Mario Dedivanovic Soft Glam Masterclass

Makeup Fashion
17 followers
Are you guys ready to have some fun?
I'm gonna get started.
We have prepped a couple of things.
We have prepped brows already offstage,
and I prepped her eyelids offstage,
and just a little bit of mascara,
which I'll go over again later.
I'm gonna take a little bit of shade number two
of the new Soft Blur Setting Powder,
and I'm going to just apply some setting powder
on the lids before we go in with shadows.
So I'm just blending that concealer.
This is the EF-1 brush,
which also works as a great concealer brush.
Okay, now I'm going in with the shade number two
of the Soft Blur Setting Powder.
Very, very little.
I don't wanna add too much texture
or too much weight onto the lid
prior to applying the eyeshadows.
All right, so I'm gonna take a little bit of shade eight
and then shade 10, just two browns.
You'll notice throughout that I mix everything.
It's very rare that I just use one color.
I always mix colors.
So I'm gonna start out on the outer corner,
and this is our new brush that came out with the neutrals.
It's the E6, and I'm just gonna deposit some of the color
onto the outer corner.
Now, I wanna lift this and pull it outwards,
but I'm not going to apply the shadow there.
I'm gonna pull it out into there,
and that's how you're gonna get the most seamless effect.
So I'm taking now the F3 brush,
and I'm just gonna start buffing out the edges a little bit,
and then I'm gonna start pushing it out
in the direction that I want,
and that could be either straight
or that could be slightly upward, right?
And you'll notice I like to do makeup
in an upward fashion,
and then I'm gonna drag out again just a little bit.
You wanna do small bits at a time.
You don't wanna deposit too much
because it's really difficult to remove.
Things start to get messy throughout the application
if you're constantly having to remove.
So just start with a little bit.
You can always add more, and open your eyes,
and I like to also apply with the eyes open sometimes
because that's how you're gonna live your life, right,
with your eyes open.
So it always makes more sense.
Now I'm taking the smaller end of the brush,
and I'm just gonna add, look straight for me,
just gonna kind of add right on top
of that crease right there.
This is gonna further define,
and then as I get out to that outer corner,
I'm sort of connecting it to this area here
that I've been pulling out.
I'm gonna blend that crease in now a little bit,
and then a little bit later,
once I apply concealer and powder and everything,
I'm then gonna go in onto the bottom eye as well.
So shade eight and shade 10,
and I'll deposit the color right there,
and then always obviously remember
that wherever you are initially depositing
the first color, the first bits of pigment and color
with the brush is going to be the area that is darkest
or that you want it to be the darkest.
So I definitely don't want it to be darkest here.
I'm depositing it here, and then I'm pulling it out
so that it gradually goes softer.
And I'm gonna now take shade eight,
a little bit of seven as well,
and I'm gonna take this fluffy brush now,
and I'm going to apply just a wash.
You see, I like to put it on the hand first
to remove the bulk of the product.
I'm just gonna take a wash.
Now, there's a bone right here and right here, right?
You can feel it with the hands.
This is a very overlooked area
that people don't put shadow on,
but this area here is one of my favorite places
to apply shadow because it makes the overall look
very cohesive.
It also anchors the eyes onto the face
so that it doesn't look like there's just two
kind of floating eyes on the face.
And then later on, if you choose to contour your nose,
you would then connect this into the nose contour.
What shade would I use for someone
that has a lighter skin tone?
I would probably go in the same, yeah.
Yeah, I still use, I always mix a couple of shades,
but I would definitely go in with this.
You know, if they're extremely light,
I would go in probably with shade four.
All right, so this is my favorite shade of brown.
This is the perfect brown, it's called.
And I'm going to go in, not so perfect, right?
Because we're gonna do a smoky eye.
So smoky means you can smoke it out after
so you don't have to stress about it being too perfect.
Close your eye for me.
I'm gonna start out by going slightly into the lashes, right?
But you'll notice that I don't like to go thick
with the line on the lid
unless someone has like really large lid space
because I don't like to lose the lid space.
