Make a Part From Start to Finish; Mark's Greatest Setup Tips - Haas Automation Tip of the Day

Hello and welcome to this Haas tip of the day. Today we're going to go from this to this. A finished part. We're going to do a complete part setup from start to finish, but don't worry we're going to fast forward through all the boring parts and slow things down to take in the good stuff. This is our greatest setup tips video, our compilation album. Along the way we will be referencing other videos that we have made that go into detail on the specific topics that we're going to cover during today's setup. So at any time you can open up the description to the YouTube version of this video. Just follow the links for those specific videos. So stick around. There are things in this video that you don't want to miss. Kevin Kelly was one of the co-founders of Wired Magazine, one of my favorite magazines, and he's also quite the author. Now he once wrote that you'll be paid in the future based on how well you can work with robots. Robots. Let's figure out what robots actually means here. Let me flip through. Ah, robot. Noun. A machine capable of carrying out a complex series of actions automatically, especially one programmable by a computer. That sounds an awful lot like a CNC machine. Am I right? So in the future you'll be paid based on how well you can work with robots, or in our case as machinists, how well we work with our CNC machines. Now in machining there's this hierarchy. We might start out as part loaders. We just load and unload the parts. And then we become setup persons. We can actually set up the entire job. Eventually we might learn the g-code and become CNC programmers. With each step, with each rung on that ladder, we make more and more money, right, as machinists. And that's what we want to do today. We want to help you make that leap from operator or parts loader to setup person. Well let's start by powering on the machine. I powered on my machine and then I went ahead and followed the on-screen instructions. It told me to cycle the doors, so I opened and closed the doors, and then I released the emergency stop button. From there I checked for obstructions and pressed the power up key. This is going to home out my machine, sending each axis back to machine zero. Now I haven't run this machine since last Friday, so I went ahead and put a tool in the spindle and ran my spindle warm-up program. That's program 2020. If you've lost that program, if it's been deleted, that's not a problem. Just go to the Haas website, haascnc.com, and in the search bar enter spindle warm-up. You'll find the program. As a setup person, everything for me begins with my setup sheet. Now this was created by the CNC programmer and it defines everything I need to know. It tells me what fixed ring I'm going to need, where my work offsets are going to be. It also defines what tools I'm going to use, an end mill, a drill, how far they need to stick out, and the setup sheet will also tell me what programs I'm going to be using. Now I tend to use the Sandisk Xtreme USB 3.0 USB sticks. They're fast and they work on all of my Haas machines. To load this guy up, I'm going to go ahead and mount it on the control, press list program, and navigate to my USB stick. With my file highlighted, bracket.nc, I'm going to press the F2 button and copy that file over into memory. With our program all loaded up, I'm going to get back to my setup sheet. Okay, so starting out with our setup sheet, looks like number one on my list is vise setup. And remember, we've got a whole video on how to set up a vise. So follow those links and watch the detailed version. That was step one. Alan Wrench, that was step one. We set our vises just like the video showed us to. Now I'm moving on to my next step, and I'm going to do what my setup sheet says. I'm going to set my back left corner of my raw stock as my G54. And then I'm going to pick up that hole in op 20 as my G55 zero. I've got a probe on my machine, so I'm going to use it. I'm going to go ahead and set my work offsets. Now we've made, just like, you know what I'm going to say, right? We've made an entire video showing you how to probe your work offsets. So check it out now. If you've got a probe, watch the work offset probing video. If you don't have a probing system, we've got videos for you as well. On this left part, we're just going to be picking up the top and the edge of the part. So we've got a video on how to manually pick up the edge of your part. Check it out. In a little bit later, you can look at your G55 where we have to pick up that hole, and we've got a video showing you how to manually pick up that hole. So if you don't have a probing system, we've got you covered. If you've got a probing system, we've got you covered. Well, that's it. We've set up our work offsets, just like our setup sheet told us to. Now we're going to move on to our tools. Now I've got all the tools that we need for this job already lined up here in our rack, but I set them up in another video. Surprise, surprise. So check out the video where we show you how to set up ER tools. It's kind of a cool video. We use all these fancy torque wrenches. I've got my pull stud torque wrench, my ER-32, my ER-25, my ER-16 wrenches. So check out that video. Now looking over these tools, right off the bat, you're going to notice that they're all pretty small. There are no giant face mills in this shot. If we had some large tools, let's say a three-inch or a four-inch shell mill, then we would have to designate it as a large or heavy tool, depending on the size of this thing, especially if you've got a side mount tool changer. Now on this