EMO vs MMO break tests + stone knot, clove hitch and figure 8

All right everyone it's the moment we've all been waiting for it's fight night here in the canyon rope community we've got the emo the eight mule overhand versus the mmo the munter mule overhand on a carabiner and a block system and the results speak for itself here folks looks like uh the emo is going his home severely wounded the uh mmo is holding snug but let's see how crippled he is can we still release this system after for some reason we pulled this to breaking strength yep so uh he survived but he uh i wouldn't say it's going home in one piece we're gonna have to cut this guy out and take him out on a litter this is the pull test of the unlinked anchors down to a girth hitched sling that would be equalized in the direction of pull for a releasable single rope system so we got an mmo down there on this master carabiner looks like it broke in the mmo there so this is the overhand to start to untie this there's the mule so yes cinched it off definitely not going to release that guy anytime soon did it break in the munter yep now that you can see the first that's the first wrap this is kind of the mule but that's the the first munter take two full setup same test as last video it did not break in the same spot munter mule is still intact as is the rest of the anchor but the emo broke right at the point where the rope bends through the repel ring and pulls against the eight block so the emo and the mmo break about the same when pulled to failure this is a sterling c4 rope and it's a technor sheath and a polypropylene core it's abrasion resistant it's fairly lightweight super static which is the why it tears when it breaks rather than like a dynamic rope which is made out of nylon it just snaps with a lot more dramatic slow motion because it's got a lot more potential energy it's releasing but technor is a really great abrasion resistant material and 10 kilonewtons is super good enough when all you're doing is repelling on this stuff you definitely do not want to take lead falls on static ropes i hope you know that this is the 10th and final video of the canyon course we put together on so if you found yourself here and you haven't seen the rest of it go to the description it'll drop you right off on the website and you'll watch the whole thing in order how to tie any of these knots we're cover in the blog itself and how and where to use this stuff is literally the course now i like to just pull things against a figure eight because that's a pretty standard knot and to see if these emos or mmos are breaking higher or lower than that so we pulled it with a figure eight on both ends and we got in the 10 kilonewton range and then we pulled it again and got in the 11 kilonewton range so the rest of this video is us testing knot blocks like stone blocks and clove hitches and just eights jammed up against the ring to see if one you can retrieve your rope and two if they slip or what they break at or if clove hitches even cinch up on stiff ropes because the c4 is technically kind of a stiff rope what's great about making these videos more of a standalone youtube thing even though they're part of a cohesive course is the more likely to be found on youtube more people will benefit from this that is why we like keeping it free and so you can go through the whole course for free i don't even ask you for your email if you do give me your email on our website we can inform you when we've got more videos coming out youtube doesn't always tell you but free content is not free to make and all we need is about one percent of the people who watch this channel to help support us with one dollar per episode on patreon.com or buy gear from extremegear.org 10 supports this channel and they do sell canyon gear and they do ship internationally we also have on hownottoswag.com we have a cool canyon design we just put out so if you benefited from this course or this channel as a whole i really appreciate you guys supporting us alpine butterfly with carabiner yes block on ring well it looks like it didn't pull through the ring because it had the carabiner let's run it again without the carabiner and see if the knot will pull through what is a very standard repel size ring alpine butterfly knot block no carabiner this time oh it might do it do it it did pull through the standard repel ring but i'm going to see if i can still get it untied because that's kind of the point with these systems when we use them is reusing it because i would have this tied in the middle of the rope and as you can see classic alpine butterfly still easy to untie bam so looking at the area where the knot was tied i would say that would pass inspection except for that little bit but uh yeah the point was the failure happened by the knot pulling through the ring we don't want that this is a figure eight knot block if i didn't know what it was i'd say i wouldn't would you be able to identify what knot this was i'd have to look at it pretty closely um so that pulled until it came through the ring so yep i'd say still in pretty good shape definitely in a usable but uh not usable by me because i just fell to my death because i pulled through the ring figure eight and then we've got the beaner clipped back to this rope so theoretically this should not come through we're just taking it four kilonewtons that's uh just kind of hanging out loose there the knots doing all the work at this point and release it and see how good brent is at untying knots how are you bud so that would be retrievable i would get this back yeah pull this down and then this also is i think definitely easier because it's a brand new rope they spring a little bit of ease of untying in this rope i i think with a dynamic rope where it stretches a lot you might have