I started the day at an all you can eat sushi omakase buffet and then headed to Hakone for the ultimate Japanese ryokan. Complete with relaxing natural hot springs and an unforgettable kaiseki feast. From traditional Japanese hospitality to a multi-course dinner prepared with seasonal ingredients, this is one of the most authentic luxury experiences Japan has to offer.
I take you inside the ryokan, tour the room, soak in the onsen, and enjoy an incredible kaiseki dinner that showcases the artistry of Japanese cuisine.
Mike Chen embarks on a luxurious culinary journey through Japan, beginning with an all-you-can-eat sushi feast in Tokyo and a high-end ryokan stay in Hakone. The trip highlights traditional Japanese hospitality, from private onsen baths to elaborate kaiseki meals, and concludes with a gourmet ramen exploration in the Ginza district.
Hey guys, good morning. It's Mike Chen here in Tokyo, Japan.
This is one of my favorite things to do in Tokyo.
Well, not just Tokyo.
And I do it pretty much every single time I come to Japan.
And that is to visit a Hot Springs Hotel ryokan.
And this one I'm going to, it may be the best one I've ever been to.
Gonna take a little bit to get there though.
Wow, there's a bookstore.
Whoa, look at all the video games this place has.
Little Pac-Man machines.
Anyway, before going to the ryokan, making a little pit stop.
There's this all-you-can-eat sushi place that just moved locations.
So they're running a special on their all-you-can-eat meal right now.
This is gonna be good.
Let me show you.
I think this is it.
Yeah, this is it.
Yeah, there's a random little sushi counter in this maze of a mall.
So this used to be a standing-only sushi spot.
So you were pretty much getting standing-only omakase here.
All-you-can-eat omakase here.
I think this is gonna be an amazing meal.
A couple of starter dishes.
Look at this.
So this is a course menu to start.
Grilled eel, little cucumber, tomagoyaki.
Oh, this is some super delicate eel.
Amazing.
That's so good.
This eel is so freaking tender.
And the dishes, they just keep coming.
Beef sukiyaki style.
Ooh, shredded beef.
It's all good.
I don't think I've ever had shredded beef sukiyaki before.
Samurai festival.
Yoisho.
Wow.
That is a loaded crab sushi.
Wow.
Looks like a giant orange ikura mountain with fresh snow crab, it looks like.
He just tops as much as you want on here.
That's so good.
Next up, chawanmushi.
Steamed egg.
A little mushroom inside.
Mushrooms and fish cake.
Oh, scallops in here too.
Whoa.
Oh, that's great.
There's definitely a lot of steamed eggs though.
I guess the last starter dish.
This is a stir-fry clam dish with some scallions and mushroom.
That's some tender, tender clams.
They're really buttery too.
Here we go, the main event.
First piece, chutoro.
Oh my gosh, this is so beautiful.
Oh, that was incredible.
Like not even one percent of resistance.
Just flat out melted.
Ah, seabream with a little salt and lemon.
Wow, that is beautiful.
I bit myself.
Masterclass.
This thing's gonna melt.
Oh, it's melting so well.
This sushi rice is legit too.
Like a phenomenal ratio.
Everything is so good.
Oh, that's a classic piece.
Horse mackerel with ginger and onion on top.
Zero fishiness.
Ginger and onion is such a good complement to the horse mackerel,
which is so nice and fatty, you know.
Next up, seared Spanish mackerel.
If you push that fish to the roof of your mouth, it just crumbles like that.
Squid.
Snappy and sweet.
Golden eye snapper.
This is a beautiful piece.
That's as delicate as they come.
Arigato gozaimasu.
Soy sauce marinated shrimp.
That's a highlight piece right there.
Wow, down to the last piece of fish already.
Otoro?
Wow, check out this piece of otoro.
That's my favorite piece.
Sometimes when you eat otoro, like, that's so good.
You can't even believe that actually exists, you know.
Hokkaido uni.
That's the best.
That's creamy, sweet uni.
Next piece, ikura.
Wow.
So after that piece, you get your ice cream,
and then you get to reorder whatever you want.
And that's the all-you-can-eat part.
I got rum raisin haagen-dazs.
