Although Assam and Darjeeling are the major tea growing places in India, you will be surprised to know that Palampur is referred to as the tea capital of northern India. It boasts of a rich tea heritage that dates back to the British era. Today Kangra tea is a prized beverage in the tea community nationally and internationally.
The best place to experience and discover more about this tea is 165 plus years old Wah Tea Estate that spreads over a whopping 500 acres. They offer daily tea tours that take visitors through the various stages of processing tea production right from the garden to the factory.
We got an opportunity to undertake such a tour with the dynamic scion of the owner family, Surya Prakash. What followed was a deep dive into the fascinating world of tea that most of us are completely unaware of. Surya's passion, warmth, enthusiasm and vast knowledge about the cash crop is absolutely impressive.
With utmost patient, calm and in depth manner, he enlightened us with the history and the steps of orthodox tea production which includes plucking, withering, rolling, oxidation, drying and sorting. Next he showed us the different grades of tea that is produced and then led us to the tasting room to introduce us to the nuances of various flavours.
Their major production is that of black tea or orthodox tea, green tea and white tea. Their premium range includes artisanal green tea and white tea. Furthermore, they also have a huge assortment of flavoured tea. The delicate vegetal note of the Kangra tea has a special place in our heart.
We are extremely thankful to Surya, Upasana and Kaveri at Wah Tea Estate for this memorable tea tour that broadened our perspective about this coveted commodity.
About the host - Anubhav Sapra https://anubhavsapra.com/ Anubhav Sapra is an avid culinary explorer who loves to travel and explore different cuisines primarily the street food, not just for the sake of gustatory pleasure but also for quenching his deep thirst for nurturing new cultural connections through the kaleidoscopic canvas of food. He believes that the vibrant and delectable street food tradition across the globe has the power to bring communities together and foster harmonious human existence. For more such fascinating culinary explorations and stories do subscribe to our channel and follow us on our social media handles.
AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI Generated
Surya of the Wah Tea Estate explores the rich heritage and meticulous production of Kangra tea. From its 19th-century origins and the impact of the 1905 earthquake to the sustainable cultivation of *Camellia Sinensis*, the video details the precise orthodox methods used to create premium green, black, oolong, and white teas, emphasizing quality over mass production.
The tea capital of North India, the story of Kangra Tea
We have come to know about Vah Tea Estate.
Here we will meet the 4th generation tree planter Surya
And will know the story of Kangra Tea in his own words
So this is our Vah Tea Estate
The tea that grows in Palampur and Kangra Valley
Came in because of the Britishers
They came to India and traded with China.
And from there they were buying tea and sending it to Europe.
Instead of that, they were selling opium.
The Chinese emperor halted that trade.
And that is when the British entered China.
And there was a gentleman named Robert Fortune.
Robert Fortune went and smuggled tea bushes and technology into India.
The bushes he brought were called Camellia sinensis.
Or what we call the Chinese variety or Chinese Jat
That plant was commonly cultivated in the Dajling region, the Himachal region, and the Uttarakhand region.
The other plant that we obtain in India is Camellia assamica.
What was found in Assam
But history tells us that the Indians did not know how to make tea at that time.
What we have learned is from the British.
Due to the Chinese who smuggled tea from China
Tea arrived in Himachal or the Kangra Valley in the early 1850s.
When the British arrived on this side
They found a suitable area to grow tea.
And they started the plantations
Sadly, in 1905 there was a massive earthquake.
Due to which the British left this area
And that is why Kangra tea is compared to Darjeeling, Assam, or Nilgiris.
Was not so popular
However, there are still many planters here.
Including us who are striving to revive the glory and significance of this area
Our plantation dates back to 1857.
It was planted by the British.
However, after the earthquake
They handed over this plantation to a gentleman called Sir Sikandar Hayat Khan.
And his father Muhammad Hayat Khan
Who were from a place which is now in Pakistan called Wah
And they have named this tea estate Wah Tea Estate.
Wah Tajwala
Wah Tajwala is not here
Wah comes from a place in Pakistan.
It is still there
He had named this tea estate.
But when there was a partition in 1947
At that time they had to leave.
Or they were forced to leave
And then they left this
The government took over this.
