Nicaragua, la beauté au naturel - Voyager au Nicaragua - Documentaire voyage

Nicaragua is explored through its tropical jungle and colonial cities Its warm people and history are revealed through local legends songs and poetry An exceptional and preserved nature constitutes a true temple of biodiversity A land of lakes and volcanoes Nicaragua reveals its impetuous nature Spicy colorful festive you indulge freely in its Caribbean villages and endless deserted beaches For several years the weapons of the revolution have been put aside The doors of Nicaragua have opened to reveal the treasures of a country The discovery of Nicaragua generally begins in Managua The city can enchant as it can disappoint Sometimes these two feelings combine to become one The capital of Nicaragua does not have the obvious charm of other cities in the country with its vast boulevards that cut through it and its chaotic development The city well embodies the country's turbulent history La Place de la République formerly known as the Place of the Revolution is home to the main public monuments in Managua The main political gatherings of recent decades have taken place here The capital like the country gives the impression of searching for its path between colonial past dictatorship revolution and liberalism Travelers passing through generally stay in Managua only as long as necessary Yet 1.4 million residents fiercely defend it Perhaps it's worth a more in-depth detour Throughout the city you can find reminders of the revolution and the silhouette of Sandino reminds people of his mystical hold over the country Parrots are commonly found in Managua The city is surrounded by a dense jungle We must learn here how to cope with this chaotic world We are escaping Managua by road Heading north towards the city of León The old city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1610 Fully rebuilt León is today one of the most interesting cities in the country León reveals several layers of history From the elegance of the colonial era to the bustling university city of today The cathedral was built in several stages between 1746 and 1860 The interior features Baroque elements as well as a valuable wooden representation of Christ from Old Leon An important renovation project was carried out in 1992 with the help of the Spanish government The famous poet of the country Rubén Dario is buried here This cathedral is intended to be one of the largest in Central America The five ships were the work of a Guatemalan architect The cloister next to the cathedral offers a refreshing place of calm Founded in 1524 at the same time as Granada León was among the contenders for the title of capital of Nicaragua The Church of the Recolection is one of the most remarkable attractions in the city This church built at the end of the 18th century It has a baroque façade adorned with twisted columns and incredible naive medallions with religious symbols The San Juan market is drawing in fans of the genre Always bustling overflowing into the surrounding streets It immerses you in a lively and vibrant Nicaragua filled with music cries pungent smells and dazzling colors Parrots are also friendly guests here and not always discreet They make excellent pets Here the parrot is matched with its T-shirt Léone definitely cultivates her elegance Nicaragua has two coasts By leaving Leon to the west you arrive at the village of Peneloya on the Pacific coast These quiet beaches are overrun on weekends when city dwellers come in search of a bit of freshness But during the week you can enjoy it peacefully On the Pacific coast nature is triumphant and breathtaking And it does not seem to pay attention to the inhabitants However they are not far away making a living along the coast Fishing or living along the beaches A few minutes from Peneloya is a small fishing village called Las Penitas This place is especially known for its easy access To discover the mangroves of the Lila Juan Venado Natural Reserve Lila Juan Venado stretches for 22 km but is only 250 m wide Here we enter a wonderful aquatic world crowded with herons and migratory birds Impressive but completely harmless Lila Juan is part of the Pacific coast landscape The ocean floor is also full of fish Fished responsibly this net fishing is not expensive in fuel and does not deplete resources Tomorrow if everything goes well there will be ray fish in local restaurants On the other side of Léone heading east you will find the chain of volcanoes in the northern part of the country Located on the Pacific Ring of Fire in a region prone to earthquakes and eruptions Nicaragua has no fewer than forty volcanoes nine of which are active Alain Creusot is a volcanologist and has lived in Nicaragua for 40 years He has dedicated his life to the study of volcanoes This poses absolutely no risk to the population On the contrary Cerro Negro volcano with its ashes comes to fertilize all the leeward plains between the volcanic chain and the coast Le Cerro Negro has frequent eruptions The last one occurred in 1999 The volcano erupted ash to nearly 8 000 meters in altitude On the road at the foot of the volcano we see families wearing their finest clothes It's Sunday and everyone is going to church Catholicism is the most practiced religion in Nicaragua But evangelical churches have emerged as an unavoidable new force At the national level Under the influence of evangelist pastors places of worship are beginning to appear even in the most remote rural areas Sunday mass also creates a social bond People come from far away and sometimes from an isolated farm This little girl is on her way back home on horseback Used here frequently to get around Heading north you pass through the city of Telica without lingering much We still take the opportunity to admire the beautiful church Let's not hide it what interests us about this region is the presence of volcanoes It reaches 1 061 meters and has the particularity of having two craters