I got HUMILIATED by the Worlds Best Female Climber Janja Garnbret

This climber needs no introduction. Winning a whopping 48 climbing world cups, two olympic golds and countless other trophies, Janja Gambret is undoubtedly the greatest competition climber to have ever lived. Oh, and she's also crushing it outdoors, sending V15 along with some of the hardest sport routes in the world. But how does she do it? Today, I was hoping to find out. In a YouTube first, I had been granted exclusive 24-hour access to her personal climbing gym to uncover the secrets of her training, witness her insane strength, Wait, it looks like that shouldn't be possible. I don't understand how you stick so well to it. And get to the bottom of what makes her so insanely dominant in this sport. If you competed with the men, how would you do? I'm a little bit nervous, I'm not gonna lie. I'm about to meet the biggest star in climbing. It's also such an anticipated collab. People have been asking for this for years. Okay, I guess this is it. Kind of a smaller gym than I expected it to be. I thought like the world's best climber would have something like gigantic, you know. I think this is it, but I'm not completely sure. There's supposed to be like a spray wall somewhere. Hello, have you seen Janja? She's down here? She's in the like the secret room. Oh, hello. Hey, nice to see you again. Me too. Finally. It's good to have you here. It's good to finally be here. I mean people have been commenting, do a collab with Janja for like years. Oh yeah. Well, I have mixed feelings about this. I am super excited but a little bit nervous at the same time to train with you. You don't have to be. And Roman, your coach, he's gonna be coaching us today. What would you say? I just, I felt some of the holes on the spray wall and it felt like, I mean the holes are so bad, just climbing from the bottom to the top must be like what, 7b baller or something? Something like that, yeah? Yeah. Okay, maybe even harder than 7b. Okay, so you warm up with a rubber band usually. I warm up with this and honestly I should be warming up more. It's sort of a mystery what you do, you know, because there's not many videos of you anywhere really about like how you're training, what you're training, what do you do differently, why you're so much better than everyone. What do you think? Honestly, like to ask me, I honestly don't know. What if we ask your coach, Roman, what do you think is the secret? Why is Janja so much better than everyone? She's working every single day like she would never achieve anything before. Okay, that's the mindset. You're never satisfied. Honestly, I wish to be not such a perfectionist because like even if I win a comp, like there's always, you know, some little things that I could be better or I could improve on. How long are you doing this for? I feel like I don't really know what I'm doing. I'm just like standing here with a rubber band not really knowing what I'm doing. Me too, me too. That's why I said before that I should be warming up more but that's it and then I go climbing. Right. Or before I do like one very weird stuff thing. Okay, we want to see that. We definitely want to see that. Yeah, you will see like this thing. Okay. Have you seen that? Have you seen that? I don't know what you're about to show me. No, that looks. Okay, that's so weird. High tech. Is that sponsored at all? No, it's not. It's just like I randomly saw it on Instagram like story from someone and I was like I need that so it's very weird. Is it developed for climbers? No, no, this is for carving wood. So this is like, you know, like. Okay, so you just. So basically you like take off the layer. You want the skin to be even, exactly. So like I said, I could do this with like a sandpaper but like this makes it more even. So we start on that spray wall. Yeah, it's a little bit easier. Yeah, so you just, you just traverse. You just puff around a bit. Yeah, I just like scratch a bit actually on the wall as well. Okay, interesting. Feeling good today. Feeling super light, yeah. No excuses today. Feeling Olympic. Yeah, feeling Olympic. And you have the Olympic tattoo I see. Oh yeah. Did you get that after winning or before winning? After. After? Yeah, I didn't want to jinx it, you know. I was going to ask you, did you take anything like creatine or any supplements or anything that like. No, usually I'm taking like omega-3s. Okay, omega-3s, yeah. Or and multivitamins but it's like this is what a normal, like normal person, like everybody should anyways take. Do you ever drink alcohol? Yeah, I do. You do? Okay, didn't expect that. No, I do but it's more in the like off-season when there are no comps and. No, I do, I do. I'm not like, you know, like super, super strict. Yeah. But like just like, you know, like in the comp season, of course you don't do that. I thought you, for some reason, I just thought you had no fun outside climbing, you know, like. I have a good time. Yeah, okay, so you just climb on any holds here, huh? On any holds. Man, it's like, I feel like I need to plan this. And the commercial