Periyar Trails - Ecotourism Packages of Periyar Tiger Reserve | Nature Walk, Jungle Camp

This is Kumli, the bustling plantation town in Kerala, a spice paradise. The aroma of spices drapes around Kumli like the mist in the mountains. Situated in the cardamom hills in the southern western ghats, Kumli nestles in the Periyar valley that slopes away towards the plains of Tamil Nadu, just a few kilometers away. This small town is a tourism and trading hub of the region. One of the largest cardamom auction centers in the world functions close to Kumli. There are two major gateways to this unusual town. Through the misty mountains that scallop the Kottayam-Kumli route along the Kerala side of the western ghats, or through the fertile Kambam valley in the Tamil Nadu plains. Tourists, both domestic and international, converge in Kumli, magnetized by its tourist attractions. These include Kalaripayattu, the traditional martial art form of Kerala, Kathakali, the traditional dance form of the state, the aromatic spice gardens where one can see and smell all the spice plants, and the Elephant Camp, where tourists can experience captive elephants riding them and even having the fun of bathing the gentle giants. However, the star tourist attraction is the Periyar Tiger Reserve, or PTR, which is just 4 kilometers from Kumli. For most tourists in Kumli, the trip is incomplete without a leisurely boat ride along the famous Periyar Lake that meanders through the heart of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. The river cruise offers glimpses of some of the star attractions of the sanctuary, like the elephants, sambar, and the Indian bison, all of which can often be spotted along the lake fringes. For the adventurous wildlife enthusiast, however, who desires to experience a slice of the wilderness, PTR offers a range of diverse, community-based ecotourism packages. Designed and created thoughtfully, these promise you an unforgettable experience of the wilderness in her pristine purity and grandeur. These packages are based on a pro-conservation vision, managing the protected areas with the involvement of the local communities. Nature-based and ecologically sustainable, they enhance livelihoods of local communities. It also generates awareness about biodiversity and conservation, which are the key aspects of ecotourism initiatives. Periyar Tiger Reserve is one of the poignants in the whole country, where we have initiated the community-based ecotourism programs in its right spirit. We started these programs way back in the late 1990s or maybe the early 2000s. And of these community-based ecotourism programs, we have trekking programs, we have camping programs, we have day programs, we have nature education programs, etc. And by undertaking all those programs, virtually we are empowering the local forest-dependent communities, which in turn help in conservation of the park. And through this program, we have rehabilitated not only the local communities, but those who are affecting the park, like smugglers or poachers were also there, we could have rehabilitated them also. It has become a model national-wide and international-wide, and it has been recognized through many awards and recognizations, including UN award also for Periyar Tiger Reserve in the past. The Turtle Shop and the Pug Mark Store at the boat landing stock a range of products that reflect different facets of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. These include forest honey gathered by the tribals, designer t-shirts, jackets, caps, watches and other curios. If you are interested in nature, but don't know how and where to begin your nature quest, then the Pug Mark Trail is just for you. This initiative is a self-guided nature trail. It promises visitors to PTR an intimate and fascinating interpretation of nature that is informative and enjoyable. The Pug Mark Trail begins at the Rajiv Gandhi Center, a stone's throw from the PTR entry checkpoint. This 700-meter participant-friendly trail begins with a short descent along a slope just right to the Rajiv Gandhi Center. Even from the very beginning, your eye is attracted by the aesthetic granite display boards of birds in PTR. Many of these birds can be seen and photographed along this pond. Other information boards about various aspects of nature and ecosystem functions are also strategically placed along the trail. By the time you complete the trail, you feel you are an accomplished amateur naturalist. Interested in an unusual combination of trekking and navigation, then bamboo rafting is just for you. The day-long trekking-come-rafting program begins with a four-kilometer trek from the boat landing. We slice through a mosaic of pristine habitats that offer incredible glimpses of the unity, diversity and interdependence of all life forms in the forest. You can see tribal communities fishing in the Periyar Lake. Granted exclusive privilege of fishing only in certain designated areas of the lake, they use an innovative aluminum vessel trap method for fishing in shallow waters. The fish thus harvested is taken to a tribal cooperative which sells them to people in the surrounding areas. The plate contains a fish bait, pieces of termite mound mixed with some food material and is covered with a perforated cloth. The guides and trekkers who accompany trekkers on the bamboo rafting are former poachers turned conservationists. Their intimate knowledge of the terrain is fascinating, as is their hair-raising encounters with elephants, tigers and law-enforcing agencies. Rafting across the