16 essential tools for DIY + How to use (step by step tutorial)

This is a comprehensive guide on DIY tools to help you get started. Hi, I'm Hillary and I started my DIY journey a few years ago with zero knowledge on how to use work tools. Now I've hacked countless IKEA pieces from my home and even designed and built multiple original creations. So here are 16 tools I think every beginner can start with. I live in Germany where we have concrete walls so it's really important for me to have a good electric drill that can handle those thick walls. The Hoto Brushless Drill has been what I've been using for the past five years, not only for interior walls but also for woodworking, furniture assembly and even for mixing grout. It's the most lightweight and compact drill I've come across which is really great when you're a female with small hands. It's also USB-C charged so no extra batteries are needed. You can easily switch between using it as a drill and an electric screwdriver and adjust the impact strength from 1 to 30. To switch the bits, simply hold it here, turn this front part towards the right, insert the bit and turn it to the left to tighten. I believe the saying is righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, so to tighten something press this toggle on the right and to loosen something press it to the left. The first thing to learn as a beginner is that there are different bits to do different functions. I avoid using the bits that come with the Hoto screwdriver because they are not the best quality, so here's what I use instead. For screwdriver bits, I use these Parkside bit sets and I have them in both a shorter and longer length. Depending on the situation, I'll choose the best length to use but usually the shorter ones will suffice. These Parkside bit sets are hand-me-downs from my husband Pat and are probably almost 10 years old. If you haven't heard of Parkside, it is a very affordable work tool line by Lidl and surprisingly okay quality. My most used bit is the PZ2 which is an improved version of the Philips crosshead screw and is commonly used in Europe and a lot of the screws that come with IKEA furniture. I also use the T20 from time to time. This is a torque screw that prevents dripping so it's arguably much stronger and better than Philips crosshead screws. For drill bits, there are different ones made for different materials. To drill into my interior concrete walls, I use the Bosch robust line. I usually like to work my way up so for example, I would start with the smaller 5 or 6 bit to drill a smaller more precise hole in the wall and then end with the 8 or 10 depending on the size of the wall anchor that I'm using. To drill into wood or metal, I use bits from the Parkside performance set. This set includes bits meant for wood, metal and concrete and can be differentiated from the shape of their tips. My most used bit from this set is the tiny size 3 wood drill bit which I use to create tiny pilot holes before screwing on the actual thing. Creating tiny pilot holes is a really good practice as it prevents the wood from splitting. And lastly, more of a niche area but if you're looking to screw into ceramic like to create a drainage hole in a plum pot, you'll need specialized drill bits. Just like there are different bits meant for different materials, there are also different types of screws. For wood screws, my preferred brand is Spex because they are very accessible in my local hardware stores and I have used them for all of my builds. They're high performance construction screws which, according to their website, have a unique thread geometry and a patented point technology to allow for faster driving, reduced torque and cleaner results. They also have an outdoor line that features rust-free screws that I use for building my outdoor grill station and that has survived all kinds of weather for the past two years. For concrete walls, my preferred wall anchors and screws are the dual power range from Fischer. They are the slightly more expensive brand but I find that their products are really great quality and highly durable. Usually I go for the size 6 by 30 or 8 by 40. What this means is that the drill diameter is 6 or 8 millimeters wide and the wall anchors are 30 or 40 millimeters long. But what's great about this range is that it comes in a lot of different sizes and screw variations to suit your different needs. For example, the 6 by 30 can hold anywhere from 6 to 50 kg depending on your wall type. After drilling a hole into the wall, insert the anchor. You might have to lightly hammer the anchor until it sits flush to the wall. Then simply screw on your bracket or whatever it is that you're attaching to the wall and you're done. To remove the anchor, you can use a pair of long nose pliers or insert a screw about halfway through and then slowly wiggle the anchor and pull it out. Simply fill the hole with wall putty and then lay the sand and paint over it. Speaking of drilling, the one thing you'll see appear on my videos a lot is the laser level. Mine is just a random brand from Amazon but a laser level is really useful for hanging stuff on the walls, ensuring your notepads are aligned and even for hanging wallpaper. To use it, you'll want to mount it onto a tripod and simply turn it on. If the line is blinking, you'll need to adjust your tripod until it's level and the line should become solid. I'll show you how to hang a floating shelf. First, tape across the back of your shelf and mark where the holes should go. Decide approximately at what height you want your shelf to sit and then turn on the laser level before transferring that long piece of tape onto the wall. Here, I'm aligning the bottom of the tape to the laser line because I needed to ensure a amount of distance between the shelf and the tabletop. Then, simply drill your holes, attach the brackets and you're done! This might sound incredibly