DIY budget outdoor kitchen build part 4! Second to last episode! #Vevor #623

So welcome back, everybody. My name's Andrew, and you're watching the Kelly's Country Life. And if this is your first time visiting the channel, thanks so much for stopping by. We do projects like this all the time on the channel. So I'm excited that you're excited. The outdoor kitchen build has been taking off, getting way more views than our standard videos do. A lot of feedback, a lot of positive feedback. I really enjoy reading your comments, and I try to respond to just about all of them. People seem to really be enjoying that. This is the tool I'm using. This is why I'm doing what I'm doing. And let me preface all this by saying, I am not a professional. I am a DIY homeowner that built his own house, and that's learning how to build his own outdoor kitchen. It teaches me a lot of life's lessons and things I can carry forward in life, as well as saves me a ton of money. So before we jump into today's episode, we got a lot going on. I want to say a big thank you to Vivor. It's a company that's sponsoring this build. They have donated, where you see all these holes right here, they've donated stainless steel door sets and drawer sets, and a trash pullout as well. We're gonna be installing those in an upcoming episode. So I appreciate them donating that stuff right there. By the way, they're offering a pretty significant discount to anybody that watches this. Links are down in the description if you happen to be looking for some stainless stuff for your outdoor kitchen or barbecue area. All right, so here's what's on the agenda today. We're going to start by prepping these countertops. By the way, look behind me. I left off with the last episode, and I hadn't finished putting up all my tile backer board, or what's called Durock, in right here. It's just a cement backer board itself. So the area is completely done. What we're gonna do today, I've already started seam taping. So I'm taking some of this mesh tape right here and going over everywhere there is a joint or seam or where two pieces meet. So the theory behind this is you put the mesh tape down, and then I come behind that and trowel in some thinset. It's basically like a cement-like material. It bonds the two together. It makes it even more rigid, less likely for them to shift apart. Long story short, less issues down the road for your tile. All right, so I apologize. The loud fans are running again, and they're probably gonna run this entire build. August in Florida is hot. So again, anywhere two joints meet, just roll off some of this mesh seam tape right here. It's got a sticky adhesive backing. All right, there we go. Roll it out, cut it off, and then press it nice and smooth. And there's a similar mesh that's buried inside of all this material right here. You can see it sticking out on the edges. All right, I'll be the first to admit this is only my second time ever doing tile. So take what I'm doing with a grain of salt. I already know that I'm not gonna mix correctly because I'm just looking for a small amount in a bucket. Don't even really know how much. They're filling some corners, gaps, and I think I'm gonna skim over all of my screw holes. So I've got one of my bags of thinset here. I'm gonna go ahead and put a little water in the bottom of my bucket. That seems like the right thing to do. But according to the bag, it calls for a lot of water, a lot more than I was thinking. I'm guessing that looks good. And one thing the bag did say to do after mixing for several minutes like I just did, we're gonna let this sit up for just a few minutes and then mix again for one minute. Apparently that allows a reaction and all to take place. Then we're ready to go put it out. So here's the other area that's probably gonna make people cringe. A lot of people scoop this out and put it on with a big trowel. I personally feel like for working these corners, just gonna use a bigger putty knife to scoop it out, put it up here and smooth my corners. Plus I wanna work over all of these screw holes, get them nice and flush because I don't want that waterproofing membrane that I'm coming back with later to go down in that hole, have an air pocket. I just want a nice smooth surface so I know my waterproofing membrane is nice and sealed. All right, so I have all of the screw holes patched and I just went ahead and mudded all the gaps and seams. Just mudded over with that thin set right there. And anything on the very outside edge, I caulked. So what I'm trying to accomplish here is completely seal all this to the wood itself so I can put a waterproofing membrane over all of this. There's no gaps in the wood and there's just a nice sheet of this waterproofing membrane that goes down. So if water ever gets underneath the tile anywhere, it's going to a waterproof surface and then has to run somewhere to run off the edge and out to the ground. So horizontal, you definitely don't want water sitting anywhere. You eventually will get the rot. So when I think a lot of people think of a tile countertop, they think of kind of the old school six by six or subway tiles, grout lines everywhere. And what I really think of a tile countertop is the little cap tile edges. That kind of really makes countertop not look good to me and look dated. So I've done showed you, we're going with big 12 by 24 tiles so there'll be very little grout lines, at least a lot less than with