Is the only pencil you own an HB a.k.a #2 pencil from school? No worries!! In this tutorial, I use a cheap dollar store pencil (worth only $0.10 as it came in a pack of 20), a regular facial tissue, and a normal sheet of printer paper. The pencil was scratchy and difficult 😐 to blend smoothly - Definitely not the best drawing tool, but it also wasn't the end of the world. Follow along with me as we work through these obstacles together to create a beautiful drawing of full plump lips!
✅ OTHER RELATED TUTORIALS
✏️ TOOLS I USED - Facial tissue (Cheap grocery store brand "No Name")
⏰ SKIP TO TIMESTAMP ⏰ 00:00 - Intro 00:11 - Tools 00:27 - Lip Construction 03:21 - Shade Base Layer 06:42 - Blend 10:09 - Plan Lighting 11:09 - Shading Part 2 14:16 - Blending Part 2 16:05 - Lower Lip Wrinkles 21:19 - Lower Lip Highlights 24:08 - Upper Lip Wrinkles 26:35 - Lower Lip Cast Shadow 27:37 - Upper Lip Highlights 31:07 - Upper Lip Bunched Skin 33:34 - Touchups 34:22 - Slideshow of Entire Process
🧰 MY CAMERA EQUIPMENT Camera and lens for Macro Closeups from the side (Sony a 5000):
👕 RFA STORE:
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AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI Generated
This tutorial teaches how to draw realistic, three-dimensional lips using only an HB pencil, an eraser, and facial tissue. It covers the entire process from initial construction and light source planning to advanced shading, blending, and the addition of fine textures and highlights to create a plump, lifelike appearance.
Hey! I'm Darlene and you're watching a Rapid Fire Art tutorial.
In this video, I'm going to show you how you can use a cheap school pencil to draw realistic lips.
All you'll need for this tutorial is a cheap HB aka number 2 pencil, the eraser it comes with,
a piece of toilet paper or facial tissue, and any decent piece of paper, like printer paper.
Nothing expensive or fancy.
Let's get started.
For all the construction lines, try to keep your strokes very light,
so that later when you eventually shade, they'll blend right in.
I'm going to use dark lines so you can clearly see what I'm doing.
Just start by drawing a line.
It can go straight across, curve up, or down if you like.
This will change the overall shape of the mouth.
The next step is to locate the very center and draw a shallow bowl shape.
On both sides, draw a tick that slants in any direction that you want.
These are the corners of the mouth.
You want to make sure that they're spaced evenly apart.
I'm just using my pencil as a measuring tool, but you can use a ruler instead.
After that, just connect everything together using a wavy line of your choice.
This is the opening of the mouth.
Now I'm trying to make the two sides of the mouth symmetrical.
You can use the line we drew in step 1 as a reference.
Once you're done, we won't need this line anymore, so let's erase that.
The next step is to draw the upper lip.
We want to draw from the middle and work our way out, so locate the middle of the mouth.
I'm drawing a deep smooth curve,
but you can draw something closer to a flat line or a deep v-shape.
It's up to you.
Draw this lower for a thinner lip.
I'm going to go for a thick upper lip.
Regarding the width, I wouldn't make it any wider than a third of the overall mouth.
Make sure these peaks are level, and then connect it to the corners of the mouth.
You can draw a variety of different curves to get the look that you're going for.
I'm going to go for a full upper lip.
I'm just trying to mirror the left side so that the lip appears symmetrical.
Stand back, have a look, check your drawing in the bathroom mirror to reveal errors,
and it looks like I need to fix mine a little bit.
For the lower lip, we're also going to start drawing from the middle and work our way out.
The distance from the mouth's opening will determine the thickness.
If you want to draw a mouth that has dark lipstick or
full lips that curve or curl out to a great extent,
continue drawing this outline to the very corners of the mouth.
If not, you can stop part way.
Make sure to feather your strokes out at the ends.
The next step is to shade, but before we do,
make sure your construction lines are very light.
I'm keeping them dark so you can clearly see what's going on.
Let's shade a light, even layer of graphite over the entire area
so it's clearly a different shade than the rest of the paper.
To make the shading process quick and easy,
rotate your pencil to the side with the most exposed graphite.
Using an overhand grip on your pencil like so,
test your stroke somewhere else until you get a thick line.
Thick lines are great for shading quickly and smoothly.
A regular writing grip will make it difficult to shade smoothly
because the lines come out thinner, which can make your shading look scratchy.
For even thicker lines, you might want to consider stripping off some of the wood
to expose even more graphite.
My pencil is very scratchy right now.
If yours is too, you can scribble off to the side until it feels smooth again
or rotate your pencil to a smoother side.
I got this pencil from the dollar store a long time ago
and it doesn't seem to want to cooperate with me.
