Fractal Design Meshify C Mini Build - ASRock X399M Taichi / Threadripper 1950X

Hello everyone, this is Ryan from PCPartPicker, and welcome back to another build video. Today we're assembling an AMD X399 Threadripper content creator PC inside Fractal Design's Meshify C Mini Micro ATX mid-tower case. Fractal has taken the same design elements of their popular Meshify C Dark tempered glass case and shrunk it down by two PCIe slots worth of height to create a slightly shorter case. A big thanks to Fractal Design for providing the case for this build, as well as ASRock for providing the motherboard, and Cooler Master for providing the case fans we use in this build. Check the description below for a link to the complete part list. Let's get started. To use Threadripper in an M-ATX form factor, we'll be using ASRock's X399M Tai Chi motherboard. In the box, you'll find the manual, four SATA data cables, mounting screws for M.2 drives, two high-bandwidth SLI bridges, antennas for the onboard Wi-Fi, and the I-O shield. Our processor for this build is the 16-core, 32-thread AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X. Using the Torx wrench included with the processor, loosen the screws holding down the cover bracket on the TR4 socket, following the order labeled on the cover. The latch will spring open on its own. Release and lift the CPU holder and remove the protective cover. Gently slide the processor into the CPU holder and lower it back into place until it latches. Close the CPU socket cover and secure it with the Torx wrench in the order indicated on the cover, being sure not to over-tighten. The included wrench will slip once the screws are fully tightened. We're using 32GB of Corsair's Vengeance LPX DDR4 memory. Open the latches on all four DIMM slots, then aligning the notch on each DIMM with the post on the slot, firmly push the memory into place. For our primary storage, we're using ADATA's XPG-SX8000 M.2 SSD. Any of the X399M Taichi's three M.2 slots will work fine, so we selected a location we thought would maximize airflow across the drive. Take the drive and gently push it into the M.2 slot. Using a number one Phillips screwdriver, secure the drive into place using one of the mounting screws included with the motherboard. Next, let's take a quick look at the case and do a bit of deconstruction. The Meshify C-Mini includes the signature front mesh design of its big brother, along with its completely open internal layout for promoting great airflow. At the back of the case, you have a removable drive cage under the power supply shroud that can hold two 3.5-inch drives, as well as a removable mount for installing up to three 2.5-inch drives. You also get plenty of room and tied-out points for cable management. The case includes a full-length bottom filter for a 120mm fan and the power supply. Behind the case's front mesh filter, you'll find mounting for up to three 120mm fans, two 240mm fans, or up to a 280mm radiator. The top of the case can accommodate two fans or up to a 240mm radiator and includes a magnetic dust filter. We'll be using three Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120mm RGB fans to provide the primary airflow for the case. Since we'll be replacing the included fans, go ahead and remove the included front and rear case fans to give us a bit more room to work inside the case. Install the motherboard standoffs included in the case accessories box. A center alignment standoff is already pre-installed, so simply screw in the other seven needed for our MATX motherboard using the included standoff tool and a screwdriver. Install the rear I.O. shield by carefully pushing on each corner. You should hear it click when secure. Set the motherboard into place, carefully lining it up with the center alignment standoff and the rear I.O. shield. Secure the motherboard with the screws included in the case accessories box. Our power supply for this build is the 850W Seasonic Focus Plus Gold. We're also using carbon color cable extensions from CableMod to accentuate the design on the X399M Taichi motherboard. The extensions plug into the end of the power supply cables and offer a fully sleeved look to the build without having to get custom cables specific to our power supply. For our build, we'll connect the two 8-pin EPS cables, two PCIe cables, a SATA power cable for case fan lighting, and the motherboard 24-pin cable. Remove the power supply bracket from the back of the case. Attach the power supply mounting bracket using the provided screws. Slide the power supply into the case with the fan facing down to allow it to pull fresh air from the bottom of the case and exhaust it out the back. Connect the I.O. and power to the motherboard, starting with the HD audio cable for the front panel headphone and microphone ports, the case's front panel LEDs and switches, the USB 2.0 cable for our Cooler Master RGB hub, the front panel USB 3.0 ports, 24-pin power cable, the 8-pin EPS cable, and one of the 4-pin connectors from our second EPS cable. Since we don't need the 3.5-inch drive cage, we'll go ahead and remove it to make more room for our power supply cables. Remove the screws securing the drive cage to the bottom of the case. Remove the screws holding the front shroud cover in place. Lift out the cage and reinstall the shroud cover. Install the 120mm RGB Master Fans in the front and rear of the case. The RGB fan controller is magnetic, so you can stick it to the back of the case, then connect the USB 2.0, SATA power, and three RGB fan cables. Back on the motherboard, connect the three fans to the chassis fan headers 1, 2, and 3. To cool our Threadripper processor, we'll be using the Enermax LIC-TEC TR4-240 All-in-One Liquid CPU Cooler. Screw the CPU block mounting standoffs into the four holes around the TR4 socket. Apply the thermal paste included with the cooler. Here we're using the 5-point pattern application recommended by AMD. Remove the protective film from the bottom of the CPU block, then set it into place, aligning it with the standoffs. Secure the block into place using the screw caps. Before mounting the radiator, we need to connect the radiator fans to the CPU fan header, and the block to the CPU Opt water pump header. We've already attached our fans to the radiator in an exhaust configuration using the included long screws. Position the radiator into the top of the case, then secure it with the included shorter screws. For our video card, we're using EVGA's For The Win 3 Gaming ICX 1080 Ti. Before installing the card, we need to remove the first and second PCIe slot covers. Open the latch on the top X16 slot, removing the protective cover from the video card, then aligning it carefully into the slot, push it gently into place. Secure it with the screws we just removed from the slot covers. Connect the two PCIe 8-pin power cables. To help prevent sagging due to the weight of the graphics card, we've also added a support bracket provided by MNPC Tech. The support bumper can be adjusted to accommodate most GPU fans, and is installed by securing it to the third and fourth PCIe slots just below the GPU. With all of our components and cables installed, let's flip the switch on the power supply, and press the power button to give our system a quick test boot before managing the cables. And that's the screen we're looking for. Now we just have to clean up the cables and install the operating system. Thanks for joining us for another successful build video. If you enjoyed the build or learned something new, please give us a like or leave a comment down below. 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