I had a hair repeat on the amberjack.
Amazing.
Horse mackerel too.
Spanish mackerel.
Golden eye snapper.
This is breakfast right here.
Sushi for breakfast.
Medium fatty tuna.
Oh, so good.
That's it.
What a finale.
Oh, absolutely amazing this place.
Such a good deal too.
So the train that goes to Hakone is directly from Shinjuku,
and it's called the loneliest car.
I don't see why it's romantic, but that's what it's called.
Wow.
Check this out.
Wow.
This is the best view I've ever seen at a hot springs hotel.
This is amazing.
Like this hotel is right on the mountain,
overlooking like a little river, trees.
Man, this is so beautiful.
As you're appreciating the view, they bring you a welcome drink.
Mint ginger tea.
Oh, that's good.
That's so refreshing.
It was like the perfect weather to be here too.
Wow.
Just one night though.
First time I've ever seen a tatami mat inside an elevator.
Wow, this is so pretty.
So this is one of the Japanese style rooms.
Tatami mat, of course.
Table.
This is the dining table.
So it's like a sunken seat.
Oh, there's TV.
And what's so cool about this onsen is, look at this.
There's a public bath.
And there's also my private onsen out here.
How freaking amazing with this view.
Oh, this is so cool.
This is the restroom.
Oh, okay.
Wow.
Shower, restroom.
Wow, that's so nice.
Yeah, this has got to be the coolest onsen I've ever stayed at.
Can't wait to jump in there.
I'm not much of a hot tub guy, but I can't wait to jump in.
There's a few drinks that comes with a room.
This is one of them.
This is onsen cider.
I got sweet carbonated water.
That's very refreshing.
Also, every onsen I've been to, usually they give you like just a thing of green tea.
Oh, here it is.
This is the green tea set right here.
Yeah.
Oh, it's tea bags.
Usually they give you just powder green tea, but here's tea bags.
Okay, that's fine as well.
So they're going to bring some hot water and then we can have some tea and relax.
Oh yeah, in the middle room, this is also the bedroom.
So after dinner, they're going to put up a couple of mattresses and this is where sleeping
takes place.
There's also some little snacks to go with your tea.
It's like a Mount Fuji rice cake.
It's like a matcha cookie here.
It's a little rice cracker.
Sweet rice cracker.
Oh, it's good tea.
All right, I'm gonna go sit in that tub and stare at that mountain for a while.
See you for dinner.
Dinner time.
This is so cool.
Dinner, of course, kaiseki in your room.
There's sesame tofu, seven appetizers.
So I think that's going to be a little tiny little dishes.
That's going to be served at once.
Seasonal dumplings for today.
Sashimi, tilefish, grilled wagyu.
That's going to be amazing.
Oh, beautiful.
Wow, thank you.
Okay, this is so exciting.
By the way, eating while sitting next to this, it's just something else.
The first dish, sesame tofu inside some, I think some dashi.
Thick dashi and uni.
Wow, this is incredible.
This is like some next level kaiseki meal.
Oh man, so good.
Oh, the sesame tofu is amazing.
With that sweet, creamy uni.
Oh, this is so good.
Sesame tofu is one of the greatest things.
If you've never tried it, it's so good.
It's like creamy tofu with just a blast of sesame flavor.
This uni is phenomenal as well.
Yeah, I need a spoon for this.
Oh, it's a little spicy too.
This is great.
Kaiseki, of course, made with all local produce.
That starter was next level.
Look at the cover for this dish.
Beautiful bamboo.
Oh, so this is the water vinegar.
It looks like with some corn, goji berries inside.
This is the tiger prawn.
The simmer yuba is inside the simmerized helmet.
This is simmer yuba and shark fin, they said.
Deep-fried swordfish, rolled omelet, cheese wrapped in egg.
Let's try this.
This is the vinegar.
Apples are here too.
Oh, radish.
It's like a little pickle soup.
That's really refreshing.
Tiger prawn, nice and sweet.
Cheese wrapped in egg.
Whoa, it's like a sweet cream cheese thing.
This is the Japanese rolled omelet.
Oh, that's a really soft omelet.
Fried fish.
It's probably my favorite thing there.