So the thicker that you go with the line here,
the smaller the eyes will become.
And so I wanna kind of keep as much
of that lid space as possible.
So now I'm gonna go ahead and I have her look down
and I'm gonna lift it up and I'm gonna go in
to those lashes and into that inner rim of the eye
and this gives a really beautiful definition,
especially when it's photographed.
Now I'm taking that little brush on the other end
and just going to very softly and gently smoke it out a bit.
This is all going to connect now,
this and the outer shadow and then the shadow
that I apply on the bottom of the eyes later,
it'll all connect and you'll see.
Now also, if someone has smaller eyes, let's say,
smaller than her or eyes
that you wanna really pull apart more,
you don't wanna put liner in here
because really anything dark in there
is gonna really bring those eyes closer together.
And then flipping this pencil
and if you struggle with liquid liners,
I know as an artist,
sometimes liquid liner really is more time consuming, right?
You need Q-tips and you need remover
and you gotta perfect it.
A way that you can get more symmetrical liner
is by using this little brush.
You can line to the corner
and then just as I pulled out before the eye shadow,
you can do the same thing with this pencil
by just dragging out that liner
into the shape that you like
and then you can perfect it later.
I like to, again, have her look straight
so that I know exactly where to take this up to.
I'm just gonna take it up a tiny bit right in here.
There's not one rule for all hooded eyes
but it depends on how hooded it is,
it depends on the look that you're going for
but generally hooded eyes,
I would never apply liner with their eyes closed.
I would always make sure
that the eyes are completely straight
so that that liner is gonna go straight
because you're gonna have to go over some skin with that
so it is definitely more challenging
when you're lining hooded eyes.
Look up for me.
I'm gonna go along the inner rim now
and definitely into the lashes as well a little bit.
This is brown.
It's called the perfect brown.
I definitely prefer to use brown.
I do use black at times as well
but I usually will do brown first
and then go in with black after the lashes usually to see
because again, I'm restraining.
I'm trying to hold back as much as possible
to see how natural I can get this makeup.
So I'm gonna take just a tiny bit of shade number two
to highlight with this matte shade
and I'm gonna apply it just
at the very, very highest point of the brow.
I'm not gonna drag it all the way down
especially if it's like a shimmer.
You don't wanna drag it all the way down
because what you're gonna do
is you're gonna really bring the eye down this way
because anything that's light and shiny
or light with a highlight is going to,
that's where the eye is gonna go.
So you wanna keep it right here,
the very highest part and not in here.
Okay, I'm probably not allowed to tell you guys this
but these are two new shades.
We're doing shade extensions
of the Surreal Skin Foundation.
So we're coming out with lots of 0.5s
which I'm really excited about.
So I'm gonna try.
Yeah, there's lots of great neutrals and golden tones.
So I'm gonna mix 17.5 and 18.5
and I'm using our very popular F4 brush.
All right, so I'm just taking a little bit now.
I always like to put it on my hand
just to get that first layer on the hand.
And then I always like to start right into this area here.
So the center of the face
and then I like to bring it outwards.
When you are applying a foundation,
it's also important to try to have a sort of self-restraint
to try to restrain yourself or edit yourself
because it's almost easier to go in
with a heavy foundation, right?
Because it's just quicker.
You can just go in and cover the whole face
with a heavy foundation.
It's harder to go in with a softer foundation
and then use concealer and powder
and becoming more detailed and more perfect with it.
So what I'm doing now is sort of,
I'm pressing it onto the skin
but I'm also kind of pulling it outward a little bit.
I'm not dragging this onto the skin.
So I'm just pressing it in.
But as I get now to the outer corners of the face,
so the hairline, the perimeter of the face,
you don't want to use barely any product in that area.
Does anyone know why?
There's several reasons.
One is that everyone's forehead,
mostly everyone's forehead and even this area here
is always going to be a little bit darker
than the center of the face, right?
Because the sun hits you here.
So you're never gonna be just one tone.
This area is always gonna be darker.
