NO SIGNAL, NO POWER: Surviving Off-Grid in Tibet's No Man's Land | Solo Bikepacking

It's already 12.30 pm. For lunch today I'm having these sesame paste flat noodles. They're actually really good. You just need to soak them in boiling water for five or six minutes, then mix everything together. Three packs. I'm also going to charge up my bicycle taillight. Yesterday, when I was going through that tunnel, it died halfway through. That's probably because I haven't used it in a very, very long time. So I never bothered to charge it. The last time I charged it was way back in Bomi in Tibet. I charged it at that guest house I stayed at, remember? And I haven't charged it since. I'm not sure if I'll even make it to the tunnel today. But if I do, I'll definitely need it, so I'd better charge it up. Alright, the water is boiling. Time to get lunch ready. So this is what it looks like after it's all mixed up. It might not look like much, but trust me, it tastes incredibly good. So delicious. Okay, all packed up and ready to go. This is the trash from the past few days. I couldn't find a place to throw it out yesterday. This is from yesterday, and I have no idea which traveler left these two old tires here. But I'll take them out and dispose of them properly. When you're staying in someone else's place especially, well, especially when someone is kind enough to show you a place to stay, you shouldn't leave your trash behind. It's so easy to just carry it out with you. If you leave it behind, they have to come all the way back here to clean it up. It just gives us all a bad name. Leaving the inn behind me now. Today I have an 18-kilometer climb ahead. The elevation gain is from 3,800 meters up to 4,900, a total climb of 1,100 meters. I honestly don't think I can make it, but we'll see. It's 18 kilometers. If I have to push the bike, it could still take four or five hours. I'll do my best. The road today is just making me sleepy. I'm looking at the pass for today. Yeah, I don't think I'll be able to climb it. I'll just find a place up ahead to rest for the night, rest up early, and then tomorrow I'll get a really early start to tackle that pass. This is the 272 Road Maintenance Depot. It looks like it's been abandoned. From the looks of it, a lot of people have stayed here before, but now it's been completely taken over by cow dung. Oh, it stinks in here. It's got quite a smell. There's no way to get this place clean. Oh, this room is actually quite clean. It's completely covered in messages from past travelers. This character, is supposed to be for a joyful celebration. I'm not even going to check over there. There's no door or anything. If I were to pitch my tent here, not only would I have to endure the terrible smell, it wouldn't be safe. It's better to just find a random spot outside. See that one over there? Or maybe find a collapsed mud brick house to pitch my tent in. That might be better than staying in here. At least the smell wouldn't be as bad. These houses have completely collapsed. This place looks like it used to be a kitchen. There's a stove here. And the room behind it? Probably a storage room or something. But man, there are so many flies in here. Probably because of all the droppings on the ground. So much cow dung. This area seems to be a separate smaller room. It has a window. Ah, this must have been a large room. This is the door. And those two broken openings must have been the windows. It was probably a large living room. As for the main building, it just stinks too much inside. If I push on for another 20 kilometers, I'll be at the lowest point of the pass climb. I'll just keep going for a bit. It's only 5 p.m., still a long way from dark. But I can sit on this stone ledge and rest for a while. The main problem is there's no signal here. I really don't want to stay in a place with no signal. Unless I have absolutely no other choice with a wind this strong. I think those 20-something kilometers might take me three hours to ride. I don't know if there are any more hills ahead. If there are, it'll take even longer. This wind. It blows right into your mouth and nose. You can't even breathe. But I've finally reached my destination for today. Sign, Xinjiang Tibet Inn. Heroes Road on the G219 reception center. Can I even stay here? So for today, I'm sleeping in the hallway of the police office. The good thing is, they have electricity here so I've got my power banks charging. Five power banks. These ones are all at 0%. This one. Only this one has some juice left, 78%. And my phone is charging too. Sleeping in the hallway. Let me show you outside. This is my sleeping spot. And that reception center right across from me is 80 RMB for a single bed. Forget that, I'll stay here. Guardian. Sign, Guardian G219 comprehensive service station. Time to wake up and pack. Turns out this place runs entirely on solar power. No sun, no electricity. So my power banks barely charged at all overnight. This one's at 1%. 3%. 4%. This one doesn't have a number display, just one bar. Ugh. And the sun still isn't out yet today. I'll just make some breakfast. Every little bit of charge helps. Having instant noodles for breakfast. I added a duck leg. Just waiting for the water to boil. It's almost there. I'm actually all packed and ready. But I'll just say a quick goodbye to the other cyclists and then I'll head out first. All right, I'm heading out first. You guys, take your time packing. I'm leaving now. Friend. Wow, you're so fast. You're already packed and ready. Yep. Bye. See ya. Today I have to climb Mazar Pass. 18 kilometers. 