And then in 1953, my great-grandfather bought this tea estate.
From a public auction
Our family is into tea all over the country.
But when the tea estates were divided from my grandfather's generation
And this came under my grandfather's
Since then, we have been operating the tea estate.
Wah Tea Estate is the largest plantation in the Kangra Valley.
It covers 526 acres.
Also, for the past 10 years, we have not applied any pesticides or herbicides.
I won't say we are organic certified.
But we are working towards getting there.
The target of the plantation is to manufacture approximately 200,000 kilograms of tea.
Depending on the weather
Sometimes it is 1.5 lakh, sometimes less than 1.5 lakh
Sometimes it is 175–180
And the tea we make is the orthodox variety.
Which you preferably drink without milk and sugar
Plucking is the most important aspect of tea production.
In plucking, we have to pluck selectively.
So this dhai patta that you see
This is what we need to pick
We don't pull out the entire bush
Dhai patta is always the new leaf.
With this, your finest quality tea is made.
And by manually plucking, you can selectively pick
You don't pluck everything
Machines have arrived. What do the machines do?
They will pick everything many times.
But we only need this one leaf
The new leaf
With that, your quality is made.
Tea estates are always planted on sloping lands.
Because we don't want stagnant water
So when it rains
The bush will take as much water as it needs.
And the rest should follow naturally
And the trees that you see
The trees are for shade.
Just as people use umbrellas in summer
This naturally serves as a shade for our tea bushes.
So they make a level and do the plucking.
Yes. So this is what we call a plucking table.
If you see the leaves that they have plucked
They are only picking the new leaves.
Their hand won't go down
The reason is that the new leaves emerge
Also, the second reason is that
They are not having to bend.
The more you bend up and down
The lower the efficiency
And they will not be able to pluck
So there are two important things
One is that by having a table
It is easy to identify them.
The second point is that the back pressure is lower.
Because you're not bending too much
Once we arrive at the factory after the picking
We decide what tea is being made.
Black tea or green tea
The tea we make in Himachal
We call it orthodox.
Tea was traditionally made in the orthodox way.
CTC
The full form of CTC is Cost to Company.
Crush, Tear, Curl
This is generally the milk tea that is hard.
The orthodox tea we drink is usually very light.
More flavorful
And when the British began making tea
They used to prepare tea in the orthodox style.
What technology and knowledge did they steal from China?
And brought it to India
Now when they started manufacturing
They were primarily manufacturing tea destined for Europe.
But when demand in Europe was saturated
Tea was being made more.
And there was more supply and less demand
So then they started selling tea in India.
And then
To begin with, how to make tea for Indians
They started with the energy drink.
Which we call Red Bull
At that time, they were serving energy drinks as tea.
For free
If you ask your grandfathers
If you ask at the stations
They used to give away tea for free.
At that time, the tea that was distributed
Was this an orthodox variety?
Which was made without milk
But some housewife
Used to grind it and add spices to it
And that is how tea came to India
Or masala tea or milk tea
But in Himachal or Kangra
We only make non-dairy teas
You can add milk, but usually just a teaspoon of milk.
What is the British way of drinking?
But milk tea is not made here
When the leaves come inside
We decide whether to make green tea or black tea
The leaves are the same.
With the manufacturing style we differentiate
Between green and black
And the difference is just oxidation.
If I explain oxidation
If you take an apple and cut it
And leave it outside
Over time, it turns brown.
That is due to oxygen.
The leaves are the same.
You break the leaves and it releases oxygen.
In green tea, we have to stop oxygen.
That is why we refer to green tea as un-oxidized tea.
And black tea is fully oxidized.
The braking system is hot air.
So in the olden days
We used to do it with a kadhai.
And the first process was
We bring the leaves and directly
Heat the kadhai.
It was done with fire earlier, but now it is electric.
And we rotate the leaves
Pan-roasted
We call it roasting or pan roasting.
But this is the traditional old Chinese way of making tea.
In Himachal there are still a lot of people.
Who can make tea at home?
So we also make a small batch.
Which we call handcrafted green tea
You can't produce more than 15-20 kg per day.
It is not a very large amount.