Rising to power is no walk in the park The last major eruption occurred in 1765 Telica is however a particularly active volcano The Telica the most active volcano in Nicaragua has been continuously active for 108 years An eruption every two years or so but an activity that poses absolutely no risk to nearby populations The setting becomes surreal as one approaches the crater The fumes contribute to this mysterious and unsettling atmosphere Arrived at the summit one finds oneself in the mouth of the monster The spectacle is fascinating when one discovers a lake of incandescent lava at 800 degrees The Telica is one of the 10 most beautiful volcanoes in the world Sandra Cinto is the only town near this fire belt Built just 50 years ago It is located outside the danger zone in case the volcano becomes threatening The soil here is too hot and nothing grows The residents are trying to take advantage of geothermal resources to produce electricity In this rural landscape the presence of schoolchildren in uniforms is noticeable Nicaragua long held the sad privilege To be the least educated in Central America A large part of the population was illiterate Few children completed primary school The situation began to change in the late 1970s with the efforts of the Sandinista government A massive literacy campaig A permit to triple the number of students during the 1980s As we continue our walk the lunar landscapes succeed one another You can witness surprising phenomena related to volcanic activity such as mud volcanoes small hot mud geysers The mountainous regions of Nicaragua offer a less stifling climate than the lowlands The mercury can rise quite high during the day but it drops significantly in the evening Bathed in light and filled with fresh air this region still little visited by tourists is very pleasant She is covered with family farms Here the presence of water allows for rice cultivation Esteli is the main city of the Central Highlands Sandinista stronghold it suffered greatly during the 1970s It was driven to the center of the conflicts Gradually the traces left by the battles disappeared but the disastrous result of the war The city has many widows and orphans Esteli produces one of the best tobaccos in the world Tobacco cultivation requires constant care The growth of the plants is closely monitored The grower checks each plant about 150 times The care is constant the watering is done foot by foot The harvest also takes place entirely by hand leaf by leaf She starts in March and continues until April Esteli will surely charm cigar lovers Nicaraguans will tell you that they are better here than the Cubans Today Padrone is one of the largest cigar factories Making a cigar is an art You need the intuition of a chef and the dexterity of a magician According to a formula made famous Some 170 operations are necessary before smoking a good chair leg The leaves are first selected according to their size and quality after harvesting and drying The manufacturing method also determines the final quality In the factory cigars are hand-rolled by the torcedors in a room called the galera In the early 19th century factories were prisons Where did the custom of seating weavers in long rows like galley slaves originate A cigarette passes from hand to hand Each person here has a particular role This arrangement gives the impression of a perfectly orchestrated piece Today in the factory we have 350 workers Currently in the fields depending on the time of year it 's seasonal work there are more people we have 400 people The final step is baggage and packaging Esteli is an agricultural region where horses are still widely used for transportation The lord Arends is what is called here A salt merchant that is a salt manufacturer In his family they have tanned leather for generations to produce Everything needed for horse mounting The family workshop is located in town Today it is his son who is in charge The shop His father can retire after teaching him all the tricks of the trade The salts are entirely made by hand and custom-made features that suit both the horse and the rider We make salts for people who work in the fields as well as for cowboys who guard the livestock Our clientele is from the country but also from neighboring countries By going even further north towards Honduras we are in the Nueva Segovia region The forests are very important In these humid mountain areas In Nicaragua a large number of species are exploited that provide various products Wood but also resin gum balm oil spices and vegetable seeds Forest walks are an opportunity To admire an incredible wealth of trees plants and flowers In the heart of these forests you also find coffee plantations These shrubs find the necessary shade in this region for their development Coffee production is often associated with vast estates In reality it is family-run smallholdings in 80% of cases less than 5 hectares This traditional cultivation does not require pesticides and is environmentally friendly Our operation has obtained fair trade certification It is something very important for us especially regarding the protection of families and in particular The work of women and the work of children It is an important social advancement and it is also a good thing in terms of education After harvesting the coffee must be quickly stripped of its fleshy outer layer to prevent bitterness from drying or washing Here we wash This technique can only apply to very ripe fruits The process consists after breaking the cherry's skin Soak the fruits in water long enough for fermentation to break down the fleshy part This results in washed coffees less acidic and with better mouthfeel Nicaraguan coffee produces the best crops in Central America It then needs to be sorted To remove all spoiled beans This operation is still done by hand here After drying the coffee is ready to be roasted Ocotal is the capital of Nueva Segovia province Between the forest the coffee and