religious stuff.
You got sweets.
You have, you should see the Armenian sneakers.
Yeah, the Armenian sneakers.
I had it.
It's amazing.
I love it.
It's like looking at all the honeys, all the bees are like
all over it and you have the dried fruits.
The very first rock-carved church, part of the monastery
we had here before the main one.
This is 12th century.
We just entered the monastery of Gegard.
It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 13th century monastery
and the name Gegard actually means spear.
That is about the spear that pierces the side of Jesus
Christ and Tadavos and the Baphomet apostles, they brought
Christianity to Armenia and Tadavos brought the spear with
him and traveling along around Armenia, that spear was kept
in this monastery from 13th to 18th centuries.
So they renamed the monastery from cave monastery into spear
monastery.
So that's the spear they used to pierce Jesus Christ.
So, you know, he was on the cross.
They use the spear to like end his life and then they brought
it here.
That's incredible.
What is this?
We just entered a cave.
Oh my God.
This is crazy.
Actually, we are entering a mountain because this used to
be a mountain.
And then in 13th century, they carved this tomb, family, noble
family tomb out from one rock.
So anything you see around is one piece of rock.
So this is like a mausoleum, basically.
Wow, this is gorgeous.
By the way, imagine they did a little hole on the top of that
little hole.
That's crazy.
I mean, it's really insane to think that they came through
slowly carving like this, like in here.
This is beautiful.
I love it.
Look at this.
So you have like four pillars and these pillars are part of
this mountain.
Wow, and this is all in Armenian.
Everything is Armenian.
Yeah, actually and on the walls of the churches, you see a lot
of carved writings, information, inscriptions and the tradition
started from 13th century when we had a lot of attacks from
Mongols and people started to carve the history on the walls
of the churches to keep it, to make it survive.
Hey, that was beautiful.
Super nice.
Yeah, the acoustic there is so special and when they did this
tomb, family tomb, they started even to use the outside of the
hole as a music school because acoustic there is very special.
When we enter the church and your eyes will get used to the
darkness, you will start to notice all the beauty we have
inside and these are carvings hidden in the corners.
And so this is all one rock.
This is constructed.
It's constructed.
And looking on your left, you will see the rock.
Wow.
The mountain is right in there and then they dug and like went
inside the mountain.
So we have two rooms in there.
It's beautiful.
I mean, it's so dark though.
And here all the way at the back, they actually have a spring.
See a whole spring this side before this church was built in
here, this spring existed in here and that was sacred place.
Even pre-christian times when people worship the water, they
together near the source.
I can drink from this?
Yeah.
The source, huh?
Oh, that's like crazy.
That's one thing you'll learn really quickly here in Armenia
is that they have a lot of fresh water in Yerevan.
There's like water fountains everywhere for people to drink.
And yeah, this is incredible.
This is so unique.
I've never seen something like this, the stream running through
the church.
And so this is all rock carved.
Yeah.
This is the mountain right here.
Really nice intricate carvings.
We have pillars.
You have the light from the top.
So it illuminates the whole thing.
Pay attention to the pomegranates.
Oh, pomegranates, yeah.
Pomegranate is always the symbol of fertility in Armenia.
So once you exit the holy water stream room, you go over here
to the left and then this is a rock carved church.
So everything in here is one piece.
So they literally went in and carved the whole church out.
I always say there are some ornaments they could skip, you
know, but they didn't.
This is the most amazing thing about this monastery.
So you see the detailed work is done in there and especially
pay attention on cupola.
There we have trees of life and again pomegranates on the
top as a sign, symbol of fertility.
So every single thing we see here is carved into like out
of the rock.
One piece of rock, one piece of rock, one mountain.
It's amazing.
So many different crosses.
I love all these different patterns and that also is one
piece.
That came, that was one piece.
And the staircase as well, the bottom of the staircase you
have, that's the ram right there.
Wow, this is beautiful.
I can't believe this is one piece.
Everything here is one.
So once you walk out of the rock carved church, you go to
the left and over here we have the main church.
Now this church was built in 1215.
They can see beautiful church.
This one you have a lot of, you know, a lot of paintings,
Jesus Christ over here.
What do we have?
Angels, really beautiful church.
Tadeus and Bartholomeus Apostles that brought Christianity
to Armenia.
Wow, with the pomegranates.
And again, you see pomegranates, graves.
Incredible.
And also pay attention to these corners.
You remember we saw it at Ripsime Church.
They were really huge and here they are smaller, but they
have the same mission is to keep the church stable during
the earthquakes.
And this part of the monastery is also very special because
around you find a lot of caves and they were used as cells
for the monks for centuries.
This monastery is really incredible.
What I love the most about Armenia is right here.
Fresh water everywhere.