You can call it small batch or artisanal.
But we do a small batch
So the entire process is done by hand
You bring the leaves here and rotate it.
But when we produce it in large quantities
We have a large machine.
Which is the panner or the roaster?
But this is basically
This is a large-capacity roaster.
Below this there is
Heat
And we put fresh leaves in it
And it rotates
So at that rate of 20 kg per day
We can handle thousands of kilograms.
So this is step 1 for green tea
Which we call panning or roasting
And with all this, all we are doing is
We are halting the oxidation for the next step.
The first step of black tea is in that other room.
So our estate is divided into 40 pockets.
So some are here
Some are 20 minutes away.
So the trucks go from there.
With the leaves and bring the containers
The reason we use containers is that
The heat in it won't get heated.
The air is escaping from the sides
And then this goes to the withering trough
Right now we are making black tea.
So this goes to the withering trough
So this is the first step of black tea.
As the fresh leaves come
As I said, black tea is fully oxidized.
The processing time of black tea is
About 24 hours
Processing of green tea
Ends in 12–18 hours
The reason we spread black tea here
Because we are removing the moisture
In green tea, you remove it from the heat
In black tea slowly
Over time within 14 to 18 hours
We will remove the moisture.
From 100 kg of leaves, we make only
25 kilograms of tea
75% weight of the leaves
Water or moisture
And in this process we are removing the moisture.
Slowly
The cool air you are feeling
We are not adding cold air.
But the moisture we are removing
Is that cool air which you are feeling?
The reason we do this
Because for the next step
Next step, we will do rolling.
Where you will see the machines moving around
If you have more moisture
Then the leaves will stick.
Like laddoos
And if there is less moisture, it will be crisp like papad.
So as soon as you apply pressure, it will break.
So we don't want either
More moisture or less moisture
So ideally we have to remove
60-65% moisture at this stage
So the first step of black tea
Is called withering
So this is our second step
Which is referred to as rolling
Basically, this is the second step for both green tea and black tea.
Green tea comes from your panning machine.
Black tea comes from your withering room.
Loading happens from the top
And as you can see
The plate rotates like this.
And there is a pressure arm from the top
So we apply pressure using the pressure arm.
Will you apply some pressure?
So if you see here
He will just lower the arm.
And the pressure comes
Depending on the quality of the leaf
We decide how long the rolling will take.
And how much shaping will we do
Pressure will come like this
What is the objective of rolling?
Two things are accomplished.
One is shaping
And the second is bruising of the skin
For the next step
If you don't perform rolling before oxidation
Then there will be no transformation.
So basically it's just
Skin bruising and discoloration
For the next step
Loose leaf tea
You will always see that it twists well.
And the shaping takes place in this machine
We are not cutting or chopping.
We are not trying to make murky tea.
We are trying to make a long leaf.
Which is referred to as loose leaf or whole leaf?
The process runs anywhere
Between thirty minutes and fifty minutes
It depends on the leaf.
If the leaf is good
Then it's done in half an hour.
If it's coarse picking
Then we have to apply more pressure.
In that
So in this system
We left it open for 15 minutes.
Then touched it and opened it
Then I applied more pressure, medium hard.
Then opened it
And applied more pressure in the hard part
In the same way, we have to do shaping.
So that the leaf remains intact and does not break
But if you see
Maker's Belfast Ireland
It has the number 1437.
And this company was also known
That they were manufacturing colossal propellers
So it was a very old British manufacturing company.
Which was making a lot of different machines
One of them was the tea roller.
So even now
We operate these machines.
When it's off season
All of these get opened
And its maintenance is done
So the off-season is also very critical.
So we feel the machine has to be ready for the season to begin.
So basically the machine you saw
This is just the handmade version of that.
In the olden days it was done by hand
Earlier they used to do it by hand on the ground.
Then they came up with this machine.
After that, these large machines were made.
Even though it is 78 years old
But earlier it was done by hand
So is this operational now?
Now it's operational
The handmade tea that we make
We do the hand rolling here.
There are very small quantities
And the pressure arm you saw
This is the manual press.
So when we do the hand rolling
One person will rotate it.
And the other will hold it
But it's again a very laborious process.
