How to Sew Adjustable Wide Palazzo Pants + Faye Dress Da Sewing Pattern

Hello and welcome to Dressmaking Amóre! In this sewing tutorial I’m going to show you how to make the most luxuriously wide pants you’ll have! These Faye pants have such a gorgeous silhouette thanks to the amount of fabric that flows from the gathered elastic waistband, and the optional drawstring helps with getting a perfectly adjustable waistline. And because this pant design has a large amount of design ease, you can choose whether you want to make them in 2 styles: (A) Extremely wide or (B) moderately wide, designated on the pattern as A or B. In this video, we’re making option A so it has the most flow. Of course we’ll be using my Faye pants PDF sewing pattern so to make your own pants, get your pattern at the link below in the description, Please refer to your instructional booklet that comes with your pattern to choose your right size & print and assemble the pattern perfectly as well as follow the cutting instructions. All the steps for the whole sewing process are in there. Here is a quick visual guide on how to put together your printed pattern. The Letters in the top left corners indicate the rows, and the Numbers indicate the columns. The circles in the corners will help you match the pages. Cut the pages according to the frame to assemble the pattern, and only then cut pieces out. Here I’ll be using a Satin Wash Chiffon fabric, it’s a tiny bit see-through, so I recommend using something like Lawn, Rayon Challis, Linen, Satin, or a Georgette fabric. apply a 2-2.5 cm (1”) wide x 20 cm (8”) long piece of fusible stay tape to stabilize our Pocket opening. The interfacing will go 2-3 cm (1”) past the Pocket opening notches. mark the Pocket opening guideline, drawing 1.2 cm (1/2”) out from the control points and then connect the lines like this. Now we can pin the Pockets to the Front Pant panel right sides together, matching up the marks. Sew following the guideline, backstitching at both ends. Press, and cut the seam allowances leaving 2-3 mm (1/8”). Clip both corners at an angle, stopping just 1 mm from the seam. Then flip the Pocket over to the right side, and press flat. Topstitch the Pocket opening 5 mm (1/4”) from the edge. Press. If you are using a serger, you can simply join the next Pocket piece at the waistline and side seams, sew and serge. However, for these Pants, I’ll be using french seams here. So, here’s how I’ll do it. Place the Pocket linings wrong sides together matching them up, pin, and sew this edge. hen trim the seam allowances by about 2-3 mm. After pressing flat, flip it out, and carefully press together the seam for a crisp edge. Then, sew once more. Press it all again, and now we have a beautiful enclosed seam for our Pockets. We’re going to secure the Pocket Linings at the waistline and the sides by staystitching on the right side. place the Front and Back wrong sides together and pin the side seam, and inseam, and sew. Trim the seam allowances and then press them to on side. Flip this all out to the wrong side, and press down the edge. Pin together so that the fabric won’t move around and sew. With your finger you’ll feel where the Pocket opening is, so make a backstitch to secure it, and then keep sewing. Press, and then place one Pant leg inside the other so they are wrong sides together, and pin the crotch seam, and sew it in the same way as we did the side seams. only with elastic, without using a drawstring, you can skip these next few steps. Mark the center of your Waistband. Apply a strip of interfacing 2.5 cm x 10 cm (1” x 4”) to the bottom half just like this. Then transfer the buttonhole marks from your paper pattern, and make your buttonholes. Cut the holes either with small scissors or a seam ripper. Then sew one short edge of the waistband to make it into a tube, and you want to leave an opening to insert the elastic, making sure that the opening is inside of the Waistband, while the buttonholes are on the outside of the Shell fabric. Fold the Waistband in half and press. Open up the Waistband, and on half opposite the buttonholes, fold the seam allowances in towards the wrong side, and press all around. Pin the Waistband to the waistline right sides together, matching the center marks and quarter marks. And now sew this together. Then press the seam allowances towards the Waistband. The next step is to pin this folded edge of the Waistband down to the waistline seam, slightly covering it, We’ll start at the front, and go all around hiding the seam allowances of the Waistband just like this. And you can baste it by hand if you are not used to working with pins. From the right side, edgestitch the Waistband. Here’s what that looks like, and now press all around. Take your elastic and cut it to equal your waist measurement plus seam allowances, and insert the elastic into your Waistband. Before this you can actually mark the stitching guidelines on the Waistband that will keep the elastic in place ahead of time, making 1 or 2 lines. But after you insert the elastic, making sure it’s not twisted, try the Pants on to see if the elastic is the right length. Then sew the elastic ends together. Like this. Stretch the elastic to evenly distribute the fabric onto it. Also, you can secure the elastic with pins for now to keep it in place. Following your previously drawn guidelines, topstitch the Waistband, stretching it as you sew. For the second stitching line, I started at the buttonhole, and then stopped at the other once I got to it. Here’s what our 2 rows of stitching look like. To prepare our drawstring, fold it in half wrong sides together, and press. Then fold each raw edge towards the center crease and press again. You can use a bias forming tool if you have it in the right size. And then finally press the folded halves together, hiding the raw edges inside, and either pin or hand-baste them - do what you prefer. Now we can topstitch the drawstring 1-2 mm (1/8”) from the edge. After sewing, insert your drawstring through the buttonholes into the Waistband. This string will serve as your regulator or the width of your Waistline, making it as tight or loose as you want it to be. We have a 4 cm hem included in the pattern, but because I want the pants to be extra long, I’ll just double-fold the very edge, and sew all around. And of course - giving your entire garment a finishing press like always, we are done with our gorgeous Faye pants! Thank you so much for watching :) I hope you learned something new and this inspires you to sew this lovely piece yourself, I know you'll love it! You can get the PDF downloadable sewing pattern that I used below at the link in the description of this video…