In March 2019, I spent two weeks exploring the northeast Indian states of Assam and Meghalaya, starting with a deep dive into the food and culture of Shillong, Meghalaya’s capital. With my Khasi friend Paul as my guide, we toured the historic Iewduh Market—Meghalaya’s oldest—sampling a fried jaggery pastry with mint tea, exploring sections dedicated to vegetables, meats, fish, and more. At Nat Khasi Restaurant, I feasted on rice with pork, pork liver, intestine sausage, Russian salad, and a fiery chili with fermented soybean chutney. We wandered through bustling beef, pork, fish, and poultry markets before ending with traditional rice cakes and snacks at a local café. It was a raw, flavorful, and unforgettable breakfast adventure in the heart of Khasi country.
The last thing to try. This is like a sausage but it's intestines right?
Yeah it is intestine. I'm definitely a carnivore. That was so freaking delicious. It was juicy.
Hey good morning everyone. I hope you're all doing amazing. This is David Hoffman from David's Bin
here in beautiful Shillong, Meghalaya, India. I'm with my friend Paul and Paul is a local.
He's a Kasi and that's one of the many tribes that make up Meghalaya and today we're going
to which bazaar? We're going to Bara Bazaar which is in a local name called Yodho.
Yodho and there we're going to have like an authentic Kasi breakfast which is rice,
pork, beef. Oh my god so it's a mix right? It's a mix of everything which you can see it.
Amazing and yeah are we ready to go? Yeah sure. Okay so we're actually we're hopping on your bike.
Oh my god this is this is gonna be crazy. Okay dude let's do it let's do it. I'm a little nervous.
No it's good I just don't have a helmet. All right. Ah dude you're gonna kill me.
All right here we go. Yeah here we go. Through the streets of Shillong. Yeah.
The main reason we're on a scooter right now is because it's nine in the morning and there's
a lot of traffic. He also has a car but he's saying if we were getting a car
this would take double or triple the time. Right now we're like weaving through traffic.
I mean I have to hold on because I don't have a helmet. I don't like taking risks like this but
Paul forced me into it. Yeah I did.
He's like you go on a scooter there's no there's no other way to do it.
So we are right now in the marketplace it's called Yodo if you can just turn your camera there.
You're seeing the local people selling out in the street you see this is called Putaro.
This is called Pusao. Oh wow. Yeah it's all made of rice. All made of rice? Can we try something?
Yeah. How much for this one? 10 rupees. 10 rupees okay. Clam and some tea.
Oh delicious tea very nice and this is clam so this is made out of wheat. Yeah it's made of wheat.
It reminds me of like an elephant ear at the fair. You know if you're from America this is
something you get. There's like no sugar so they have jaggery right? Yeah jaggery is it.
Oh my god what a great way to start the morning.
And I love the tea. The tea is very this reminds me of tea like in Morocco.
Like almost a minty tea. A little earthy very clear too. This is amazing.
Shillong. I love Shillong so far. Yeah I love it. He's having a good tea in the morning actually.
I mean I haven't had coffee today so this is the next best thing right?
All right let's go into the market. Let's eat some more food. Actually these are called
in local traditional we call them sopro or lofa is the English word. These are actually natural
scrubber where you can use for your butt you know. Really cool. Yeah. Looks like a huge sponge. Yeah
it's like a huge sponge. It's very soft and it's very good for your body. So this is the main
entrance to Yodo. So here all the local people come and sell their product from other villages.
So here also we're going to see a number of food stalls and all. Because these people are coming
right early in the morning so they have to have their breakfast, their lunch out here.
And so we're going to see a number of these vegetables being sold locally. Food. We can see
the meat market, the fish market, the vegetable market and also the fruit market out here.
I mean the market is busting and you were saying it's the oldest market in northeast
India. Wow. The oldest market in northeast India. I mean it feels it. I mean you can see every single
vendor. Everything is so old too. Yeah. Oh the smell in here is amazing. Wow this is amazing.