So this is our third process
Which is only for black tea
We call it oxidation.
You are not adding anything to it
After rolling
We do two things.
One is shaping
And the other is breaking the skin
If I rub it on your skin 100 times
You will get bruises.
Likewise, we have bruised the leaf
After bruising
We just lay it on the floor
And fresh oxygen comes
Comes into contact with the leaf
And changes to black tea
So this is where oxidation is taking place.
A green leaf is turning into black tea
And when it's hot
We turn on the fan.
The main thing is that
It becomes oxidized and turns into black tea.
If you don't go through this process
You won't get black tea.
And the way we get to know is by smell
If you smell it
You will detect a distinct smell
And this happens
Due to the oxygen
First you smell the leaf.
Then the smell completely changes
And it gets ready
Now what is critical
When this scent is released
You have to capture it
That means you have to move on to the next step.
If you leave it
The smell and release
Will go into the air
If you pick it up earlier
The flavor won't develop
So the main thing is the timing.
And as soon as it finishes
We proceed to the next step, which is drying.
So this is the final step
This is what we call drying.
The process of green tea is pan-firing.
Rolling and drying
Black tea is withering, rolling
Oxidation or fermentation, as you saw
And then drying
What we are doing here is
We are capturing the changes.
By passing hot air
Firing temperature ranges from 220 degrees
270 degrees Fahrenheit
And time from top to bottom
Takes 22 minutes
It is a conveyor belt.
The conveyor is loaded from the top.
And there are 6 stages
It goes back, forward, backward
Forward, backward
And in the 6th stage it falls down
After falling down
If you touch it
It becomes crisp.
And it's hot
The humidity was 75%.
Now we have reduced it to 2%.
So the tea is ready.
But it has to be sized
For the market
After this, we will go to another room.
Where will we perform the sorting?
So basically after drying
We come to sorting
Where we have the industry sizes
The first grade I told you about is
SFTG FOP1, which is super fine
Whole leaf tea
Second grade, we call it broken.
Third grade is fannings
Fourth grade is over.
Fannings or dust is what goes into a regular tea bag.
Which is a rectangular tea bag?
These two grades go into it
And these days you will see
These new pyramid tea bags
Which are more expensive?
The reason is that tea goes into it.
So the highest quality is always the first grade.
Or the first size, which we call whole leaf or loose leaf
And then, accordingly, all of this comes together.
And then through these sorting machines
It is divided into four sizes.
So the tea is poured from here.
And then
It goes through the conveyor.
And they are all chalnis
Each chalni has a different size.
There are about 7 or 8 chalnis.
Through which we obtain these four sizes
So sorting and grading
Sorting and grading
It was done by hand earlier.
Now it is more mechanized.
White tea is the one that is very soft.
In the beginning
We call it Baimudan.
It is in Chinese style.
It's just two leaves in a bud.
Or one leaf in a bud
We sun-dry it.
Then take it out and dry it
So its processing is the least
But the most important thing about this is the plucking.
It has to be just the newest leaf.
Which comes out
You won't be able to make this tea from old or bad leaves.
And when we taste, I will show you
The color is very pale white
Very light-colored
So this is how we pack and dispatch.
When quantities go
At one time, the dispatch is about 10 tonnes.
So all this tea will be ready as soon as it is packed.
And then the truck will go to Calcutta.
In paper sacks, our first grade goes
Which is the whole leaf?
And then 2-3 more grades come
And then it gets traded as lots
It is auctioned there.
We don't sell it at auctions, but yes.
The tea auction is very famous in Calcutta.
Plus it is sold privately
There are many varieties.
These are ours
Unflavored teas
What is the main part of the business?
So black tea, green tea
Handmade, the one I showed you
Oolong
Oolong is semi-oxidized.
First flush. I will tell you about the flush.
And white peonies
The white tea
After that
After making black and green tea
Then we add flavors
Flavors you can add with flowers
Leaves
Or even natural oils
Food-grade oils
Like mint oil
It provides stability.
If you
Use only leaves
Sometimes there is variation.
For stability we use
Food-grade or naturally extracted oils
It is not
Synthetic flavor or artificial
Natural-like
Peppermint oil
We use it in the tea.