basic but a good measuring tape is non-negotiable in your DIY toolkit. I found that a folding ruler is quite popular in Germany but I highly prefer a standard measuring tape. It's also very important that you use the same measuring tape within a single project in order to ensure consistency and prevent discrepancies caused by manufacturing variations. My favorite measuring tape is this basic self-locking 5 meter one from the hardware store. I also have this compact one from Muji that I take with me on the go because it just fits in about every bag. A laser measure ruler is also really handy for measuring extra long distances that are tedious to do alone such as measuring the ceiling height. You can set to measure from either the foot or the head of the device. To use it, you just need to ensure that the laser line is unobstructed and then press to get the measurement that you need. Allen keys are probably one of my most hated tools and a lot of IKEA furniture will require an allen key to assemble. In those cases, I always break out this ratchet screwdriver set. Again, this one is a hand-me-down from PET. It's from the budget-friendly Mannesmann brand and I have zero complaints about it. It comes with both a normal screwdriver and ratchet screwdriver handle and a ton of bits. To use, first insert the adapter piece by pressing onto the button on the back of the screwdriver and then insert the correct bit that you need. It's perfect to use for tight and awkward spaces like to install triangle brackets. I also use it in place of an allen key whenever possible to make the assembly process go by much faster. I think a ratchet screwdriver is not necessarily a must-have but it's certainly a very nice to have in your DIY toolkit. Next, we're going to all the cutting tools that I use. If you're just looking to cut thin pieces of wood like some decorative trim, all you need is a pair of miter scissors. I've used this miter scissors to add the trim on my Alex drawers and on my custom vanities. The thickest piece of trim I've successfully cut is 8 by 20 millimeters and has this sort of profile. So, if you're looking to do simple projects similar to these, you don't need to overcome the fear of using an electric saw just yet. The one I have is from Floraguard. I think it's a random brand from Amazon and it came with two spare blades. To use it, you'll want to unlock the scissors by pushing this screw down. If you want a straight cut, leave it at the middle 90 degree position. Otherwise, you can go up to 45 degrees in either direction. Place your piece of trim here, align the marking to the center line on the scissors and squeeze to cut. The jigsaw might be your first choice for a beginner-friendly power saw as it's pretty compact in size, can be inexpensive and it's also quite a versatile power saw. Mine is again from the budget-friendly Parkside brand and it costs less than 20 euros. I also got the matching blades. This set is meant for wood and plastic. My jigsaw is currently equipped with the number two blade which is like a good in-between for a fast but still relatively clean cut. To use the jigsaw, insert the battery and lie the front of this metal plate onto the piece that you're going to cut. Align this marking here with your guideline and then press the safety and squeeze the trigger. You can also attach the small cutting guide that comes with the Parkside jigsaw. To prevent your space from being piled with an insane amount of sawdust, attach a vacuum insert to the back and toggle this button here. What makes a jigsaw a versatile power saw is how it can help you to cut curved shapes or even a hole in the middle of a piece of wood like for an electrical outlet. To do that, you simply need to drill a hole in each corner of the intended cut, insert your jigsaw and proceed to cut. While a jigsaw is versatile, I would say that a miter saw is convenient and quick. The miter saw I use is an old compact model from Ryobi. It can cut wood up to 108 millimeters wide and 38 millimeters thick. It's able to make slender cuts up to 47 degrees and miter cuts up to 45 degrees. I used only the miter saw when doing the entire board and batten for my living room and it was able to give me really nice miter cuts even on some molding pieces. To unlock the miter saw, press down and pull this pin out. Place a piece of wood onto the base and align your cut line to the blade. Once you're happy with the position, tighten the side clamp. Press down on the safety and squeeze the trigger before gently bringing down the saw blade. Release the trigger and wait until the saw comes to a complete stop before raising the blade back up. When you're ready for bigger projects, I would recommend getting a circular saw. It is, in my opinion, the most versatile power saw because you can easily cut almost any thickness of wood and you can also make miter cuts up to 56 degrees. My circular saw is also another compact model from Ryobi and it uses a 160 diameter blade. It's very important to get an appropriate blade depending on your main purpose. I currently have a 42 teeth blade equipped which is considered a general purpose blade that is a good middle ground between fast and smooth cuts. To adjust the blade depth, sit your circular saw flat onto the surface that you want to cut, lift this level up and either pull or push to adjust. To ensure clean cuts and safety, you want the blade to be about five to ten millimeters below the bottom of the wood that you're cutting. If you adjust it to about half the thickness of your wood, you can create slots like how I created some faux shiplap panels for my entryway. I would also highly recommend getting a guide rail to get a perfectly straight cut. This one is from KWB and comes with a bunch of other attachments as well. First, determine your cut line and draw it on a piece of tape. Then, depending on the distance from one end of your base plate