Update: Since using this technique, I've also improved my form. By making sure the forward sight is perfectly inline with the "at-draw" plane, "at rest" plane and arrow rest, you can see how much influence your putting on your string or bow at full draw. How many times have you adjusted everything on you bow to be fairly accurate but your front sight alignment is to the left or to the right of the arrow - the string and rest alignment? Put your arrow in the rest and look down the arrow and align it with the string. Where is you front sight? Is it left or right of this plane? If so, you ARE influencing your string with your form and thus will never be as accurate as you can. After a year with this set up and practice and everything in perfect plane... my fletchless paper tuning is perfect and accuracy is best I've ever had. Everything is in plane and I've relearned how to have "zero" string influence. But this is only done if you perfectly align all the planes and work to not have to adjust your front sight left or right. Thanks for watching everyone, I'll make a video on this soon. It's exciting and will help many.
How to align an arrow rest without error in one simple step with a piece of thread and some tape. An outside the box approach to aligning a bow rest that will be far more accurate for your initial setup. Hoyt RS3 Carbon arrow rest setup adjustment.
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Video Summary
AI Generated
The speaker demonstrates a high-precision method for aligning an arrow rest on a new RX3 bow. Dissatisfied with standard ruler-based measurements, he uses his background in science and robotics to create a \"reference string\" that aligns with the bow's cams and string, ensuring the arrow travels in a single, perfect plane to eliminate tail wagging and improve tuning.
Okay, what we have here today is the new RX3. My wife and I just picked it up. It's her bow.
It's a 70 pound bow. It's beautiful, but we got home and we realized that the pro shop
didn't quite align the rest very well. I just shot it and saw a bunch of tail wag with the
fletches and I realized if we actually ended up paper tuning this right now, it would be a
disaster. So, I'm not a professional archer, you know, but I've been hunting my whole life since
and I've seen a bunch of videos on YouTube and all from professionals on how to basically
properly align this rest with this bow. And typically, they tell you to take a ruler like
this. They'll tell you to measure here between the riser and the arrow and then here between
the riser and the center of the arrow and make sure they're equal distance and that should be
pretty well close to align. Here's the problem. For me as a scientist and a robot builder,
that's not quite as accurate as I'd like to have on my bow or my wife's bow.
I'm kind of meticulous about this stuff. So, I wanted to come up with a new technique on how
could you actually center this rest to this bow, these cams and make it all in the same plane.
And that's the key. That's the big key is you have one plane and this plane is defined by this cam,
this cam and this string. So, you really want to kind of make sure that this arrow
is being placed in that plane as it creates motion, as this arrow begins to create, sorry,
the string begins to create motion. This arrow stays in that plane. So, how did I do that?
A little side of the box. I haven't seen anybody quite do this yet. So, I want to post it on
YouTube and kind of get it out there. It's kind of unique. I put a string here at the end of this
limb pocket and I brought that string all the way down to this limb pocket and I taped it.
You'd think that, oh yeah, you might want to put it on center, but that's actually not the case if
you want to create this same plane. And here's why. This cam is not on center to these limbs
and this cam is not on center to these limbs. This cam is actually 3.5 millimeters off center.
So, what I did was in that same direction, I taped this string 3.5 millimeters off center.
I came all the way down, taped it, and kind of made it tight and taped this one 3.5 millimeters
off center. Now, what I have is my bow string and my cams, my two cams, in the same plane
as my reference string. Now, I call that my reference string. That reference string now
makes a perfect plane. You can actually look down your bow, close one eye, and you can actually make
sure that this plane is all one plane with this string, this string, and these cams. And it really
is. You can actually use your eye and look up and down, all the way up here, all the way down,
and you'll see that that's a perfect plane reference. Fantastic. Then, you take an arrow
like this one that's missing a fletch, you don't need any more, and you cut it down in size so it
fits just before this string and you put it in your bow. And you'll see, this is how I got this
from the pro shop, this is how we got it back, you'll see this is the string creating my plane
and this is where this arrow is rested by this rest. So, you'll see that this arrow
is about a half a centimeter to three quarters of a centimeter off center. So, when this string is
pushing this arrow down with this rest, it's pushing this arrow out to the left, which is
creating this tail wagging, you know, it would create a horrible paper tuning scenario. So,
this is what it should look like. This rest should make this arrow like that. If this rest made this
arrow like that, then as you pull back and as that string is released, it's pushing that
arrow in perfect alignment and perfect plane with this cam and this cam. And that's how you, in my
opinion, more accurately make sure that your rest is properly aligned left and right for your bow.
Now, down the road, you know, down the road, you'll have to do some more fine tuning and
paper tuning, but this is a pretty good way to start. Make sure that your bow
and your rest are properly aligned over and out.
