Bassline - The UK's Longest Urban Roof Climb

RockShades
98 followers
17 Video Views·Jan 9, 2023
So the Warwick roof project, I actually got to hear about this via some DMs on Instagram
and the really funny thing was was I was getting really bored with the lack of access of travel
abroad over the last few months. I'd gotten to this frustrated state where I'd ended up going
on Google and searching for bridge cracks, canal roof bridge, concrete crack, just randomly on
Google and funnily enough I found this really good looking bridge and I think it was labeled
on the internet as being in Warwick and then I was like well this is just impossible to find
an actual Warwick bridge, like there's no geo tag on this, I've got no idea. So then I thought well
why don't I just put something on Instagram saying I'm looking for some Warwick climbers
who might be in the know and then I got this message back from someone on Instagram saying
yeah that's our bridge and we know about this and really coincidentally they'd actually been out
maybe the day before and checked out this bridge and have been aiding along it and they thought
that somehow I had got news of this project and I was coming down to do it but actually it was
complete coincidence. So the way in which I found this was this really weird match-up of Googling
plus a local set of students had been trying these projects. When I first went down there to
try the roof it was obvious straight away that this was a proper good roof crack, just like the
stuff that we've been trying up in Edinburgh and some of the other concrete bridge roof cracks.
Totally parallel, really really good quality roof crack climbing and this one here is about
70 foot, maybe 75 foot long. There's a variety of roof sizes on this one actually.
I spoke to the guys when I first met up with them, they were there like it was a freezing cold day
and I drove down from Sheffield. I think they looked at me like is he just gonna have a go?
I didn't really know what to do so I just thought I'll get some friends out, I'll get a rope out,
I don't really know what the sizes are like all the way along and whether it was a good size all
the way and I haven't really got a warm-up either so I set out on the first attempt just with a set
of friends and placing gear as I went and actually as it happened there was a tight spot that I
wasn't quite expecting and I got a lot more pumped than I was expecting as well on the first attempt
which I think was maybe a combination of being very cold and also having to move out. There's
little blocks of concrete and rubble inside the crack so they're constantly falling down on your
hands as you're climbing so that was definitely a little bit of an issue. So I went along placing
the gear and I must have got to two-thirds or three-quarters of the way along and I just had
to take on it and you definitely have to go for a please take me rather than just fall off because
actually you're not that far above the water and it'd be really easy to end up, you know, you get
caught by the rope but you actually still end up in the water soaking wet which wasn't very appealing
because it was about three, four, five degrees celsius that day. I think there was even a tiny little bit
of snow on the ground in the areas which were kind of out of the sunlight. I think it maybe snowed a
few days beforehand or it was very very frosty. So I had that first attempt which wasn't that
productive although I did get some friends in and then I thought right okay I know what I'm doing I'm
just going to really go for it on a proper attempt and that time I climbed a little bit more shore on
it but as usual because the crack was only one width and you need multiple friends all of the
same width which I don't have, I ended up in this scenario of thinking well I'll just gun it right
at the end and kind of treat it like a little mini deep water solo and just hope that that last
section of the crack doesn't pinch down and get too thin.
And even as I was going along that section because I hadn't actually dimmed that bit
until my kind of full lead attempt, bits of concrete were falling off on me on that one
which was quite distracting actually and I was very pumped like really pumped on that first attempt
and as I got towards the end and I could see the railing just kind of winking at me
I went for it and I nearly thought oh I've just gone in too hard here and I've cut my feet loose
with not much left in the tank and I'm not going to reach the railing but one little swing back in
and I grabbed it and it was all good. Definitely pretty pumped on that one, I think it was a really
good first route to do down there which would be 5.11 plus maybe 5.12 territory in terms of grade
and I would say is one of the most classic concrete roof cracks that I've done so far.
Oh it's definitely pumped.
I think actually a couple more moves might have fallen off. I got some really cold
in the middle section and then I was like trying to hang around and get slightly warm
and I got really pumped. I was like thinking about that the whole time going
I'm going to place that and I was like I'm too pumped but then I was like oh screw it
I'll just fall in the water if I have to. I can't grab enough to fall in the water.
Going for the solo lap on the Warwick roof crack project which we ended up calling baseline
I think there was some graffiti on the wall which said something around base it seemed like a nice
appropriate name to call the line because all the rest of the projects down at Warwick I think
are considerably harder. There's some good hard projects to be had down there I think in the 5.13
plus range really tricky paddle hands. So when I decided to come back for the solo lap I did this
in the other direction. I think I actually might have done this twice but it seemed fun to try it
in two directions and I also had a go at doing it without taping my hands just to see how that would
be. This really is testament to how good this particular roof crack is because it's so smooth
inside it's actually very very comfortable to do without tape or without rubber jammies on
and in reality this maybe makes it a little bit easier as well because the size fits a bit better.
There have been problems in the past with ripping gear on these concrete smooth roof cracks but this
one felt pretty okay and I think there wouldn't be any issues with it. You can see that there's
someone watching in the background whilst I'm going across the river and it's been funny doing
these laps of different roof cracks around the country because I think the general public are
very interested about what you're doing and why you're doing it. You get a mixture of things like
are you bridge maintenance people? Are you spider-man? What have you found in there? What's up
with the cobwebs? A lot of people ask about what we're holding inside of the crack. They think
there's a pipe or there's holds inside the crack. They really find it hard to grasp this whole thing
of how jamming works and I think that's really interesting. The public also ask a lot about
whether you've fallen in a lot and that has happened on a few occasions. One particular
occasion is we've got another really good solo roof crack venue which is in Doncaster which is
maybe half an hour away from Sheffield which myself, Pete, Ollie Tor, Maddy Cope, a number of people
have been to now and this is a really friendly shallow water slash deep water solo crack venue
because it's in a very nice area, it's properly lit, the water's really clean and you're absolutely
sure there's no shopping trolleys or weird dangerous stuff in the water and that's worked
out as being a very nice place to go and do a number of laps with.
Come on!
And all of these roof cracks really are actually, if I'm thinking about it, slightly better versions
of the training down the cellar and the reason for that is that when you look at how the feet
work or how you feel when the feet work in these concrete bridge roof cracks is it's a lot more
comfortable than the wooden cracks that you get when you put two pieces of parallel wood together
because there's a slight chamfer on the edge of the concrete so it acts like a groove and when
your feet go in you don't have a sharp edge that you're rubbing against. Having no sharp edge on
the edge of the crack is so much better and so much more comfortable so you can actually enjoy
the climbing a lot more. The other nice thing is with a lot of these routes and these projects is
that they're over canals so the bridges aren't that high above the water so it's a very workable height
and I think is about as good as it gets really. I've enjoyed so much of this bridge roof climbing,
I think there's a lot more potential in it than we realise. I've said this before but I feel like
if you get a generation of crack climbers going on these concrete bridge roof cracks and putting
some proper time in, this can be converted into the next level of crack climbing outside. This is
just a whole other world that's opened up from this form of climbing. It's pure, it's technical,
there's no compromise on it and it's really really pumpy so brilliant, I love all of it.
Nice!