crystal-clear waters of the placid Periyar Lake is an unforgettable experience. Surrounded by the majestic mountains of the Western Ghats, you can hear the rise and fall of your breath in the pulsating stillness, the paddling of the oar as it furrows the water, the flutey call of the hill mynah, the hum of the chikadas, the alarm call of a red-wattled lapwing, such are the sounds of silence. Herds of elephants, samba and bison are regular sightings, but if you are lucky enough, you may have the rare privilege of watching a lone tusker enjoying his space and privacy. As he sprays himself with mud that looks like chocolate spray and unselfconsciously wallows in the water, we from a safe distance get a glimpse of some private pachyderm moments. Absolutely delighted. The elephant stayed there for half an hour, eating grass, showering himself, he then went for a little bath. We caught it all on camera, didn't seem bothered at all by our presence. Absolutely thrilled that we've seen that today. Imagine staying in a cosy bamboo hut situated among bamboo thickets, where you can listen to the sounds of bamboo calms breaking, the resonating hoot of the Nilgiri langur, the twittering of birds and the wind whistling through the trees. It's really back to basics, especially for city-weary folks. This is Bamboo Grove, an eco-friendly boarding and lodging facility in PTR. The 15 bamboo huts, equipped with all modern amenities, are situated in sylvan surroundings that also have a magnificent treehouse. A neat and spacious dining hall, the Utupura, offers simple and tasty food that tastes like it has been made at home. The bamboo huts are named after wildlife sanctuaries in Kerala. Bamboo Grove also offers space for seminars, programs and conferences in an eco-friendly environment. These are held in the centrally located Kalari or conference hall, equipped with audio-visual facilities. So, whether you want to unwind or wish to recharge your professional batteries, nature provides the perfect backdrop to refresh you. Do you want to get away, far from the madding crowd and nestle in the lap of Mother Nature? Then, the Jungle Inn is the place for you. Picturesque surroundings, green-carpeted grasslands, scalloped by mountains and intersected by thick forests of the Periyar Tiger Reserve, the Jungle Inn is a made-to-order forest paladise. The cosy bunker for two people gives you an intimate experience of the wilderness and allows you to experience the surreal beauty of a night in the forest. For serious wildlife trekkers, there are conservation-oriented day-trek programs which include the Nature Walk, Green Walk and Bodder Hiking. These walking trails are every hardcore trekker's dream come true. The Green Walk begins at 8 am near Bamboo Grove and winds its way towards the Anjuruli Guard Station. The trek traverses through undulating terrain that slices through thick forests interspersed with grasslands or swampy areas known as valles. The altitude ranges from 900 to 1,300 msl. Here, trekkers experience the glory and grandeur of the wilderness. The valles are the foraging and feeding meadows of the gaur, often mistakenly referred to as the Indian Bison. The gaur is a majestic animal with adult males often weighing nearly a ton. They are the largest bovine in Peninsular India. Sightings of several forest birds such as this endemic Malabar Grey Hornbill and Great Indian Hornbill are common. The trek also offers a splendid opportunity to experience the dynamism and interdependence of life forms in a forest. Here, cyclic life, death and regeneration is a law of life. For instance, you can gaze in wonder and amazement at the Moth Caterpillar wearing a woolly jacket, or the intricate Beehive perched precariously on a branch, or the colourful Mushrooms that spring up from anywhere, including Elephant Dung. The most demanding and challenging day trek program is the Border Hiking. The 23 km hard trek begins near the Bamboo Grove at 8 am. Negotiating steep inclines and precipitous drops, trekkers traverse through diverse forest habitats in their quest for the essence of the forest. Sightings of the Big Five of Periyar Tiger Reserve, the Elephant, Tiger, Sambar, Bison and the Great Indian Hornbill are common, although not routine. The trek offers fascinating glimpses of the wild. The gorgeous Palace Peacock Butterfly, whose wings look as if they have been sprayed with crushed and powdered emeralds, and a sun-loving Orange Cruiser Butterfly, the fastest butterfly as it swoops and flutters across the vegetation. Every step in the forest holds hidden surprises. Every breath is encased in wonder. This black scorpion was discovered by a group of observant trekkers. Not used to human presence, the poor scorpion was bewildered when the shutter-happy trekkers clicked away its pictures as souvenirs of their trek. As for the scorpion, it was tired of the wildlife paparazzi and the limelight and wanted to be left alone. The forest acquires different dimensions at night. The best way to experience this facet of the wilderness is through the Jungle Scout program. This three-hour trek through the forest is offered in three different time slots from 7 p.m. onwards. Accompanied by informed forest guides and armed forest guards, trekkers explore the forest guided by torchlights and the light of the stars, and perhaps the fortnightly full moon. Sightings of nocturnal birds like owls and mammals such as civets, barking deer and mouse deer are common. Lucky participants of this program have had glimpses of owls like this tawny brown yellow-eyed fish owl and