Turbo V6 Camaro Was One Mistake from Disaster | Budget Turbo Kit Diagnosis, Fix & HP Tuners Tune

So say you just had a turbo kit put on your car and the shop that did the work tells you it won't run right because the valves are floating at 7 psi and there's nothing else they can do and two weeks later they close their doors. So you find a specialty tuner a few states over and the first thing they ask is how it ever made 7 psi in the first place because your car's missing two parts the computer needs to even see boost. They sell you those parts they send you the base file and after the very first log they tell you something inside your engine is making it run lean and they're not going to touch it again and that's where this owner was when his Camaro showed up at the shop and by then he'd pretty much heard every reason it couldn't be done and honestly once I got my hands on it I found a couple of things that almost made me agree with them. If you're new here this is Fluid Motor Union we're a shop in Naperville Illinois and we've been building exhausts and fixing cars since 2008 and for a while we've been taking the odd builds nobody else wants and putting them on YouTube and that's how this owner found us. He's local and he'll tell you himself he probably should have brought it here from the start but we both know that we're not the cheapest game in town and there's nothing wrong with trying to get a deal until that deal comes back and bites you in the butt and if you're here because of the Alaska Charger this is gonna feel familiar because it's another base model car with boost on it this one's a 2021 Camaro with the 3.6 liter V6 and a Huron single turbo kit on it and for anybody already typing should have bought the V8 a 2021 Camaro 2LT started at around 27 and a half grand before you even added the V6 a 1SS with the 455 horsepower V8 started at 37 and a half and I get the argument that's not the car he bought and that's not the car that's sitting at my shop. I'm not here to knock anyone because I don't know everything that's happened to this car before it got here and I'm not gonna pretend I do. What I do know is it wasn't finished and what he wants is pretty simple a turbo car that runs like a turbo car he doesn't want it to go over 7 psi to get there and that number isn't one he picked out of the air either. By the end of this you're gonna see why 7 psi on this motor is the hard line and what it costs the engine when somebody decides it isn't and you're also gonna see how the difference between an experienced install and just getting the parts in the car came down to a $900 turbo that almost didn't make it in 1500 miles and why a lot of the time the more expensive option ends up being the best value than the one that saves you the most. If you like watching us pick up builds that somebody else started go ahead and hit subscribe because this one didn't go the way any of us planned and I'm curious about something so I want you to tell me in the comments how long do you wrench on something yourself before you call in help an hour a weekend or does it have to be on a flatbed first and I know it's a point of pride I mean it is for me it's how I got here I call people who know more than me all the time and I'm going to be doing it in this video. So when a car comes in and the owner has more or less given the reins over to us to take control and further finish the build we've got a lot of things going on that we have to verify the biggest difficulty that we're getting into is that from this point on we're more or less taking responsibility for the remainder of the build on something that I might not have recommended in the first place. Now speaking from professional experience usually the issue lies in mechanical aspects so that's why we did a full inspection first and foremost on this vehicle trying to see if this kit and we are unfamiliar with the kit looks as though it was installed correctly if there's anything that we could have done better if this looks like a setup for a v6 turbo kit and there was some thought that went into that because there are all sorts of ways to skin a cat and to make power on this car with forced induction what's a great way that this thing can be cost effective for the buyer and how can we split this up and what options can we give them that the user will be able to take on their own we're just trying to figure out and those things don't often line up with it being cost efficient but that is why it ends up being here because the people who usually are owning it are saying I've had enough I'll pay for whatever it takes to get right now nothing looks too crazy on this turbo kit we went over it underneath the car and really kind of looking at things looking at the kit doing a lot of research and that's one thing I probably don't get paid enough to do is the research I probably put about two to three hours reading up on forms checking on the sensors how they go into the car what this harness does the barometric pressure sensor harness checking various things on these vehicles to see if this thing indeed is installed right and set up correctly and honestly it looks like it is is that evil energy or something or like I don't know if this pressure sensor is supposed to be zip tied to the shroud it doesn't seem right to me but there's some sort of converter splitting off the math and that pressure sensor I don't know that just doesn't seem right but maybe that's the way they want you to do it I