Hey, where you from?
Where you from?
Chinese.
All right, guys.
So we did it.
We saw the monastery and now we're going to Garni to see
a temple, Garni.
Yeah, to see a pagan temple, pre-Christian period and you're
going to love it.
Yeah.
I know I'm going to love it because I love everything Roman.
If you guys don't know, I have the Colosseum on my arm.
It's not Roman though.
Here we go.
Garni.
Garni Temple.
Super excited.
I've been seeing this all over the internet, but I looked
up Armenia is like the first thing that popped up.
Can't wait.
This is one of the highlights in Armenia.
We're going to visit.
We are in summer residence of Armenian Kings from very ancient
times.
This complex itself was summer residence.
The excavations show that the area is really ancient and from
fourth millennium before Christ.
This site was inhabited.
It's beautiful, really big.
How many pillars?
A lot.
It actually reminds me a lot of a few of the temples I've seen
in Italy.
Very similar, like very, very similar.
This type of temples existed in Armenia even before Hellenistic
culture, like minimum from 8th century before Christ.
We already have them.
We're walking up to the temple now.
As you can see, very, very steep steps.
When you get up here, there's 24 columns and then in the center,
there's this room.
What is this room?
This is the sacred place for the temple, the main hall for the
temple and this statue of Mitra was in there at the altar.
So people used to come up in here worshiping him.
Probably the best time to come here would be like sunset afternoon
because then the light will be shining on the front of the
temple. But because we're here like noon, we're going to the
back of the temple now.
We're going to see this side.
Whoa, this is okay.
So yeah, so there's no staircase back here.
Incredible.
And from here, you have incredible views over the mountains.
So we're basically in a valley right now, sort of.
We are like in the rocky island.
Yeah, you know, it's protected from the three sides with the
gorge and it has only one entrance and that was the entrance
we just entered in.
Here we have a nice opportunity to listen to duduk.
By the way, it's Armenia's national musical instrument and it's
called apricot pipe because it's done only from apricot tree.
By the way, the temple is built without any cement.
At that time, we didn't have idea about cement, but we were
very good in forging iron and bronze.
So we could use that knowledge in construction of the buildings
temples and right here they used iron sticks to unite the
stones together.
So you can see here.
I'll tell you this is my favorite site so far in Armenia.
I love it.
Okay.
Whoa, going down these rocks.
What are we going to see here?
What is this?
Very special inscription, proving that this area was settled,
you know, for centuries.
It's not just about first century our days, like we date back
the temple.
This is inscription in Aramaic language, 8th century before
Christ, like you can literally see some part of the writing and
this left by our King Argishti the first, 8th century before
Christ and he wrote about uniting Karniani, Karniani land, even
the name is very ancient, you know, to his Arathian kingdom.
David right here.
You see the residence, summer residence itself where they escape
from the hot summers, but more interesting thing.
I'm going to show you now and that is very beautiful mosaic from
3rd century as we found same way.
We left it.
It's from 14 types of colorful natural stones.
We explore the temple.
We saw the monastery and now we're gonna go finally to eat.
I am so hungry.
And you're going to learn how to bake lavash.
Lavash, my favorite.
Let's go.
All right, guys.
So we arrived here to Garni Thum and here we're going to learn
how to make some lavash, which is this bread right here.
So you see the lady right behind me.
She's making it.
She doesn't stop.
I mean, basically she has a dough.
She like rolls it out.
It goes into the tandoor, which here is the name of it is not
tandoor.
What is it called?
Tornil.
The tornil.
She leaves it there for like a few minutes and then it's ready.
It's basically very, very long bread.
And then here we're doing is we're making a sandwich.
We're making basically Armenian sandwich.
You get the lavash, you get cheese, you get herbs and you eat.
Wow.
I love the cheese.
Yeah, and the herbs.
A lot of flaky dough.
The bread.
Falling apart.
And that's lunch.
All right, guys.
The time has come for me to make some lavash.
Check this out.
Got the dough.
She puts the flour.
Roll it out.
Here we go.
So roll it out.
Then, like sort of move it, right?
Get some more flour, a little more flour.
Okay, I think that's good enough.
Spread it out, right?
Put it on the pillow.
Get a little bit of water.
That's good.
That's good enough?
That's good enough.
Oh my God, you can see it like starting to bubble up.
Oh, I love this bread.
Really incredible.
All right, so it's been like 30 seconds.
Lavash is ready.
You go under the side and then you pull up, right?
No.
This lady is not happy with me today.
Bad job, David.
Bad job.
No, that was great.
After learning how to make the lavash, we're now at the
restaurant with an incredible view overlooking the valley
and you have the temple right there.
And check this out.
I'm actually on a glass floor.
A little scary.
