Installing A Window In A Garden Room

Do not adjust your screens. Bradley has not got younger and better looking. I'm Ryan of R. Davis Electrical and I'm back to do some electrics. Or not, apparently. We're gonna cut out this window, aren't we? Shush. He complains a lot. You know what electricians are like? They just complain all the time. I'm trying to make it multi-train. You could do everything. You could build the building and do the electrics. Now, we are gonna be installing a window into your garden room. What that's gonna do is bring a lot more light in here and make it look bloody lovely. Our next job is to measure this wall. So, me and Davis are gonna do that now. Go on, have a guess. How wide? Ooh, 310. No chance. You're cheating. So, we're gonna take our measurement and we're gonna divide that by two. So, go back on there and we're just gonna mark ourselves a centre mark, which for us is actually right in between these panels. And remember, if you're ever gonna cut out your own window, follow these steps. Right guys, apparently Davis wasn't good enough for this step. So, they've got me in instead. They're putting my skills to good use. Phil, why don't we do it? So, we've got Foxy the decorator. No, stop measuring things. Maybe I need to get rid of him as well. So, in your kit, you should be getting two inserts. So, we've got one in anthracite to match our building. That'll go on the outside. And then we've got one in white. They'll go on the inside to match the inside. So, whatever kit you order, the size you've ordered for your particular window, in the instructions, it will have a cutout size. Now, what are we doing? Right, now follow us back inside. Right guys, follow us back inside. We're gonna mark that on the wall. So, we're gonna take our measurement equidistant of the centre line to find out the cutout position of our window. We're gonna make equal marks each side of our centre line. I don't know why he's using big words. Oh, did you see that magic? That was lovely. Right, now that me and Chris have marked the sides of our cutout, so where we're gonna be cutting to, remember, always working from our centre line, we now need to pick, feel like I'm on QVC. Yeah. We now need to pick where we want the bottom of our window to start. But when you're doing this, remember that you need to make sure you've got the clearance on the slanting roof. So, that's where we're gonna be putting ours. We can now measure from that up using the measurements inside your instructions. So, if we get Chris to hold that down there. I'm holding that down there. And then I'll mark up here. And then we mark to that mark. And now we have got a top, a bottom, and two sides ready to mark our hole at. So, you see the mark that Phil's put here. We're gonna use our spirit level to line out the bottom of the window using that mark. So, now we've got our bottom line. We are gonna do the upstands either side of the window using our spirit level. We're gonna repeat the process on the top. Right, so now that we have marked out for our opening, you're probably wondering how we're gonna get this on the outside. So, the way we do that is we use a metal drill bit. These panels are 100 millimetres. So, we've got 120 mil bit. And we're gonna be drilling in through the corners. And then we'll just connect those corners up outside. So, what we're gonna be doing to make sure we don't veer off, we've got ourselves a little centre punch. This is quite thin still. So, we can just use any old centre punch. And when we centre punch this, we wanna make sure that we're far enough away that our drill bit doesn't go outside of our lines. Guys, if you're liking these types of videos, make sure that you follow, leave a comment down below and smash that like button on Foxy the Decorators page right here on YouTube. Bob, Bob, Bob, Bob, Bob, Bob. Bob, no, no. The Home Improvements channel, where everything is fixed. Foxy the Decorators page, right here on YouTube. Cut it off, cut it off. Right, so we're gonna drill through our wall with our drill bits. Remember, we need to keep these as square as possible, because obviously it's gonna reflect in the cutout we make in the opposite side. So, me and Davis, because I'm about to sack off Chris again, while pulling his weight, are gonna get the first holes drilled. So, now the first two holes are drilled, we're gonna do the opposite side. And because Phil is vertically challenged, I'm gonna do this opposite high hole right now. Right, so now that we've got our holes in our corners, we're gonna use a jigsaw with a supplied jigsaw bit and cut around our line. You don't wanna be using an angle grinder on this, because the metal will get hot and we don't wanna burn any of the protective film on the inside or outside. So, before we do cut this, we will be marking and doing the same thing on the other side. You want to cut the same thing from both, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa. Not you, I've seen what you do with a saw. But we do wanna be doing