guess I got to kind of look at what it's doing but just the pre-look at the setup here I wouldn't say it's rough but I wouldn't say that this is like an obviously simple system a few things I love seeing in an exhaust two x-pipes hemels resonators you guys know I love those things nothing really wrong here though but I can only imagine how it's making this v6 sound this is all a lot of complexity for not a whole lot of result but really the first step is going to be figuring out what the kit is what it's supposed to be doing and then driving it and seeing if the way it's reacting is in accordance to what the kit says it should be doing which obviously it's not because it's here but we need to make sure that this thing's safe so we're just checking over to make sure that things not gonna catch on fire while we're driving it there's no obvious oil leaks nothing's too close nothing's about to melt or break and basically where I have to start with getting into the tune as first making sure I could read the file and once I could read the file I'm then going to do a log of that file and then I'm going to send that file to someone who knows more than me in this case it's David Barry at Heavy Duty Recovery Tuning who's going to be taking this job on and trying to get this right I don't know what that's going to be involved you've seen some of the other projects but he's who I called to get into this very delicate very time intensive stuff he's pretty good at it and you're gonna see why in this video but I'm going to send him the file and ask for his critique and say hey how close is this thing set up but right now I'm going to pull that file and I'm going to see if I can log it is really where we're going next and the way we're doing that HB Tuners VCM Suite and basically what we're doing is we're going to try to go in there with the MPVI device which is going to ping the ECU and just kind of see can we get in there can we read it what the file is on there and if everything can be read I'm going to send it out I'm going to do a log we're going to send it over and hopefully get some feedback on what this thing needs next all right so basically this thing read what I'm going to do now and it looks like the file is intact I have not bought the credits yet what I want to do is do a log so he gets an idea of how far this thing's off as he's reviewing the file for the first time and trying to just kind of see like what did they tune you know what does he expect to see in a turbo file versus what he's seeing because then I'll have a pretty good idea of how much work's going to be involved so I'm trying to cut out as much time as I can for him by giving him as much information but again my guess isn't going to be what he actually wants it's just more or less trying to save him time so we're going to do the log well I cannot believe a v6 exhaust sounds that bad you wouldn't think so going through that turbo but there's just a lot of stuff not landing up there so basically we've got sort of an issue and I talked about it before about taking responsibility for a tune now I don't know how long this thing has been running this way the check engine light came in on it had all sorts of different fault codes in here running too lean running too rich mixture faults misfire faults plugs looked okay and in reality there's all sorts of things we could do to further ensure this engine isn't hurt by what was going on but we could just find nothing and then we'd spend time like in order to do a leak down and compression test we're probably talking about roughly three hours of diagnostics of checking pulling doing everything when all said and done which might confirm a perfectly good working engine and we'd still have to go forward to tune but that doesn't tell us if at the lower end it's fine now you don't know how long this thing's been driven how much damage has been done if any I will say though it's running pretty good so I have a feeling that hopefully this thing wasn't too aggressive and it just needs to be refined I don't want to get into too much boost here I kind of want to lightly drive it around in lower load levels I'm just cruising right now and looking at what I see for short-term and long-term air fuel mixtures to make sure we're not going lean and then kind of the knock events at cruise that'll tell me you know is this thing real goofy and then I'll probably tip it a little bit whoa a little too responsive kind of want to keep it there and honestly no weird chugging no weird fuel distribution events that made this thing feel choppy or sluggish or non-responsive so that's probably a pretty good sign there's probably some sort of semblance of a a tune that works on here whether it's right or not it's hard to tell it is doing some weird stuff though but we've got to find out this is the mid-range I've seen about that looks like two psi roughly light throttle nothing weird again no knock events no pulling timing timing is really conservative and decide where to go from there so I need to take a minute and give you guys an idea of what this engine actually is so it makes sense to everybody why they've got a different opinion on how much boost that it can actually take but before I do that you guys know I'm not an engineer I'm a mechanic who gets way too interested in how things work and for years I had all this useless knowledge and nowhere to put it so now I make videos and when the talking starts to get a little dry I make a slide I spend