The closer your strokes are to each other, the better.
I'm just shading in one direction.
To draw long consistent strokes,
limit the movement in your fingers and wrist
and instead use your elbow and shoulder to move.
Anytime you lose your grip or put your pencil down,
remember to do a test scribble to make sure your lines are just as thick and smooth
before shading again.
There are some areas of minor inconsistency,
but let's not worry about those now.
Here's a tip.
If you're not sure how light to shade this first layer,
somewhere off to the side,
shade from as light as you can to as dark as you possibly can, gradually.
Now you can see what shades your specific pencil is capable of making.
Your result may look different from mine.
We want to use a light value for this layer
and save our darker values for later.
Your drawing will lack contrast if you go too dark too early
because we only have an HB pencil to work with,
giving us a small range of values.
You might find that with your HB pencil,
you need to press down very hard to get a dark value.
This can warp your paper,
rip it or make the surface look extremely reflective.
If you encounter this,
you might want to consider using a thicker, more durable paper
or avoid using such dark values.
Keep this value chart within sight so you can refer back to it constantly,
especially if you're like me and tend to get carried away.
Check that your shading is even and there are no gaps.
Now let's blend all of our shading so it's nice and smooth.
Use any tool of your choice.
I advise against using your finger to blend
because the oils from your skin can smear the graphite
and make your drawing look blotchy.
But if you have no other alternatives,
just make sure you wipe your fingers with a clean cloth before you blend.
A cheap blending tool is any soft facial tissue or toilet paper
wrapped around your finger.
Lightly blend the graphite out.
Since we shaded flatly, I'm just blending in random directions.
Frequently switch to a clean spot on your tissue to continue blending.
You can see how effective the tissue is
compared to the finger blending I did on the lower lip.
If you see any blemishes,
dab it away with a clean eraser and blend the area again.
I'm just going to blend the lower lip again using the tissue.
Our goal here is to just push that graphite
into all the little valleys of the paper to reduce how grainy it looks.
You can see how my finger oils have created slight blemishes on the lower lip.
If for any reason your shading looks inconsistent after blending,
just add more graphite in the lighter areas and then blend it again.
If your tools aren't really cooperating with you like mine are,
just do the best that you can and move on.
We're going to be layering on a lot more graphite
so this layer doesn't have to look perfect.
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Now let's get back to the tutorial.
The next step is to plan your lighting.
How many light sources do you want?
And where will they come from?
I'm going to have a single light source shining down from the top left.
In general, areas that are facing the light directly will be the lightest
and areas facing away will be the darkest.
In this case, with the light shining down on the mouth
the top of each lip will appear lighter than the bottom.
It might help to think of the mouth from the profile view.
With the light shining down at this angle
the brightest zones might appear right here
where the surface of the lip faces the light directly.
And then as each lip curves away from the light source
it'll become darker and darker.
I'm going to use this information to shade my drawing.
We also need to account for reflections and cast shadows
but I'll get into those a little bit later.
To learn more about light, click on the tutorial in the top corner of this video
or in the description.
Okay, now that we've decided on the lighting
let's introduce a slightly darker value along the upper lip
to reflect roughly how the light would affect it.
Shade the shadow side of your lip
the one facing away from your light source.
As you work your way up into the area where the lip faces the light
feather your strokes for a gradual transition in value.
Don't worry too much about making this part look pretty.
Right now we're just laying down another base layer
to set up for some detail work later on.
If the opening of the mouth becomes difficult to make out
darken it a little more.
Moving on to the lower lip.
I'm going to shade around the bottom and side edges
to show where the lip curves away from the light
giving it form.
If you want your lower lip to look less plump
don't emphasize this shadow too much
because the intensity of this shadow
indicates how much the lip curves away from the light source.
Shade in whatever direction feels comfortable to you
as long as your strokes blend together well.
Before we blend this out with a tissue
let's also shade the cast shadow below the upper lip.
A cast shadow forms when an object blocks light
from reaching another.
Shade the cast shadow lighter gradually
as you work your way down.
I don't want to make the cast shadow that thick
because the thicker it is
the more the upper lip will stick out.
Here's a clear example of what I mean from the side view.
The more the upper lip sticks out
the more light is being blocked from reaching the lower lip
which could translate to a larger cast shadow.
Avoid making your cast shadow the same thickness
all the way along.
It will look more natural
if the shadow thins out here and or here.
Let's blend our drawing again.
This time since we've introduced a darker value
we need to be careful not to smear it.
So carefully blend from a light zone
into a darker zone
and use a clean spot on the tissue with every swipe.
Avoid going from dark to light
because you can smear your work.
If you need to blend this area
and don't want to soften out that clean edge
along the upper lip
try using a different blending technique.
