Virtual Tour: Cawdor Castle, Scotland

Hello and welcome back to another episode of European Waterways Virtual Tours. This week you find me in Scotland's dramatic highlands at perhaps one of the most romantic castles, Cawdor. Best known for its literary connection to William Shakespeare's tragedy Macbeth, this castle was set within beautiful gardens and after more than 700 years in the same family it remains the ancestral home of the famed Cawdor. Anyway I'm getting a bit wet here so while I dry off I'll let you discover this castle's remarkable past. Cawdor's castle immediately conjures up images of Shakespeare's 16th century tragedy Macbeth. There was a king named Macbeth who was king of Alba but in the 11th century and ruled over only a very small Moreover king Macbeth had very little to do with Cawdor though during his reign it was a fayndom a fayne was the equivalent to an English baron long before the bard dramatised and completely rewrote the history of Scotland. A fort did stand in the fayndom but stood approximately one mile from the current structure's site and it is quite possible that Shakespeare had heard of this Nonetheless the play is fictional and though it is based on some historical accuracy in reality Cawdor has nothing to do with king Macbeth. In the 12th century king Malcolm III granted lands at Cawdor to a French nobleman Hugh de Cadella in 1178 as gratitude for his help in restoring Malcolm's family to the throne after Macbeth had led an attack on his father Cadella supported the king by helping to kill Macbeth's successor King Luluc and Malcolm sought to have this loyal presence around him as he tried to control the untamed Highland clans Malcolm's descendants ruled over Scotland until the late 13th century and the Cadella's family name was anglicised to Calder which subsequently evolved into the name Cawdor. Cawdor castle is is known as a tower house castle. The earliest of castles whose design had arrived with the Norman conquest of Britain in 1066 were known as motte and bailey castles. A large mound was built upon which a keep or motte was built and below a bailey consisting of stables, barracks and workshops were defended by a simple wooden fence. As castles evolved masonry succeeded wooden structures and the castle keep rose up to four storeys. Whereas in England it was common practice to surround the enclosure with a curtain wall and a moat in Scotland the keep became the sole structure of the fortification and was heavily fortified with barbicans portcullises and arrow slits. From the 15th century onwards as manor houses were becoming more popular castles too had to provide an adequate level of comfort for the nobility residing within them and so tower houses were built merging the line between a country house and a castle. Cawdor as we see it today dates to the 14th century but it was strengthened several times over by the Scottish crown since. In 1454 James II granted the sick fane of Cawdor, William Cawdor, permission to crenellate a tower i.e fortifying it with battlements on condition that he be allowed to come and go as he pleased. According to legend the fane decided to build his new tower based upon a dream in which When the fane awoke from the dream he selected the tree as the place where he should build his new tower. As we will see later this tree still exists and if anything just adds to the tale. The fane of Cawdor might have been better advised to choose the site for his castle without the aid of donkeys however for the low-lying site offered few military advantages. To compensate the castle was surrounded by a wide moat and built with walls so thick that the castle's dungeon is built within the wall itself. After the battle of Dal Tulloch in 1499 in which the clans of Cawdor and Campbell fought for ownership of the fandom the heiress of Cawdor a young girl named Muriel was kidnapped by the Campbells to be married into the clan. As she was being carried away legend says that her mother bit off the joint from the child's little finger so that she could Muriel was later married to Sir John Campbell which gave rise to a local tradition that the Campbells would always hold Cawdor if a red-haired woman lives on the shore of Loch Orr. Together Muriel and John Campbell set about extending the castle in the style of their period. After Muriel's death in 1573 the fandom and Cawdor castle was left to her grandson also named John Campbell and further improvements on the castle were made during this time. By 1635 a garden had been added and after the restoration of the monarchy in Scotland in 1660 Sir Hugh Campbell added or improved the north and west ranges employing two known masons of the time James and Robert Nicholson. Life for the faint of Cawdor was soon to be disrupted however for during the late 17th and into the 18th centuries the Campbell clan were in support of the British Hanoverian government. In 1688 the glorious bloodless revolution saw the deposition of the Catholic King James II and VII of England, Scotland and Ireland by his daughter Mary and her husband William of Orange forcing the Stuarts into exile in France. A year later the Jacobite Rising whose name derived from the Latin for James, Jacobus of 1689 sought to restore the exiled house of Stuart to the throne. In March of that year James returned and landed in Ireland in an attempt to regain his throne and a small force of Highlanders were also recruited for a supporting campaign in Scotland. The continuing needs of police for Highland had used resources William needed for the nine years war and a peaceful Scotland was important since the links between the Scottish and Irish branches of the McDonald's meant unrest in one country often spilled over into the other. In 1691 the government offered an indemnity to all chiefs who should take an oath of allegiance before the start of the following year. Letters of fire and sword authorizing savage attacks upon rebels were drawn up in anticipation of widespread refusals but the chiefs took the oath. Alexander Macdonald of Glencoe postponed his submission until the last day of 1691 and was then unable to take his oath until January the 6th as there was no magistrate to receive it. King William, Secretary of State