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Hey everybody and welcome. I am Tech Nervous. Today we're going to go over a quick
how-to course with Kira. So stick around, make sure you reduce your Z offset on that subscribe
button down below and ring the notification bell so you get updated when we post new videos
because I have a ton of content on Kira and it's only getting better and better folks.
If you're curious about how to use this software and how easy it is to 3D print
with Kira, I'm going to show you right now. Let's jump right into this and get going.
All right, so here's the deal. When you begin printing, you start to hear of slicing software
and you may be hearing different things about all kinds of different software from different
companies. One of the names that comes up most often and generally with everybody who's involved
in 3D printing at one point or another is going to be Ultimaker Kira. Now this is developed by
a company for their specific 3D printers, however it is open source and the community that helps to
develop it has put out profiles for pretty much every printer imaginable. As you can see,
my bed here says Ender. This is for an Ender 3 V2 and the profile is pretty dang tuned in.
But what I want to point out to you is the ease of use here because it can be kind of daunting
and intimidating when you set out for the first time to use this software. Basically, the first
thing you're going to do when you open Kira is enter your printer settings. So let's go ahead
and go to our manage printer setting and I can kind of show you what it's going to look like
here. So if I click on let's see printers, let's go to add new and this is basically the options
you're going to get when you start up. So you're going to want to click add non-networked unless
you're plugged into it and you can pretty much see all of these great brands here that they
already have profiles for. Any one of these is going to work pretty well right out of the box
for you. Creality is a pretty popular one so that's how I end up with so many Creality 3D
printing profiles. I'm not going to add this right now but basically all you're going to do is go and
hit add and hit accept and you shouldn't have to change much. It should be ready to go right out
of the box. There will be a few settings that down the road after you start printing a few
prints that you want to go back and tweak. We'll touch on those in some of my later videos but for
now all you need to know is once your machine settings are set this is where you end up.
Right here you have a nice build plate based on your machine if it was one of the pre-built
profiles. If your machine isn't in there don't worry you can go ahead and add it manually.
You will need some items for specifying the line or excuse me the bed width height and your print
dimensions things like that but you can usually find those on your manufacturer's website so if
you're having any problems I recommend a quick google search to find the exact specifications of
your printer but for the most part pretty much any cartesian machine that you can find that's
about the size of an Ender 3 will work really well with that Ender 3 profile and I have done that
tons of times to save myself some setup time. So let's talk about navigation here for a second.
As you can see I'm just kind of grabbing the screen and turning it around and that is my
right mouse button click. If I hold down shift and click that's going to give you a pan to let
you drag around. If you want to zoom into the scene or out that is the scroll wheel pretty
simple pretty straightforward and that's actually one of the most common interface designs as far
as like CAD software and things like that and if you do a lot of 3d printing you're going to get
into making your own models and using some design software so it's pretty intuitive once you get
used to it once you turn on one of these programs and it kind of just falls into place. There are
other ways to navigate the scene such as using the arrow keys that don't seem to want to work right now
but you can also use these buttons down here to get the front face the top the left side
the right side and a three-quarter view that works really really well and basically for navigation
that's pretty much all you need to know. The mouse is your friend here and you definitely want to
have it handy and available. So let's look at some of these settings now these are the recommended
settings that Kira would suggest you look over before printing any print just to make sure you
have them where you want for that specific model and those things are the resolution this is going
to be your layer height the smaller this number the harder it is to see the lines between your
layers but the longer it takes to print because it's printing more layers and you do have a minimal
floor here depending on what printer you're using sometimes the minimum resolution you can't you
can't get a good quality with it because it takes too long and sometimes the minimum resolution is
not quite what they say on the printer so that's one of those things you'll want to play around
with for quality obviously more time usually equals better quality but that is one of the
major things that will add print time if you want to print a prototype and you want it to be fast
and dirty and you just want the model out as soon as possible go ahead and increase this number to
another number within the tolerance of your machine at the higher end and it will print
faster because it will print less layers so this is basically the thickness that it slices each
layer to of your model and the total number of layers will be determined by the model's height
divided by this number so keep that in mind the next thing it tells you to check here is the infill
i have lots of videos on printing with zero infill there are a couple videos out there i'm printing
with 100% infill it just depends on what you're doing but for most models if you don't want to
worry about droopage or anything in in large coverage areas you're going to want your infill
to be around 20% so 15 to 20 is generally a good rule i like to keep mine right about 18 here
so that's uh that's generally where i roll but uh like i said for specific purposes you might want
to increase it if you want more weight in the object or more structural integrity if it doesn't
really have any steep overhangs or right angles at the top of the model you can almost always print
them with zero so it's one of those things where it's a per model basis this gradual infill button
comes in handy it just uses less plastic at the bottom and more at the top which is more for
supporting the top surfaces i was talking about than for strength of the actual model the other
two things listed here are support and adhesion these are two of the most important things to
work with in kira so if i click the support button i guess it would probably help let's go ahead and
grab a model i've kind of been messing around here i didn't even realize i didn't have one in
there let's grab let's grab this model right here we'll drag it that's all you got to do to get the
model in click drag drop and it'll pop up and there it is so this red area here that is the part of
the model that's going to need support now you can go in and designate the exact angle at which the
model turns red and you start to print that support if you go into the custom settings we're