So if I'm taking her main shade, which is this color
and I'm putting it up here,
it's not gonna be a good look.
It's gonna be a little bit too light and too pale.
Also, the other reason is the hair is there.
So you want to keep the hair neat.
You don't want to get the hair with product in it.
And the other reason is that you will be putting,
if you choose to sculpt or softly sculpt,
you'll put bronzer there, you'll put contour there.
And so you don't want to layer too many unnecessary things.
And then I always like take the leftover as well
and just kind of hit a little bit on the neck.
Just taking a clean sponge stamp
and I'm just tapping a little bit
just to really press everything in.
But the other reason is to remove
that very, very top layer.
And then as I'm buffing it in, I'm softening it.
This is gonna be like one more pressing
to remove the top layer.
Again, mixing two colors, I'm gonna go in with 340.
So this is the EF-1 brush.
And I'm just gonna rub this in here
just right here a little bit.
Now you notice I'm not going all the way up to the lashes
because I'm gonna be smoking that area out.
When you go up, sometimes I do go up.
But that's if I want to make someone's eyes
very almondy and sort of more pulled out.
And I'm just putting like almost a veil of color over this.
It's very, very light, the amount that I'm putting on.
So letting that dry just a little bit
and just putting the tiniest bit right there.
Tiniest bit right there.
Now I'm gonna take our concealer brush.
This is the F5 and I'm going to start
just pressing and melting it into the skin.
And now I have a little space right there
to where I can comfortably blend
without worrying that it's getting so close to the eye.
And then someone asked just before,
like what about for an event, right?
You mean, you're talking about
like it's just a full, full beat, right?
For that, I would still do this technique,
but I would do the first layer, blend it.
And then you take a step back and see, does she need more?
Can she handle more?
And then that's when you go in with a little bit more.
When I'm working on set,
the way that I prep the skin is I'll take a wipe first
and just kind of really wipe the face.
I feel like it gives a little exfoliation
and cleanses the skin.
And then I just go in with a moisturizer.
I don't really, I'm not big on primers.
I have never really been big on primers.
I have used them before.
For me, I like a moisturized base
because I like to use powders.
I'm gonna take now the foundation brush
and this has already a little bit of foundation on it.
And I use this throughout the whole application
to buff all the edges out of everything that I'm doing.
So I just did concealer.
Now I'm gonna buff the edges out,
marry it into the foundation.
I like to use both the brush and puff, okay?
I'm gonna go in first on the complexion using shade four.
Now with the brush,
obviously it's gonna go on super, super light.
Before I go on with the puff,
I am just gonna go into these little areas
that maybe I don't wanna put the puff into too much
because the puff is always gonna go on heavier.
All right, so we're gonna take now a little bit.
And again, remember I like to start always here.
This is the area also that gets the most oily.
And so I like to put that first amount right there.
And also if you notice,
I'm not going on like incredibly heavy with this.
I'm just going first a little bit light, right?
Because we're gonna test it out a little bit and see.
Do I recommend using powder for dry skin?
If necessary, you know.
If it's so extremely dry that you don't need it,
then I would say no.
But powder generally,
makeup without powder, it's hard
because it really is not gonna last, guys.
Powder really helps the makeup to last beautifully.
Would I recommend for mature skin?
In terms of what?
We just talked about creases, remember?
There's nothing you can do about creases.
They are not gonna be removed by makeup.
The only thing that can remove creases
is surgery or tapes or things like that.
So if you see that the makeup is getting into creases
and making someone look older,
you have to use less, you know?
You have to play around with the formulas.
One thing is not gonna work on every single person.
So they always have to be adjusted
according to the face
or the issues that you're working with.
And so maybe some skin or some faces
are gonna require you to use a foundation.
Maybe that is a little bit more,
a little bit less lightweight, right?
So it has a little bit more coverage,
but then you use less powder.
And then maybe that formula works, right,
for that client or for that particular person's skin.
This is the F3 brush.
So this is the shade number two.
It's a little bit lighter.
