Petzl has SOME holes in their Sm'D and Spirt carabiners so can you drill holes in yours to save weight? Elliott Bernhagen https://www.instagram.com/anikulapu/ sent me a few carabiners with a LOT of holes in them to see if they were super good enough.
I really shouldn't make a video about this and give anybody ideas they should be drilling holes
in their carabiners, but Elliot Bernhagen does do that, and he asked me how strong it was,
and I'm the type of guy to test that. So, well, here you go. Please don't do this,
but we're going to find out how many holes are too many holes. Now, why would you even do this?
Petzl has a carabiner called the SMD, and it has a hole, one hole in it, in order to
put a keeper sling in there, as you can see on Alpine Savvy's blog, where you can put the
microtraction or the tib lock attached to the carabiner, so you don't risk dropping it while
you're trying to install that device on a rope. But if you extrapolate that to putting more holes
in your carabiner, in order to save weight, does it work? So this is the Edelrid 19G. It's
lightest carabiner in the world, and that is 19 grams, and it actually weighs in at 19.5 exactly.
This one has 15 holes, and this one has 19, and let's see how much weight we're actually saving.
10 gram thing is super accurate enough. 18.87. 18.4. So this was 0.63 grams lighter,
and this was 1.1 grams lighter. So each one of these holes saves 0.05 grams, and I'm assuming
that these larger holes would save approximately 0.1 grams. For all you ultralight fanatics out
there, this would be a backpack strap if you cut it off, and this saves approximately 3.1 grams.
That is the equivalent of 30 holes drilled out in several of your carabiners. Is it worth
possibly compromising your carabiner to save 0.1 grams at the most per hole? And just for a fun
fact, this thing weighs 240 grams or a half a pound. So there are other ways that you could
save weight by maybe not taking certain things or working on others. So you can see from some
other carabiner tests we've done that it'll break up here at the curve, all these have that way,
or it'll break down here, and it's where this bend is. That's where the stress is. Sometimes
it breaks the nose off before opening up, and then this can't close this side, and it stresses
the aluminum out and breaks where it's bending. So I think because they did drill holes at those
break points, that I think it's actually going to break weaker. I don't know how much weaker,
but that is my guess. If you want to please the algorithmic gods, hit the pause button,
go guess below percentage-wise or kilonewtons and where you think it'll break, and then reply to
yourself and tell us how far off you were. Anything over 20 kilonewtons, and I'd be
super stoked enough. Anything less than that, and I think you should probably find different ways to
save weight. Well, let's find out if they're actually super strong enough. This has 15 holes
in it. So I can't find it, but I did get 12.79, which is half of what we should have got on that.
You can see where it breaks like normal up here, but it also broke right here, and I don't have
too many carabiners doing that. So that I don't think is super good enough.
So ironically, the one with more holes broke slightly higher. I wasn't able to find all of
this one, but it did help me find this one when I looked around after watching this thing fly apart.
But it broke here at the bottom and here at the top. Still not super good enough yet. So the next
one is an old style of Camp Nano. You can see that these holes are a little bit bigger than those,
and then the rest are about the same, and we've got 16 holes on this one.
So I actually found all the pieces this time, and it's interesting that it's breaking here
in the middle again, and we're getting less than half of the MBS strain. This is definitely not
strong enough to be climbing on. So here are 17 holes in a new style of the Nano 22.
Okay, we got less than half on this one, and again, it's breaking in the middle. This is a
Camp Photon. This is one of my favorite beaners because it's big and it fits in my hands well,
and it has just a great gait. 29 holes in this thing. What do you think it's going to break at?
Oh my god! Okay, my favorite part about breaking stuff is I always get some weird results.
That is... that... I did not expect that. Uh, that's amazing. Rawr. This is... this is crazy
cool. So they just sent me a picture of one of these carabiners with a hole. Get it? Bunch of
holes in it. How strong do you think that is? I don't have it with me. I don't think I would take
the time to drill that many holes in it, and now that I've seen alligators will take over your
carabiners, I probably wouldn't do that myself. So it looks like Petzl's gonna get a little bit
more holey. The new Spirit's coming out in 2023. This is our Straight Gait Spirit. We've shrunk it
down a little bit laterally, shrunk it down a little bit vertically, and then we've also added
these holes to aesthetically differentiate ourselves, as well as to help shave a little
bit of weight. So they drilled holes in this thing to aesthetically differentiate themselves.
Uh, basically they couldn't do anything to make themselves...
Okay. I mean, I'm... I'm impressed by the marketing. It has me talking about their
carabiner right now. Spirit is actually going to be dropping from 39 grams to 37 grams. Obviously,
if you have the holes drilled there, I doubt it's a problem or Petzl 1 wouldn't put it out.
And 2, well, they didn't put it all the way down the spine because it looks like you need
a little metal there to make the carabiner work. So if it dropped 2 grams later, and those holes
save potentially 0.1 grams each, that means 1.7 grams of that was literally changing the carabiner.
So I personally will not be drilling any holes in my carabiners. I want to know if
you guys plan on doing this at all. I, 10 out of 10, don't recommend doing it because,
well, these are rated for 20 plus kilonewtons for a reason. And I don't know at what point
I would change that. Thank you, Elliot, for sending me these. I think this was a very
interesting test. If you are going to buy gear, please buy it at extremegear.org. 10%
supports this channel and patrons make this thing possible. Now, if you want to see 12 carabiners
connected all to each other to see which one was the last one standing out of these,
you go check out that video right now.