time on them but once the slide gets the point across to me I'm gonna assume you're smart enough to know that I'm also not a graphic artist so if the information is right and the drawing's a little off you get that I did my best or you can leave a pretentious comment about it and help the algorithm either way it works for me this is GM's 3.6 liter V6 the LGX it came out in 2016 and ended up in a ton of stuff the Camaro the Blazer the Arcadia and a bunch of Cadillacs it's a 60 degree V6 dual overhead cam direct injection and the Camaro makes 335 horsepower at 6800 rpm 284 foot-pounds of torque and 11.5 to 1 compression which is a lot for something if you want to put boost on it and it's got active fuel management so at light load it actually shuts off two cylinders to save fuel GM actually built a turbo version of this engine family the LF4 and the ATS-V and later the CT4V Blackwing which I think is pretty telling from the factory it ran up to 18 psi it made 455 horsepower but to get there GM dropped the compression to 10.2 to 1 put titanium connecting rods in it and used sodium filled exhaust valves and changed the pistons so when the people who designed the engine wanted to put boost on it they changed the parts to make sure it could take the beating and this Camaro has none of those changes the valve springs are what everyone argues about but for good reason a valve springs job is to close the valve and keep it from following the cam and when it can't keep up usually at high rpm the valve floats if it doesn't close on time and you lose the power you misfire or worse when you boost there's pressure on the intake and with the turbo there's pressure on the exhaust manifold too both pushing on the backs of those valves so the spring's got more to fight Huron Speed who makes this kit says keep it at six to seven psi and above that you need fuel and valve spring upgrades at a minimum they make the kit so I'm going to take their word on it fuel is the other wall on direct injection there's a high pressure pump driven off the engine feeding the injectors and David Math says that the stock pump and injectors should run out somewhere between 450 to 500 as far as what people say these engines hold you'll find all sorts of numbers online the ones I can actually point to are from Tracy Lewis Performance who sell superchargers for these and they say that their supercharged LGX Cadillacs make around 350 to 370 at the wheels on a stock engine at the first stage so what does that mean for this Camaro the first shop says it was floating valves at 7 psi Huron says 7 psi is where the stock spring stops so the owner wants a turbo car that runs right without going over 7 so everything we do from here is about making it right inside that number not about finding how much more it'll take all right so what I got to do now is I need to send this over to David and what I'm going to do is use his website HDR Performance Heavy Duty Roadside.com under his tuning section I'm going to go to Chevy Tuning and what that's going to do is I'm going to pay that price and then I'm going to send a scan file using HB Tuners so that's what I'm going to do now I'm going to get this all uploaded he's going to take a look at it once he sees what's going on he'll probably send me a revision or tell me that he doesn't want any part of this we're going to find out and from there we'll know what to do where to go from there but once I have an idea on it then I'm going to get with the customer and we're going to see is this something that they're willing to commit and understand that this might not have a set price in order to finish because even if we get this tune right there still could be mechanical things that are needed above and beyond we don't know until we start doing the work because again we didn't develop this kit we're going to find that out now so in order for me to make sure this video makes sense to you guys I need to make sure you guys know how the computer figures how much fuel to give the engine it has to know how much air is going in first and there's two ways that it actually does that the first way is the mass airflow sensor or the math it sits in the intake it measures the air going past it in grams per second the second way is called speed density where the computer doesn't measure the air at all it calculates it and looks at manifold pressure air temperature and rpm and then checks a table called ve volumetric efficiency which is basically the computer's best guess of how well the engine breathes at every point gm uses both and they're supposed to agree with each other now here's where this camaro gets weird on these cars the computer doesn't just look at manifold pressure it compares the manifold pressure to the barometric pressure the pressure on the outside and it fuels off that comparison the fueling strategy is literally called pressure ratio and the barometric sensor from the factory isn't itself somewhere it's actually built into the math housing and in a stock car that's fine because the math lives after the air box on the intake side of the throttle so nothing around it ever gets pressurized but on this kit the math got moved to the charge pipe after the turbo that setup's commonly called a where if it was before the turbo it'd be called a draw through now both of them can measure the same mass of air but on a blow through every time the turbo makes boost the sensor that's supposed to be reading the outside air is reading boost and