I'm gonna go first with just a little wash
with the brush first.
So now that I've went in
with the softer application with the brush,
just to kind of season it a bit,
I'm gonna go in now with the puff.
And I wanna start sculpting a little bit.
This is the enhancer,
Soft Sculpt Transforming Skin Enhancer.
This is the shade medium dark,
and this is the shade dark.
And of course, I'm going to always apply this on the hand.
I'll never go directly to the skin
without first putting on a tissue
or without first putting it on my hand.
So I'm coating the brush very evenly,
making sure it's nice and sheer and even.
And then I'm gonna go,
I like to always do it first right there
because that's the area that I want it to be darkest.
And I'm using the smaller end, right?
And then I flip and I take it
and I buff by pressing in.
Make sure that your brush hairs are evenly coated.
And that's another reason why I'm doing this
is that I'm making sure that every hair on this brush
is evenly coated
because if there's a few hairs that are not,
that's gonna show on here.
And so you're gonna have a little missing spot there.
A little bit right here.
I'm not putting it so much under,
but rather kind of hitting that bone right here,
the jaw and the chin,
so that some of it's coming up.
I think it's very common now
to where if this was a few years ago,
people would have been like,
how are you putting cream over powder?
I've always put cream over powder.
And the reason why,
that's how I actually designed this product.
When I'm sculpting, I like grip
because I don't like to put a product on
and have it sliding all over.
And because I like to use loose powder,
I wanted a product that was sheer
and that was emollient enough
to where when I apply it over powder,
it will grip the powder
and make the powder look more natural.
That being said, you don't have to do it this way.
You can also use just a regular powder contour or bronzer.
This technique here actually enables me
to use less powder bronzer later
because it sort of will go on now
and it's gonna create a beautiful tone.
And then I'm gonna go in now with the cheeks.
Typically the darkest is gonna be here,
again, towards the hairline.
So I like to first apply that little bit there
and then just kind of press.
You notice I'm not dragging this product.
I'm just pressing so that it applies softly and evenly.
My favorite launch this year, probably the powders.
I mean, I've been waiting
because it's so hard for me to work without powders
that I was dying to come out with powder,
but it wasn't ready yet.
And so when the powders launched this year,
I was like a big release off of me
because I've been waiting patiently.
The self-setting concealer.
Yeah, there are definitely times
that you can use it with no powder,
but if you're doing like a full glam makeup,
you wanna definitely use powder.
You don't wanna just use the concealer.
And then the more that you use as well,
the more powder you're gonna need.
So if you're using very little bit of that concealer,
you're gonna need less powder.
If you're using more of that concealer,
you're probably gonna need more powder.
So medium, dark, and dark.
And this is the Powder Brush F2.
This is a matte bronzer, so there's no shimmer in this.
I'm gonna put just a tiny bit,
making sure that all of the hairs are lightly coated.
And this is gonna now set as well,
that enhancer that we applied earlier.
And it's going to further sculpt and bronze.
I used Under the Eyes Shade No. 2 first,
and then I mixed Shades No. 2 and 4,
and I put that all over.
My main inspiration when I was very young
and started in makeup was Kevin Aucoin,
was my number one always.
Because Kevin, at that time,
the transformations and the books,
and I used to take the subway to work
when I was working at Sephora,
and I would spend all my time reading magazines
or reading Kevin's books,
and I used to learn so much
while I was in the subway reading those books.
And it was more than makeup, too, though.
It was his story, and it was an example to me
that I can also, there's someone else
that achieved this huge level of success
that I really wanted to achieve for my family.
And he was someone that I looked up to
because he was doing that at that time,
and he was really the only one
that was at that sort of level.
And so I really, really looked up to that,
and it was a huge inspiration to me.
You know I'm gonna use both already, come on.
Is that even a question?
All right, so I'm taking the smaller side of the F4.
All right, so I'm just, again,
this is very, very, very similar formula
to the skin enhancer.
Same idea, you put it on over the powder,
and it makes the powder and the cheeks look so healthy.