going to talk about that just a minute here for right now let's just go ahead and hit the slice
button and i'll show you what this support does wait a minute before we go any further i have to
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check it out guys and as you can see now that i've hit the slice button nothing has happened
but if we go up here to preview mode instead of prepare prepares for putting our models in moving
them and setting our settings once we slice the preview is where all the magic happens so now
it's going to process the actual build path for this object and it's going to process it in layers
so let's go ahead and watch this breakdown and you'll notice in here a build-up of material that
was not shown on the prepare page so this is my support the settings on this support model are
actually pretty thick i don't think i would have gone with the wall there but that's a particular
thing that we can talk about in a support video and as you can see it looks solid but when you
rotate up it is putting in this pattern here now the pattern the grid pattern you see here
i believe this is zigzag because it goes back and forth and it has an outer perimeter support wall
that outer perimeter support wall you really don't want that on it's kind of a pain in the
butt when it comes to removal but sometimes in some cases it can be handy the number of
lines in between here actually supporting the overhang are determined by your percentage of
infill so as i scroll up here you'll see that those lines begin to meet with the model
and as the model gets larger they scale down in the middle there until finally
they create what is called a support interface or skin so you see these lines all around here
that are pretty uniform they're light blue teal color and they compose the walls of the support
you see these slightly darker bluish color where it's like bluish purple
this cross hatching that is the support interface and that's important to get your support to not
mesh to the inside of your model so makes it a little bit easier to remove support interface
settings are very important settings but also something that you're going to want to play around
with after seeing how they work basically i can tell you right now this model is extremely
over supported realistically i would really only need enough support to cover this front lip here
and then the rest of that is probably going to be okay with my bridging capabilities
and that's another term that we'll talk about later maybe when we get all the way up here to
the top that big gap there that's a great explanation a great see this is the interface
that'll allow it to release however like i said going all the way into the handle with all that
support you're going to be digging it out of the screwdriver forever so support is your friend
but you generally want as little as possible so now that we've discussed support let's go
ahead and turn it off to save us some slicing time and we're going to select adhesion
and i'm not sure what i have for settings in here in adhesion there are some other options like i
said we'll go a little bit into the custom options here in a minute for these settings
but let's go ahead and slice it like this and it looks like we have a brim set that's a good
adhesion type especially for a shape like this these teal lines in this model are representing
the extra layer that's putting down to adhere the actual model to the surface so in a lot of cases
people will use a brim in this case you're going to be peeling all this extra teal material off of
here there is also another option so i think this is a good time to go ahead and segue into the
custom stuff now don't be overwhelmed here there are a lot of options here and i have some
extensions that change some of my options we're going to go ahead and go down to adhesion because
that should be pretty stock so build plate adhesion here we are it says brim brim minimum
length 250 that means there's at least 250 millimeters of perimeter going around the outside
of this and 20 lines so it's going to print 20 lines out from the side of the model that's going
to keep it from knocking over as the nozzle pushes around up here the higher you go the stronger you
want your adhesion to be especially if it's something tall and narrow so that's something
to keep in mind but it's not really necessary if you're printing something large small and flat
or excuse me wide and deep but not high and flat does that make sense so let's go ahead and take
a look at what happens when we change this to skirt we're gonna have to slice it again
and now you'll notice that it's just putting this outer perimeter line around it and not
connecting it with the model so this is what they call a skirt this is useful for purging anything
that might be in the head of your nozzle before actually starting the print and making sure that
things are flowing nicely instead of maybe uh maybe there's some debris in there and it doesn't
or you're getting a little curling under your nozzle because it's not perfectly level
this will basically wipe the nozzle and then start the print which is a very handy thing to do
this is what i use in most cases however the other option is raft and that is basically going to
print a sheet of plastic underneath it and then print the model on top and that's a very very
handy one as well i encourage you to look into that on your own time but for now we're getting
a little long-winded in this video so basically i want to point out if i go back to recommended i
have these four settings if i go into custom each of those settings adhesion support infill
resolution has a bunch more settings so here you see the adhesion this is the support setting
category and if i click on it i get a lot more options so now i can change all of this stuff
some of these are hidden and if you want to find a setting that you don't have showing
basically you do the search settings here and you'll find it uh otherwise if you go to
where is it at preferences configure kira and then settings that's your settings visibility
all of these are checked because they're the ones that i want to be able to tune all the time you
you of course will have less options at first because i did have to go in and turn a lot of
these options on and they're really only for fine tuning so use the options you have available for
you now and then when you run into a problem or an issue that you'd like to correct come back here
and i have some handy videos that will teach you each of these settings and while we're speaking
about that now that you have the gist of it uh i have a handy settings video playlist which is
kira in five minutes or less each one of these settings has its own five minute video and you
can check that out up here at the top make sure that you hit subscribe because i'm always adding
to it as they always change the settings and make sure that you leave a like on this video if this
was helpful to you i really appreciate you guys stopping by i hope you've learned something from
this video and i hope that you stick around and check out some of the other stuff on the page
because i'm sure you can learn a lot more i have a ton of videos and a good majority of them are on
kira and how to use it easily and comfortably so that's going to be it for this video guys
thank you for stopping in techniverse out