a small tile. And tile is very DIY friendly and inexpensive. The tile is very cheap. Now where I have splurged and probably spent way too much money was on tile trim edge. This is what's going to give it a little more modern look. And I think take it from bland tile to looking pretty good. So one little, uh-oh, I guess on my part, I ordered a lot of this Sluder, it's called Rondek tile edge. This is kind of made just for doing tile stair treads or countertops. I ordered it online. The picture looked a lot more stainless. I was thinking, awesome, we're going to get this in and it's going to look like the stainless doors and drawer sets we have in. It's just going to give it a sharp look. Well, as you can see this stuff come in and it's way more gray than it is stainless. Not happy with it at all. So we're going to take care of it. We're actually going to sand this down and paint it since I'm stuck with all that I have now. But look at this. Now you can see where we're going. So this is going to cap the edge right here. The tile's going on the inside and I have been very meticulous on how I've measured and set all this up. So whenever I cap this side as well, the tile fits perfectly between both pieces. You have a tiny grout line. This is actually set up to do a grout line right on the edge of the tile. Got to paint these ugly things too. But as you can see, they snap right in this stuff to finish off your corner right there and take off another direction. I think this is going to be a heck of a look. I wish we could have got the stainless look, but the paint I have just went and found, we kind of like it. We think it's going to hold up pretty good too. So first things first, before you go painting any type of metal, got to sand it down. I got some 320 grit here. You can go even higher than that. I actually don't mind if I rough the surface up a little, although this is a relatively fine sandpaper because we're actually going to be putting a textured paint on this that I've used many times in the past and I love. So all these pieces are now sanded down and wiped clean with some rubbing alcohol. And this is what I'm going to paint them with. I went and found it's a little bit darker colored, but it's called hammered paint and primer in one. It's a Rust-Oleum one. It's also rated for metal. So that's important, but I have used this hammer finish paint before. I love the texture of it. And I find this stuff to be extremely durable. I'm probably guaranteeing that it's about to rain now that I'm painting this stuff. This is really knocking down the high spots great and quick too. All right, so now all I have to do is blow all these chunks out of here. Then I'm getting inside because we just had lightning drop really close by. I told y'all if I painted rain would show up, told you. So this is called a waterproofing membrane. You'll see it offered in Redguard. This is the Lowe's brand, lots of different brands and manufacturers out there, but it's a thick liquid that actually dries into almost like a rubberized membrane. So should water get past the tile, the grout, something? Yes, in theory, tile board doesn't necessarily rot, but believe it or not, this style right here and some others can absolutely, they can absorb moisture, especially if it's a really bad wet scenario and they can deteriorate. So I guess you could almost call that a rot. So the best thing you can do, put down this membrane right here. So if water makes it past the tile and grout, well, it hits this rubberized membrane and then it has to go whichever way gravity is pulling it and ultimately drains out. It doesn't continue to absorb and filter through, ultimately making it to the wood below and causing a problem. Now this cement board is quite porous and that's easy to see by the little holes. So I'm just trying to put enough on that those holes are completely sealed over. And again, it may take two coats to accomplish that. All right, so I was at my local home improvement store the other day and oh my goodness, did I struggle trying to find some pressure treated one by fours. And I couldn't find any that weren't bowed, twisted, split, huge knots. So I just gave up. And then I walked by the pile of, well, what they call one by four fern strips. It's a low quality wood. So I got to thinking, I was like, you know, I could probably work with this stuff because it's really nice and straight. They have tiny knots, but no big knots. So that'll paint up nice and easy. And I knew I could kind of work it down to what I wanted anyways, which is exactly what I was gonna do with the one by fours. So I'm gonna use these to cap all the corners of the countertops here, but these are a bit big. And typically you're gonna find a very rough edge on some of these with chunks missing and grooves and stuff like that. Plus when you butt, these have rounded over edges. So whenever you butt two together to come around a corner, you wind up with a big gap there that you have to fill with caulk or something else and it doesn't look good. So I want one edge cut completely off. I don't mind the other edge having a rounded over corner, but where two pieces are gonna butt and start going the opposite direction, I need flat surfaces. Those will fit together nice and tight. So now I have what's called a planer. If you're not familiar with that, it has a rotating drum with two knobs on it that will actually plane down the thickness of wood, give