And I'll give you these shade names.
The brighter one is from the Brights Collection
that we recently launched,
and then this is from the OG Collection.
This is Just Peachy, and this one is Papaya Pop.
Well, I like, for almost everyone,
peach and pink are always my favorites,
and I used to always mix, for many years, peach and pink.
I'm just taking a little bit of the loose powder now
and buffing the edges.
It's been in the works for a long time.
But I am very picky with mascara,
because I like mascaras that apply super clean
and that are very easy to build
and that are very easy to separate.
And I always wipe the wand a little bit
to get that excess off.
Remember, I said I like it very clean,
because I prefer to build
than to apply so much at the beginning.
I want to marry now these two,
the top and bottom, just a little bit.
So I'm going to go in with the small side of the new brush,
the new eyeshadow brush, double-sided.
So I'm going to just go in,
touching those lashes,
rubbing it into that liner that we applied earlier.
No, I never use eyelash primer, just mascara.
Curl, mascara, and then lashes.
And then I'm going into shade 10.
I'll connect in here and then go in here.
All right, I'm going to start lips a little bit.
So I'm going to start out with Travis.
It's a little bit deeper.
And I'm going to be giving the lip lip
but more so on the top lip, not the bottom so much,
because the bottom here,
I'm just going to focus on proportion more here.
So typically I would overline the top center lip
going down into the natural lip line
as we go into the outer corners.
And I would do the same on the bottom.
But because I want to just slightly enhance the upper lip
and not so much the bottom,
I'm going to sort of do like a half lip lift.
I'm just going to go just slightly above.
And just so you know, the lip lift, what that does,
and what this does here,
that smokiness under the eye that we applied,
is it sort of gives the look of sort of shortening the face
because as we age, everything lengthens, right?
And so the lip lift is going to shorten the distance
between the nose and here.
It gives the look of youthfulness.
And then this little smokiness on the bottom here
that we take right to that very first line,
that conceals that first line, but it also shortens
or gives the appearance that it's shortening
from here to here,
which also gives the look of a more youthful look.
And then we're going to take now and line,
not so much under or over lining I meant,
but we're going to go into her natural lip line here.
Oh, I don't have just one.
I've been into, it's like I go through like for one month,
I love this.
And for one month I love something else.
Right now I've been using a lot of Rich Mauve lip liner.
I've been using a lot of Kate and Erin lipstick
from the Ultra Suede Collection
or Flatiron from the Super Satin Collection.
Bronx Baby from the Super Satin Collection.
And then to be honest, any of the Moisture Glow
because they're also sheer.
And so I'm going in now with Spice Chai
and using this little handy brush on the other end
and just blending into the center.
Okay.
I'm going to just take a little bit of the Powder Blush.
This is Creamy Peach.
And I'm just going to pop a little bit of the cheek.
Smile.
Okay, this is the shade Honey Glow.
And it has a nice caramel honey vibe to it,
which kind of will look really nice with this look.
I would definitely normally take a lighter one
for the center.
I'm going to go in now, one final bit of the Loose Powder
and I'm going to set it.
I'm taking a little bit of powder.
Okay, now let me spray.
This is the Soft Setting Spray.
Number one piece of life of advice that I can give.
Oh my God, I could do a whole masterclass on that.
I would say at the end of the day,
probably the most important thing
is something my mom used to tell me when I was younger
is that you just have to be a good person
and that no matter what's going on in your life,
and this goes for makeup artists as well
who are working with clients,
your decisions that you make today
are going to affect things down the line,
like many years down the line.
And my life and my lived experience
is definitely proof of that.
And so you want to just always be a good person
and make decisions based off having a good heart
and doing the right thing.
And karma will then do its job
and bring all of that back to you.
So I would say if I had to choose just one thing,
I would probably say that
because it supersedes everything else
is just be a good person and be grateful,
live life with gratitude,
even if you're having a terrible day
because that terrible day will teach you something.
So that's what I would say.
Thank you guys.
Thank you so much.