set and as far as the computer's concerned the outside air pressure just went up right alongside the manifold pressure the ratio stays right around one and the engine never looks at boost and that's what the barrel breakout harness fixes it pulls the barometric sensor out of the math and puts it somewhere it can actually read the outside again the other half of this is the map sensor the factory one was built for an engine that was never supposed to see boost so it runs out of the range right around atmospheric pressure the three bar map sensor can read way past that so the computer can actually see what the turbo's doing but putting those sensors on doesn't finish the job it just lets the computer see all the tables all the fuel all the timing the ve were built for an engine that tops out at atmosphere and now they have to be stretched to cover the boost and that's what david meant when he said nothing in this file was scaled for boost and there's one more piece that people don't usually think about the transmission uses mass airflow calculations to figure out how much line pressure to put behind every shift so the math and the v tables don't agree this engine might run okay and the transmission still shifts like something's wrong and on this car they weren't even close so what does that mean for this camaro when it showed up here it already had the three bar map sensor and the barrel breakout on it so the computer could see the boost the problem is the file still didn't know what to do with it because the tables underneath it were never scaled for it now we did see lean faults math faults and throttle faults in the logs and that's probably what got the last tuner worried about something mechanical but all of those sensors had changed and finding the ve tables in the shape that they were in honestly made it more of a mystery not less i don't really know what they saw in their log or whose file this car was even running when it got here thing is we're not here to solve mysteries we're here to make sure that the car makes power safely and nothing we found was a mechanical reason to stop all right so david had a look at it and he's a little bit worried so we just got the file over from oj at fluid motor union for this v6 turbo camaro we're gonna take a gander at it and see what we need to do let's see first thing we're going to check is spark tables okay that looks rough and it's not scaled for boost once this thing's under full boost it's easily going to get past this cylinder air mass so under boost it's probably going to run in this zone at the peak of the table so we'll scale these this is a factory fuel table hasn't really been scaled so even the three bar we'll go to three bar see if it's been tuned for that no hasn't been tuned for that either he sent me over a file we're going to try it he had sent me over some new channels to be able to log some things set up the way he wants it set up so i downloaded it from his tuning portal the tuner delivery network service software here it was all inside of there and what i'm going to do is i'm going to put that on here now and we're going to basically see how this thing uploads which it's done key back off make sure it starts of course not now keep in mind what he sent me is his base file so i'm expecting it to be a little bit off because a lot of times he's not just changing the map he might be using certain sections from it he might be using it as a guide but a lot of times he's changed so much that this really needs a lot of attention paid to all right so today we're doing a little bit of testing and unfortunately we've got rain out there yeah i saw the weather because i was looking intake air temps and i was like other in the 60s what's the weather like there today now what i have so far in the car is i have a base file of how david thinks the car should run looking at comparisons to the old file now there's a lot of things that he didn't like in there such as the ve tables not being set up and a very weird math curve in his opinion now it's raining out so i can't really get into wide open throttle nor would i want to with an early stage file on here but i've probably spent more time driving this car than i have at all and there's some things i'm noticing that i think are going to be an issue as i'm getting into the logging of this and i wanted to take another look because initially we just kind of looked at the turbo setup and if everything looked okay but now that i've felt a few things with the driving of the car i kind of want to know exactly what's going on so i'm going to put it back up on the lift and take a look at a few things but one of it is i hear this weird whirring noise and i'm not 100 sure what it is it's almost like there's a pump on or something's grinding and i'm really not sure what could be making that and i'm not sure you guys can pick it up now it could just be a heat shield rattle you can kind of hear it there i'm hoping it's pulley related i'm going to grab the stethoscope so i'm not sure why that thing's so loud this is a oilless turbo the bearing is a bearing that you put grease into now we didn't install this kit so i don't know the previous condition and being that everything looks so new it's not something that i would have thought that we would have had to have checked the bearing play on this although looking back we're still early in this check up and build but looking back it's as simple as taking off this clamp here and checking it the