Fold your tissue over several times
to build up thickness.
Use one hand to clamp the top edge
and then fold the tissue in on itself
to get a sharp corner.
You should now have a hard pointy tip
to do some precision blending with.
Clamp the tissue tightly
so it doesn't become loose
then use the very tip
to blend along the top edge of your shadow.
Rotate to a cleaner spot on the tissue
as you work your way down into the lighter zones.
With some graphite stuck to the tissue
we can also use it similarly to how we'd use a pencil.
Just be careful when working in lighter areas.
If you're using light strokes
it'll be much easier to control.
Your shading should now look much smoother.
If you're happy with how your drawing is starting to shape up
we'll go right ahead and add a few layers of detail
while darkening the shadows more
to further bring out the plump shape of the lip.
Now let's add some thin wrinkles
along the bottom of the lower lip.
I'm going to build upon the shadow areas
making it darker and darker with each pass.
Refer to your value scale.
See how much darker you can shade
and where you want to save those darkest values for.
I'm using the tip of my pencil this time
with a writing grip
creating subtle wrinkle lines
that follow the plump contour of the lip.
Here are some contour lines
to help you better understand the direction I'm shading in.
I'm shading like this where I introduce random peaks.
If you like to show a lot of wrinkle texture
you can space your strokes further apart.
For a smoother texture
draw them closer together.
I'm leaving a small sliver of space
along the very bottom of the lip
to account for reflected light.
Light that bounces off the chin
and brightens up the very bottom of the lip.
In very narrow spots
sometimes I shade in a loopy pattern like this for speed.
For more apparent wrinkles
press a little harder
and draw individual strokes
that feather out as you flick your pencil upward
so the end of the stroke doesn't look too blunt.
If there is a very clear difference
between your shadow area and light area
introduce a middle tone
a value that's somewhere in between
to make the transition appear gradual.
As you can probably see
I'm being a little bit sloppy here
but you want to try to shape your strokes
so they follow the contour of the lip.
Here's what it looked like before
and after introducing the middle tone.
The lip looks properly curved now.
If you like seeing these wrinkle textures
keep it as is.
If you want to emphasize some wrinkles
choose a few random ones and darken them slightly.
I'm gonna blend mine a little
so they're more subtle.
I'm very carefully blending the darkest areas
separately from the light areas
to avoid smudging my work.
Now that that's done
I feel like the cast shadow under the upper lip
could be darker.
I think it's good to go back and forth
building your values up layer by layer like this
and taking your time
instead of shading as dark as you can right away
because it's easier to add graphite
than to take it away
especially if you're working with limited tools
like we are now.
Let me just quickly blend this.
Once you're done
the lip should go from dark, medium, light, medium to dark.
The intensity of each value is up to you
and your personal preference.
It's finally time for highlights.
Check where your light source comes from again.
Mine's coming from the top left.
I'll draw my highlights more
along the left side of the lip.
As you go along
make sure you're not drawing the highlights
straight across the lip.
We want to create a slight curve instead.
Some of my highlights are thin and long
others are short and wide.
We want some variety.
You can rotate your eraser
to get different thicknesses.
As you move left and right
remember the contour of the lip
and curve your lines accordingly
to further support that plump shape.
If you make a mistake
or something doesn't look good
don't worry.
Sharpen your pencil
and lightly fill that space in.
If you want the lip to look matte
create disconnected highlights.
For a glossy lip
clump your highlights together
into one large one
and smooth out the edges.
See how this large smooth edged highlight
looks glossier than the disconnected ones around it?
If your eraser isn't doing a good job
at creating clean highlights
clean your eraser by rubbing it
on a blank piece of paper first.
If your eraser is too blunt
to make thin highlights
cut a piece off
and then use the pointiest
or sharpest end.
As I work outward
from the main area I want to highlight
I spread my highlights out
and make them appear smaller
more subtle.
If you can't seem to erase
just a tiny amount of graphite
erase it as best as you can
and then sharpen your pencil
to fill back the graphite
that you over erased
until you're happy with the size and shape.
Let's hop back to the upper lip
and give it some wrinkle lines
like we did for the lower lip
drawing them along the shadow side
but this time using lines
that radiate outward like so.
Again I'm using the very tip of my pencil.
Let's avoid shading this small sliver of space
along the bottom
to account for reflected light.
Build this shadow up slowly
in layers.
I'm creating a wavy pattern
roughly following the wavy pattern
that we see along the bottom edge of the lip.
Play with your stroke spacing and intensity
to achieve the look that you're happy with.
I'm going to blend mine
so the skin looks smoother
but there's still some wrinkle detail.
For some reason though
my wrinkles are not showing up as well on camera.
