Making Circular Saw Crosscut & Miter Jig The MAX CUT 2 _ Limited Tools Episode 003.

Hey, what's up guys, so I did give this tool a name I'm calling it the max cut tool and today I'm gonna show you guys how I built the max cut tool right here on DIY creators So stay tuned guys, and I'll show you step-by-step exactly how I built this I started by measuring out the dimension for the base in my case I use 32 inches by 25 now keep in mind you may want to make yours a bit bigger or a bit shorter It's really important to get the base as accurate and straight as possible Now clamp the saw guide down on both ends Use a circular saw to make your first cut if you don't have a way to make a straight cut then consider looking at the Way I built this jig a few weeks ago Line up the 2x2 on one end and clamp it down to the base and make sure it's flush on all ends To make this cut I use a speed square which I clamped in place which act as a guide The 2x2 is measured at 32 inches in length, which would go at the long side of the jig base Now clamp the 2x2 at the edge of the base then check to make sure everything is flush before continuing Next flick the entire piece over Pre-drill the holes for the screws along the base use a countersink bit to flush the screw heads on the side I plan to put the stop blocks. I measured 18 inches from the edge and made a reference mark There's no real calculation behind this point but I just wanted to make sure that I had a Reminder of where I wanted the blade to be if you recall I use the clamp to hold the blade guard back while I was Cutting let's just say I was overthinking a process during the build and you can eliminate the use of a clamp by just making the Base wide enough to catch the guard as you insert the saw in a track so at this point I'm going to cut the piece of plywood for the widest part of the saw base and Again, we'll need our speed square to help us as a straight edge to make this cut This piece need to be cut at 25 inch in length Which is the measurement from the front of the jig to the back of the jig? So now we're going to cut this strip for the small side on the saw base This piece also need to be cut at 25 inch in length Since this piece is so small it's much safer to use a handsaw to make this cut Now I need to cut one more piece Measuring at 1 inches and this would be used for the fence on the saw guide This also need to be cut at 25 inch in length and we need two piece one for each side of the fence At this point we should have the bottom base with the stop block guide Base one base to the left fence and the right fence Place the base and the fence on a flat surface then clamp the two together Since the design call for visible screws I'm going to measure one inch from both ends and make a mark and then between those two marks We're going to find the middle Once we find the middle we're going to measure from the middle to both ends And then we're going to find the middle of that spot on both sides Now pre-drill and use a countersink bit to flush mount the screws Now do the same thing for the second side of the base Now lift the saw blade to its maximum height and set the saw between the two guides Score up the track on the base and then measure from the outside Three times the back the center and the front of the guide You should have the same measurement at all three points now take that measurement and cut the back support for the tracks Now if you remember this line, I just wanted to get my saw blade in the area It does not have to be dead on Now I'm going to take that two by two piece of wood I had and place it beside the track and clamp it in place Use the framing square to make sure this is perfectly squared to the front of the rails There should be no visible gaps then clamp it in place Now pull the tracks towards the two by two as tight as possible and clamp it in place now check the square in all the way around the track and under it to make sure everything looks squared as Possible before continuing to the next step And once again check the square of the track to make sure it is square to the front rail of the base The base of the saw is squared with the blade on the circular saw and I did check to make sure that that was correct Now I get it. This part can seem very tedious But it's kind of worth it to put the time in now and try to get it right So you have less headaches later now to attach the back support of the track I just installed three screws along the back and flush mounted those as well and install a couple screws Now put the other side of the track on clamp it down and check to make sure that the saw move freely before screwing it in place Again the saw should move freely and there should be no wiggle or play within the saw track Now to make your first cut into the jig drop the blade just enough to score the top portion of the plywood Now I'm sure there's multiple ways to get this four to five piece in here and get it cut to the right angle I'm going to do it the easiest way I think it's possible and that's using a speed square What we need to make sure is that the edge that the speed square is clamped on to we need to make sure it's straight Not kinda but straight and your wood of choice also needs to be straight I use quarter inch bolts and quarter inch drill bit and I want the hole to be as snug as possible Now countersink the head of the screw so that it sits down flat within the track and doesn't interfere with the slide of the saw Now after flipping the jig over I realized that the holes that I pre-drill are Too big for me to use my frostner bit So I created a guide to help me control the bit as I'm drilling out the same hole Now because I'm using t-nuts I have to open up the hole even bigger and I don't want this drill bit to go all the way through because it would defeat the whole purpose of what I'm trying to do So I put a piece of tape on there to use it as a stop Now having the t-nuts in place and we should be ready to go Two of the bolts will be too long and it will exit out the backside of the jig if I don't remove a piece of the Bolt, so I just use a hacksaw to cut it down now just to check your work just take a piece of scrap wood and then cut it with the 45s and make sure that you're getting a complete 90 if you are then you did a good job And if not, just make the adjustment you need to move on Now the next thing to do is cut off this overhang from the backside of the jig So I think the rest of the video is self-explanatory all I'm building is just a stop block So if you have any question and definitely hit me up and I'll get back to you But stick around for the end of the video I will let you know a couple things you can do to upgrade your jig and I will see you there so I do have a couple upgrades that you can possibly add to your jig that can make it even better and that's one adding an Adhesive measuring tape onto the block and this would also speed up your workflow by just having that available if you're interested I'll have a link down in the description and the second upgrade is to make sure this piece of wood is a bit wider so That it catch the blade guard and you don't have to use a clamp like I used and the third upgrade I would suggest is probably replacing the t-nut with this threaded insert while using this I did notice that once you tighten up the knob the t-nut actually comes out But when you loosen it back up it actually go back in so if it's a big pet peeve of yours Then I would say go to other route. Otherwise, it's fine as This video come to a conclusion. I hope all you guys have success in your jig building Hopefully everything turns out great. If you're new to the channel subscribe and thank you guys for watching Please comment down below. Let me know if you have any thoughts of questions I will get back to you as soon as I can and Definitely hit that like button if you guys enjoyed the video or if this was of any help to you I will catch you guys next time. Peace