you a nice smooth surface, it cleans it up. Now that isn't really critical for an outside bar, but when you see saw marks all down it like this from the factory, the big old groove down the side, that's all saw blade marks. They don't look good. You got knots sticking up like that. They're really high. That doesn't look good when you paint over it. So two quick passes through this planer will actually plane it all down. And the funny thing is I've had this planer for a while. This planer is actually by Vivor as well, the same company that's sponsoring this build and donated the stainless steel drawers and door sets for us. So like I told y'all, Vivor literally offers about everything. All right, so I could probably run down these real quick with my orbital sander, and I think that I will, but look, completely changes the color of the wood. Nice and smooth now, no lines, no saw marks, and that's on both sides. Little bit of roughness here. I'm gonna hit with the orbital sander. And also, this took a little bit of thickness off, which I actually need because of the way that my tile edge is gonna come out. I'll have to show y'all that when we go to install it. Even though I don't expect this wood to get direct moisture constantly or anything like that, I'm gonna go ahead and coat this all the way around, all four sides, that way it's sealed in really well should I ever have any moisture problems. Okay, so I'm about to lay all my stuff out on the bench here and figure out my plumbing and cutoff valve situation for my gas. So coming out of the wall down here, I went ahead and had the gas company run that out whenever I built the house. I have a 3 1⁄4 inch stainless steel corrugated line coming down out of the wall, huge line. They literally told me it could provide a million BTUs out here, which is about 10 times as much as I'll ever need, but it's nice to have it, right? So before I forget, a good point worth mentioning to you. If you have a line run out of your house, because a lot of people are watching this and getting ideas for how to build their outdoor kitchen, but if you have a line coming off of a main tank that you get delivered to, like I do, way on the back corner of the house right there, you gotta keep in mind, coming out of that tank is high pressure. Then they put a regulator, so it's already regulated down and it's literally like, I think a PSI or less. I know it's definitely nowhere above two PSI, but it may be a half a PSI, something like that. So this is already a low pressure line coming out of the house. That's what feeds your stove inside, everything is designed to work off of low pressure. So you're gonna see that I've picked up a bunch of hoses here with no pressure regulator on it. Now, if I was putting a bunch of 20 pound cylinders underneath the cabinet, I would have to have that, you know, kind of dome looking pressure regulator. So keep that in mind. I also wanted to do independent cutoff valves to every cooktop and surface I have out here. So I have a five burner cooktop here, and if it ever develops a leak or a problem, I'd love to be able to go right underneath that cabinet, cut it off, not have to lose everything else out here. Cause occasionally you may have to snug a leak up or something just may happen. We're also gonna have the Blackstone over there. It'll have its own cutoff valve and it hasn't showed up in the mail yet. We'll catch it on the last episode. I am plumbing an actual adapter out the end over there, which looks like what your typical screw on. It's called a QCC1 adapter. Sell them on Amazon everywhere. And it's gonna come out the end of the bar over there. So what that means is I can literally pull my gas grill up here or anything else that's outside of the bar. And instead of having to fool with 20 pound cylinders, I can have a hose with that thread on connection that you typically thread right to a 20 pound cylinder. I can thread it up to the bar here and I'm running off my big tank out back. Now, the other thing, you can see I'm running hoses here. I bought some of the bigger hoses for higher flow. It's got a five sixteenths inside diameter. These are 20 foot hoses. The reason I did this is one, all this stuff right here, especially the pipe itself, is as high as I've ever seen at the store right now. Literally a five or six foot piece of pipe is like 30 some odd, 33, $35, just stupid expensive. The other issue is, at least my Lowe's and Home Depot, they only carry like six foot, eight foot, and a couple of one foots. Well, I've got odd links here to run inside the cabinet. So I would either have to make my own pipe or put a bunch of one footers together with a bunch of fittings. That's just not gonna work. You're gonna wind up with leaks and problems. So I didn't see a way that I could conveniently run hard pipe inside of here without making my own. And there's copper and all this other stuff you can get into, but it's so much easier to work with these hoses. They're relatively inexpensive on Amazon, and I can run wherever the heck I need to go. Now, some people are gonna ask, because I've already been asked, are you gonna put in what's called a barbecue timer out here, which would thread on the pipe coming out the wall, and then you would take off with all your hookups everywhere else. And it's a timer. Most of them are one hour. I have seen one that'll go up to three hours. You turn it on, it provides propane that long, then it