other crops there is practically no unemployment here Many farms work here within the framework of fair trade cooperatives They bring together various agricultural activities but also of handicraft Ocotal is today an active city focused on agriculture and commerce It is also a historical site against American imperialism Many Nicaraguans died in the mountains around the city During the war led by Sandino in opposition to American interventions The first victory took place here in 1927 We are in a fair trade cooperative that brings together 7 plantations According to a principle that is gaining popularity this system allows for fair compensation plus just producers After roasting the coffee is packaged in various forms The trend is to try to distinguish the origins and to promote the recognition of terroir Here you can taste different types of coffee depending on the variety of plants and the climatic conditions and depending on the exposure of altitude and drying techniques In Nicaragua it is customary to pour hot water over ground coffee Then let it rest In the imagination of Central America the hammock holds a special place Who doesn't dream of a good nap in the shade when it's hot Rocked by a gentle sway on a whisper of air In Nicaragua hammocks are also associated with work The making requires real expertise to obtain a hammock that is both comfortable resistant and obviously very beautiful The hues are not without recalling the spectacular plumage of the stables Nature is here a source of inspiration for many Handmade crafts Return to the center of the country The city of Masaya holds a special place in Nicaragua The history is etched into the streets e buildings and even on the faces of the inhabitants The city is indeed in a region that long refused To submit to the Spaniards Masaya is recognized today as a center of handicraft The folkloric traditions are deeply rooted in the souls of the residents It is one of the few places in the Pacific region of Nicaragua where people proudly display their indigenous roots Laguna Apoya is located between Masaya and Granada It is the largest crater lake in Nicaragua From the Catarina Lookout The view is breathtaking The blue waters are particularly attractive especially when it's very hot We take the bus again to head towards Grenada This city is a true gem A restored colonial town and small enough to be walked around it has a rich history and an undeniable charm The city's residents traditional conservatives are moreover known for their snobbery throughout the rest of Nicaragua The elegant blue façade of the Church of San Francisco invites us to park the Porsche to admire the frescoes The old convent Built in 1529 it was used as a military quarter Today it houses a museum Designed around a large courtyard filled with palm trees the highlight of the visit is in the Salaz a Pareria It houses 27 pre-Columbian statues Sculpted by Corotégas between the 9th and 13th centuries their size suggests they could have supported the roof of a building Halfway between the center and the lake the Guadalupe church is quite run-down It was a silent witness to the Numerous battles that marked the history of Granada particularly with the arrival of pirates and flibusters The San Francisco convent housed Bartolomé de Las Casas a respected defender of the indigenous peoples of Latin America in the 16th century Tired of the mistreatment suffered by the Indians this Dominican priest began his long correspondence with the King of Spain Reading his letters which denounced the atrocities committed against indigenous peoples led to a more humane treatment of the indigenous people Las Casas is considered a pioneer by the current bishop of Chiapas a devoted protector of indigenous peoples The cathedral features simple vaults that create an austere atmosphere around the striking depiction of the Virgin Mary Along the walk you discover solid houses well-preserved and restored A walk here has the feel of a journey owards a bygone colonial era Once the city tour is over head to the shores of Cosibolda the famous Nicaragua Lake Just before sunrise you can observe here a wide variety of bird species herons egrets jacanas and other migrants No visit to Granada would be complete without a trip to the Isletas a tiny archipelago of 360 emerald green islets formed as a result of an eruption of the Mombacho volcano You need some experience to not get lost in the maze of natural canals surrounding the islands The locals know every single one They know exactly where to cast their net We often meet very friendly residents here the so -called spider monkeys due to their very long arms They enjoy the fruits that grow abundantly here Some of these lush islands are only a few meters in diameter while others take pride in being much larger of luxury homes and more recently hotels The total population of the islands is 2000 people even though it gives the impression of being deserted The place is perfectly suited for dreaming of an image of a tropical paradise We resume the road that winds between the banana plantations not without a certain regret at leaving Granada Nicaragua is a country that reveals itself through music It occupies a large part of people's lives There is no street corner word or village that does not reflect this who does not feel the rhythm of a salsa or a folk tune Nicaraguans who call themselves nicas form a people full of a remarkable blend of solemnity and exuberance and happiness and sadness Nicaragua is an essentially agricultural country The production of sugar cane is important There are many plantations throughout the country The harvested sugarcane has passed through a mill to extract the cane juice The bagasse the waste from the sugarcane will be used to heat the kettle in which the juice is boiled You can still find many of these small workshops where most operations are still done manually with old equipment Nicaragua is one of the poorest countries in Latin America