And of course, simmer yuba.
Pretty interesting.
Best thing that round was definitely the swordfish and what they call cheese wrapped in an egg.
I think it's just cheese wrapped into the shape of a little egg.
That was pretty good.
It's like sweet cream cheese.
That was a nice little appetizer meal.
You get a lot of different flavors and textures in that one little dish.
Plus, the presentation is always so beautiful.
Oh, something else that's interesting.
So the water shio, what was in this little cup here, it was kind of like thick.
It wasn't super liquidy.
That's actually a naturally gelatinous ingredient.
It's like a local delicacy.
I thought it was like some kind of gelatin that they added to it.
No, it was like a natural gelatin.
Never heard of that before.
This is so pretty.
Even for kaiseki standard, this is very pretty.
Look at this.
This is the seasoned dumpling.
Sitting in some dashi, I assume.
Mushrooms, onions, scallions.
This dumpling is so pretty.
It looks like cherry blossoms.
Like a ball of cherry blossoms.
Oh, it's a mochi dumpling.
Okay.
Oh, that's wonderful.
Sitting in some very light, super flavorful dashi.
It's like you're tasting nature right now.
And nature tastes like umami and scallions.
This is so nice.
Next up, sashimi.
There's like maybe some citrus to add to it.
Okay.
And this is interesting.
So this is tuna, of course.
This is grouper.
Squid.
And she said this is blackfish.
It kind of just looks like amberjack.
Let me go from lean to fatty here.
Squid.
This looks so pretty, by the way.
Everything looks so pretty.
Squid.
Amazing.
This is the blackfish.
Yummy.
That does taste a little unique.
Like a pretty rich flavor in that fish.
Grouper is good.
And yeah, the tuna is gonna be awesome.
So awesome.
So, so awesome.
Especially this fatty piece.
Four more dishes to go.
This is such a cool kaiseki tasting menu.
You know what's better than kaiseki?
Random extra kaiseki.
Like she brought this dish and said it's not on the menu.
It's just an extra dish that's prepared.
That's so awesome.
That's like ordering a batch of fries and finding a random curly.
This is one of my favorite things.
Soba.
A little wasabi.
Fish tempura.
Take the wasabi.
Put it into the soba.
I like a lot of wasabi, so.
Fish tempura.
Oh, so crispy.
So light and flaky.
Fresh cold soba.
One of my favorite things in Japan.
Tempura and fresh cold soba is the perfect combo.
Wow, that wasn't even on the menu.
That's amazing.
And as dinner is prepared, people have come in to make the bed.
Next up, tile fish.
Tile fish with a little pumpkin, green beans, some miso green onion sauce to dip it in.
Oh, that's tender.
Wow, that's some succulent looking fish.
Wow, this is freaking amazing.
Where has this been all my life?
This is one of the most tender fish you could ever eat.
Oh, garlic chips.
You're supposed to eat it with garlic chips as well.
I'm loading the garlic chips.
Even better with the garlic chips.
Like ultimate delicate fish with an ultimate crunch.
Oh yeah, this is so good.
It's probably my favorite course so far.
Oh, I burned myself.
I didn't know this.
Look, so the fish is sitting on a super hot stone and I touched it.
That's why I was able to stay piping hot.
About to eat this paper.
Wow, thank you.
Beautiful grilled A5 Wagyu.
For me, the highlight of the Kaiseki experience.
Look, their fork is so interesting.
It's like the claw Vega uses in Street Fighter.
Oh, it's so smoky.
They definitely cooked this over charcoal.
Dip it in some steak sauce.
Oh yeah, that's A5 Wagyu for sure.
For sure.
You could also eat it with some wasabi.
That's so amazing.
Or you could just add some salt to it.
That's it.
Really doesn't need much more than that.
A little salt.
Other perfection.
Oh, this is so good.
I think the first time I had Wagyu was at a real con.
Vegetables go too.
Every single meal I've had at a real con has been so uniquely interesting.
The last time I was here, the owner hunted down a boar and made a hot pot out of it.
So good.
Seriously, it smells ridiculous.
Oh, check out what's coming with the rice.
Wow, thank you.
This is four kinds of pickles.