Usually when we taste
We will taste
When we are tasting black tea
Five identical types of black teas
Like lots are made
Lot 1, Lot 2, Lot 3, Lot 4
We will taste those lots.
Then we will tell
What was good and what was not
It's not that we make very good teas every day.
Sometimes the weather is bad.
It's cloudy now.
So the weather has changed.
So what are the differences?
As I was saying
There are three things we look at.
One is the dry appearance
The second thing we look at
The smell
So this is what you call the infusion.
If you smell this
And you smell the green tea
This will smell like tea.
This will smell like henna
And if you see the colors
If I show you the colors
This is greener
And this is coppery
This is reddish.
This is due to oxidation.
Which we do in the process
So this is good
Yes
But that is precisely why in tea
We call it four flushes.
First flush, second flush, monsoon flush, autumn flush
First flush is the first budding.
So the tea season
It is April to October in Himachal.
Due to weather
Ideal growing conditions
15 degrees to 30 degrees
As soon as it gets cold
The bush is going to hibernate.
What that means is that there is no new leaf.
And what we want to pick is only the new leaf.
After the hibernation
The first flush
Starting from March 15
So that's from a very well-rested bush.
Because you have not plucked the leaves
So it is well rested
It is healthy.
Its natural qualities
What we refer to as polyphenols and catechins
They develop further
Antioxidants
That first flush is always of much higher quality.
And it is sold at a premium
As soon as summer comes
Bushes get tired
Because they are not receiving water and nutrition
So they get tired
Then comes the second flush
Second flush occurs just before the summer flush.
Which is right now
We are just entering the summer flush.
Then comes the monsoon flush
Which is the monsoon flush?
If you pluck a bush today
Today being Friday
Usually if the weather conditions are right
It gives you leaves in 7 days
That is what we call the plucking cycle.
If it rains heavily
Or the monsoon comes
Sometimes it takes 5 days.
Or 6 days
Then you need to pluck faster.
Now it comes into the matter.
That you have enough people or labor
Who can pick it in time?
And that is where quality matters.
Because ideally, the tea is made from two leaves and a bud.
If you see on any packaging
You will always see two leaves and a bud.
So the finest teas are made from Komal Patti.
So the first flush tea, when you taste it
You will see the difference
In flavor as well as in appearance
So if you see it's more greenish
Compared to
And that is the natural quality of the season
So what we call a flush
It is not something we can control.
It is from nature
And
If you talk about Darjeeling or Himachal
The first flush is always the best.
And sold as a premium
Then we have green teas
Two varieties we make
One is the machine green tea
Which is the standard green tea, and then there is a handmade one.
When you taste them, you will see the difference.
White Peony
And Oolong
White Peony is the white tea which is made in the
Baimudan style
So it's the open two, two and a half leaves.
And then the Oolong is semi-fermented.
So between black tea and green tea
We control the fermentation or oxidation
To make an Oolong tea
After that, we add flavors.
As I said, you can add flavors in any way.
So here you will taste, in black tea we have
Rose tea, Earl Grey tea
And this is our take on the Masala Chai
So it's a version where you don't have to add milk and sugar.
It has a very light flavor.
But you will get the flavor of all the masalas
And then on the other side
We have all the green teas.
So recently because of
So much thing in
Immunity and all this
We have launched a new health range.
Immunity that has turmeric
Ginger, pepper
Tranquility which has satavari
Blue cornmeal
Hibiscus
Vitality with Ashwagandha
Moringa
Detox with rock salt
So when you taste it, there will be some
Aftertaste of salt
Then we have Kashmiri Kava, Tulsi
Chamomile, Lemongrass, and Mint
So these are ours
Flavored teas
And then those are the pure teas.
So come, we will taste
Generally when we taste
We usually pick up the cup and taste it.
But now because of Covid
We will try to do it a little more hygienically.
So what we
We will start with the black tea.
So I will give you
Some more
When we taste
Then we usually spit it out
The reason given is that you are inhaling oxygen.
Because of which the flavor doesn't come out
If you see in the olden times
They used to
When they used to drink tea from the plate
They used to do it like this
So it is said that the flavor comes out from the oxygen.
