Concrete 8b (5.13d) - Urban Climbing at its finest

RockShades
98 followers
1 Video View·Jan 9, 2023
You know what this is, just here behind me?
This is Sheffield...
No, Yorkshire.
No, the UK's best crack.
The Mar Dooley, Derek Dooley Way bridge.
This crack on here, it's like an E6,
so in US grades, 512D,
split of roof crack, gold cams all the way,
pretty easy move all the way,
but it gets harder and harder, super, super pumpy,
but what I'm going to try and do for a training exercise
is link as much of back and forth on the crack as possible,
and then I've also got a load of Sheffield,
Peak District crowd behind me,
a load of crack heads in the good way
who are going to do some,
do a little mini crack school on a roof crack,
on an E6 roof crack.
It'll be nice to see, one, how everyone is,
we'll probably get a few falls, no doubt,
and we'll definitely get a lot of really pumped thumbs.
So what we're doing at the moment is,
we're basically just warming up in the first section,
so you'll see that there's the starting point there,
all the way through to the edge of where the water starts in the canal,
and this is like a 511-ish warm-up,
but everyone isn't quite knowing how dirty it is,
so basically all the cars above,
they make the crack really dirty,
so my tactic is to leave it for everyone else
to clean the beginning of the crack up a little bit,
don't tell anyone,
and then I get a good run of the first 30 foot of the crack,
then we get over the water,
and it gets a little bit longer and continuous,
and at the same time, it's a really good place as well
to teach everyone how to do this first bit,
because if you fall off, you hit the ground,
I don't think I'm going to, I think I might hit the ground.
No, don't worry, I'll just drop down.
You can go back down to the ground when you fall off on the rope,
and it's just kind of like fun for learning and everything like that,
so this is just like the warm-up bit,
and everyone's kind of getting stuck into that,
so it's really cool.
You've got that hand in there,
like marching hands,
because when you come around with that hand there,
it feels like it locks to the back of your wrist,
so the trick is, with that bottom shoulder,
is to open the chest out,
so rather than coming up like this and climbing with a square chest,
just drop the chest, and you can come up,
and you just get your wrists into position,
so as you do it, you're basically rolling your wrists all the way along.
Keep going.
Keep going, keep going.
One more move.
One, two, three, four, five.
That's five at the start.
I feel like I've got some of the wrong size.
Like, look at this one.
And look at my hand size.
It's just wrong.
That's the problem.
Incorrect kit.
So the aim is this evening,
I want to try and see what my double lap is.
So that was my go-big-go,
and am I disappointed?
It definitely was a bit harder than I was expecting.
I feel like I've got half of Sheffield's roads,
basically like a strip down my chest,
as I've been climbing like this,
and it just kind of pulls crap onto me,
and then it kind of goes into your face and in your eyes,
and into your mouth,
which is an interesting experience.
But it's really pumpy.
Proper little fighter.
My hands felt kind of okay.
It's quite dusty,
but that's almost like chalking up to me,
if you want me to argue that.
But my shins, man, my shins were so pumped.
Yeah, it's good.
I like it.
Hard.
Doing a double lap on that.
Definitely a bit harder than I thought.
I thought it would be like 13B,
or something like that, double.
And I think it's quite a bit harder than that,
because I've done plenty of 13A and 13B of that shape,
or size, and they're not like that.
So yeah, good little fighter.
So we've got to the end of the day, pretty much.
Nice sunny day in Sheffield.
It's like 9.30pm or something.
I just want to show you,
you can see how dirty it is in the crack,
is that that's like my tan line.
I've just taken a bit of tape off there
for the difference in the forearm.
So it's definitely a little bit dirty.
And Pete's away at the moment,
so he's in Norway enjoying some granite,
whilst I'm here enjoying some concrete.
I think I prefer my deal.
I think I've got a better deal.
And hopefully he's coming back pretty soon,
because we're going to get on a massive project.
Can't say too much about it,
but it's big.
It's a roof crack,
and it's really, really long.
Yeah, we will be back again,
or I will be back again,
probably in another week's time.
I hope you feel psyched about the bridge roof cracks,
because I actually think they're really, really good.
Go and hunt them out.
There's loads of good stuff
wherever you live in the world.
We've definitely seen a load over in Germany,
and not just the UK.
Otherwise, don't forget to subscribe to the channel.
We always appreciate it.
And we will catch you again soon.
Yeah, film me.
