How to install 5-Rib Metal Roofing panels on solid sheet decking for beginners

Hey, what's up everybody? This is CLS, all in one. In today's video, I will show you how to install metal roofing. I will be covering a lot of the basics, including the installation of the drip edge, underlayment, steel roofing panels, ridge cap, gable trim, vent pipe flashing boots, and more. So, to start with, I have just a bare roof with just OSB sheathing, and the first step from this point is to install the drip edge. This installs right at the edge of the roof in the areas where the drainage will occur. To secure the drip edge, nails or flat pan head screws can be used. Drip edge may not always be necessary when using metal roofing, but I prefer to use it because it gives more protection to the fascia, and appearance-wise, I think it looks nicer as well. Now, let's move on to the next step, which will be the underlayment. So, there's many different types of underlayment available, some with thicker padding for soundproofing, and some with slip-resistant surfaces, such as the FT Synthetic Silver, which also has a thin felt backing that offers a small amount of sound dampening. This comes in four-foot rolls and covers approximately 1,000 square feet. With the underlayment, I start at the bottom first with a slight overlap on top of the drip edge, then work my way up to the top. To secure the underlayment to the sheathing, I'm using a hammer stapler with three-eighths of an inch staples hammered every 12 inches or less going both directions. For an additional step, you can also seal all the seams of the underlayment with seam tape, which really comes in handy when the underlayment is installed and exposed to windy conditions, which may damage the underlayment. The second row of underlayment should overlap on top of the first row. Then, the third row should overlap on top of the second row, and this pattern should continue on until reaching the peak. Then, at the peak, I slightly wrap the underlayment to the opposite side, then stop. Then, I begin installing the underlayment on the bottom of the other side and work my way back up towards the top with another slight overlap to the opposite side. And with all the outside edges that do not have trim at the moment, I let the underlayment hang over about one inch. Now, it's time to start installing the metal roofing panels. I purchased these from Menards. They are available in multiple colors and measure at 36 inches wide and can be cut to custom lengths. My roof has 24-foot trusses, so 12-foot panels worked out great for me. To cut the metal panels or the flashing and trim, a wide variety of metal shears can be used. They're designed to cut in different directions and at different angles. Also, a metal cutting blade on a circular saw or angle grinder can come in really handy for a wide variety of cuts. The majority of these panels are already the correct length, so I just need to start placing a couple panels in position. What I'm going for here is an overhang on the front edge of approximately one and a half inches from the fascia. And on the gable side, I'm looking for about half of an inch overhang. But this half inch measurement only applies if gable trim is going to be used. If there's no gable trim, then I'd recommend at least a one inch overhang. And the top of the panel should be located within a few inches or less from the peak. And this measurement can vary depending on how wide your Ridgecap material is. To secure the panels, I'm using some painted hex drive screws that include a gasket for a watertight seal. The screws just need to be long enough to make it through the metal and sheathing. So right here, I'm trying to square up the panel as close as I can to the roof edges with my desired overhang. Once in position, I then secure the panel with just one screw in the top corner, then grab a second panel. So I am waiting to fully secure the first panel until I can confirm at least two panels are staying squared with the roof edges. Now, in some situations, the roof framing may not be perfectly square, so you will have to adjust the panels to match the unsquare edges. And for extreme unsquare situations, you may even have to stagger the panels. And when you're overlapping the panels, you want to make sure that the wider flange edge is located on the bottom. So right here, I'm adjusting both of the panels at the same time to get these as close to square with the edges as possible. Once in position, I then secure the second panel with just one screw at the top as well. Now it's time to finish securing these panels, starting with fully screwing down the first panel, then moving on to the second. And here's a look at the screw pattern I will be using. So on a five rib panel such as this, there will be one screw used on the inside edge of each rib, and two screws will be used on any rib where the overlap seams are located. And the spacing between each row of screws will be two feet apart. Now for any panel edge that will remain exposed, such as the front edge by the fascia, more screws should be used. With my panels, I will be installing one screw on both sides of every rib. When marking out the screw locations, it's best to measure and use a straight edge to make the screws look nice and uniformed. Pre-drilling is not necessary with these types of screws. When driving the screws, you want to be very careful not to over tighten, because this can damage the gasket and create future leaks. The screws should be tightened down to the point where the gasket just barely starts to expand. When securing the panels, I like to start at the top, then work my way down. But I wait to screw down the last row of screws until my bottom panel gasket is in position, which I will show here in just a few. Now that the first panel is secured, I can start on the second panel. Again, starting from the top and working my way to the bottom, but skipping the last row of screws. Then from this point on, I can just keep installing one