Climbing's Strangest Move, T-stacking

RockShades
98 followers
31 Video Views·Dec 20, 2022
Today we're going to do a crack move that I've never tried before, the inverted t-stack.
So, first thing, set a t-stack.
A t-stack is where you shape your feet like a T and stack.
One foot like that, and one foot like that.
I've used these before on chimneys, but I've never used it inverted, so today is going to be the day.
I want to start quite low, maybe in a backwards jug.
Pull up, front lever into the t-stack.
I reckon we actually start with the jug and then measure to where we're going to get the t-stack.
Let's say you put your left foot on that side and then bring the right foot in that way.
It's going to be about wherever that is.
It's like there, I reckon the bottom of the crack about.
I think it's going to be pretty tricky actually.
I think if there was a large amount of depth to the volumes, then you'd be cooking.
I have seen it done before though, once, by Sachi Ami, and he did it in between two lobby volumes.
He was in a roof, flicked his feet out.
Maybe Sachi Ami was the first person to ever do the inverted t-stack.
Everything's the most genuine problem ever set, and also probably one of the most difficult that we've set on the channel.
If I can get it looking like that, I'm not going to lie, I'll be pretty happy.
I think it's got to be something along those lines, hasn't it?
In theory, this shouldn't fit across the width.
I mean, you're not going to be able to jam your foot in that, are you? It is too big.
Let's just try this first bit as a little tester, and then see how the problem develops from that.
I mean, it works. It's just a little bit tricky to hold that actually.
This has potential though. The problem is what I do from that to make it into a problem.
It's really tricky.
Maybe if I put a slight taper on it.
Is there another way you would approach it if you got this on a route?
I mean, the only other way you would approach it would be to go for some desperate layback.
Maybe if you're Tomoa or something like that, then you might be able to.
I don't think I could approach it in any other way.
It also depends where you're going after this sequence.
At the moment, I think I'm just keen to try and hang the position.
Hang the position and then think about moving.
Bring the climb down to your level.
When it's not going right, lower the standard until you can do it.
That's what I'm doing now.
I'm just going to put a tiny little constriction in it.
It means when I put the T-stack above and they slide down, it's going to get tighter and tighter.
That's the theory.
Left foot in, right foot there.
I feel like that has potential.
Yeah, that was close, wasn't it?
I need to commit out of it.
Where do I go from there then?
So, T-stack.
And then I think you're just going to have to pull up, maybe pull up your own legs.
And then just into the top of the volume.
Is that possible?
You're going to be really bunched up there, aren't you?
Come on, T-stack.
I'm in?
Yeah!
What do I do?
I'm totally in.
I'm like so in.
I was totally in then.
I think maybe a little screw on above the feet to get hold above.
And then something.
So, I think it's possible.
So now I think it's possible.
I want to make more of it.
Because when I get to here, I don't just want to finish here.
I want to get a bit more of the problem in so it actually kind of looks like a problem.
Not sure yet, but I think we can get a knee bar from here to here, maybe.
Could be a bit tight.
And then if you can get a knee bar and a hands-off rest,
then I'm thinking finish over here on some holds that you can't actually grab onto.
So you have to knee bar, you have to get that no-hands-rest finish.
And it's going to be a splat on the wall.
My knee is definitely longer than that.
But I'm thinking toe, knee.
Works with the rest of the problem, I think.
It's going to be somewhere over there, isn't it?
And what do you reckon, like that or something?
Imagine if they set this in a World Cup.
People would be baffled, wouldn't they?
They'd probably just dino.
Just campus dino.
Like just pull off the ground.
I can imagine somebody doing that.
Yeah, Jan, maybe something like Jan really tall.
Or somebody really explosive, just straight up to that.
There's just nothing to push off when it wouldn't be cheatable, I think.
If the board went all the way back at 45, so there wasn't even a flat bit there.
Because then you would have to, like then you'd be canvassing.
Then you'd have to be an absolute powerhouse to do that.
It would definitely be uncheatable if you spent a little bit more time on it.
Like at the moment, I could see somebody really strong,
some of those really strong competitors, you know, coming in,
potentially lay back and just doing that.
But with a little bit more time spent and tweaking it,
I think you could keep it relatively similar to this, but make it 100% not cheatable.
And this is also quite cool as well, like the finish hold.
I'm not being funny, but not even the real, real best ones can hold that.
I mean Ondra can, but he didn't count.
Yes!
That worked.
That was actually successful.
And had two no-hands rests.
I'm pretty happy with that.
I could have moved that finishing hold further to the left actually.
So I thought that actually went really well.
It wasn't quite how I envisaged right at the beginning with a perfect T-stack.
So side of the foot and then heel going into this part and then jamming here.
It was more of what I might call a lowercase T.
So I was a bit more upright with that foot,
and I was jamming with the heel on the top of the foot there
and bringing the feet across like that.
So I'm going to call it a lowercase T-stack.
Then the uppercase T-stack.
I might just have to wait for another day.