So it is not wrong
It is socially awkward.
But
If you want to taste, then you have to do it.
You can try it.
It is good
Now you taste the black tea
That was the first flush.
Now you will see that this will be a bit stronger than that.
So in black tea
This is the first flush black tea.
And this is the black tea from the end of the first flush.
This is a bit stronger
That happens naturally
Due to the weather
The first sip of black tea you taste
And this black tea that you taste
What flavors do you look for in it?
In this, we always look for a little sweetness.
A little greenish
This is a bit stronger
The body
If you look at the color
This one is lighter, and this one is darker.
That happens because of the
Due to the weather conditions
It naturally darkens
Then comes autumn
The autumn that comes towards the end
That naturally becomes lighter
And then we can taste
You can taste these two.
So you will come to understand the difference
And this is the regular green tea.
This was the handmade
The one I tasted
This is the regular green tea that is made by the machine.
So let's see
What do you taste?
It has the same
Vegetable flavors
Yes
Because we make it by hand
As I showed you the kadhai
You'll get a little fiery taste.
Because it is made directly from the fire
It is not fire but heat.
This is because it is produced in large quantities.
So it becomes lighter
This is lighter in color compared to the other.
This is milder.
Quality-wise, this is much better.
But that happens that
You can make 50 kg or 100 kg
Because it requires a lot of work
If you notice the color difference
It is much lighter.
The color of the peony
That's why they call it the white peony.
It is very mild.
Yes
So white teas are always very mild.
Have you ever thought of
Food pairing with tea
A lot of people do it
Eventually, at the tea room, we would like to do it.
But yes, it is.
There are people who are called sommeliers.
They are doing tea and food pairings.
These days, they make tea cocktails.
These days, a lot happens with tea.
There is a chef.
He has made this.
Cubes
And he puts it in the cocktails.
Very interesting
A lot of things are happening with tea.
Definitely, I think
Tea is evolving a great deal.
Not only those who sit at home and drink
People are drinking a lot.
That's why we have so many flavors
Traditionally, this was the tea.
Then people started
Liking mint
Tea can easily have any flavor.
We call it hygroscopy.
You can add that flavor to tea.
That's why we have about 10 here.
And we do another 20–25 flavors
Which one is your favorite?
I like plain teas.
That's what we do.
But in the flavors I like, the Moroccan mint
Moroccan mint
What kind of tea is this?
This is with green tea
What should be the exact time?
To brew the tea
We usually call it green tea.
2 to 3 minutes
And the water temperature is about 85 degrees.
Black tea
We say 90 to 95 degrees
The water should be a little warm.
And brewing time is between 3 to 5 minutes.
But again, most of the brewing is very personal.
You like it strong
You like it light
There are many people who drink light tea.
There are some who like it strong
But our tea
Is everything to be had without milk and sugar?
And you don't boil it in a kadhai.
We steep or brew it
So you boil the water and remove it.
Then you add the tea and close it.
Keep it for 2 to 3 minutes or 3 to 5 minutes
Strain it, then drink the tea.
It has a pleasant aroma.
It has a refreshing flavor.
That's why I like it—it's refreshing.
The aftertaste of the chewing gum is also good.
So that's the next launch.
In our tea room
We call it Kangra tea.
Yes
The base is all Kangra tea.
After that, we have done the flavoring.
But the foundation is entirely from our estate.
Kangra tea has received the GI tag.
Yes
I think all the teas in the region have received the GI tag.
But Kangra tea
Recently we have also received the
I think we are going to get a GI tag in Europe.
India has obtained it, but we are also receiving a European GI tag.
I think it was in the news last month.
Yes
There was already a GI tag.
But that was the Indian GI tag
But now at the European Commission, we are obtaining a European GI label
It is difficult to say
Which one did you like the most?
I liked all of them.
I think the fruit and flower-based
Mainly
Iced tea, cold tea
Tea is very personal.
You can't teach anyone.
So whatever everyone likes
Some people like it light
Some people prefer it stronger.
Some people like the masala.
Some people like flowers.
So we try to make sure that there is something for everyone.
Thank you so much
Thank you
I'm glad you came.