the same process from both sides, so we have a nice, neat hole. Right, so now we're on the outside of the building. It's the same process, except you should already be level from the corners of your holes, which we are. We're just gonna run ourselves a pen mark between them, both sides and top and bottom. Top of the hole. Yeah, boy, yeah. We're just filming for social media. Right, so now that Phil has done a nice, clean cut all the way around, we're gonna go from the inside and start pushing it out, being careful, and making sure it comes out evenly. Help us! Now that we've got our hole and we've as bowed the panel out of the building, it's now time to seal in the two parts that we got. So we're gonna come in about 20 millimetres away from this edge. We're gonna run a bead. We're gonna be using CT1 and clear. And we're gonna be running a bead all the way around this opening. And make sure it's a decent thickness. We're not being too tight because this is gonna be sealing in the two parts. Right, when it comes to any joins that you may have cut around, we need to fill these completely up with our sealant. So all we're gonna do is come up into our window opening and just make sure these are fully sealed. And why do we need to do that, Phil? Because we don't want any water getting in these. Water's the enemy! So now that we've got our bead of silicone around the outside, we're gonna get our first piece on. Now this one is actually larger than this one. So if you wanna start inside, you can, but we're not gonna be fixing anything until we've got both pieces slid into each other. And then we're gonna rivet them in to the metal on the outside and inside. Like a glove! Look at that. Fits like a glove. So I'm gonna repeat the process on the inside, sealing just above this edge so that when we put our inside piece on, we get a nice, tight seal. I think Chris is a bit excited about his Unilite stuff. Chris, tell him you love it. I love Unilite. Do you know what? I think it's crazy. I actually have always used Unilite stuff before anybody even sent me stuff. So it's really cool that they sent me things because it's the best, isn't it? It just is, isn't it? Would you use anything else? Never! Not me. Yuck! Not me. Not me, boy. No, no way. Unilite are the boys. We've got our second bead running around our opening. Thanks to Chris over there. Right, so now we can get our second piece of frame in. This one actually goes above the one we've already got in. Just gently tap that in. Okay, so all you do with these clamps is you just put them like this. And then you, this thing here, you... Show him what to do. No, no, I can do it. You just, all you do is tighten that. So on these, these are just quick clamps we've got. You don't have to use these particular ones. I've done it! I did it, I did it, look. Where are them clamps from, Chris? They are from Lego. No, Bussi. Bussi? Bessie. Are you sponsored by Bessie? No, but if they are, open to offers, we can work something out. Now that Chris has stopped messing around again, so this might not be in the instructions, but we're actually gonna clamp these two together while we're installing them because if you come closer, what we can actually do is really get these tight against the building. As you can see, they're moving together while we drill and rivet, which we will be doing next. Okay, so now that that window is in, sealed, and we've got our clamps on, we have got the better, younger, more handsome brother in to draw the line, but only because Phil didn't wanna use the spirit level. He wanted to do it by hand. So Bradley is now gonna draw a straight line using his spirit level for where we will be plumbing in those rivets. Lovely work, Bradley. So something that Brad's missed while he was using his little spirit level, these are 60 mil, these little reveals on these trims. I recommend going 20 mil in from the outside edge. Reason being, we want as much material behind here for our rivets that we're gonna be drilling and putting inside. So once we've got our mark, we can put one at the top, one at the bottom. So you're more than happy to try this. Give it a go. And then all we do, we just lock our finger on and we just scroll down through our two marks and then we can just patch that bit in because I went a bit light. And Phil, why are we using rivets instead of screws? Because they leave a nice, flush finish. So if you was keeping this as your finished interior, it looks a lot nicer than having screws everywhere. Is that the white spirit? Can you get me the white spirit? Yeah, it's outside. What happened? It has got white spirit on it. It's just loads of ink, isn't there? Phil messed it up. Notice I didn't swear then, so I knew this would actually go in. So now that the frame is in position and we've got our clamps on, we need to drill holes. So if you look at your instructions, your particular kit will have measurements for where you need your rivets. So we're gonna mark those. I'm 20 mil in from the edge. And then using the