Four kinds of pickles.
This is stock soup, so please eat it with rice.
This is a good course.
Look at all the stuff that came with rice.
Well, assorted pickles, bonito flakes, tea.
This is miso soup, I think.
Miso soup.
And I think this is some stock that goes with the bonito.
Like so amazing.
I once went to a Japanese buffet where it was just pickles and rice and it was delicious.
Rice is so good.
Miso soup is good too.
Everything is good.
I love this so much.
I could eat this every day.
This is so healthy too.
The bonito flakes is amazing.
With this dashi, this is so yummy.
Like simple, but so yummy.
Everything is such high quality.
It tastes clean, it tastes healthy, it tastes delicious.
It's been an awesome kaisaki meal.
So dessert.
Wow, this dessert is so pretty.
Fresh cherry gelatin, I think white bean on the bottom and a sorbet with some green tea.
Look at this beautiful cherry.
Fruits in Japan is always good.
I got fruit gelatin with white bean on the bottom.
And there's fresh fruit buried underneath that too.
Amazing.
A little sorbet.
That's so good.
Another phenomenal, just phenomenal kaisaki.
I don't eat these a lot, but when I do, it makes me so happy.
And it feels so healthy.
Like I feel like I'm doing something good for my body right now.
All right, really simple plan.
After dinner, jump in the bath again.
This might be my favorite hot spring water because it's not so hot.
It's like perfect temperature.
And then tomorrow, one more kaisaki breakfast.
And even at night, it's so beautiful outside.
I'll show you in a bit.
Good, beautiful morning.
It's bright out in Japan at like 4.35 o'clock every morning.
So it's been this bright for hours.
Oh, breakfast time.
Whoa, anchovy dressing.
Thank you.
Look at this thing of beauty.
Japanese breakfast is the most colorful, beautiful looking breakfast you'll find anywhere.
Fish, sashimi, mentaiko, radish, salted plum, tamagoyaki.
I think this is probably miso soup.
Oh, dumplings, salad, and whatever's in here.
Beautiful, healthy, delicious.
Look how pretty even the chopstick is.
Chopstick wrapper.
I love potato salad in Japan.
Seaweed with grilled fish.
Fish kind of looks like an alien.
A little bit of salt.
That's all you need.
Sashimi in the morning.
It's not a dumpling, it's tofu skin.
Kind of like a tofu skin dumpling.
I think this is done.
Tofu, fresh tofu.
Just add some soy sauce.
This thing's perfect.
Also, anchovy dressing on your salad.
Finally, fresh miso soup and some rice.
Wow, like fresh, fresh clam soup.
That's great.
Amazing miso soup.
Tofu, add some ginger and scallions into the soy sauce.
Add a little soy sauce.
Fresh tofu.
How do you beat that?
Like freshly made tofu in the morning.
They literally made this tofu right now.
This is like probably the pinnacle of beautiful healthy breakfast.
Where in the world you can find something this good, this colorful.
All locally sourced ingredients in the world, you're not.
Some pickles to eat with your rice.
Inside the radish, there's little fishies, little whitebait to eat with your rice as well.
The salad with the anchovy dressing, delicious.
The fish is good.
That's why Japanese people live so long, like eating like this.
I mean, I love my heavy breakfast.
I mean, I love eating fried chicken for breakfast.
I love pizza for breakfast, all that stuff.
I could get used to this too.
It's so good.
So light, but it's so delicious, you know.
Oh, also add in some mentaiko to your rice.
This stuff's insane.
So after breakfast, still got a few hours.
One more soak in the tub, sit outside and enjoy the scenery.
And then back to reality.
Amazing experience so far.
I think this is the best Rokka I've ever been to.
Like just the most beautiful.
Well, that's it.
This was such a lovely place.
Just got back to Tokyo.
It's been a while since that kaiseki breakfast.
I am starving in the Ginza area right now.
Let's go get some mapo tofu.
So a Chinese restaurant is in this random building.
And here's the elevator.
I never would have thought there'd be a Chinese restaurant here.
Look at this, it's like a toy store.
I'm on the fourth floor.
There's still a toy store.
That's pretty cool.
Giant racetrack.