They're selling. Hi how are you? I mean I love the smell. And like I was saying before like the
people here they look more Asian like southeast Asian over Indian. Yeah. You know. True. And is
that just all the tribes are? All the tribes out here right from even in Assam if you really meet
real Assamese and all. Because the real Assamese who actually they call the Ahoms. They actually
came from the Thai kingdom. People are laughing at me but this is incredible. These guys are walking
with dead pigs and cows all the way down to the bottom of this market. And that is the beef market
right down there. Beef and pork market. Beef and pork market. Yeah. So we have another section
which is called the fish market and the chicken market. Incredible. I mean we're going to explore
the whole market but I need to eat first. Yeah. We're going to move now. Let's move this way. Okay
perfect. I mean this market is so like bustling. So many things. So many smells. I mean watching
the carcasses go down there was so cool. As you can see this is rice right here. So they're doing
the rice. What type of rice is this? That's the red rice okay. Okay. And they pound this to make
it into you know. This like grain. What you do is you eat this with your tea. You just dip it in
your tea and you can snack it. So actually this is the first food. This is called rice cake.
The traditional rice cake. This is called Phuket. All right. This is Kumaloi. The white one which
we saw earlier. This is Kumaloi. So I'm trying off four? Yeah you try off all three. All three.
Okay. I mean it's a lot of food so I'm going to eat. You're going to eat. You guys are going to eat and
we're going to pass out the rest. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. All right. So let's do this.
So much here. This is actually the dry fish market. So you see a lot of these dry fish out here.
You can get even these shrimps. Small shrimp dry fish. Then you have all the way from Mumbai
coming also dry fish. Can you show him one? From Mumbai? Yeah. So they call it Tum Bombay.
So this is the fish they use to make fish chutney. Yeah. Correct. So this is really the fish market
because as you can see there's so many fish vendors. So many different fish. I mean easy
like 20 different varieties of fish here. Wow. You can smell the salt. It's like over like an
abundance of salt. The aroma in the air of salt is crazy. This bazaar is really incredible guys.
I love it. There's a fruit market now. I mean how many markets are there within one market?
They're like section section boys. Like a mall. They divide into sections. So this market is
divided into sections. Our first breakfast stop is Nat Cassie restaurant and it's right here next
to the fruit market. Tight spot and there is no tables. So you just sit down and you eat. What
do they have? So you can see what they have. It's an open menu actually. You can see a lot of food.
This is radish, salad, the egg. So this is actually the giant of food. We're having a
giant of food. I'm gonna try. Yeah. Awesome. So we're starting breakfast off with a pork feast
here. We have pork liver, pork intestines, regular pork meat here. We have chado which is rice mixed
with like some meat right. So it's more pork as well. So here we have pork mixed with onion and
ginger. Wow this is crazy. Okay I'm gonna start with the rice. Oh my god. So many flavors in there.
I love it. It's like a biryani. A non-veg biryani in a way.
Wow. Then right here we have the pork and I already see bones.
It's a light curry. This is not spicy at all.
A Russian salad with pork. This salad is so good.
Alright so for the liver I'm just gonna take the whole thing.
I love liver. Nice chewy. Then I might have to get another one of those. It was so good.
The rice is so freaking delicious. This is like the ultimate biryani. This dish is blowing my mind.
The last thing to try. This is like a sausage but it's intestines right? Yeah it is intestine.
I'm definitely a carnivore. That was so freaking delicious. It was juicy. I'm gonna keep going.
And as you can see the pork it's nice and fatty. There's some bones in here so what I do is I just
separate it. Just amazing. My man this is so freaking good. This is a whole different world
of Indian food. So I'm just having the jadoo and the
I love it. And you cannot do it without the chili actually. Oh what? It's hot. Is it hot? Yeah it's
hot. You want to try? Dude it's hot. But I like it. Fermented soya bean and it's made into a chutney.
Just try a bit. Just don't try so much also. A little bit. It's a little spicy.
Not so spicy. We're entering the kitchen now to see how they're cooking the food.