the rarest of the rare owls in India, the peninsular bay owl hunting in the dark. If you want to feel the wilderness and soak in its pollution-free serenity, then the outdoor camping experience offered by the Jungle Camp is just for you. The campsite is situated in the picture-perfect surroundings on the banks of the languidly flowing Periyar River at Vallakadava in PTR. There are 15 tents in the campsite. The package also includes an orientation program, a safari to Gavi, wildlife film shows, bird watching, trekking and a complimentary boat trip on the Periyar lake. The star ecotourism program is, of course, the famous Tiger Trail. This was the first ecotourism initiative in 1998. Bold and daring, it drew on the legendary knowledge of the forest terrain of former poachers. Guided and motivated to be ambassadors of conservation, these former poachers lead the initiative. The 7-kilometer trail begins at the Tiger Trail office. Even as the trail begins, it is not uncommon to spot the giant Malabar squirrel frolicking on treetops and bisons that can be tantalizingly glimpsed in the thick forest. The trail slices through thick vegetation of turmeric, wild pepper and green chilli whose aroma has a wild freshness to it. On the way, the knowledgeable trackers point out the pug marks of tiger and its scratch marks on a tree. Although sighting the elusive tiger is a matter of sheer chance, there is enough evidence scattered throughout the forest of its charismatic presence. Along the trail, the towering trees with gigantic buttresses take our breath away. Their recesses serve as cozy homes for several life forms. In fact, in one of them, the horseshoe bat, named after its horseshoe protuberance on its nose, is lodged securely. We trackers, however, had a rare glimpse of the shy creature by shining the light of the mobile phone on the unsuspecting bat. The trail winds its way to the picturesque Tiger Trail campsite situated on an elevation on the banks of the Periyar Lake. Feasting on hot, fresh lunch, which consists of the staple steamed tapioca and the refreshing tea without milk, our legs look forward to the welcome break. The campsite has a trench on all sides to ward off elephants which stray into the camp. In the evening, we set out on another forest trail. This time we are stunned to discover the remains of an adult elephant. Our tracker tells us the camera trap evidence clearly shows it was killed by a tiger. The large bones of the elephants strewn across the grassland send a trill down our spines as we imagine the mammoth encounter between two Goliaths of the forest. The faint stench of the kill still lingered. We return to the camp in the evening. We are delighted to witness a spectacular sunset after which we thankfully snuggle into the cozy comfort of our tents. Anoop Kulkarni, one of the trackers, provides the perfect lullaby with the melodious music of his flute. Our morning alarm is a naughty schoolboy whistle of the Malabar whistling thrush. Soon afterwards, we have a delightful surprise in store. A cow elephant and her calf decided to visit the camp. They ascend the lake shore and trudge along the borders of the camp. Making a U-turn, they stood face to face with the people in the camp, all along scenting us with their trunks. Finally, they make their way downhill as we watch their retreating silhouettes disappear into the distance. Although chance favours a prepared mind, a tiger sighting is most unexpected. A group of trackers sighted a tiger sleeping on sandbank in the midst of a river. He was loathing by the riverside, raising his paws like a kitten and flicking his tail. Suddenly he became alert to human presence and bounded into the safety and anonymity of the thick foliage. Tribal communities are an integral part of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. They once lived in the core area of the forest, but since the formation of the sanctuary have been relocated to villages in the fringe areas. Traditionally, they have existed harmoniously with nature, and through their songs, dances and rituals celebrate this seamless co-existence. The Tribal Heritage is an eco-tourism initiative that showcases traditional tribal art forms and is performed by tribal community members from the adjoining villages of Mannakudi and Palayakudi. The dancers are dressed in traditional tribal costumes, headgear and ornaments. Their faces are painted colourfully using natural pigments from plants. The performance begins with Kutupattu, a religious art form of the Mannan community. This dance is a prayer to the mountain gods, inviting them to witness the performance along with 800 other celestials, the most important of them being the goddess Meenakshi. This is a joyous dance of thanksgiving, where a male plays a female character. The other dancers dance in a circle around her, and the Mannans believe that the energy generated by this dynamic dance has a power to infuse even spectators with joy and inner lightness. The highlight of the evening is a hunting dance, a high-octane performance that dancers twirl, swirl and swoop on stage and realistically recreate the process of hunting. It is that range of biodiversity that we must care for, the whole thing, rather than just one or two stars, said David Attenborough, a famous conservationist and wildlife film presenter. All life forms are integral in weaving the intricate tapestry of life. Each needs the other, for interdependence is the mantra of life. You hear the soft whispers of this life-affirming mantra in the sights, sounds and smells of the forest.