Call Of The North EP 05 | Finding Quiet on the Lofoten Islands

A winter on Lofoten is something else. Not at all what you would expect. One day it's like stepping into a fairy tale. Sharp mountains covered in ice, rising from the deep blue ocean. Then suddenly it's all wiped clean. As if it was never there. When we arrived here, thankfully we were met with that fairy tale. Snow everywhere, turning everything it touched into a scene from a storybook. It felt good driving along these roads again, that we fell in love with on our previous journeys. But it felt different this time around. It was quieter, almost like the islands were taking a deep breath. Most places were closed, waiting for longer days and the return of tourists. The roads were nearly empty, making our journey feel even more personal, like we had the beauty of Lofoten all to ourselves. We found a cozy traditional cabin, right by the sea. A rustic wooden retreat, that once housed fishermen. It was small, but had everything we needed. In the first days, each day ended the same way for us. Nestled behind a large window, soaking in the blue hour, with the warmth of a tea and the gentle cracking of the fire. We watched as the world outside shifted into night. The light during this time creates an atmosphere that's nothing short of magical. Just days after the polar night ended, the January sun begins its slow ascent, but only casts a weak light over the horizon for a fleeting moment. Until that moment, the world is painted in colors of magenta, pink and deep blue. Each hue blending in perfectly with the icy landscape. As the sun faints light, finally peaked over the horizon, it painted a scene so peaceful and timeless, as if the world itself has paused. Our days were short, with the sun dipping back below the horizon by 1pm, marking the beginning of the lengthy nights. But this darkness was our friend, offering us the perfect chances for the northern lights. And we didn't have to wait long. Down by the fjord, under the iconic peak of Olsden, Irene, the sky came alive. A mesmerizing dance of green lights started next to the peak. A spectacle we were lucky to see for hours. Winter up here is a world of its own. Our fairy tale snowscape lasted only for a brief while. Overnight, it all vanished. Our little cabin felt the storm's fury. The walls were trembling as the wind hurled through tiny holes, making us feel the force and power of this place. Outside, the once tranquil sea raged, with waves hitting our cabin. Going out became a battle against the elements. Wind gusts reaching up to 45m per second forced us to seek shelter and find a different kind of beauty in the chaos. The snow was gone, leaving a landscape cloaked in shades of grey. Eventually, the storm calmed down a bit and the northern lights peeked through the clouds, a small reminder of the wonders lingering beyond the storm. The next morning, the sun broke through after its long absence. This allowed us to go outside without being blown away. Still, our walks with Odin became more about braving the elements rather than enjoying them. But there's a certain charm in making the best out of what you're given, isn't there? The wind finally eased, leaving behind a tranquil silence, as if nothing has ever happened. Making the most of these calm days, we set out to explore the islands by our car. After one more week, the landscape finally turned white again, as if the whole place just decided to get back into its winter clothes, all fresh and clean. The vibrant houses of Hamnoi and Sakhisoi popped against the backdrop of frosty mountains, a stunning contrast that has never failed to captivate me. The low winter sun casted everything in a soft glow, giving beauty to these short days. Yet the calm was deceptive, as snowstorms were quick to sweep in. Clear skies could turn into a blizzard in moments, a reminder that Lofoten has quite an unpredictable temperament. But as the local wisdom goes, if you don't like the weather, just wait five minutes. And true enough, the ever-changing skies rarely stayed for long. You could tell winter had made its comeback when each day began the same, taking in the snowy view from our cabin's balcony before heading out to brush a new thick layer of snow off the car. The town sparkled anew, with its colorful houses standing out against the snow-covered backdrop. Our days were filled with walks along the icy shores, falling in love with details, feeling the rhythm of the waves and the brisk wind on our faces. By mid-February, the days started to stretch out a bit longer, giving us the chance to do more hiking and spending more time outside. We found ourselves trekking up little hills just to soak in the views. Our favorite kind of days, and also Odin's, reveling in the joy of these simple pleasures. As the evening came in, we met up with friends, packed firewood and made our way to one of the tiny cabins scattered across the islands. Together, we watched the glow of the setting sun and enjoyed the serene blue hour that followed. Shared stories and laughter and stayed until the cold made us leave. After a lot of days with not much happening, this day just felt right. We took it easy and decided to see the islands from the car for a bit. Cruising through this stunning landscape, revisiting old spots from last summer, now curious to see their winter transformations. Our journey eventually led us to Nusfjord, often described as one of Norway's oldest and best-preserved fishing villages, With a history dating back to when it housed over 1,500 fishermen in the early 20th century, Nusfjord's charm is timeless. The village has remained largely unchanged, with no new structures altering its historic harbor since the Golden Age, creating a sense of stepping back in time. We wrapped up our day in the warmth of a cozy café, enjoying the view outside the window and the delicious snacks. The weather in the coming days was a dream, just right for hiking. And we totally loved exploring the mountains near our cabin. Come here! The hike through deep fresh powder under the clear skies was pure joy. There was this little hut we stumbled upon last summer, perched on a hill with vast views of the surrounding area. We were drawn back to it, curious to see how it looks in winter. The wind had a bite that made you feel really cold, but the sun was so much appreciated. Feeling the warmth on our faces after months of near darkness was a simple pleasure we had learned not to take for granted. A constant reminder of how special and fleeting such moments might be, especially up here, where daylight can be a rare gift in winter. During our time in the north, Tashi took up ice bathing as her new challenge, a practice known for its incredible health benefits, though a challenging one to embrace. Nearly three months in Lofoten went by so quickly. Reflecting on our winter here stirs a mix of emotions. The landscape could switch from a fairytale wonderland to a barren in the blink of an eye. We witnessed this dramatic transformation about three times, learning to seize the beauty of the good days to the fullest. But we also found joy in the less than perfect days. There's a certain thrill in braving snowstorms and battling against the gusting wind. As our time drew to a close, we revisited our favorite spots, not just to capture more photos or discover unseen details, but also to relive the beauty that had captivated us. And as always, sharing these adventures with friends. Our final farewell to Lofoten was marked by a cozy campfire on the beach, surrounded by friends. Layered up in our thickest jackets, we gathered around the flames, with the sound of cracking firewood blending in with the gentle rhythm of waves against the shore. A perfect ending to our incredible time on Lofoten. The moment came for us to say goodbye to our little red hut, that had become a warm, welcoming place. It wasn't just a structure, it was our home away from home, and now a keeper of memories. With heavy hearts, once again, we left the Lofoten islands. Rather than heading straight back, we found ourselves drawn further into the northern reaches, seeking out the charm of old fishing towns. Our return journey was quite an adventure in itself, marked by snowstorms and many stretches of low visibility. A challenging, yet thrilling drive through the rugged landscape of Norway. And what began as a spark of an idea, as we set out on our journey over two years ago, has turned into our very own mini-documentary. A visual diary of our adventures through the beauty of the north. It fills us with joy to know that these personal videos have resonated with so many of you, leaving the same inspiration that we have from these places. And we're deeply grateful for all the kind words, the valuable feedback, and the incredible support from you. While we initially thought to have this episode as a serious finale, there's a sense that our story isn't quite complete. Our journey has unfolded new chapters, and we've gathered enough stories and footage for more episodes. So while this chapter may be drawing to a close, our adventure is far from over. No, no, no!