How to: Cut a Brushback - Mid Fade - Barber Tutorial

What's up, YouTube? Today, we've got a brush back with a fade tutorial, so stay tuned. So first, we're gonna start off by satching my client's hair and combing the hair back into the direction it's gonna be styled. We're taking a section from the corner of his head and taking that straight back. He did have an undercut before. If you guys have seen the other YouTube video, I'll go ahead and have it linked around here. We did the Fury Brad Pitt haircut. So right here, we're just connecting the sides to the longer hair on top. What you do to one side, you do to the other side. Now, as you can see, the hair is flowing back nicely and it's in place. Now, what we're gonna do is go ahead and take some length off from the top. So what we did before was connect the sides to the top. Now, we're gonna go actually remove hair from the top. We're taking two sections, a vertical section, and we're doing about two fingers width, and we're just pulling up, and we're cutting about an inch off. After you're done with that section, we're gonna go ahead and comb the hair over to one side, and then we're gonna now take horizontal sections, and you'll see the short hair from our vertical section, and then you cut, connecting the two together. As you can see, as I pull the section up, you see the short hair on the right side of the screen, and you're gonna cut all that off just until it all blends in. It's very important after you do your sections to go ahead and go back and double check your work and just make sure everything's nice and even. So after the cut, we're gonna go ahead and blow dry the hair in the direction that it was cut. So first, we're gonna start with our number two guard on our ergo clippers right here. Links will be down below if you guys are interested in the clippers or trimmers or anything that I use. We're taking number two, and we're debulking, and we're going around the whole head, dropping it slightly in the back. And what this does is help debulk some hair so that when we come back with our trimmer, it's a lot easier. And now we're gonna follow up with the clipper over comb just to blend in the hairs from the two into the scissor over comb, or the scissor over fingers that we did earlier with our scissor work. This is about a mid-fade with a little drop in the back. So we're starting about a finger above his ear. So if you put one finger above his earlobe, that's where we would start our guideline, and then we're gonna slightly drop it in the back, contouring his head shape. Next, we're gonna go ahead and take our shaver, bald shaver, get it down to skin. This is just gonna make the fade just much tighter and then have another transition. If you are more of a beginner, you could go ahead and do this step at the very end just to help prevent yourself from creating too harsh of a guideline and being hard to remove it. But always give yourself room, just the same way we fade. We always keep extra room so we have a nice transition. So next, we're gonna go ahead and start with our clipper with no guard on there, completely open, and we're gonna create that guideline, about an inch guideline. After that, I'm gonna go ahead and use my number one guard, open, and we're gonna go right under that two guard that we did earlier, and then I'm gonna close the lever down to close, and then we'll have a one guard, a true one guard, and then we'll go to our next step. These are the single magnetic guards that used to come with the Ergo Clippers. Now they have the double magnetic guards, but they are the same system. That's why they don't look like a wall clipper or anything like that, because these are the single magnetic guards that come with the Gammas. And right here, I'm just doing a little clip over comb real quick, just to save some steps and help speed it up. I just saw some little bulky areas that I just want to attack. Also, my client takes his beard down to a one and a half guard, so since I'm already here with the one guard open in my hand, I'm gonna go ahead and just start trimming down his beard, because that's the desired length that he wants, and that just helps you save time, get a little bit more efficient with your time, and it allows you just to be a little bit faster in the shop so that you're not putting a guard down, taking it off, putting another guard, come back to the beard later. Since you got the one guard on there, knock it out of the way real quick, and then go back to the fade. And that will also help your eyes adjust to the fade, so you can not get too tunnel vision and keep trying to work on the area, and then the fade doesn't come out like you'd like it, because you're too fixated on one area. So now we have the next guard, which is the zero guard, and same thing, we're starting open. Especially with this guard, I don't like to go too flat, I like to use the corners to do really detail, because this is more of a blending guard. So I use it completely open, then I'll close it, and then after that, once I go through those steps, I go ahead and move the lever as I need it, because not everyone's head shape's perfect, the hair never blends perfectly how you want it. You have to finesse the clipper, use corners, and open the lever as you need. So now to remove that bald guideline, I have the clipper completely closed, and I'm going up about a quarter of an inch, because like I said, that first guideline was about a whole inch. So first we're starting with it completely closed, going up a quarter of an inch, and then we're gonna slowly open up the lever, and as we're opening up the lever, we're going higher and higher into the fade. All right, so you're gonna start completely closed, go up about a quarter inch, you're gonna open up the lever a little bit more, go up another quarter of an inch, open up the lever a little bit more, go up another quarter of an inch, and then once the lever's completely open, you're gonna be pretty much where you were at when you created that guideline earlier, so that's gonna fade perfectly into it. And then if you did push up the fade a little bit, go ahead and get your next guard, which would be the zero guard, start with it open always, because you can always take more hair off than less hair, and then just play with the lever, and then keep detailing until you have a flawless fade. Now we're just lining up the back of his beard, keeping it super natural, just going with the straightness of his jawline. Whenever I'm lining up the neck, I like to have his head not all the way up, but a little bit above where his head would be neutral if he was just looking straight, just raise up a little bit so you can see the outline of his jaw, and then that's where I place it. So as it's closer to his ear, I'm going higher up on the line, and then as it goes to his Adam's apple, I'm dropping it just so it gives him a nice jawline structure. And then now we're gonna go and razor up his beard. I'm using my Turkish razor, where you can go ahead and find the link down below, everything will be in the link down below. And I'm pulling the skin with my thumb, I have the blade at a 45 degree angle, and I'm pulling straight to that line, and I'm not trying to push down his beard, I'm going to where it's fullest, but where I can get a nice sharp line. Right here, I'm just showing you, this is where I'm really looking for, those five points, and that's how you get that nice, perfect curvature, as you can see the beard, or his mustaches, to the roundness, and then all the way to the C cup area. You want to match those areas, just so they get that perfect symmetrical curvature to his beard. Now right here, I'm just kind of taking some extra length off that wasn't right, and now I'm just gonna line up his forehead a little bit. As you can tell, he doesn't have too much of a hairline, it's pretty much natural, so I'm just cleaning up those baby hairs that just hang over it, just so it looks a lot cleaner and sharper. This is super crucial right here, going against the grain on the beard, the client's super relaxed, and it helps the beard just last a couple extra days. After that, we're gonna go in and enhance his hairline just a little bit, just add that extra pop to the haircut, really make the haircut stand out a little bit, and take it to that next level. We're gonna enhance the beard a little bit too, we're already here, make him look good, make him feel good. You can tell later throughout the video, you start to see his confidence come in, because you know, haircuts do change your lives, it makes you feel good, so that's what we do. If you wanna have hate comments, that's fine, I appreciate it because you guys keep my comment section flooding, and I like the hate, go ahead and bring it, but right now we're just gonna go ahead and just texturize his hair a little bit, just so it has that flow, put a little bit of a cream in there, I think it was a cream or it might have been a clay, we're gonna brush his hair back, as you can see, and now everything's sitting perfectly, everything's in place, every hair is in the place that it needs to be, and man, my guy's looking good now. Sheesh, can I get a sheesh? But thank you, YouTube, hope you guys liked that video, make sure to hit the like button, subscribe, and I'll catch you guys on the next one, right? I'm out.