Anyway
if your subtle outline around the upper lip
hasn't disappeared by now
erase it carefully
and or shade a flat layer of graphite
over the rest of the lip
using the side of your pencil
until it's no longer noticeable.
Blend the entire upper lip very well.
As you blend the shadow side
let the tissue smudge the reflection
to make it very subtle.
If your light source is coming from the left
like mine
add a slightly darker layer of graphite
on the right half of the upper lip.
Once you're done
the upper lip should be darker
than the lower lip overall
because it angles down
facing away from the light.
I now have a shadow that runs
along the bottom half
and another along the right half of the lip.
I know it looks kind of weird right now
but I promise things will work out later
when we give the lip more detail and shape
using our eraser and tissue.
Before we do that
I just want to add a cast shadow
directly below the lower lip
to make the drawing look a little more interesting.
This is an optional step
and you can make the shadow as light
or as dark as you want it to be.
I'm drawing a clean dark line
where I want the lip to end.
This shadow brings out nicely
the bit of reflected light
along the lower lip.
I'm shading lighter
as I move toward the left and right
as well as down toward the chin.
Also since my light source
comes from the left side
the cast shadow will be more prominent
on the right side.
Use a tissue to blend the graphite out very well
and while you're at it
gently smudge the reflection
to decrease its intensity.
Okay now for the really fun part.
Let's use our eraser
to lighten up certain parts of the upper lip
to give it more shape and texture
at the same time.
First make sure you clean your eraser
very well beforehand.
Then go along these parts of the lip
creating thin light strokes.
Curve each stroke
to follow the contour of the lip
like you did earlier
when drawing the wrinkles.
Vary the length of each stroke.
Group your strokes close together
building them up using multiple layers
and avoid creating a noticeable pattern.
I'm just quickly going back and forth
without overthinking
exactly where I'm erasing.
Just try your best to erase lightly
and build your strokes up layer by layer
like we've been doing with the graphite.
But also don't worry if the strokes look too harsh
because we're going to soften these up later
using a tissue.
When you're done
the lip should look kind of stripey
and the right side should still be slightly darker
than the left overall
because it's in shadow.
Now let's blend this
so the wrinkles look more natural.
Make sure to clear off any eraser crumbs
from your drawing beforehand
even if they're tiny
otherwise you could drag them across your drawing
and make a mess.
I just dusted them off
using a loosely held tissue.
Again, try to blend from a light zone
into a darker one
to avoid unwanted smudges.
Once the wrinkles look soft enough for me
I'll stop blending.
Next, let's create some very thin highlights
along the top left of the lip
super close to the edge.
If your eraser is too round and thick
to erase exactly where you want
pinch or cut off a piece
and use the pointiest part.
Highlights should be the lightest value in your drawing
so erase these very well.
At the middle of the cupid's bow
this part
you can continue to stick close to the edge
or travel a little further down.
So if you're happy with how your drawing looks now
you can stop here.
If you want to bunch up the skin like so
please continue.
The skin at the middle of the upper lip
when resting
is usually the most bunched up.
To make the skin look that way
we need to go along the bottom edge of the upper lip
and make it more wavy.
Here's an exaggerated example of what I'm going to do.
I'll draw these pinched triangle shapes
that are varied in size
and I'll space them out randomly.
Some can be linked together.
Shade all of them in
and then draw wrinkle lines coming from each one.
These can be slightly curved
or even veiny looking.
If your wrinkle lines are already very prominent
you can pick a few that you want to emphasize
and arrange the wave pattern based on that.
Draw your pinched triangle shape below each one.
You can leave these areas alone
or make them a little wavy.
I want to deepen my wrinkles some more
by darkening the wrinkle valley
and then after I'm done that
I'll lighten the spaces between them
using my eraser
to make the skin appear raised.
Lighten your stroke as you work your way up.
To further bring out these wrinkles
use your eraser
to lighten the space between each one
making the skin appear raised.
When you're done
take a step back
and look at your entire drawing
to see if you'd like to apply any touch-ups.
I want to add some shading
around the corners of the mouth.
I'm just putting down a little bit of graphite
and then blending it out extremely well
so it kind of fades into the background.
I think the lower lip would look even better
if I extended the shadow on the right
just to highlight how plump the lip is
and then blend it out.
If your drawing doesn't pop out
as much as you'd like
try things like brightening zones
that face the light
or using correction fluid
to get a bright white highlight
and or darken zones
that are turned away from your light source
creating a greater value contrast.
Here's a look at the entire process
from beginning to end.
Want to see more tutorials
using just an HB pencil?
Let me know by hitting the like button
and subscribe if you want to see
more detailed drawing tutorials
like this one.
Here are some other videos
I think you might enjoy.
Thanks for watching
and I'll see you in the next one.
Thanks for watching
and I'll see you in the next one.