Whoa amazing. All the pots like that. Insane. The one which we just had the first was the
is actually cooking this pot over here. And this is actually the rice or you love to call it
biryani. It's called jadoo in our traditional language. It's the same thing. It's rice. Still
boiling. Still peppering. This is amazing. This is so cool. I love how they put you know the pieces
of the firewood under it. You want me to try a fruit? Yeah a traditional fruit. Let's try it. It's
here? Yeah. Oh this is awesome. This experience is like none other. This is the fruit right there?
That's the fruit? That's the fruit. It's called sosham. It's traditionally. Sometimes it can be
sweet. Sometimes it can be sour. It depends on which one you get it. Sosham. Yeah correct. Sosham.
Yeah. A big seed in the middle. Yeah the big seed in the middle. It has the consistency
of a tomato. Yeah. But it's sour. It's sour. You got a sour one. Actually you can get a sweet one
too. I like it though. I like sour stuff. Next up we're gonna enter the beef market. Beef market.
We just saw the guys walking down from the top of the market to the bottom where the beef market is
with these huge carcasses of beef. It was like something I've never seen before with tail wagging.
Oh my god this is so cool. This is like it feels I gotta say it feels like a market it's 200 years
ago. Yeah. You know it's like I'm going backwards in time here. Yeah true. You really feel the
traditional old rustic market out of it. Yeah yeah it's dying worldwide you know so this is cool
So we're going now to the meat market. So actually out here the number of meat that comes every day
is like a lot. It's humongous. You should see right from the start. Like people really love
beef and pork out here. This guy's axing away a 70 kilo piece of beef. As you can see he just
breaks it down cuts it in half then he cuts it into pieces. You can see they take away the ribs
the stomach goes to the right. I mean so many wow just too many guys doing this right now.
It's a spectacle watching them butcher the beef. It's just something I've never seen before
especially in India because in India beef is like not really allowed in most places but here in
Meghalaya they have beef and most of northeast likes beef. Okay and then now that we've finished
the beef we're entering the pork section. You can see huge bores. He's cutting them into pieces.
Right here we have this guy mincing the meat. So he's cutting into tiny tiny pieces like basically
dicing it up. I really believe that you won't see this anywhere else in India. A beef and pork market
combined with so much action at one time. You come here you get the freshest beef the freshest pork
you just order from the guy you tell him what you want you want pork loin you want pork feet whatever
you want the head they'll give it to you. So actually they're selling out for all the intestine
the the soft tissues that in the body of a cow. So you can see here you have the stomach out here
you have the the large intestine the small intestine you have the liver out there
you have the carcass you have the tongue which is one of the favorite delicacy actually they're
made into what we just had earlier the mix a salad type they do that. Look at the tongue
this is cow tongue beef wow. So now we are exiting the pork market and the beef market and we're going
to the fish market. So that is in the next direction I'll take David. So I guess it's another like
mesmerizing experience right? Lots of fish being like cut up the smells the juices flying in the
air. I mean this is so freaking raw I mean it's hardcore raw experience. Right here as you can
see that's the pipeline it's just out so raw this place. So we enter the vegetable market now?
We're entering the vegetable market the fish market and the chicken market in this straight
line. So we have to go through this whole thing to get to the the other market? Yeah. Okay. So we
have reached the fish market so David just watch your steps it's very slippery out here. And look
at the fish. So there's one fish here that everybody's selling and it's called? Kaba.
And it's a river fish or what is it? It's a river fish.
Pond fish. Okay yeah I mean there's so many of them you really have to be careful I almost slipped
but as you can see I mean there's so much fish there's easily like 30-40 vendors here
and you just ask them for the food they'll cut it up for you. Oh and this is a piranha.
If you don't like seeing animals being butchered don't come to this market
if you're up for the experience I highly recommend coming here because it's one of
the most unique markets I've ever been to in my life. I mean the whole thing is just like
you go up and down hills wet dry there's there's wires there's food there's fish there's meat
there's pork I mean in this part the fish markets are really cool and I mean it's just like never
ending like you know feast on the eyes of your sensory overload here. These are actually all
river fish these are river fish and these are pond fish and most of the fish also come from
the other state of India like West Bengal and all those state Orissa, West Bengal so
we get a number of fish. But every day right because it's fresh? Every day they have to come.