101 hundred meters of climbing. The path just follows this valley all the way up. The slope is actually quite steep. I rode for 500 meters and realized I forgot my water. I left my water back there. Luckily, it's only 500 meters, so I'll just walk back. Otherwise, climbing back up would be a pain. Yeah, it's just over there, not too far. Okay. Without this, I would never make it up this climb today. I don't have much water on my bike. Hey there. We meet again. Time to set off again. Charging towards the pass. Up ahead is the Mazar Valley Bridge. I wonder if that's the Mazar Tunnel. Well, it looks like there's no 1 in 100 meter climb today after all. It's only about a 700 meter climb to the tunnel. And less than 15 kilometers. Fantastic. It seems the 1 in 100 meter climb is actually for the Sarik Pass. That's the one with the 1 in 100 meter gain to the summit. Time to put on my jacket. And I'll attach my rear taillight for safety. I'll set it to the red and blue flashing mode. There we go. Kunlun Tunnel number 2. Wow, this tunnel is nearly 6 kilometers long. My teammates have caught up. I'll go through the tunnel with them. It's safer that way. I'll take the lead. Newly built tunnels are the best. So bright and well lit. The surface of this tunnel is paved with rubber particles. But along the edges, it's all just fine dust. It's extremely slippery. This thick layer on the side, it's about a centimeter thick. It's all those rubber particles. When a bicycle tire goes over it, it feels like riding in sand. Super slippery. This tunnel is a 5.6 kilometer gradual uphill slope. It's actually pretty tough to climb. Reach the tunnel exit. Downhill time. Let's go. Kuti, my destination for today, is still 50 kilometers away. Yecheng County is 190 kilometers away. Time to go downhill. The altitude in Kuti is 3,000 meters. And right here it's 4,700. So I have a 50 kilometer ride to Kuti from here. A 1,700 meter descent over 50 kilometers. It should be mostly downhill. Maybe a few rolling hills. It should be quick. Maybe around three hours to get there. That mountain peak to the left shrouded in clouds and mist. It's so cool. Just incredibly cool. I'll get to Yecheng tomorrow. Today I'll just make it to Kuti. The altitude in Kuti is 3,000 meters. And Yecheng's altitude is I think it's 1,080. So tomorrow is another descent of nearly 1,700 meters. The scenery is truly unique to this place. A stream flowing along the valley. This is snowmelt flowing down to join the main river. Continuing along the river for another 25 kilometers. The altitude is around 3,800 meters here. Still nearly 800 meters of descent to go. But maybe because it's an overcast day and it feels a bit cold. Camels. Is it really appropriate to see camels here? Doesn't seem right. These camels are living the good life. This one's got some stylish bangs when the wind blows through them. So cool. Over there a few small ones. I don't know if those camels are domesticated or wild. This is a river valley more like a canyon. Wow where did these camels come from? Their fur hasn't been trimmed in a long time. This kind of terrain and landscape. I probably won't be able to see it again after I reach Yecheng. The massive mountains lie right in the middle. We can only move forward through the gaps between the mountains. Still 10 kilometers to Kuti. But why is it all white and hazy up ahead? It's not raining is it? Today is an animal medley. Didn't I just see camels a while back? A few kilometers later and now I see a donkey. Hey you're not gonna attack me are you? He's not coming over. Come on I've got a lot of luggage. You can help me carry it. Hey a car is coming. Car's coming Mr. Donkey. He's not moving an inch. Whoa he's coming towards me. He's coming my way. He's so stubborn. Look at him. Whoa he's seriously not moving. He's even more stubborn than a mule. Hey this stubborn donkey. He's coming right for me. Come on over here. He's still not moving. He won't budge. He's the boss. He's just that cool. You see a bicycle and your legs start shaking huh? Still not moving are you? I didn't call you over. But when I did you wouldn't come. I don't have any food. I really don't. I scared him off. Oh are you still recording? No. What's wrong? Are you in a bad mood today? This donkey is so stubborn. A car was coming and he still wouldn't move. Let me get a picture of you and my bike. My bike is having a stare down with him. Look a car is coming. See if he moves this time. Oh no. Here we go again with this stubborn donkey. Here we go again. Move forward two steps. Two steps. Let the car pass. Two steps forward buddy. Hey want a swiss roll? Just take a look. Hey come on. It's food. Driver. What is that? Me. A swiss roll. It's food. I have a small apple over here too. Small apple. Can I pet him? Driver. Oh sure sure. Thank you. Thank you. Driver. See what else you've got in there? Me. Alright let's let's go. Not gonna waste any more time with him. He can't outrun us. Let's go. Fed the donkey a little something. Friend. It's okay just don't feed the wolves. Haha. It's been a long time since I've had dumplings. I'll have an order of dumplings. I'm still not full. That 25 RMB meal only filled me up about 30%. 20 dumplings. This is tonight's campsite. I'm planning to pitch my tent here. Oh my teammates that I met on the road. They went to get some barbecue. Time to set up the tent. All of our tents are set up now. It's starting to rain a little. Time to get in the tent and rest.