Black Diamond Presents: Hard Sends with Seb Bouin—Bibliographie 9b+ (5.15c)

Coming here in Ceyuz to try bibliography, it's kind of big goal for me because I like a lot like the big overhang, with the too far, with like body strength, body tension and here it's like all about like finger, finger power and finger endurance. I'm out of my comfort zone actually. Ceyuz is in the French Alps, it's a really beautiful place with an incredible view and an incredible landscape. This crag is so huge, so big, it's kind of three kilometers of climbing area. It's like a crown in the top of a mountain with a perfect rock and perfect lines. I think it's quite unique because like you're sharing your days with beginners and like top world level climbers and it's kind of really cool. Ceyuz is the most beautiful cliff in the world. It has a lot of history, a lot of really beautiful long run out sport routes with technical face climbing. I really like the style of climbing here. Bibliography is a king line of Ceyuz. It's like the perfect blue line just to the right of the mythical biography. At the moment I am trying DNA, my super big project in Verdun Gorge. But after checking Bibliography, I was amazed by the beauty of the line and the quality of the climb actually that I decided to share my days between DNA and Bibliography. I am trying hard in both of these king lines. So today one more day on Bibliography. I forgot how many days I spent on the route but actually quite a lot, I don't know. I already spent more or less 100 days in DNA and I feel it possible now there is more pressure for the one on the Verdun Gorge because like the season is over in December, end of November, one more month and it's over. Climbing at the same time in DNA and Bibliography it's quite refreshing but in the same time it's quite hard to focus on each route. I bolted Bibliography partly because I was here for a long time in 2011 and I wasn't, I was like working on a few different projects and not sending very many of them and just kind of bored. So I borrowed Arnaud Petit's drill and some bolts from him and wrapped down like the part of the wall with Bibliography and just started putting in bolts like as I went and kind of just followed the holds down the wall and yeah I, you know, I could have put the bolts in a smarter place in a few places but it was like the first route I ever bolted. The crux of Bibliography is really hard because you have to take the hold so perfectly that any mistake cost you the fall. You enter really quite abruptly into a crux which is very hard. I find that it is like a lot of precision. You have to go first on a weird gaston, put your feet up and match just next to this hold and then like that's the hardest move for me. You go up with your body and you have like to go on the left two finger pockets, readjust and then like go fast on the last good crimp. If you take it wrong it's super hard to readjust and then the last move is super hard. It takes so much patience because you really need to learn each of those four holds or each of those five holds really perfectly. You need to know exactly how to take them and, you know, after you know how to take them then you still need to have all this power to move between them and no for sure I mean it's a really, the crux really defines I think a lot of the difficulty in the route to me. It seems like maybe this pocket is good but it's so bad. If you took away the crux it'd be very hard but with the crux it's ******* very hard. I was like training during the evening before the rest day and to stay in like good explosive power because if not series is like killing your power and you're only working with the fingers so your global body is going out. One day I fell on the last move DNA and the day after that I fell on the last move Bibliography but I really don't know the one I will send first because I was thinking definitely Bibliography because it's like a bit smoother. There is a rest between the crux section and the top section of Bibliography. You feel well but at the same time it's super hard to recover well on these two crimps. The top of the route it's really tricky, really serious style and quite tricky with the fingers. You have like just to run onto crimps and like two finger pockets. I definitely underestimated the last part of Bibliography. Trying DNA and Bibliography was too much at some point for sending the routes so it was like really important to finish DNA first and then come to Bibliography. I'm here like now to try to finish the job. You have to be really strategic in series, like just keep your skin, keep your energy for the right time for the right moment. I fell 11 times on the top of Bibliography and I was not thinking I will fall that much up there and I'm actually a bit scared about falling more up there. This weather this year is really shitty. You never know when you can climb. You have to be really all days to see if there is like a window to climb and almost of the day you finish on the storm. It's terrible. So it's raining as almost all the day and we are going to warm up on the local gym, on the local wall to be able to climb if there is a window because like that we can just go and give it two tries. But series is drying up really quickly and it can be dry in two hours so we'll just warm up. We are ready if it's drying up and not body activation for tomorrow. It's kind of hard to be ready every time for for some tries when it's raining because you think you will not climb. It seems there is a good weather window right now. It's a bit more sunny, some wind so we'll try to go up. Okay I'm going. I'm going. It looks chill. Looks solid. Thanks for working this. That was awesome. V2. V2 for you. Actually if I send one I will be happy. If I send both of the project I will be super happy.