a lot harder time untying it if it had been to that force uh cool totally retrievable after four kilonewtons on this rope so let's run it again and see how much it can actually hold oddly enough there's still some space at the end of the eight there and this is now gonna be really easy to untie because there's not a lot of the rope beaner still fine oh yeah great this didn't even make contact with the ring i know yep so this is a figure eight with a carabiner in there brent calls it a crush carabiner um the idea is that this if this skinny 8.5 dynamic rope really cinches down we'll be able to pull the carabiner out see that goes up way slower it's crazy it's oh it's getting good do you think if it wasn't for that carabiner that would go through that ring i think it would have yeah oh a hundred percent so that is so jammed up in there it's like would you be able to retrieve that because that's kind of the point is i want to retrieve my rope by pulling on the other end and i would say probably that was stuck the carabiner came out now notice this is a key nose not a hook nose that would have been a lot more difficult to get out it was really determined guy over here it was deformed but bam i was able to get an untied without beating it on a rock what other applications would that be good for uh using a crushed carabiner yeah um anytime i think you expect to have a high load on a rope and you want to untie that knot easily is just putting that carabiner in there so when it cinches up um you can untie that knot and reuse your rope again i've used it in like top rope anchors oh yeah that's a good point yeah so like at the master point of the top rope anchor awesome brent uh that looked a little bit anticlimactic to me unless you're on the other end of the rope that's what we call the last ride of your life right there it's interesting to see how different a dynamic versus a static rope performs and stuff like this um i think it is valuable to look and know this because there are a lot of the climbing community is coming over into the canning world and whatnot and they'll see canning techniques but they didn't buy a new rope so i think there is some value in in running a test like this to but it is uh really easy to untie surprisingly enough um there's the end of it unfortunately the guy that was on the other end isn't gonna be using it so oh it broke on your your eight block over there all right i'm gonna need some tools i'll come back to this so we're trying a clove hitch again tied slightly loose but the significant difference is here is this is a dyneema sheath rope which is the slipperiest material that uh we make ropes out of stopping at four kilonewtons you can see it actually cinched up and seems to be holding fairly well it's uh potentially the highest one of the higher loads i'd expect to see in the field so yep broke right at the knot well that's interesting almost looks like it generated enough heat to like start melting the dyneema so so busy inspecting the rope and curious to see what happened with that uh doing that last test that uh i didn't bother taking a close look at the carabiner until i went to rig up the next one and i noticed that there was this problem with the gate um it opened just fine and i when i got the rope off but now it won't close and if you take a closer look rigging the carabiner in that way pulling against the repel ring it deformed it just enough that the gate won't close so now i am down one more carabiner for science so uh we're at four kilonewtons you want to go ahead and back that off bobby and i'm gonna see what it's like to undo that so i think four is a pretty good average what you should expect to see a little deformation in the rope already against the ring but uh it's fairly easy to move yep gonna be able to get that out no problem the worst case scenario i got a slippery rope a kind of loosely tied knot it is it is tied and clipped correctly with a really short tail and now let's see what happens fairly easy to do far easier than a clove hitch it's fairly easy to put in as well it's usually hard to set a clove hitch as a as a carabiner block system so i i intentionally left it kind of kind of loose as if somebody you know really wasn't being diligent and seeing if that's going to hold on this side i just did the same thing with that stone stone hitch i've been playing around with this carabiner so i'm just gonna pull these two against each other and uh we're gonna see what happens so this is stone versus clove hit clove hitch did eventually cinch up there was a quite a bit of movement in it and it took a while uh for this to cinch and uh this one didn't move at all i left the short tail here and it really stayed there um the other thing that i'm looking at is it eventually did set up with a stiff rope but this is like not going to get this out so yes i'm not going to reach 10 kilonewtons in the field but uh this is just a way of looking at yep that completely cinched and even that this completely cinched up this is extremely easy to release so this held the same amount of force that this did until the rope broke so it's not about how much force it holds but it's like this is i think just as easy to rig and it's definitely easier to unrig but that was very very easy very easy to get out and it was very a very effective block to hold enough force to do that on the other end where'd this rope come from ryan where'd you get this man this is actually an old caving rope uh pretty old they cleaned it before they gave it to me but yeah it's just it's it's pretty damn stiff so i i'm surprised it's cinched up at all yeah me too and what number uh this is this first one this is a head-to-head no no no what number did it break at force oh 10.8 10 10 so you get one kilonewton per millimeter science yeah