to the saw blade, position the guide rail. For example, I'm positioning it 28 millimeters away from the cut line. Insert the clamps into the middle track of either side of the rail and screw tight. Insert the plastic circular saw track, then adjust it until it matches the width of your circular saw. Just like the jigsaw, you can insert a vacuum attachment before inserting the battery and run the circular saw safely from one end to the other of your wood. There are so many functions that a speed square can do, but let me just talk about the basic but most useful functions for DIY and woodworking. To make quick 45 or 90 degree markings, align the lip of the speed square to the edge of your wood. This is especially handy for making quick and easy markings when cutting on the miter saw. You can also use it as a protractor to mark any angle. Hold the speed square at the pivot point and adjust it to the angle that you need. Here, we are marking 25 degrees. The notches you see in the speed square are also handy for making scribes. Simply put your pencil in the notch and then slide the speed square horizontally by pressing onto the lip while ensuring that the pencil is tightly held against the notch. For example, I use this to help me mark a reference point for gluing down this strip of wood. Lastly, I like to use the speed square to verify that all my joints are indeed 90 degrees. I've had multiple comments asking how it's possible my battery-powered nail gun works on our thick concrete walls and the answer is this. This is the Ryobi P320 Airstrike and it was a big investment for me but well worth it. It comes with two adjustment dials. The first one is this big dial at the back that allows you to increase or decrease the amount of air pressure. The second dial is located at the front of the nail gun and this allows you to make even finer adjustments to the depth of the nail, meaning where the nail will sit in your surface. The combination of these two dials are what makes this nail gun strong enough to drive the nail into concrete walls. By default, it is a single fire nail gun but you can also toggle the switch here for multiple fires. To load the nails, press this trigger here to unlock the spring-loaded casing and then slide your nails in ensuring that they are flat before closing the case back. Unlike a traditional push-button safety, the safety is triggered by pushing the nail gun head against a surface. You can use the LED light to help you align your nail gun to a specific point before shooting. If you notice the LED light blinking at any point, it means that either your battery levels are low or some troubleshooting work is needed. I think it's really difficult to enjoy sanding but with the right tools, you'll at least make the activity more tolerable. When I'm sanding smaller areas, I like to use these Bosch sanding blocks that come in different grades. They're made of a strong tear-resistant foam that make them really durable and they last five times longer than a regular sandpaper. They're available in a standard box shape, a combination shape and also a more flexible pad. For larger surfaces like tabletops, I like to use this KWB sanding block. They come with a pack of sandpaper ranging from 60 to 180 grit that you can easily clamp onto the block. For finishing tabletops, I personally like to cut and attach my own 500 to 1000 grit sandpaper which gives the desk a very very smooth finish. And when I need the job done fast, I break out the random orbital sander. This one is again from Ryobi and it's really great for small hands. I avoid using it whenever I can since it's really noisy but it is really great when you need to remove a large surface of material efficiently such as old paint or varnish and it doesn't require much physical effort at all compared to the hand sanders. Pocket holes are a great beginner-friendly joinery that can be created quickly with a pocket hole jig. There are quite a few options in the market and this one from Enjoywood is the main one that I use. To set up, you need to adjust the jig according to the thickness of your wood. Let's say our piece is 13 millimeters. Then do the same for the clamp using the markings on the jig. Insert the stopper into the drill bit and position it until it's around 13 millimeters then tighten the stopper using the hex key. I like to tightly clamp the jig onto a work surface before adding my work piece to the jig. Sometimes I'll also add an extra clamp just to make sure nothing moves around. Then I'll insert the vacuum attachment and drill my pocket holes. If you need to drill multiple holes on one side, you can simply unclamp the piece and slide to the Last but not least, we have clamps which are definitely necessary in your DIY toolkit and I have quite a few different types of clamps meant for different purposes. These mini wolfcraft ones are my everyday go-to. They're tiny but sturdy. I have a total of six of them which is about the maximum I tend to use at any one time. I also have a couple of the larger wolfcraft clamps for larger woodworking projects like when I build the coffee station. When I need extra strong holding power, I reach for these clamps by Bessie. As for 90 degree clamps, these smaller ones from wolfcraft are great for one-handed usage and automatically adjust to the board's thickness. I like to use these to make frames for canvases. When I need something with stronger holding power, I'll use this larger metal corner clamp. They have up to 65 millimeters of clamping width and can be used while laid flat or even mobile. This has been a highly requested video so I hope you were able to get some useful tips or even some courage to start your DIY journey. I'll have everything linked in the comments and if you have any other questions, just leave them in the comments and I'll try my best to answer them. Thanks so much for watching and I'll catch you in the next one!