bowlers, or they're actually not commercial, but these are set for Jania, right? Specifically. Yes. And they have like, what would you say, is it like a world cup women's qualifier? What's the level? It's hard to say, but I would say that everything is harder than women's world cup. Okay, so they're the men's level. All right, let's see. If I can make it to the top. Of course you can. First go to the, I'm trying to learn from the beta now to see where she goes, but. Honestly, that. Okay, maybe that's not a good idea. That's not a good idea. Okay. Oh God. What the hell? It's like, maybe like sweet. Yellow pocket to the left. Yellow pocket. To the left. Oh, nice. That's a good, that's a bad one. Come on. Nice. Perfect. Okay. Okay. Nice. Easy. All right. That's cool. Thank you guys for watching. See you later. Please hit like and subscribe. Yeah. Yeah. He was in here and he won. Okay. So Sam Evans is a world cup climber, really strong, and he never got past warmup only number one. Okay. I think I'm going to lower my expectations then a little bit. Nice. Yes. Nice. Yellow. Just the big one. Yes. And then yellow pinch. Just above. I come on. Yes. Match. And blue. Stop. No. Oh, the heel. You are pretty strong. Heard people say that if Jana competed in the men's category, she could probably top, place top three in lead and bouldering. What do you think about that? In lead, I would even bet for, she could even win. Thank you. Because she tried already few. What do you think then if you competed with the men, how would you do? Actually, like Roman said, I think in lead I could do pretty well because I did try some of the men's routes and I did pretty well, but you know, a comp is a comp, so still pressure and everything plays a huge role. In bouldering, I think it can be more for, but I think if everything is like also like kind of set for me, like make sure I can also do well there. Right. Oh, wow. She just looks weightless on the wall. Easy. How was that on a level from like one to 10? How hard did you have to try? Four. Four. Okay. Nice. Come on. Nice. Come on. Okay. Come on. Come on. Yes. Come on. Nice. Perfect. Come on. Oh, it's hard to keep the, I think I need to have my foot up. I'm just saying that. Okay. Let's start with the real, the real boulders, I guess. Wow. That does not look easy though. I mean, this is pretty much like a male world cup level. Yeah. Yeah. I mean the part after that looks even worse. Let me go up and see. So you kind of come like this. Yeah. And then. And then I do what? What? That and then right foot up. Yeah. Oh, okay. Okay. Do you think Janja is an intuitive climber? Is it just like instinct or is it more planned? Instinct. Yeah. Oh, it's a bad hold up. Come on. What the? Come on. Come on. I was matching the lower one coming into the crimp and then up. Okay. Come on. Come on. Come on. Yes. Oh my God. That is so greasy. You've done AP plus boulder outside HC. Yeah. And, uh, even like when we talked, when the cameras were not rolling, uh, you might go to Finland. I might go to Finland. Yeah. Yeah. So you, are you going to try to burn my dreams? I mean, of course. Yeah. So that is V17. That's the highest level right now in bouldering, which would be just crazy. If you could do that, it's going to be interesting to see. And I, I mean, it does look a little bit like your style, I guess. Yeah. I would just make one more go in there. Yeah. Yeah. Oh, it's crazy though. How that upper part, you make that look so easy, just holding onto that sloper. I don't understand how you stick so well to it. That is a big swing. Come on. Oh, you're going to stop there. Is that the plan? Yeah. The plan is to stop with the toe hook. Oh, nice. Oh, you just missed the toe a little bit. Yeah. It's going to be hard to stick that, but, um, I think the upper part though, honestly, I have no chance when I, I just see like this, how slopey those are. I can probably do the first two moves, but I don't think I could ever do the pop on this. Yeah. Yeah. Nice. Come on. Oh no. The upper part is weird though. How about outside? Cause uh, your goal now is to do bibliography, right? Yeah. Nine B plus. Yeah. So for those of you who don't know, like nine C is the top level for the guys and she's trying a nine B plus. And it seems like you're pretty close to doing it as well, but you surely have the nine C level. You know, if you found something that really suited you, I'm sure you could do nine C. Is that going to be a goal eventually to like find a project or like definitely at some point, I guess that can wait, right? Now you're focused on the comps, but also like, how do you stay motivated? You want everything. How many World Cups have you won? I don't even know. Honestly, it's like 47 something. 