other thing i'm noticing is the exhaust underneath is touching quite a bit in a lot of places now both of these items could be contributing to performance but i can't tune a car reliably if i have false knock signals coming from the exhaust banging around on the chassis and the body or if this turbo is screaming because something's wrong in the bearing so we're going to check this out we're going to check out the exhaust real quick and try to see what we need to continue in order to make sure this car is right but that's not a great sign so preliminary inspection we've got a little bit more play than i'd expect to see however i don't see any bearing damage into the housing where it's scraping yet i don't know what it looks like on the inside and i don't know what it looks like on the turbine i also don't know how pumped up this bearing actually is with grease if it was pre-service before they put it on here it might be something i do to try to see if we can get this however my thoughts would be the damage would be already done if it sounds like this but it can be something that we try to pump up and see if we can continue the good news is is that it doesn't look too bad yet but it's definitely making noise they shouldn't be making noise chances are this could potentially stop the project in its tracks right now if when i go to oil this turbo up it doesn't immediately move that space because it isn't that bad it is more play than you'd expect to see but i have no way of knowing if there's any oil inside of that bearing housing however if there isn't that'd be a really bad sign so we're going to start with that first and then we're going to look at some of the other things going on all right so we got the grease zerk exposed and what we're going to do is basically push some grease into there now typically the exchange procedure calls for you to pump seven or eight pumps of grease into there basically every time now the grease is a specialty grease and it's kind of hard to get from comp turbo or vs racing luckily we're a performance shop we have enough on here but it's hard to get into our grease guns it's a big mess it's always a pain in the butt but basically we're just going to pump it in there and you might be thinking what if it spills over inside of the bearing well that's the procedure it'll actually push the old grease out which it hasn't been pushed out into the turbine housing and they say it should burn off i don't know how i feel about that i don't know how i feel about oilless turbos in general but basically we're going to do the seven or eight pumps in there just trying to see if we can get rid of some of this play wow it is quiet i completely quieted this thing down gone wild maybe we caught this just in time to save this turbo maybe it wasn't prepped correctly maybe it just pushed a little bit too much grease out i don't see anything else going on here we're going to keep our fingers crossed we're to go forward with the inspection but this is a really good sign someone check this because this could have been catastrophic metal could have gone into the intake tubing could have made its way up to the engine on both sides potentially this could have been a really bad situation it's not right now so i've got a few issues that i need your help on and it's not changing all this clamping even though i really really want to i need to tune this thing and i don't think any of this is right and i'd like to give him some sort of quote maybe for not having two x-pipes two bad x-pipes in this center here but that's either here or there what i need this thing to do is not touch here i i worry that it's touching on the uh the motor mount but here's the thing i think it might just be a matter of twisting this guy because it's on a v-band right here and here yeah so i'm hoping maybe if we can rotate it a little to the right it'll just give us enough clearance in that area without having to redo any of the piping but the thing that i would want you to redo is i'd like to get some rear o2 sensors in this thing here and here i'll have to get you the actual sensors i don't want to put them in this heat shielding obviously which means you might have to extend them but uh i think here and here on the inside just to make this thing a little bit less of a pain in the ass when i tune but uh more or less the goal is i just need this thing to not be touching and to give me less problems and get that o2 sensor up front so if you can do those things for me i think i have a pretty good chance of at least getting this thing close enough where we can make decisions further on because what i worried about was possibly having engine issues or other things like that that turbo scared the crap out of me but i think that might be okay so if we get this thing more or less set a base where it is a turbo car and then he can make performance decisions above and beyond that without having to be forced any one way right now even though there's some less than ideal stuff here just so we get some but i'm really just looking for band-aids until i know this car is going to run okay i gotcha all right all right so cody's got this thing all shored up feels much better just sitting here starting from idle david gave me a file and this is his first crack at trying to equalize the math tables and the ve table so i'm gonna go take it for a drive it did start up a little bit funky but we're gonna see how it runs and then just start the street tuning now that