The more modern machines are not affordable for small farmers This does not prevent them from making excellent products that can be found in our markets through fair trade cooperatives For a long time the country was in the hands of wealthy families who employed agricultural workers at starvation wages within vast properties the fincas The redistribution of land has enabled the creation of small farms like this one You must be careful to succeed You must be especially careful with the machines to extract the sweet juice from the cane It must be done carefully and well mixed to get the maximum sugar The Nicaraguan society has embraced the traditional values of Latin America Hard work is part of it The juice is then poured into wooden vats where it is regularly stirred before ending up in molds Once cooled these sugar loaves are ready for consumption and sale Saint-Rouen d'Elsour is a seaside town perfect for relaxing with services and facilities focused on relaxation and water -based pleasures The town opens up to a large rounded bay surrounded by hills and rocks The seaside is a great place to come and enjoy local fish -based specialties In the evening at sunset the bay takes on a golden hue perhaps indicating a thriving tourist area Near the bay is a nature reserve called Silvestre Punta La Flore The site is difficult to access and is preserved and charming The discovery of these deserted beaches is well worth the detour It guarantees a very relaxing afternoon away from the growing commotion of beach resorts Wildlife holds astonishing surprises for those who know how to observe Coral is alive even on the beaches Chose rare in our time Anemone sea urchin small crustacean this coastline is still preserved These beaches are also famous for the sea turtles that come to lay their eggs We are here at the isthmus between the Pacific and Lake Nicaragua The country is reduced to a strip of land 200 meters wide This is the spiritual and historical heart of Nicaragua In the middle of the lake is Ometepe Island accessible by ferry 35 000 people live here based on banana culture coffee sugar cane and a bit of tourism The bus can be a pleasant way to travel through Nicaragua It's not advisable to be too rushed It's a good way to meet a very friendly population And frankly curious to know the reasons that brought you to visit their beloved country A simple smile and to Buenos Dias They will open the doors to hospitality Traveling north along Lake Nicaragua towards Nanden a church is worth a stop for a few minutes From the outside it's classic Spanish But once inside the framework of the nave symbolizes the ancient trees of Nicaragua Located just a bit further along the road toward Granada San Juan de Oriente is well worth the detour In this charming village of 3000 residents 80% of the adults are engaged in producing handmade crafts The city's nickname is San Juan de los Platos referring to the pottery produced there This occupation was traditionally assigned to women With the development of tourism and the opening of a workshop-school in 1978 the men also got to work According to the legend the village artisans are descended from a group of indigenous artisans who settled here several centuries ago Generally the whole family is involved in the production The decoration is in a naive style and reflects themes of rural life in Nicaragua Floral patterns and tropical wildlife are also found Most artisans have set up their workshop inside their house with one room arranged for selling goods Always further north the Masaya volcano imposes its presence in the landscape Of a rare type shield -shaped it gathers five craters It occurs periodically since the arrival of the Spanish in 1524 At that time its crater It contained a lake of lava The conquistadors suspected the presence of large reserves of gold melted in the region Le Masaya is actually one of the world's largest degassing volcanoes As a reward the conquistadors were spared for some bad smells On the shores of Lake Nicaragua there is a small ferry that is very convenient saving us 120 km of driving to get to San Carlo Perfectly ecological it is powered by human strength and everyone is required to participate in the collective effort On the other hand To Ruygalpa fruit merchants are waiting for you to regain your strength The archaeological museum is a must-see It houses the country' s largest collection of steles A collection of about a hundred Funerary anthropomorphic statues Carved from basalt between the 9th and 15th centuries Some measure up to 5 meters high The town of Ruygalpa has retained its Spanish colonial style It is a friendly place with a very welcoming population Little frequented by tourists you'll have the feeling of enjoying this place all to yourself For at least 5000 years the people of the region have cultivated corn and made flatbreads the famous tortillas They accompany most dishes and in particular the meat At the edge of the city are many farms Green meadows stretch as far as the eye can see They allow cattle raising here The herds count hundreds of heads monitored by horseback cowboys The region produces 80% of the beef consumed in Nicaragua Herding livestock is mainly done on horseback regardless of the weather conditions Cowboys thus travel this way Thousands of kilometers on their mount to encircle their herds Of course there is also the entire address of the cowboys who wield the lasso like no one else and who contribute to forging a legendary image roughout Central America Heading south toward Lake Nicaragua one leaves the world of cowboys for that of fishermen San Carlos is the port city which allows you to explore the Solantiman Islands which are home to one of the most fantastic natural reserves in the country The city has little interest So let's not waste time and head towards this preserved nature dream Tell me archipelago tell me tell me what happened Tell me if the natural beauty of these islands I have seen the splendor