for Scotland thereupon issued an order under the king's signature for military punishment of the McDonald's. More than 100 of Campbell's men who had been amicably belittled by the McDonald's for more than a week at Glencoe suddenly attacked them. While many of the clan escaped the chief, 33 men, two women and two children were killed. John Campbell a neighbour and sworn enemy of the McDonald's was widely suspected of having planned the attack. Since neither Queen Mary nor her sister Anne had any surviving children, the 1701 Act of Settlement ensured a Protestant successor by rejecting Catholic heirs from the English and Irish thrones and later that of Great Britain under the 1707 Act of the Union. When Queen Anne became the last Stuart monarch in 1702 her heir was the distantly related but Protestant Sophia of Hanover. Sophia unfortunately died two months before Anne in August 1714 and so her son became George I and the pro-Hanoverian party controlled government for the next 30 years. As the Campbell's were enemies of the Jacobite supporting McDonald's, especially after the events at Glencoe, they sided against them in in which King James VII of Scotland attempted to regain the throne once more. In 1745 his son Charles Edward Stuart also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie once again tried to take the throne for the Stuarts for his father. Charles launched the rebellion at Glenfinnan in the Highlands and successfully captured Edinburgh in September before heading to England after reassuring the Scots of substantial support of English Jacobites in a simultaneous French landing in southern England. The British government called in for the support of more than 12,000 troops to deal with the rising after the Jacobite invasion of England had reached as far as Derby. In fear of having the retreat cut off and with a lack of support from English Jacobites the Scots turned back. The Scottish and English sides eventually met on Culloden Moor in 1746 and the two sides had no other option than to fight in battle. Though the battle lasted only an hour the Jacobites suffered heavy casualties and had to admit defeat to the English and Culloden is known as being the last pitched battle fought on British soil. Though Jacobites remained in Scotland thereafter the leadership took the decision to disperse effectively ending the rising. After the battle of Culloden the Campbell's thought it prudent to live on their Welsh estates in Pembrokeshire which proved to be a blessing for Cawdor for it meant that it was spared the Victorian improvements and today remains a fascinating combination of an authentic medieval castle and a comfortable Jacobean house. We'll begin our tour here outside the castle since the rain seems to have taken a break for the time being. Scotland's weather can be quite temperamental and so we have to make the most of the sunshine while we have it. Behind me we have the drawbridge and the 15th century four-story tower house one of the oldest parts of the castle. It would have originally been accessed by an external wooden stairway to the first floor whose doorway was later converted into a window. The coat of arms over the main entrance contains some clues as to Cawdor's family history and combines emblems of the fanes of Cawdor who've held on to the castle over the centuries. Beyond you may just be able to make out a small lancet window which conceals a concealed room where legend has it the 11th Lord Lovett is said to have hid for three days while outlawed for high treason in 1699. So without further ado let's make our way into the castle and start exploring. So after passing over the drawbridge and through the north courtyard we've entered the castle and find ourselves here in what used to be the Great Hall. Now as with any castle or stately home of a certain age Cawdor was supposed to be haunted. Three ghosts are known to walk its ancient corridors. A mysterious lady in blue, the ghost of Muriel's husband Sir John Campbell and a tragic young woman who committed suicide after being denied a forbidden love. And in case you're wondering no this has never been a sighting of Macbeth's ghost or indeed that of the three witches. Originally the Great Hall of the castle the room we are in now the drawing room dates back to the 17th century after having been frequently remodeled. The last alteration was the addition of a splendid fireplace in 1684 embellished with the Cawdor family crest. At the opposite end of the room behind you is a minstrels gallery which is a heart back to the rooms days as the Great Hall. After climbing a narrow staircase we are in the tapestry bedroom. Directly above the Great Hall it formed part of the 17th century additions of the castle when it was remodeled from being a fortification into a family home. Behind me you can see the four poster marriage bed made for Sir Hugh Campbell the 15th Earl Campbell and Lady Henrietta Stewart who were married at the nearby Darnoway Castle in 1662 and features a richly decorated Venetian headboard. The tapestries that adorn the walls after whom the room is named are Flemish in origin and are of a style known as Arras hangings and they depict predominantly biblical scenes including Moses leading his people across the Red Sea. Woven from wool and silk they were made specifically for the room in 1682 and are hung directly over the unpainted wall for warmth. Next door the yellow room is peculiar since the fireplace is off centre the walls are not straight and the windows are irregular however despite all of its faults it makes for a very comfortable sitting room. Dispersed throughout the room are objects of interest and antiquity and although we don't have time to go through all of them I will point out just a few which are of particular interest. In the centre of the cabinet to my left is a bronze age funeral beaker discovered during ploughing in the field in front of the castle in 1976. The long case clock dates from about 1680 and just like in any good sitting room the 18th century cupboard conceals a television set. Across yet another narrow corridor and we are in what is known colloquially as the Woodcock room. In part of a 17th century addition to the castle this elegant room which probably