In this video I discuss how I make wings in sculpture. The armature is simple and makes sculpting a wing easy. I show how I create feather textures through a simple technique. And removing the wing is easy and helps get those finer details. It is my goal to bring you content that is not widely available so please subscribe to make sure you get all the tips and techniques. Thanks for watching. As always, I’ve put a lot of information into these videos and you’ll get out of it what you put into it.
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BOOKS - technical
Edouard Lanteri – Modelling and Sculpting the Human Form
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Stephen Rogers Peck – Atlas of Human Anatomy for the Artist
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John H. Vanderpoel – The Human Figure
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George B. Bridgman – Bridgman’s Life Drawing
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BOOKS – self improvement
Neville – The Power of Awareness (also includes Awakened Imagination)
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Florence Scovel Shinn – The Writings of (includes biography)
The Game of Life & How to Play It / Your Word is Your Wand / The Power of the Spoken Word / The Secret Door to Success
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SCULPTING MATERIALS & SUPPLIES
CraftWrap - Plaster Cloth Gauze Bandage for Scenery, Crafts, Mask Art, Models, Molds, Keepsake Belly Cast - Each Roll 4 inch x 15 feet (Single Roll)
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1 Oz. Fiberglass Chopped Strand Mat - 3 Yards X 50" Wide for Hand Layup, Vacuum Bagging or Molding Composites with Epoxy, Polyester or Vinyl Ester Resins
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Carriage Bolts ¼” x 20 SS, U-Turn, INC. (50 count)
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Autobody Panel & Trim Removal Tools (for demolding/separating your mother mold)
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Steel Hex Bolt, Grade 5, Zinc Plated Finish, Hex Head, External Hex Drive, Meets ASME B18.2.1/SAE J429, 1-1/4" Length, Fully Threaded, 1/4"-20 UNC Threads, Imported (Pack of 100)
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60 Pack 1/4" Wing Nuts Zinc Plated Fasteners Parts 1/4"-20 Inches Butterfly Nut
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AES Industries 294-1 Replacement 2-1/2" x 1-5/8" Curved Surform Blade (6 Blades)
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Stanley Hand Tools 21-115 7-1/4 in. Surform Shaver
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JB Weld 8277 Waterweld
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Chavant NSP Medium – Sulfur FREE, 2lb Professional Clay (Green)
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Alja-Safe Life Casting Alginate 3lbs (by Smooth-On)
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Smooth-On Mold Max 30 (Trial Kit, pink color)
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Smooth-On Rebound 25 2lbs (Trial Kit, orange color)
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Smooth-On THI-VEX
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Krylon Acrylic Spray Crystal Clear 11oz.
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Premium Baltic Birch Plywood 6mm (1/4”) 12” x 24” by Wood-Ever
(I give Woodever two thumbs up for quality birch ply)
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Titebond Original Wood Glue, 16 oz.
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Dental Tools / Waxing Modelling Tools
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Sandpaper Variety Pack 24pcs, 12 grits: 120 – 3,000 grit
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STUDIO / HEAVY EQUIPMENT
DREMEL Drill (with ROTARY flex shaft & assortment of wheels) a very good deal
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Drill Press, WEN 4212 10” Variable Speed
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Scroll Saw, WEN 3921 16” 2-direction Variable Speed
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WEN 3960 2.8-Amp 9-Inch Benchtop Band Saw
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WEN 6502T 4.3-Amp 4 x 36 in. Belt and 6 in. Disc Sander with Cast Iron Base
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Bike Chain (for roto-caster)
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Music through YouTube Studio
Thank you for being you
#claymodel #modelingclay #modellingclay #claymodelling #claymodeling #modelingclaysculpture #Chavant #classicalsculpture #claytobronze #jonburnsfineart #studioartist #homestudio #newsculpture #mucha #muchaart
Okay guys so today let's pick up where we left off with this wing. I've shown that
for those of you that missed the last video this wing sits in there like so.
I showed in the last video how to get this armature set up and going.
But I'm gonna apply the clay today and it's not hot out so that's nice. So this clay is
just the the right texture for me for doing this. And stick around a little bit in the video I'll
show you the secret for moving quickly through this texturing process. Hopefully in this video
you'll get a really good idea and maybe I can get most of this wing done before this video ends.
And there's a secret that can expedite your efforts and I learned this from one of my mentors
and he doesn't really know how much he taught me but I was really paying attention as much as I
could. His name is Dan Chin. Very good sculptor, very excellent painter and he's a good man.