we have everything mechanically feeling better don't be afraid to get on it a little bit because the fuel up top the way i have it designed and set up in the fall it's going to be rich so if anything it'll fall in his face it won't hurt anything though we only had two knock events during that whole run and that was kind of getting into the bigger throttle zones which the way i have this thing tuned is probably going to be a little rich up there anyways and i know i'm going to dial it back so everything i tune we always start rich and we dial it back just for safety margins and even then that's like one degree and that could be a variable of just noise too there could be something rattling causing that event after another drive in the rain david saw something in the log that didn't make any sense the math was showing about half the air it should have been okay i was just curious because like i said the um the master flow targets like weighted grams per second is roughly half of what the ve is wanting okay so we're a few files into this now and so far the file that we left on he had doubled the airflow to match but that made it run like crap because the master flow is in control on these transmissions of like shift timings and pressures so you don't want it to be that far off so he forced the car into speed density and then failed the math on purpose so that way he could check to see if the ve side was feeling the way he told it and also to see how much the engine was actually moving on the air side once he had that where he wanted it he went back in and looked at the exact math channel instead of the generic one and it had been reading right the whole time so apparently a bug in the software was cutting the number in half and i think that's a pretty good reason to check your tools before you blame the car because one law can tell you a whole different story than what's actually going on all right so i'm putting it back on the lift we've driven it and the closer this thing gets the wilder the swings are on bank to bank fueling so i'm wondering if maybe when we were underneath there messing with stuff we left a gap in something i'm seeing big swings when we let off the throttle and in transition areas that kind of make me wonder if we've got some sort of air going on i don't remember really paying attention to where the o2 sensors are so i want to take a look at that real quick and just try to see if something's going on that maybe i missed oh boy ow so this is an embarrassing moment because it's something so obvious when i look at it kind of makes me wonder how i missed it the manifolds was always kind of weird on this but i never really paid attention to where the o2 sensor sat and looking at the placement of the o2 sensors there's no way this setup would ever work oh man we got the passenger side bank coming down here you have the o2 sensor now this is the pre-catalyst this is the one your fuel trimming's done on your closed loop open loop this is where most of that gets done on the passenger side but look what happens as we're crossing over to the turbo we go right past bank two essentially it's reading the same bank with no way to get a reading on that sensor up there as oj mentioned we're a a long-term fuel percentage and bank two variants compared to bank one this is because the bank two sensor is the closest one in the loop and the bank one sensor is also getting readings off of bank two which is further down in the loop also depending on how those o2 sensors are angled it may not even be getting proper flow over it in the first place to get a good accurate reading but as you can see under load it's not making big changes at all everything's looking good that's kind of normal with the short terms but it's only when we're letting out is when we're seeing that larger variance see 23 throttle and it's just pushing a ton of fuel to bank two is further downstream so it's getting a fuel delay which will happen and that's what we're seeing here because the bank one sensor is further down in the stream you're seeing a delayed reaction and fuel response while the up the bank two sensor which is the closest one to the manifold is seeing a quicker response so we can't really trust any of the data from bank one whatsoever and bank two is it's kind of hesitant to or it's hard to trust because we don't know if the sensor is working correctly i don't know how we missed at the beginning this should have a red flag i'm a little embarrassed but um we need to figure out a solution for this i'm going to have to talk to the customer and let him know that the design of this kit is never going to lend itself we've got options tuning an open loop it's just stuff i don't really want to do we're going to discuss it with the customer i've got a few ideas but this is not going to work the way this kit comes all right so we identified what's wrong and you're probably thinking why would anyone build the car this way and honestly i have that same question too here's the thing this thing surprisingly spools up pretty quickly and i think it's the diameter of that piping and how it's routed and how it goes it ends up making the turbo probably more responsive than it should be for the size it is it is a 0.81 ar ratio on the turbine side so that has something to do with it but at the same time the way that this thing's routed is probably what's making it work now the problem being though is that that sensor is never going to work and because of the