Les années 50, la mode en France 1947-1957 | Palais Galliera - musée de la mode

We are at the Palais Galliera where a major retrospective on the 1950s is taking place We have selected 120 haute couture models from the museum's archives ose that highlight the great names of fashion from this decade the four beacons of creatio These are Christian Dior Pierre Balmain Jacques Fath and Cristobal Balenciaga Then we also wanted to show houses with names that are less well known today but they showed the great vitality of French haute couture at that time There is also a selection of accessories shoes jewelry and hats that show how Paris was the capital of creation the form of development growth and new appetite They tried to work on what the 1950s icon could be at is a style with a strong waist with very rounded hips With full skirts or pencil skirts with rounded shoulders I think if we asked all the visitors to draw a 1950s dress they would more or less go for that ideogram It is almost a Hollywood archetype Then the exhibition was cut like a magazine of the time When you open a 1950s fashion magazine you enter a category of daytime suits en afternoon dresses then cocktail dresses then evening dresses Therefore the exhibition follows this classic structure The drawing of the 1950s begins in 1947 When Christian Dior revolutionized the New Look It was really a very contrasting style compared to what it was in the 1940s There was a natural modesty regarding fashion in the 1940s Parisian women primarily They adopted an offensive attitude with elegance during these years of war One could sometimes think that the fashion of the 1940s had an exaggerated character It is a reaction to the occupier But it is a somewhat rough caricatural style With the 1950s a right is once again given to femininity The woman's body is placed at the center of the issue it is compressed We came across these gains we came across these very advantageous volumes Dior is truly the artisan of this way of modeling fashion in a different way For all of the 1950s we will be on this icon Miss Chanel when she returns in 1954 She expresses a desire to break away from what she calls an outdated fashion for women Her every elegance can sometimes also imprison her She invents the Chanel suit which is a clothing solution Even before being a fashion movement and one that will be unsuccessful In a way Miss Chanel Open the way for the perspectives of 1960s fashion In the 1950s there was a fashion that targeted a somewhat intimidating group of customers These were women rather than young girls When looking at magazine covers you see a certain Brigitte Bardot appear She is a model and will become an actress You can see that she doesn't dress quite the same way She has a slightly lighter wardrobe less stiff less elaborate There are beach dresses that end up on the asphalt This section has been categorized beach dress afternoon dress o show how this new younger wardrobe which was really made for young girls and less for their mothers He somewhat anticipated a leisure wardrobe but more broadly the new ready-to-wear who would prevail at the end of the 1950s They wanted to end on the cocktail dress because presumably if you ask anyone What is the fashion of the 1950s probably it will draw more or less this shape of the cocktail dress There is even an outdated term in the name "cocktail dress" that refers to the dresses from the 1950s But there is also a couture spirit that is embodied in it We will see it in the 1960s and 1970s There will be a major purgatory in the style of the 1950s The designers won't want to go back to this model which was that of their parents And it was in the 1980s that designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler emerged They will recite the vocabulary of the 1950s When you want to give a couture spirit to a collection Often people turn to the vocabulary of the cocktail dress which is somewhat an archetype to summarize tailoring