Anyway I learned a lot from him and I'll show you one of the things that I learned from him
so let's get going. So with this you know you can if the paper takes you can smear the clay on there
if not you know apply it on your armature wire here first. The thing about wings when you're
sculpting them is that they're going to be thin and I mean you want them to have a certain lightness
to them so that they look good. And then you also want to make them so that they're thick enough
that you can make a casting of it successfully. I normally don't do how to sculpt videos because
for me the process of sculpting is a lot of give and take. You know you put clay on you
take clay off and to me I kind of work out some of my ideas in clay and there's enough
videos out there on how to sculpt. Maybe I'll speed up this portion here. So this video
is going to be about how to sculpt wings and maybe I'll put a little picture up here
where wherever it's going to appear somewhere over there of my reference material
Byzantine art. I remember the Byzantine art from my art history classes and
such a distinct style the lines so zigzaggy and whatnot but they had a lot of cool concepts
as far as visually how to put things together. So all right I'm not going to bore you here.
I'm going to speed this up and throw some notes on the screen. If you guys haven't liked or
subscribed yet please do that and check out the description. I'll play some good music,
what I consider good music.
So here's what's up. I got the wing covered with clay. I'm going to have to reshape it
to the shape that I want and this is very soft and I may have to cut that off because
I don't want that touching it. Anyway so I noticed that the hole is opening up bigger
with the weight also. I have a piece of brass tubing here. I think that this is uh
you know it's obviously a little too large but once it's in there that should help.
So I'm just going to shove this in there so that'll give me a spot every time
to register and hopefully you know that will help stop it from digging into my sculpture.
Now with that said also I can see I can get away with adding a little more clay to the wing
and with these wings there's a a lot of bulk. If you ever look at an eagle's wing
of course you're going to be using photo references mostly. These are much stronger
right through here. What you know if you hunt duck or geese you'll know here also that this
region is thicker if you examine the animal. There we go. I think I am going to cut this off.
So over about 15 minutes of work that's not bad. This does have some thickness but it still doesn't
look terribly heavy. I mean it feels a little heavy in the hand but when we mold this the spout
is going to be here and we might run a uh tip it like this somewhat so that we're not
I mean we could put a vent here but we have to make sure that when we pour it in it
ends up you know that would never fill we have to you know the water table.
Anyway this is all going to fill in pretty nicely I think and I'm going to work out a couple other
details to kind of smooth this. So at this point we want to get this as smooth as possible
and try to tighten things up to make it and when I say smooth I mean your primary form
because these dips and hollows aren't doing you any favors at this point. So
okay so now that I've pretty much got this level-ish the way that I want it I've used
the rake tools to help kind of smooth that down on the front so let's just roll with that for a
So this is the secret tool you get a birch baltic birch ply this is a half inch
and it's just a scrap piece that's all it is. I suppose you could use any block of wood that has
a grain that's exposed so this can leave nice check textures and even sides where you don't
think that there's any real ridges. So this is not ply this is a solid piece of wood that I've
cut into a block and this one has the natural grains of the wood.
Okay so let me just try to explain this again. I took the time to build this up so that there is a
overall form here you know it's not flat it's arching that way and then this is built up
as the creature actual winged creatures do like ducks or hawks or whatever geese.
So on this side after I did the area that I wanted to divide the wings up into
I kind of made a pretend line I guess you could say where I wanted these to go. I'm using the
of my knife to just kind of smooth that to make a suggestion as to the vein and the feather.
But I started out with just this block of wood this is solid wood this is not ply
and there is a natural kind of the rings of the wood will begin to show here. So I just took
one side and I went down like this on the one side
and I tried to keep my point the same going all the way down where I start and then drag off
so I'm dragging and when it came to the other side of the feather I have a loop tool that I made
and this loop tool I just wrapped a piece of wire around a wire I'm not going for the realism
I'm going more for the effect. If it looks good and it homogenizes with the piece
I'm going to be fairly satisfied and happy. So after you do those lines I recommend taking
this solid block again and just gently knocking back those last lines that you do. I'm all about
layers and if you can get more layers going on you know you you start to hide your technique
if that's something that you're interested in doing. So you know when it comes to doing wings
I feel like the more uniform you are the more the wings aren't going to look good.