way this is set up there's no way to ever get this thing where you have individual bank to bank control for the fuel which means no closed loop and open loop would be the only way to go about running this thing which is probably the plan they probably just say hey run this thing in open loop or they just have this thing running the way it was and they trim it back and you know let things be now we could do that we could go forward i wasn't really having any driving issues it's just i was noticing the fuel trims were getting a little funky but what do we do about this we could redesign the manifolds and that's honestly the proper way to go about it we should redesign this manifold so that way the merge comes before the turbo the both banks are separated that would be the 100 ideal way but that would require us basically reinventing the wheel and more or less making our own turbo kit with manifolds we're not going to do that we're going to exchange a little bit of the sensitivity and the response rate that having the sensors close to the ports of the banks on each side by moving them into the downpipe because this downpipe lends itself to be removed pretty easily now if i get those sensors basically right next to each other and we extend the wiring harnesses we can get something that isn't a hundred percent ideal but it's going to see a lot of the trim mixtures and things although everything is joined it's not going to have bank to bank control it'll be enough that we still have a margin of safety like oj said he's going to reroute those o2 sensors closer to the downpipe after the turbo so we're not seeing any fuel anomalies and ideally they'll be next to each other at the same distance downstream of the downpipe from the turbo as well that's going to give us the most accurate data and there's not going to be any variance so you're not going to have to worry about oh you know 102 sensor is further downstream so it's getting a fuel delay but the biggest letdown about all that is that this means this is another video because we got to get cody to fabricate that it has to come back out and then we still got all that tuning in the dyno afterwards but sometimes that's just the way things work out there's a saying that every project gets paid for with time or money and honestly i've never seen it lose this car is a pretty good example of it he saved money on the install and then on the tune and then on the next tune and every time he probably felt like it was the smart move but added up the install a shop tune that ended up with a closed door parts a bass file from a tuner a few states away a turbo that was screaming for grease an exhaust banging on the chassis and now a downpipe that has to be rebuilt because the sensors were never going to let anybody tune it right the cheap way ended up being the long way and the long way almost always costs more and i don't think that makes anybody dumb what you see online is the finished builds and the dyno sheets and once in a while a full blown disaster if there's enough drama to make it worth watching what you almost never see is the where the parts are on the car kind of runs the owner's sitting there not sure if it's him or the kid or the place that put it on and that's way more common than either of the other two and that's a rough spot to be in because you hired somebody for the stuff and you don't know so how are you supposed to tell if they're doing it right you want to be fair and give them a chance to fix it and i respect that but every one of those changes happens on your engine and i walked right past that sensor too i looked this car over i did the research i said it looked installed right and it took a few files and some weird fuel swings before i saw it the difference is is that when something doesn't make sense david and i checked our tools and then checked the car again instead of just walking away from it that's what the more expensive option is usually paying for the people who keep looking when it gets weird so if you're thinking about a kit like this figure out who's going to finish it before you buy it ask what the tune is going to need before the parts go on and plan for when it goes wrong because that's usually the plan you end up using so here's where it leaves us the last thing i wanted was another boosted v6 being a multi-part video but that's the reality of what this is going to need to get done that means the downpipe is getting rebuilt with both sensors where they will work best then david can actually finish the file and then it goes on the dyno at six to seven psi where it was supposed to live at in valve springs mechanically also it's limited mechanically because those springs can't hold back the pressure if we had those upgrades i would love to try to turn this thing up to 10 15 pounds of boost and see what the fuel how much reserve is left in the high injection pump so we can actually turn the car and work because the injectors are not the problem the injectors have plenty of room to grow but we still don't know if that turbo got caught in time and we still haven't put any real load on an engine the owner decided not to test so the next part is where we're going to find out if this was all worth it but now i'm curious and be honest would you have caught that sensor the first time yes or no in the comments and no lying now if you want to see how this one ends subscribe so you catch the next part but stay loud stay curious and we'll see you in the next one