supplied bit, we're gonna drill through. And then with the supplied rivets. Is it a rivet or is it a little sword for a mouse? It's a little sword. On guard. So then we put the large side into the hole. We're using white rivets on the inside. Again, it doesn't matter for us, but if you're keeping this, it's nice to have the color-coded side. And then using the supplied rivet gun, we slide it open all the way down. And then if you squeeze the handle, and you should do this two or three times until it snaps off. And that is it clamped in. We're gonna work our way around. Another thing we're gonna do that might not be in the instructions is we're gonna follow with our clamp, keeping this nice and tight as we go. So this is as tight as it possibly can be. But one thing to know, if your instructions specify a point where it lands on a joint, just offset your rivet so that it's in a solid piece of panel because we don't want to be hitting this. It won't grab very well. And as you can see, I've got the clamp tight next to where we're going. So it's nice and tight. That's it. So we have done all the rivets on the inside. We're just doing the rivets on the outside now. For the exterior, we are using Anthracite 7016 rivets for this. Phil is just drilling some holes, pilot these, and I will be going in and lifting them in, tightening it up. Going around with the clamp at the same time to make sure that everything's nice and tight. Notice how when Phil is drilling, he's keeping it nice and straight so that the drill goes in directly straight, not up, not down, not all over the place so that these rivets fit in nice and tight. So a few safety tips while doing this, because we are cutting through metal, we're gonna have these little metal filings. So Phil is wearing these Uni-Lite goggles. I'm not supposed to buy Uni-Lite, but Uni-Lite, if you wanna sponsor me, you can hit me up on my email address. It's christianjdavos at gmail.com. It's now time to install our actual window. So we've cut our seal down to the width. We're not having any horns around the corners. This is gonna be flush on ours. We've got ourselves a bit of clear CT1. We're gonna do a bead all the way along the bottom. Right, now that we've got our bead, we can stick our actual seal into position. The position of our seal, the way we recommend it, so this is from us to you, is to sit it in line, so if I show you this side, with this gray edge so that you haven't got this lip to contend with. So we're just flush along there. Still gives us a little bit of a return on the outside, and it's much easier to mount it this way. So we need a little bit more silicon, and then we can slide our window in. So we're gonna need silicon on these sides here. So we're just gonna run a bead in there. And we're also gonna wanna bead along this back edge, all the way across. So now that our seal is sat into position, and we've got our silicon in, we can now lift our window up and into position. So Chris is gonna help. So that's our window in position. Me and Chris have just chucked some packers into the top, just for now, they're nothing special. They're just to stop it from falling out. Then we can go back inside and start looking at squaring it up. I'm Foxy the Glazer, and what we're doing now is Phil's just packing in this window. We're gonna start fixing it. Now, with this particular window, and with most windows, apparently, this is the right way to do it. I'm just learning this now. You do not wanna fix directly into this bottom piece, because you're gonna drill a hole through it, and then into the sill, and that's gonna create a space where the water can get through. We're just fixing it at the sides here and at the top. So as we said, we're gonna start off one side, and we're gonna get this nice and plumb, both ways. So if we take our level, what I've done, I've put some packers in the side, so we're gonna have a fix in here and here. If you look at the level, we're already nice and plumb there. Just remember, though, when we open this sash and swing it open, the window is gonna wanna fall out, so that's why we've got our handy little Chris outside. So when we open this, he's just gonna take the weight of it and make sure we don't move too much. Then we'll get our self-drilling screws. So these are self-drilling screws. Because they're going through this steel, that's why we need to use these. So we're gonna be drilling where we've got our packers because otherwise it's gonna crush the framing. So what I mean when I'm saying plumb both directions, so we are now level or plumb this way, and if we put it on the side, we're also plumb in this direction. So this whole side of the window is beautiful. So what we're doing now, we've done this side. It's all nice and straight and plumb. Phil is just fixing in this side of the window. Phil has started at the bottom and made sure it's plumb so it's got a little bit of wiggle room at the top to make sure it's nice and plumb at the top. So what I'm doing now is I'm packing the top, making