What Makes a Watch Rare?

Antique Clock
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1 Video View·Sep 8, 2026
Sotheby's Carl Chen explores the nuances of rarity in watchmaking, unpacking what truly makes a timepiece stand apart. He delves into the three key factors every serious collector should know.
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What does rarity really mean?
To most people, rarity simply means uncommon, but to a watch specialist, true rarity is
much more nuanced.
Let's break it down with some examples.
First, rarity can change with scholarship.
The 5016 has always been an important watch, with platinum with black dials traditionally
being valued more for their rarity.
Only recently though, has the wider community learned that pink gold examples like this
one are even rarer, and only 6 have ever appeared at auction compared to the 14 in platinum
with black dials.
Secondly, condition can be rarity.
Look at this vintage 1601 Datejust.
Tens of thousands of these exist, but this particular one has never seen a day on anyone's
wrist.
It has been sleeping in a drawer since 1975 with its original sticker and hang tags.
When a watch is this perfect, this is rarity that you can feel.
Finally, rarity isn't always intended.
Before 2004, a young F.P.
Jordan made his movements out of brass.
However, after his brand began picking up steam, he switched to using pink gold to elevate
his watches.
Despite brass being less precious, because it now instantly represents an early and rarer
work of Jordan, nowadays it puts a 2 or even 3-fold increase on the value.
Once you understand rarity, you are no longer just asking, how many exist?
You are asking, why is this one truly rare?
And that is what makes rarity valuable.