already give up the ghost This poem in the form of an inquiry was concerned about the potential damages of the revolution in this exceptional place No worries the Solantiman islands do not reveal today A string of exquisite green pearls delicately placed upon the gentle inner sea For a dozen years Nicaragua inspired by its neighboring Costa Rica's efforts in nature conservation has begun to safeguard its natural treasures While developing ecotourism You can admire among others the pink flamingo with its robe and characteristic beak A transition zone between dry tropical forest and rainforest this reserve is home to Nearly 400 species of birds These reserves should normally awaken the naturalist who sleeps within each of us There are many species of lizards and they are often seen basking in the sun for all to see Monkeys are also part of the group capuchins howler monkeys or spider monkeys Marine turtles attract attention especially when they come ashore in the hundreds The surprise is there There it was an alligator It is strongly recommended to bring a guide along to know who you are dealing with And to stay in this jungle where humans are barely tolerated you must be equipped Mosquitoes quickly remind the intruder He is not completely at home We sometimes have nice encounters like this endemic frog that does not exceed 2 cm Here it is called the red frog Blue legs After this impressive menagerie plant enthusiasts should not be disappointed either According to recent studies Nicaragua is home to more than 12 000 recognized plant species But some scientists say that research could eventually help identify 80 000 Nicaragua is Noah's Ark The Solentinam Archipelago is also home to an artist community The species is not here o longer in danger of disappearing In the early 1970s renowned priest and revolutionary poet Ernesto Cardenal The future Sandinista culture minister founded a community intended for agricultural workers and artisans Controversial the community is banned The artistic tradition continues and naive painting in the style of Cardenal has become increasingly popular This naive art expresses a certain number of ideals A world of innocence an idealized vision of nature The belief in a better world The artistic tradition is clearly not a novelty on the island These petroglyphs are more than 2000 years old We are changing course we are now flying towards the Atlantic destination Bluefields The Caribbean coast has been part of Nicaragua for nearly a century But it feels like we are not even in the same country so different is the atmosphere Everything changes Even the landscape flattens the roads disappear the cities become rarer and the vegetation changes People are marked by their Caribbean identity They have preserved their language and social structure Bluefields today presents itself as a life-sized stage animated by multiple cultures and languages with its colleges schools and economic activity All these elements together reveal the dynamism of this bilingual even trilingual city where sometimes English Spanish and Creole are all used in the same sentence Bluefields is not a city with character But it is pleasant to stroll through the streets to admire the wear of time on the buildings and observe the past life Music and dance occupy a very important place in local life In May on weekends the Mépole festival is in full swing leading to dance and drum competitions between the different neighborhoods of the city The preparations prove to be just as Interesting things are happening that are more interesting than the festival itself The Bluefields Caribbean Star group is in full rehearsal This dance the punta is actually a ritual for Mayaya the goddess of fertility and the first rains We leave the coast heading towards the islands offshore that are the pride of all Nicaragua The lives of travelers on Grand Island are limited to the essentials: eating dancing sleeping and walking on the beach We take second vacations here by realizing the dream of being able to stay on a small Caribbean island with white sand and palm trees and crystal-clear waters 9 000 people live on the largest island a number in sharp increase Ten years ago The island had only 2 000 inhabitants The tourism mirage had its effect on a very warm Spanish -speaking population Fishing and in particular lobster fishing remains an important activity There is not much to do here And that's all the better because the place turns out to be pleasant Big Corn Island takes on the appearance of a prosperous and developed metropolis in comparison to its smaller sister Little Corn located 11 km to the northwest The beaches and trails deep in the jungle are its main attractions No cars No noise comes to disturb the tranquility of this large rock covered by a beautiful tropical forest where one He walks and cycles You will share the island with only a thousand residents The more athletic will surely wa Fish swim or dive The laziest will happily slide along the sand And everyone will be able to enjoy delicious fish Deprived of beaches and sunshine the time has come to explore these islands to grasp the measure of this world It's impossible to get lost on Corn Island Two roads a few paths and you'll always end up back at your starting point Yet don't hesitate to take the side paths Walking on foot is the best way to experience wha These small islands have great value their inhabitants Dance is a true social cement A salsa tune a begin Smiles brighten the eyes Strange Nicaragua From Managua to the Corn Islands this country has taken us from one ocean to the other From lush valleys to the fury of volcanoes from this land of contrasts we have captured the smiles and the warmth of these inhabitants but also perceived their difficult history But here on these islands everything seems peaceful In this world at the edge of the world we simply connect to the essential And facing this vast sky the images of an exciting journey come back to us