That's my personal aesthetic and you know nature always does it better. That's going to cast nicely
I think that's got enough thickness to it maybe like an eighth of an inch up here or moving into
like a quarter of an inch and this part up here closest to the body this is about three quarters
of an inch so it starts to move into a half inch three eighths quarter inch eighth of an inch
down here to about three sixteenths of an inch. So we've got the clay on the wings my
reference material has a wing that's styled like this and I know this is not a naturalistic type
wing. This stick is just so I know not to pass this line because it's going to go on the block
I don't want the wings to cross into this space and I also am using this as a stop to keep the
from moving any farther forward and I had to trim up the wing so I had it like a feather
coming off here and maybe here anyway I had to trim it up because this dial hand
there we go there we go so this it comes out here is going to stick out about an inch
and I need to make sure that the minute hand clears that as it spins
around so I just went ahead and clipped that wing off altered my design a little bit and
some of these recessed areas you might like to know this I was taking clay I put just a little
bit on there like I really like the folds here and I don't want to hide those so I but I did
need to fill some area in there so I was putting the clay you know on there as such and that
doesn't look half bad I'll leave that there and basically trying to get in there where my fingers
could not so that looks pretty good weather's going to be getting warm a little later so I
need to do this while it's still cool in my studio from the night air you can see here that I now
have the clay applied to the wing and I wasn't really happy with the way that the texture was
going on its own so I wanted to sculpt the form on there and it's a primary stages we have primary
secondary and tertiary and we well anyway I have this set up I put brass tube in her back to hold
this and I put this piece of clay here to keep the wing where I want it this is fine meaning where I
want it because it has to block the or stay free of the arbor hole the sting up against it so what
I did to create these spots or feathers here's a little example here so I would put down and
working from inside out because we're layering if you're curious about this so I just put down
a dot and then I smear it and then I smear where I'm going to put the next layer if you want to
kind of push that down a little bit that's the general idea and this is where you have to really
use your sculpting skills because you're going to find that there's a certain flow maybe you can
see that maybe you can't there's a certain flow that you can't just you know if you put this on
here and just you know take it this way you're going to have a different effect that line is
going to show up differently so I was trying to create a sweeping up motion to juxtapose there's
art school term for you against this direction so this one sweeps up this one sweeps down
and that creates balance in the piece and then from the front it still looks like it's going
up for the most part and then again this kind of leans over that way and these are just smaller
dots so again start at the bottom and move them on up you know start with the bottom dot smear
and then put the dot on top and smear and that's that so on these bottom feathers
so on these bottom feathers I drew where I wanted them to go and again this is based on the
Byzantine art style those drawings of angels or mosaics rather of angels so these feathers
aren't completely stylized they're not realistic but we want to allude to the natural
naturalist quality of them so this is solid block this is not ply and then the natural grain
it's going to create something that's a little more favorable I think and you'll have to
practice with it this is not something that comes a little naturally but with your style
and your handling much the way that you write your name it's going to be unique to you and now
up here it might be wise to not use a flat surface on something that has a curve I have a tool and
this by itself is again rudimentary basic in its essence here but this gives you more of a round
a round form it's much easier and tight and then when you have your such as it is lines
you can go over it with the block and you kind of knock down those high points
and it creates a different texture you can even gently press it with your finger
and again it's a personal preference how far you want to get into it some people you know
the realism is where it's at for them and they're going to try to match nature and you know if
that's your tribe so be it I'm going for effect and be mindful that as you do this you're going
to have to turn it over and eventually work on the back and maybe just come up a little
on the inside to kind of meet it and the see since I'm suggesting feathers at this point
if I stay on it too long what it's going to look like is messier and messier and you're
going to lose that effect of impression and start to create more of a like you're going
to look like someone who's attempting to create realism so anyway I'm only going to go so far
with that and then I'm going to stop I think overall as a sculptor the impression of the 3d
form itself is what matters the texture is so secondary but you know sometimes you you know
it's about that texture on a 3d form but for me I'm not going to lose sleep over this I'm only
going to go so far with it and be patient with yourself hope you guys enjoyed this if you like
this please like and subscribe I appreciate it make sure you check out the description below to
see if there's anything that you can use in your studio save you the trip I am an affiliate with
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can make a contribution or donation at paypal.com slash me slash John Burns Fine Art we give 10%
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of sculpting the figure and these things are really a lost craft so it's up to people like
us to share it to keep it alive thank you so much there's greatness inside you get out of your own
way when I say that it's a term of endearment stick around for the next video in the next video
I'm going to be talking about drapery and I'll show you how I approach doing folds
here's a little sneak preview right there and I can do a little promotion for one of the
books that I really really like and for those of you that watch my channel probably already
know what I'm talking about but I'll show you some tricks for drapery and some of the basics there
you're doing drapery and how to approach it okay guys signing out