47 World Cups. Yeah. Nice. Easy. You just needed to show me. Yeah. Good. Look how easy that looks. That is so crazy. How you make that last move look so easy. Good job. Thanks. I'm glad I could show you how to do the first move though. Yeah. Thank you. I take that as a small victory. I think I need a small break though. You want to go and get some, some food or something and then we'll come back. Yeah, I agree. Are we going to be swarmed in the city by people, by fans? I don't know. We'll see. I can see people looking at you. I feel like everyone knows who you are when we walk around here. Yeah, true. Basically when I'm Ljubljana, I feel like being watched all the time because like people like do recognize me, but maybe are too shy. Hi. Maybe they are too shy to take a picture. Thank you. But it's always nice. It doesn't really like, it doesn't bother me. What is your, you have a charity going on. Yes. So we have this like charity initiative in Slovenia where each year one prominent athlete takes on the responsibility of collecting money for underprivileged children, kids in sports. So for this year, I am in the role of what we call it like Godmother of Slovenian sports. My aim is to collect money for, for those kids. So I'm really happy to be in that role. You guys should check that out. We'll leave a link in the description. Sweet. No, this is just opened. So every time something new opens, I really want to try it out. Can you eat anything? Is there anything you try to avoid or? No, I eat everything. Whatever my body tells me that I need to eat. And you back in the days, did you have? Yeah, I don't know. I feel like I had a pretty like unhealthy relationship with food to be honest. Like I was always kind of bigger and I felt like in order to climb better, I had to like lose weight. When I look around, I do think that there's a lot of problems with adding climbing still, you know, um, some people having issues with food and it's hard. I don't know how to fix that really. Yeah. I think like one thing we like talked about was like with setting. Yeah. So if they set like problems that actually don't allow you to be skinny, that you need some, you know, like a little bit of meat yet to climb them. Then I think like also the mentality would change. We cannot lie to ourselves. I mean, climbing is a sport related to weight, but I do believe that we can do it like the healthy way. I think this is a perfect amount of food though to not feel like too full. So being able to continue training. Yeah. All right. Let's go back and do some more training, I guess. How do you feel? Energized? Energized, definitely ready for a second sesh. What do you want to try? Maybe go, let's go with the red one. That's crazy. She's not using her hands at all. That leg power is impressive. Oh my God. That is crazy. Okay. And now what? This looks like the crux. Wow. That is, uh, that was very impressive. Good job. I had to try hard here. That's like a completely different style. You know, that's not like pulling. It's not, it's just like so intricate. So technical. How do you, okay. Slow, slow and steady. Come on. Yes. Come on. Stand up. Okay. So you have to stand up. You have to really trust that. Yeah. Come on. Yes. Nice. Sweet. Come on. Are you kidding me? Yes, yes, yes. Come on. Nice. Come on. And now you have to get up on that foot. Who do you say you're, uh, who's like your biggest competitor now? Who do you consider like your biggest competition in lead? I definitely, we had like a quite a fun rivalry. Yeah. Sale of course. And now the new generation is coming. Like I was watching like this year's world cup, like adding is super strong. So, so even though you don't compete, you're still watching the World Cups now. I do watch World Cups because still, even if I don't compete, I like to see what's happening. Like what's the style of like route. Yeah. It's so much fun to watch it through your eyes. Cause when I look at a workout, I'm like, Oh, this is super hard and stuff. But when you look at it, you feel like, Oh, this is easy. I would have done that. You know, I would have, is that how it is? This one, it's a bit, um, you know, tricky. That is a very slippery. You just got to trust. Oh, that's come on. Okay. You just use that one. You don't grab both. Okay. Oh, nice. So easy to make that look. That looks very, very hard. What about for the next Olympics? Because now they're going to separate bulging and lead. Think you're gonna want to compete in both or are you going to focus on one? I mean, there are a lot of unknowns yet. Um, but I am pretty sure that I will compete in both because like, why not? It's like three separate disciplines, like two chances of a medal. So I will do it. But there's like, still, we don't know the quota per country. We don't know how the qualification system will look like. But if it turns out that you have to choose, what would you choose? I don't know. You don't know. That's, I would be pretty mad if it comes to this. Yeah. That's all I can say. Well, you really have to swing into it, huh? Yeah. More than I think I have another way of doing it. Oh, wow. Okay. I'm not going to do that. You got this. I'm going to expose how stiff I am. Come on. Okay. Yeah. That's worse. Yeah. Come on. Nice. Okay. Okay. Now here we go. Come on. Don't hurt yourself. Oh my god. Wow. That's impressive. Come on. Oh my god. All that effort for nothing. Oh my god. I'm not made for this. I'm not