dates to about the 1670s was intended for use as a sitting room. The beautiful Sheraton four poster bed which you can see behind me and the soft furnishings found throughout the room date from 1789. The room takes its family nickname from the painting of the game bird that hangs over the central doorway although to generations of butlers the room was known as number seven, the number that came up on the bell board downstairs. The old bell pulls were operated mechanically and a tug on the bell cord pulled a zigzag of wires until they made their way down to the servants quarters to summon for example hot water through a bath or even breakfast and bed. Even more ornate is the pink bedroom with not one but two four poster beds this time by Chippendale. On the wall are tapestries depicting the story of Don Quixote woven about 1680 and part of a set which continued downstairs in the family dining room. The blue tartan carpet was designed by the Cordor family in 1991. We are now on the first floor of the old tower originally the only entrance to the keep was at an arched doorway at the middle window and access was via wooden steps that could be withdrawn in times of battle meaning the only way a forced entry could be achieved was by scaling the battlements or by breaching the walls themselves which would have been difficult since they are very very thick. Once inside an uninvited guest could be kept in a hidden dungeon below whose trap door was located to the left of the fireplace. Later the keep was altered and larger windows were installed and the tower room as it is known today was furnished. To the right of the fireplace is a medieval privy and in the winter the room is very warm since the fireplace draws 63 feet from the hearth to the top of the chimney. Downstairs this vault was once the ground floor guard room of the tower and protected the approach to the drawbridge and the secret dungeon is concealed in the thickness of the end wall. Cordor castle is the only castle in Britain built over a tree and after radiocarbon dating scientists have discovered that the tree in question is a holly tree which was probably planted around 1372. The date of the tree tends to support expert opinion that this part of the castle was built in the last quarter of the 14th century. Another highlight is this the family dining room with an ornate fireplace which was installed in 1671 and the mantelpiece which commemorates the marriage of Sir John Campbell and Muriel Calder in 1510. The geometric design and the inscription written in dog latin have never been explained or translated and remain some of the many mysteries still to be deciphered in the castle. Cordor was peculiar since it never had a permanent kitchen in the castle itself except for makeshift cooking arrangements for the garrison in the very top of the tower. The earliest kitchen was probably situated on the ground floor behind the great hall in what is now the drawing room. In the 17th century a large kitchen was installed in the basement below and was used for more than 300 years right up until 1938. The modern kitchen we are in now was converted in 1971 from what used to be the schoolroom and features local larchwood panelling. The strange steel object on the worktop is not a thumbscrew but a french dutch press used to extract the gravy from meat. Now it seems to be clearing up a little bit outside so what do you say we go out and explore the grounds a bit? Once outside we find ourselves in the grounds. Cordor is set in wonderful gardens divided into distinct and very different parts. What is fascinating is that each of the three distinct gardens has its very own unique history and character. In addition there is a large area of woodland directly behind the castle known as the big wood. This woodland is all the remains of an ancient Caledonian pinewood forest and boasts marvellous old trees with nature trails winding their way through them. Let's go and explore a little bit further. To the south of the castle is the flower garden which was laid out around 1710 by Sir Archibald Campbell the brother of the then thane of Cordor. Though his brother held the title Sir Archibald actually managed all of the Campbell estates across Scotland and after having studied in France was influenced by the gardens he saw to create the formal layout of the gardens here at Cordor. Though much has changed since Sir Archibald's time the clipped yew hedges have survived and have had several of the fruit trees he planted. The 18th century design was enclosed by lavender borders in 1850 designed by Lady Cordor. She also added the long herbaceous borders which ensure colour well into the autumn. The walled garden is the oldest garden at Cordor and may date to the 16th century or perhaps even earlier. There may have been an orchard here originally but by the late 17th century it had been planted with a profusion of exotic plants. The section nearest the castle has been developed as a hedged maze inspired by the Minotaur labyrinth at Knossos in Crete. At the centre of the maze is a modern sculpture depicting the Minotaur. The burnham arches surround the maze on three sides creating a cascade of colour throughout the heights of summer. Other sections of the garden include the knot garden planted with aromatic herbs and a hidden paradise garden protected by high yew hedges. Between the castle and Cordor burn is the semi-hidden wild garden reached through a doorway in the flower garden wall. This delightful informal area provides a stark contrast with the formality of the walled garden and the flower garden. Here you will find profuse plantings of primulas, rhododendrons and azaleas along with spring daffodils, bamboo clusters and willow trees. Among these familiar species a rare plant native to Tibet as well. The wild garden leads into the big wood, 750 hectares of mature trees dissected by meandering trails. And there we have it. I hope you've enjoyed this tour of Cordor castle. It's starting to rain again now so join me next week as we finish this series of virtual tours by heading back to France to the capital of southern Burgundy in the beautiful city of Bourgne, famous for its exquisite medieval hospital. I look forward to seeing you there.