sure the top is nice and flat, and we're just gonna put the fixing in the centre, in the centre, in the centre, and we can look at glazing. So all we're doing now is we're just removing this faceplate here to get the glass in. Faceplate? Beads. Beads! To get the glass in. We've removed all of them because we're gonna wanna put packers at the bottom to get the glass in bang on in the middle. Chris is pretty much mostly right, but another thing you should do is just quickly mark your beads because these have been mitered for their exact position. If you start jumbling them around, the joints in the miters are not gonna be the best. So let's go grab some glass. So we've got our piece of glass. This is the piece of glass for the middle. Glass is inside and outside facing. It says on the glass here, this surface must face in the room interior. So we've gotta make sure this part faces inwards. So I've chucked the pane of glass into the opening. Glass doesn't actually fit properly inside the gap. It's designed to be slightly smaller. So as you can see up here, we've got about a 15, 20 mil gap. So we need to split the spacing so that this black edge isn't seen from the outside or the inside. We've spaced the window out, so we've got some spacers in the side, some packers, some packers in the bottom. So the window is sat central to the opening. Now what we do is we chuck our top bead back in. So we just smack this in like so. We're then gonna install our bottom one. The reason we start with the top, it's just gonna stop it from falling out. So then we do the same with the bottom. Right, once we've got the top bead and the bottom bead in, we can start moving on to the sides. The way we do these is we start on the top left corner or the top right corner. So we get inside like this. And then what we do is we push up so that miter closes up there. And then we do the same on the bottom. The reason we do that is it allows us to bend our bead into position. So now we've got the top and the bottom in, we can then work our way either up or down. And then we can do the same on the other side. Right, that's our central piece of glass, our middle bit fitted and installed with the beads installed. Now, when it comes to the sashes, these parts that open, little openers, you need to toe and heel these. So basically what that means is we're gonna have a packer here and here. And on the inside, we're gonna have packers here and here. And we're creating a diagonal brace. We're not gonna cover that in this one, but we will cover it later on. So we're gonna get that installed and show you how we finish this all up. So even though we're not gonna cover this fully, I will give you the rundown of what toe and heeling is. We're even gonna show Chris because he's never seen it before. So on this piece of glass, it is now supporting the opener. The reason being, if we didn't have glass in here, the frame can just flop around. So we've created a diagonal brace through the glass, sort of like what you see on a garden gate where you have the diagonals coming across. So we've got packers in this top right, top and to the right side. On the opening, we're at the top. And then it comes through an angle down to the bottom. And then we can adjust up and down by basically adding packers to here to lift this side up. Or if we pack here, we can push it down. So you just need to pick up where you put the packers. But that's how we do it. Phil, have you seen how clean these glasses are? Pan over a second and show how clean- The windows are really lovely. Yeah, well done, Chris. Not that one, these ones. Last job before we seal this is to foam around our windows. So here's our foam. We've got a gun with it. Don't use the can stuff. It's bloody messy. These are much better. We're actually showing Chris because he's never used one of these either. So all we're going to do is fill any voids. And you shouldn't really make too much of a mess with this because you've got all the control that you need. Right, so as we're going around, any bits like this, I know you want to touch it. Leave it alone. Let that fully, fully set, and it just comes straight off. So we're going to do around the rest. I'm now going to do the inside with the skills I learnt from Phil on the outside. Try and keep the can as upright as possible. It is quite difficult in there because the ceiling is quite low and it is going to get progressively more and more difficult as I go along and the ceiling meets the top of the can. And to finish your window off, guys, we've added a anthracite sealant all round to make our window perfectly watertight. Phil? And that is the end. But before we go, massive thanks to Emma, Jodie, and Chris from the Insulated Panel Store for letting us use this system for the very first time. And now it's going to be available to you guys at home. And also, it's a big shout out to Aluminium Trade Windows for supplying the window in this video. And just remember, guys, like, subscribe, and comment, and peace, and love you.