Which Gevrey Premier Cru Should I Buy?

Most people think Gevrey-Chambertin is all about power. But once you see how these wines change depending on where they sit on the slope, you cannot unsee it. Because Gevrey isn't just structure. At its core, it's a red fruit appellation with a distinctly savoury finish. And within it, there's a level of nuance that often gets overlooked. The wines from just north of the village and above the road, where the Côte Saint-Jacques lies, are typically the fullest in volume. Today, I'm sharing five bottles from my cellar, all from the Côte Saint-Jacques, which, to my palate, represent some of the finest expressions of Gevrey-Chambertin. We will go from north to south across these five premières crues. Les Champots, Combes Moines, Les Castiers, Clos Saint-Jacques and Lavaux Saint-Jacques. By the end of this video, you will understand how location shapes style in Gevrey. How these top premières crues differ from one another. And which ones really stand out, both in the class and in value. First, a bit of history. The discovery of a Gallo-Roman vineyard in 2009 confirmed that vines were already cultivated here in the 1st century AD. By the 6th century, Grégoire de Tour, often called the father of French history, was already praising the wise of the Dijon region. In 640 AD, Amalguerre, Duke of Burgundy, donated vineyards to the newly founded Abbéy de Baize. Then, in 1847, Gevrey-en-Montagne became the first village to adopt the name of its most famous vineyard, becoming Gevrey-Chambertin. Now, let's get into the wines. 1st cru Les Champots, Domaine de Nemorthée, 2015. Spanning 6.68 hectares on the mid-slope at Gevrey's northern edge, Les Champots sits on thin red and brown soils, with bedrock close beneath. The name simply means, the fields. And the vineyard is divided into small, sometimes walled plots. While it can produce generous wines, it doesn't always reach the precision of Gevrey's very best sites. Domaine de Nemorthée owns four plots across the vineyard, totaling 0.41 hectares. I bought this in 2018 for 105 US dollars. It's now around 300 dollars. This is a wine with real presence. Structured, energetic, and full of bright red fruit. There is a polished feel to it, with a clear mineral fret running through the finish. Approachable now, but with a structure to age well. From vines between 70 and 100 years old, this is a standout example of Champot in the right hands. 1st cru Combe aux Moines, Domaine Foyer, 2018. Planted as early as the 7th century by Benedictine monks, and later held by the monks of Cluny, Combe aux Moines spans 4.77 hectares. It's a respected site, though generally considered just below its southern neighbors in finesse. The vineyard is steep and east-facing, with Weimar above and iron-rich soils below. These conditions produce powerful, age-worthy wines. Foyer's Passo is 0.87 hectares. I bought this in 2022 for 250 US dollars. It's now around 260 dollars. From very old vines planted between 1926 and 1928, this is a wine of precision and energy. It's fresh, structured, and quietly powerful beneath the surface. There is a natural tension here, elegant, but with real drive. A great example of what Jean-Marie Foyer has brought to this often-overlooked site. 1st cru Les Casquiers, Domaine Fevelé, 2015 Les Casquiers is a 9.12 hectare east-facing vineyard on a steep slope right next to Clos Saint-Jacques. Its name comes from the Latin castellari, referring to fortified structures, built here in 1257. It's one of the standout sites of the Clos Saint-Jacques, known for wines that are precise, complex, and deeply satisfying. Fevelé holds the largest Passo at 4.06 hectares. I bought this in 2018 for 17 US dollars. It's now around 120 dollars. This wine shows both power and freshness. It's smooth, expressive, and well-balanced, with a lively lift through the finish. A very polished, stylish take on Casquiers, and still one of the better values in the appellation. 1st cru, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Sylvie et Moulin, 2015 Clos Saint-Jacques is a 6.7 hectare walled vineyard on a southeast-facing slope, with white mar at the top and more complex soils below. It's widely considered the top 1st cru in Gervais. Only 5 producers own it, each working vertical strips from top to bottom. A great Clos Saint-Jacques often drinks like a Grand Cru, just slightly less complete, though that's almost a technicality. Sylvie et Moulin owns 1.6 hectares. The name comes from Saint James the Great, and the vineyard lies along the medieval pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Saint-Jacques also means scallop in French, as many pilgrims, after reaching Compostela, would go to the Galician coast to collect scallop shells as proof of their journey. I bought this in 2017 for 95 US dollars. It's now around 215 dollars. This is a beautifully balanced wine, combining resfaint with finesse. It has energy, clarity, and quiet confidence. It doesn't dry too hard, yet it delivers consistently. And compared to its peers, it remains relatively accessible. This has become my go-to Clos Saint-Jacques. 1er cru, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Domaine de Nimmortier, 2010. Lavaux Saint-Jacques is one of the largest and best 1er cru in Gervais, at 9.5 hectares. It sits just next to Clos Saint-Jacques, on a south-facing slope influenced by cool air flowing through the Combe de Lavaux. It's often one of the last sites to be harvested. The wines here tend to be more refined, favoring red fruit and precision over sheer density. Mortier Sparcel is 1.16 hectares. I bought this in 2014 for 105 US dollars. It's now around 520 dollars. This is a wine of elegance and control. It's vibrant, detailed, and beautifully balanced. There's depth here, but it's deliberate without weight. At 16 years old, it shows purity, freshness, and remarkable finesse. The superb expression of Lavaux Saint-Jacques and one of the Nimmortier's finest. These are the 1er crus of Gervais Chambertin that I most enjoy sharing with friends and family. They always lead to great conversations about style, value, and how each vineyard expresses itself. To my palate, each offers a distinct and compelling interpretation of Gervais. Some have seen sharp price increases, while others still represent excellent value for the quality they deliver. If this helped you see Gervais Chambertin a little differently, not just as power, but as nuance, shape by place, feel free to subscribe. You will find more of my cellar insights and tasting notes over on Instagram. Massive thanks for watching today, and I will see you in the next one.