panel at a time until I reach the other end. After getting multiple panels installed, it's now time to the bottom inside panel gasket. This will seal all the small gaps at the bottom of the panels. These have an adhesive backing for self-sticking, but I wait to remove this backing until I wedge the gasket into position, which is about one inch from the edge of the roof. This can be a little bit tricky to do, but I found that if I try to install the gasket before laying down the panels, it doesn't always line up correctly with the ribs, causing a bad seal. Once I have the gasket in position, I then install the last row of screws at the end of the panels, and these screws should line up with the gasket under the panels. Then, after getting all the panels installed on both sides of the roof, it's time to install the ridge cap. The ridge cap secures to the top of the peak with the use of screws and a top outside gasket. So first, I line the ridge cap up with the center of the peak, then trace marks onto the panels. Then, I remove the backing on the gaskets and place them to the inside of the marks I just made. Next, I slide the ridge cap back into position and screw it in place with a screw located at each rib. Then, with my next ridge cap, I will just slightly overlap onto the cap I have already installed by a few inches, then repeat the same steps. And where this ridge cap overlaps, I also like to apply a bead of silicone sealant to make a gasket between the two. In some situations, a ridge cap vent may be necessary. For this, you just need to use a breathable vent gasket material instead of the standard gasket. A gasket such as this will provide adequate ventilation as long as there's a gap at center of the peak. Now it's time to install the gable trim. And to start off with, I make sure it's cut to length, then do a test fit. So I will have two longer pieces of trim for each side and one short piece of trim for the center. After ensuring the trim fits, I then apply a layer of butyl tape to the inside edge of the trim where it will be coming in contact with the metal panels. Then I place the trim into position, which is flush with the metal panels and the gable face. Then screw it in place with the screw located at every two foot on the top and sides. Then I repeat the same steps on the other side. Then I install the center piece, which is just a short piece of gable trim with a cut in the center that has been bent into a shape to match the peak. So with this particular style of ridge cap and gable trim, I decided to overlap the cap with the gable trim. Then filled in the gaps with a three quarters of an inch gasket and sealant. But depending on the style of your ridge cap and gable trim, the results may vary and there may be a bunch of custom cuts involved. So with most residential homes, more than likely you will have various vent pipes and ventilation vents sticking out of your roof. For this, there are various products available which have very pliable rubber boots that can bend and shape to match the surface of your metal roof. Now I will show you an example of how to install a pipe flashing boot on a metal panel. First, you need to measure and mark the panel where the vent or vent pipe will be located. Then I use a sharp metal chisel to puncture a hole in the area that needs to be cut. Then I use a pair of shears to cut the hole. Next, I test fit the panel and make sure it fits properly. And everything looks good. So I will now go ahead and secure it with screws. Now these vent pipes are ready for a pipe flashing boot. So this is a universal boot that can fit one inch through six inch pipes. But there are multiple sizes of these available. These are designed to be cut to the exact size needed. You just need to measure the outside diameter of the pipe. Then use a razor blade to cut a hole in the rubber boot that's approximately one quarter of an inch smaller than the outside diameter of the pipe. And this will ensure that the rubber boot has a nice tight fit around the pipe. Now I will apply a very thick bead of silicone sealant to the bottom of the boot. Then place it over the pipe. Then I secure it to the metal panel with the same hex drive gasketed screws I use for the metal panels. And I drive a screw approximately every one inch around the entire base of the boot. And this will begin to mold it to the same shape as the metal panel. Now it's time to add some sealant to the top of the boot. So first I push the top of the rubber boot down. Then add a thick bead of silicone sealant to the top of the boot. Then I pull the boot back up and add another bead of sealant. Which will ensure that the boot has a nice watertight seal. So here's a look at the vent pipes before adding the flashing boots. And here is after. So that concludes all the basic steps for this metal roof installation video. Now I would like to show you a quick preview of some of the other processes involved for this metal roof. I recently added an addition to my home which involved a fairly complicated roof tie-in. So here's a look at the tie-in. At this point I have the OSB sheathing in place and some valley flashing installed. This tie-in involved around four custom trusses that gradually got shorter to match up with the existing pitch. Here's a look at some of the valley flashing right where the tie-in meets. And right here I'm cutting the metal to match the angle. And this is the piece I just cut. At this point I have all the underlayment in place and I just need to keep cutting some more panels to install. Cutting all the angles for the panels is really not that hard. It just involves a lot of measuring. However the ridge cap can get quite tricky. It needs to be installed in a manner where the lower pieces all get overlapped by the higher pieces. And a lot of custom cuts, sealant, and gaskets are involved. Okay it's now time for me to go. If you like this video, if you could hit that like button and subscribe. And have yourself a great day and I'll see you next time.