Okay so everything here everything here was caught basically yesterday or this morning
these fish are alive? Basically yesterday. Yesterday. That fish market was incredible
but now we're off to the chicken and duck market. Chicken and duck. Yeah chicken and duck. Oh my god
so many markets so many. Dry fish market again. Dry fish market? Yeah. I'm good with dry fish let's go
see some chicken and duck. Yeah. Okay we just entered the chicken market actually here a lot
of chicken are sold even ducks for example like the hand a little bit out the top so we can move.
So what chicken do we have here? So we have the local chicken and we call it the boiler chicken
the white ones are the boiler chicken so the local one are more delicious actually when you
eat it than the white one. A never-ending chicken market. The roosters. What's up bro what's up what's up
oh this guy's passing through pass through wow so many chicken incredible everybody's like in shock
oh man dude the ducks let me see ducks so we have a duck the hen the pigeon
actually i'm very surprised with the pigeon because i never knew that they sell pigeons
i mean they eat pigeon a lot especially in Assam i had pigeon with my thali
the duck i haven't had it yet i haven't had it up here yet
wow i feel really bad but at the same time i eat this every day so
and that's it we just finished up with the chicken market i think the only thing left
is to try those snacks that we bought earlier yeah all right so where do we go to do that
i will move out of the market okay to somewhere else yeah is it going to be hard to get out of
here i mean it looks like it's going to be a little insane a little bit insane
i mean just so many lanes and by lanes and it's just like forever and up and down and
what i forgot to tell you one thing david tell me this market is actually run by a king
what the the traditional king who he owns this market so everyone has to pay a tax to him
so from the market we walked over to another like it's like a mall slash market here's like
a tiny cafe i mean literally it's like two big stools and here we got some red tea and then
we're also gonna try the food that we bought earlier so the red tea is something like very
is it really hot okay that has to get cold so this is called the rice cake
the red cake you open it all right here we go okay very very very dry yeah that's why i told
you you didn't have to take the red tea you have to get it down right yes
i like the coconut put a little bit more coconut on top yeah should i introduce you to one more
if not doesn't go down throat yeah you need a lot of tea i like this tea this is very minty
tea it's like we tried earlier right yeah so this is puklin puklin puklin what is actually rice
mixed with jaggery and it's fried
this reminds me of something in japan okay there's like
tastes almost like a tofu that's been fried yes but inside
very mushy what i do with this is just dip in here yes correct that's how we eat traditionally
yeah way better because the mushiness and the tea gets absorbed into it makes it a lot softer
this is awesome all right cool the next one is a little bit sticky it's called pulung it's
actually there's a two part of this there's a another one called pudo means it's mixed with
meat inside it's kept inside so it's more like the traditional momo or traditional dumplings and
what's inside this one here there's nothing nothing nothing that's why it's called pulung
so this feels like a super dense sticky rice yeah super dense sticky rice and you do the same here
just use your tea dip it yeah oh wow i told you it's very very sticky you need to chew it slowly
and this one we're cheating you haven't tried no no i'm done
okay guys so we did it we had a delicious delicious breakfast pork feast at the market
what was the name of the market yodo and it's called barabazar in the uh the general way of
saying it's barabazar local way it's yodo yodo okay so we had an incredible experience there
i mean the food was fantastic but the experience just going through the market from the chicken
market the beef market the fish market what else did we do i mean we went through the
fruit market the fruit market i mean never-ending markets the clothing market the book market i mean
i didn't film everything but there's so many things i think the crazy experience for me was
going through the beef and pork market yes it was like sensory overload and something you would not
see anywhere else in india only here northeast in meghalaya well guys if you love this video
please give it a thumbs up leave me a comment below subscribe to my channel subscribe to
travel with paul on youtube and we'll see you in the next travel food adventure in shillong meghalaya
peace