machine, I've got a sticker that says that with a 24 pocket tool changer, anything bigger than three inches in diameter has to be set as heavy. We've got a video on that. Check out the large heavy tool video. We explain everything there is to know about designating those tools on your pocket tool table. Now we can move on. I'm going to grab this tool here, and we're going to start loading up all these tools, and I'll probe them all. I do this little routine every time I load any tool. I take a look at the drill tip or the inserts on this indexable end mill, and I make sure I don't have any chips. Then I take my bare hand, and I slide across the taper of the tool, checking for any rust or corrosion. If it has some light corrosion on there, I might grab a piece of Scotch Brite with some rust preventative, like a Castrol Rustillo or just a WD-40, and I will scrub that corrosion off. If I still feel any pitting, it's time to get rid of that tool. You don't want to mar up your spindle. Now at that same time, I'm going to kind of give my pull stud a quick tug. I just want to make sure the thing's not falling off. I'll check the pull stud for dents. If it's dented, I'll replace the pull stud. On tools that are running through spindle coolant, I'm going to look down the end of my tool. Can you see that? Make sure there's a hole down the middle of my pull stud. If there's no hole down the middle of my pull stud, I can't run through spindle coolant. There are pull studs with and without holes for that through spindle coolant. Well, that's it. I'm going to go ahead and call up tool one to the spindle. This is tool one, and start loading up my tools. Okay, so I just probed tool one, and did you learn how to do it? Maybe not, but you can always. Okay, great. If you've got the probe, you now know where to look for that information. If you don't have a probing system, okay, we're on the same page. Well, it's time for us to set our coolant nozzles, our P-cool positions. So I'm going to turn on the coolant. Okay, so why am I not completely soaked right now? Well, it's because I know that last night, I used my washdown hose to clean out my machine, and when I use that hose, I close the valves that feed my coolant lines. So I've got to open those valves back up. This is something we should be checking every morning to make sure we've got coolant running properly. Okay, now we can go ahead and set our P-cool, and guess what? Say it along with me. We've got a video for that, too. Go ahead and check out the link in the description for the video that talks about setting our P-cool positions. Well, we've done everything that we were supposed to according to our setup sheet, so I can just hit the green button and run, right? Well, almost. Trust, but verify. I want to make sure that my tool list on my setup sheet matches the tool list and the tool numbers in my program, and guess what? We haven't made a video on that, so I'm going to show you that right now. Starting from the beginning of my program, I'm going to press T and then press down arrow. I just want to make sure that my T values, my H values, and my D values all match, and the tool description in my program matches the tools described in my setup sheet. We're just verifying everything lines up. While I'm here, I'm also going to look at my work offset, G54 in this case. Everything looks good. I'm going to press T and then down arrow again and check all my tools in that same way. Now, when I'm done with that, if this was a production job, I would then make sure that all of my tool pre-calls are correct. It looks like this program does not have any pre-calls in it, so starting from the bottom of the program, working my way up, I'm going to press T, up arrow, and then at each tool, I'm going to add a pre-call line for the next tool. Now, this is something that we would do if you have a side mount tool changer. If you have an umbrella style tool changer, don't worry about it. Okay, it's the moment of truth. I'm going to run this part. I've already ran my part in graphics. I pressed the graphics button and then ran my part. Now, I know exactly where my tool is going to start and stop, giving me some perspective. I'm going to make use of the single block button so I can start and stop my program as necessary. We made a video on that. And again, this is the greatest setup tips video, the compilation album. Be sure to watch the other videos. They'll go through and tell you to watch your position screen as that tool comes down to avoid any kind of incident or crash. Watch the other videos. Okay, I'm going to switch to 25% rapid, press memory, position. I want to see my position, my distance to go. I'm going to run this part. Nice. Well, my part's finished up just fantastic. But one thing I don't like is the position of my table. When the program ends, I want it to move those vices right in front of me so I can change those parts more easily. So I'm going to go over, adjust the code, add in a special G53 line to take care of that for us. That's better. Now with a completed part and a proofed program, I'm just going to add one line of code to that program writing down that it's been proofed. I'll say proofed with my initials and the date. So when I back up that program and pull it out next time, I'll know that it's all set and ready to go. Well, we'd like to thank you for going through this setup with us and watching this greatest setup tips video. We've got plenty more singles for you though. We've got videos on M30 counters and G98, G99 clearance planes for your drills. We've got videos on probing and macros. So check back in often for our latest tip of the day. Thanks for watching.