If you fall, that's like a 50-foot drop.
But we're gonna have some lavash.
We're gonna have some wine.
We're gonna have some delicious food.
I'm excited.
I'm looking at everybody else eat and it looks so good.
The putti armenia is phenomenal.
Nice salads, eggplant, cheese, cheese, cheese.
Let's eat.
Lunch is served.
Well, just appetizers right now.
We have eggplant stuffed with cheese, tomato salad with
cucumber, very Greek style.
We have delicious cheese.
Look at this, like three different cheeses here.
Herb cheese, string cheese and another cheese.
We have some cream.
We have lots of herbs.
By the lavash, incredible lavash.
Oh, this is gonna be so good.
And then we have some more greens here and this has
pomegranates, pomegranates, greens.
Oh, I guess the whole, what I have to start with is obviously
the lavash and how many they gave us.
They gave us like enough to like feed the community here.
Look at this, never-ending lavash.
So I was gonna grab one, make the sandwich.
Get enough for the sandwich.
Get some herbs.
I love this, stuffed with herbs.
Right in there like that.
Roll it up.
And eat.
I really love this.
It's so refreshing.
And if you want to do something else, just like get a little
bit of cucumber.
Garden cress.
This cheese is fermented for a long time in clay jars.
So they bury underground.
Everything is so delicious.
So healthy.
Next up, let's try one of these.
A little eggplant.
It actually looks like it has honey, got some cheese.
Can't tell you how good the eggplant is in Armenia.
I've had so many delicious dishes yesterday.
I probably had one of the best in my life.
And then here we have some herbs with pomegranate.
I had this yesterday.
Very healthy.
Very like dark green.
Love the pomegranate.
Pomegranate is delicious.
Crunchy, refreshing, healthy.
My jam.
And by the way guys, we're gonna try today some white wine.
We're trying Van Ardi, dry white wine.
Kangan 2018 from Armenia.
Oh, it's delicious.
It's almost like an arbarino.
All right, we got two more appetizers guys.
This one is like green beans with eggs.
So green bean omelet.
Oh my God, check this out.
Whoa.
I was gonna get a little bit of this.
And then over here, we actually have dried fruit salad.
So it's a mix.
You got apricot, you have what else in here?
You got plums, just apple, different stuff.
Looks really good.
Get some of that.
So first, I'm gonna try some of this dried fruit salad.
Oh, and we also have some pomegranate.
Obviously, always pomegranate here.
This fruit salad, phenomenal.
Next up, we're gonna try the green bean omelet.
Get that right there.
That's so good.
The egg's still a little runny.
Soft.
Love the veg.
The veg here is so phenomenal.
Genats.
Oh, this is the life.
Delicious food, great people, good wine.
Armenia.
All right, so here we go.
We have barbecued trout.
Trout, I'm just gonna grab one piece.
It fell apart on me, guys.
Okay, but look at this.
This is my favorite part, actually, the skin.
Nice smoky taste, oils.
Oh, wow.
This is so good.
This is barbecued trout.
So you gotta be a little careful.
You have to go in here and try to get bones.
Separate them all.
Yeah, the smoky taste is great.
So buttery.
Just falls apart.
Yeah, so here we got a little bit of spines.
Take the spine out, move it to the side.
Go in, separate.
Just make sure there's no spines, no spines.
This looks really, really good.
The best thing ever is having this
with some wine and the view of Garni Temple.
Priceless.
All right, guys, that food was delicious.
We had such an amazing time today.
Wow, what an epic day, a long morning.
We started off in Gegard.
We saw a monastery, rock-carved monastery,
literally carved holes into the mountain
and made these beautiful monasteries,
the mausoleum, you know, the church, the stream.
I really loved it there, by the way.
Oh, I'm so glad.
It was gorgeous.
And then after that, we came here to Garni Temple.
You have to visit Garni Temple.
I mean, these are the two main places to visit,
like historical sites, UNESCO, both of them UNESCO?
Yes.
Yes, okay.
And this is not a Roman temple.
It's a pagan temple built in the first century.
So, I mean, it's really epic.
It's a beautiful place.
You have the columns, you have the temple,
and next to it, you have basically where the palace was,
the ruins, you have the mosaics, and the baths.
And then after that, we came here to Garnituni.
Garnitun.
We learned how to make lavash.
I tried.
I failed once.
I did it again.
You did it great.
I did it great, right?
And then after that, we had a delicious meal.
I mean, so many different appetizers.
What I love here is that you have all this fresh veg,
nice fruits, dried fruits, and then we had like barbecued trout.
Really, really good.
Well, guys, if you love this video, give me a thumbs up.
Leave me a comment below.
And subscribe to David's channel.
And we'll see you in the next travel food adventure in Armenia.
Peace.