made for this. Oh god. This move is crazy. Crazy how she's smearing that. Oh my god. It looks like that shouldn't be possible though. Come on. That was beautiful to watch. The way that you like, yeah, the way that you like crossed here, like it just looks so efficient and smooth. Should we move on to the next one maybe? Try the blue one. Okay. So just for the record, I haven't done a single boulder so far. I don't think I've ever filmed a YouTube video where I haven't done any boulders at all. This might be the first. Come on. It's scary. Yeah. I think I'm going to try to go for the second one because it's that old. How about alternative training? Do you do any anything else other than climbing? Do you need like weights or? Yeah. Honestly, I don't do cardio. I don't do gym. I think the best like training for climbing is just climbing. What do you think is the biggest mistake people do? Is there like one thing that people? Hangboarding. Okay. Wow. Don't kill me. That's a controversial opinion. It's controversial. Very controversial. But like if it works for someone, then it's totally fine. But for me, I've never done it in my life. I think it works. I just have to land my foot a little bit more like here. I think you should probably try the top as well. That looks hard. So the big black is not on? No. Come on. Nice. This one is so bad. Really bad. Okay. Yeah. Come on. Yes. Nice. There you go. No, you put a little bit of pressure on her and then she performs. I actually thrive under pressure. Yeah. That's so true. She's just turning around and talking. Go on. You got this. Yeah. Yeah. She's using my method. That was good. That was amazing. Yeah. It's crazy though how hard these boulders are because I normally just do like the boulders in a commercial gym and this is like way harder than any of them. I don't know if like when you watch this on the screen, if you can really tell how hard this is, but it's like crazy hard. You also had some campus boulders here, right? Yeah. I think it would be cool to see. Normally I would say that's my like strength campus thing, but with you, I'm not so sure. We'll see. Can you do a lot of one arm pull-ups and stuff too? Honestly, no. You can't do one pull-up? I haven't done it for quite some time and probably I can't do it. I mean, I don't know. Did I win in Tokyo without doing a one arm pull-up actually? Probably a lot of people would hate me for that, but I don't think you need to do one arm pull-up to be a good climber. Oof, make that so easy. Nice one. That's the move, yeah. That is the move, huh? Okay, let's see if it's as easy as she made it look. Okay, yeah. Okay, I think I can do that move, but it's way harder than she made it look. Wait, how do you do that so easily? I just feel like, I don't understand how you stick so well to it. Nice. Oh wow, making that look super easy. Pretty easy. Thanks. So on a scale from one to ten, how hard would you say you had to try? A five maybe? Come on. Blue pinch. That was good. Yeah, it was good. I just dry fired off that other pinch, but nice. Yeah, no, I think I can do that one. It's crazy how easy you made it look though. You haven't done many YouTube collabs. Have you ever thought about making your own YouTube channel at one point or is that just... Yeah, it's always at the back of my mind, but honestly it's a lot of work. Yeah. A lot of work, so huge respect to you. Oh thanks, yeah. When you're still actively competing and doing all the stuff around it, all the other obligations and stuff, it's hard to also have a YouTube channel, but at some point it would be interesting. Nice, come on, come on, come on, come on. I just get that. Yeah, that is a hard move for me. I don't know. Have you ever trained with Jakub Schubert? No, actually. I'm asking him to come like Roman is asking him to come for a couple of years now, but he doesn't want to come. Yeah, he's afraid. I don't know. I think he is. Out of all the people I train with, I think he's the one where I just feel the weakest always when I train with him. I think he's probably one of the most underrated. He's a machine. He's a machine. He's such a machine and I would love to train with him, so Jakub, if you watch this, please come and train. It will be super interesting to see you versus him on lead, bouldering, just everything. Yeah, it will be fun. I want to test ourselves in one-arm pull-ups. You want to see how close you are? Okay, see how weak I am, people. Oh nice, easy. Oh wow, I did not see that coming. You did it super easily too. Yeah, no, that was that's a good day. I don't know what's in the air. She's talked herself down, guys. She can do a one-arm pull-up. Okay, now it all makes sense to me now why you're so strong. Yeah, well, I can't do that. That's for sure. It just goes to show that it has nothing to do with climbing, you know. You guys can train all the one-arms you want, even finger strength on the board, but what it really comes down to is like just trying hard and climbing a lot. Yeah, all right. Well, you heard it, guys. Make sure you check out Janja and I will see you next time.