Look, it's this Chinese restaurant.
See, I'm here.
Where is this?
Oh, they got a different set of elevators.
This better be some amazing mapo tofu.
And it's closed.
Wait, no, it's this one.
Nope, no, it's closed.
Wait, no, it's this one.
And it's still closed.
Even though Google says it's open.
Okay, plan B, ramen.
Oh, this looks like a good bowl of ramen.
Oh, this looks amazing.
Recommendation.
Recommended.
Duck ramen.
Oh, let's do this.
Oh, I should have got this.
Look, it's like a duck rice bowl.
Three different types of duck rice bowls.
And they make their own spicy sauce.
Man, I wonder what they put in this bowl.
This is so pretty.
A couple slices of duck meat.
Four wontons.
Looks like a shoyu broth.
Scallions go in.
Oh, this is good.
It's like a really good bowl of shoyu ramen.
Let's add some chilies.
Let's try the wonton.
I mean, tiny little bit of meat.
I think the wonton is just okay.
That's the noodle texture you want.
Oh, this is good.
I'm usually not even a huge fan of shoyu ramen.
This is delicious shoyu ramen.
The noodles are absolutely perfect.
Like, so perfect.
This duck meat looks amazingly tender as well.
Oh my gosh, what?
That's some of the most tender duck meat you will ever put in your mouth.
Anywhere in the world.
I should have got this duck meat over rice.
Okay, that duck meat is so ridiculous.
That is better than most of the chashu I had at ramen places in Japan.
Wow, what a uniquely delicious bowl of ramen.
I had no idea about this place.
Come check this out if you're a fan.
Especially if you're a fan of duck.
Oh, it's so delicious.
I wish I got way more chashu.
Duck chashu.
It's like magic.
I think it tastes like it came out of a fine dining restaurant.
I shouldn't second that.
That wonton's not bad.
It's probably one of the best bowls of shoyu I've had in Tokyo.
Oh man, and I think one of the best chashu, like, top three.
That's so good.
Oh, not burning up.
Let's walk around.
Okay, just walked outside and there's a line at this ramen shop pretty much next door.
Should we do one more?
Let's do one more.
So right now it's about 3 30 p.m.
To have a line, I mean a modest line at 3 p.m.
Should be pretty good ramen.
I don't think I've ever ate at a ramen restaurant with this setup before.
Whoa, this is a gnarly looking bowl of ramen.
So I got the black garlic oil on top.
This is a super thick piece of chashu.
This chashu could be used to build a wall.
Some intaiko.
You don't see that a lot of ramen and it's a tonkatsu ramen.
Oh, chopped up bits of chashu as well.
Thin straight noodles.
Holy moly, this is gonna be awesome.
I just finished eating a bowl of ramen and smelling this, I am salivating.
This is good.
Really rich and creamy and extremely garlicky.
I definitely need some of these pickled vegetables, I feel like.
Cut down the richness.
Chilies.
And if that's not enough, they do have more garlic here.
Just a few sips and this rich broth has completely coated the inside of my mouth.
Ramen texture is beautiful.
I get the hype, it's good.
These pickled veggies, by the way, you gotta get them.
You gotta put them in your bowl.
These are amazing.
Let's mix in the mentaiko.
Adding so much more of this.
This is so delicious.
Pickled greens.
It's so good.
That's why they sell them right now.
I would say this is one of the best bowls of ramen I've had in Tokyo.
The ramen noodles are incredible.
It's so chewy.
And I love the noodles because they absorb so much of that flavor.
Oh.
That chashu is so tender.
Wow.
The broth is amazingly rich.
I would highly recommend getting the garlic oil.
This is so good.
The added mentaiko, so much more umami.
The ramen egg is good.
This is 100% worth the wait.
The thick cut of chashu is good.
The little chopped up pieces are good.
More pickled veggies.
I'm absolutely in love with these pickled veggies.
It tastes so good in noodles.
They're so spicy too.
West Blades are so unique.
All those pickled veggies are so spicy too.
And look at the bottom of this bowl.
With all the little bits of pork and mentaiko and preserved veg.
It's like a sunken treasure trove of flavor.
Probably top three ramen in my life.
Wow.