Recreating the Crux of World's Hardest Climb

RockShades
98 followers
29 Video Views·Dec 20, 2022
That's the hardest I've seen you try on a problem while we've been doing this video.
Yes.
Not everybody has crack volumes, but that doesn't stop you setting crack problems.
So today we're going to set a whole crack boulder
without any crack volumes at all.
So we're going to put that
back on the crack shelf.
All of that is out of bounds.
We're going to go shopping for crack holds, but not cracks,
but holds which can make cracks.
That's the plan.
I'm thinking stacking, not stacking as in hand stacking,
stacking volumes, stacking volumes together.
Whilst choosing the holds, I thought it'd be cool to include a jam
from the world's hardest route.
That's like not a crack, not a crack, not a crack.
It's got to be inventive.
I'm seeing the hiding from me, hiding.
Yeah, this should work.
Found some lattice rungs.
Cheeky mono in there.
You're allowed to screw into lattices, do expensive holds.
Back to those in the morning.
They do make cracks in my mind,
so we'll find out whether they relate to cracks on the wall.
I'm kind of keen to maybe start in a fist jam,
potentially like flick up into a foot jam.
Good hand jams, cut loose, flipperoo, mono, mono.
Let's get cracking.
The first thing that we want to do is screw into lattices.
Oh, I love it.
It's great.
I'm thinking screw that onto there.
I think that's good.
I'm going to flick up to a foot jam, silence style.
Setting silence indoors.
That's a crack if I ever saw one.
And that's an absolute bummer.
That's a good one.
But that's going to be for the foot initially.
At this point, I didn't plan on setting anything really hard.
I just wanted variety.
So if I do set a finger jam at the top, I'll have a finger jam,
a thin hand jam, a hand jam, a foot jam and a fist jam.
And I won't have used a single crack volume.
Crack volumes are available from our website though.
With soft grip.
These don't have any soft gripping at all.
It's going to be hideous.
Lattice are going to be psyched with that.
Product placement to the max.
Oh, that hasn't gone well, has it?
Well, oh ----.
All right, shall we give it a go?
Oh, I could have put that bit far.
You did say and I didn't listen.
All boulders definitely require some tweaking.
Maybe this one there, which I can put my toe on
and then I'll be able to kick my right foot through.
So I'll be able to get my hips a little bit closer into the wall.
See if the theory works.
I mean, I was better.
Yeah, we're going to have to move that up a little bit.
That's looking closer.
This is going to be tricky.
Really tricky.
I wonder if I can get my right toe in and just
whack a sort of like heel,
heel toe thing over the top.
Problem here is that you only have one jam.
Oh, cheating.
Oh, that's savage.
This is pretty tricky.
All the jams are there, though.
I haven't done very many moves,
but I just want to see if this end bit with the knee bar works.
OK, it works.
It's pretty sore on the knee bar patch, actually.
I've just got to get this bottom bit sorted.
And it works.
Oh, I could climb all the other parts,
but the start revolving around the single hand and foot jam was just savage.
Oh, that's tricky.
Oh, that was a bit tricky.
I'm going to start from this and just see,
put my foot up and see where my foot can go and my hand.
I mean, it nearly works with the foot there.
Come on, Pete.
Then everything just came together and it clicked.
I've set the move from silence.
I should just climb on it like that move from silence.
You look at it and you go, oh, yes, like massive jam, massive jam, massive jam.
But that's not that good.
It's all right.
That's really good.
But you only get one hand in it and that's just right at the beginning.
Come on, Pete.
Yes, Pete, nice.
Come on, Pete.
Yes, come on.
Come on, Pete.
Yes.
Oh, that actually worked.
Oh, I'm broken now.
Just ripped the skin and everything.
It's ravaged.