cuts off. Some homeowner's insurances require that, some sort of cutoff. So there's no potential for a fire to start, and you have pressurized propane out here. The problem with those is every single one I looked up had 100,000 BTU maximum. So if we have all four burners going on our Blackstone, which we do all the time, they're 60,000 BTU. If we have two burners going on the cooktop, one of them's like 11 or 12,000 BTU. Another one's eight or, I think maybe it's 9,000. Well, you can see where we're already at right there. We're at 80,000. And if I pull my gas grill up down there and I'm using it as an oven or rock and rolling with it, I'm already over 100,000. So I decided to skip the timer for now, unless I can find a higher BTU one, but keep that in mind as you do this. I am gonna have multiple cutoff valves though, but it requires you to remember. So one important point to note, whenever you're putting together gas lines, use either thread tape or a liquid sealant like this that is designed for gases and natural gas, propane, whatever it is that you're running. Okay, let me show you what I've got going on here. So here is my gas line coming out of the house. It's got its own cutoff valve that the gas company put in. I've come off of there and put three independent cutoff valves. It's gonna go to my three different hookups out here. So I can kill it all with one valve or kill each device out here. And I left everything half inch just like they run it. So all of these adapters right here are half inch pipe threads on that side. And you can see the top is what's called a three eighths of an inch flare. So these are three eighths inch flare hoses. You can see it's concave on the inside. So that flare right there actually seals very well. It's perfectly machined to seal that concave piece. Now coming out the end of the bar down here, I'm gonna have a standard propane tank hookup so I can wheel anything I want up here and have a little short hose on it, hook right to this, be ready to go. I'll go ahead and let you know if you're uncomfortable with hooking up gas lines, or you're not gonna take the time to do a leak check, you need to call a certified plumber and have them come out here and do this step for you. Or if you have a gas company like we do, whether it's natural gas or propane, that's just what's delivered down here is the propane, you can call your gas company too. If you already have a tank at your house, they have certified installers that can come out and do hookups like this for you as well. All right, so here we are. We've made a ton of progress in this episode. I know it's running really long, but there were just a lot of things that I wanna include. And I keep getting feedback from a lot of y'all, literally a thousand plus comments here recently that y'all are enjoying the details that I'm offering here. So I'm gonna keep making these videos a little longer if there's stuff to include, because it sounds like a lot of y'all are getting ready to build your outdoor kitchen. So I do wanna say one more time, not a professional here, just a homeowner sharing his experience. You're gonna see some of the things here that may not work in your particular instance. Like for example, if I was building this where it was gonna be really exposed to weather, I would build this all completely different. We'd have much more weatherproof enclosures for the electrical. I'd probably use steel studs, all hardy board siding, some kind of cement siding, things like that. So adjust your build according to the weather conditions that you're gonna experience. Depending on where you're at, you may or may not have to pull permits and all kinds of stuff. It literally varies by county to by county, state to state. So you need to look into all that. But I don't mind sharing my experience so you can grab some thoughts, some design layouts and details, just know that this may not work for your particular circumstance. So I got some bad news. There was some parts that was supposed to arrive with my tile trim edge and I opened the box a little late. So there's my fault and my parts were not in there. Logged online, they've been backordered and I was never notified. So I've just had to struggle to find some more pieces to put up this tile trim edge. And I'm being told it's gonna be a minimum of a week before it can ship out to me. And then I can get to work on all the tile, all the fine details, installing everything. So long story short though, what that means is our final episode is probably gonna be a week and a half to two weeks out, but it is coming. As soon as those parts arrive, I'm gonna get into recording that episode for y'all. And it's gonna be a huge episode. It's gonna be another long one like this, maybe even longer because there is a lot to do to put all this together, to do the final details and touches to pull this all off. But the next episode is gonna be a good one. So bear with me, I will get that episode out to you. Thank you all for your positive feedback and comments. Thank you for viewing and watching this and sharing it. This series has kind of blown up for the channel, at least as small as our channel is. So we really do appreciate all the new people that's come along. So ask any questions that you have down in the comments, I'll answer them best I can. And I'll see y'all on the next episode to where this thing is gonna be hopefully wrapped up. Catch you on the next video.